Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[VansonRider]

I bought it. From the description it has some signs on collar but it is OK is so hard to find one here in Europe and a size over 40
I hope that it is in Kersry.
This has the same DSA... of this one, almost the same label

And @Peacoat said that it was an easy answer in the next post a 1975 kersey coat. I will upload some pics when it will arrive, thank you

It’s very likely Kersey. As I understand it, the Navy began accepting some contracts for Melton coats in ‘74, but they weren’t totally changed over until 1980. So you have very good odds of getting a Kersey.

But even on the slight chance that this is Melton, it will still be the heavier weight melton. The Navy, in 1980, switched to the 28oz melton with an insulated liner, and we know the liner on this coat is the older non insulated type, so at the “worst case” scenario you have a really heavy weight melton wool pea coat.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Hello. I read the guide, I have a question about this 1975 "Modern Garments" peacoat found around 30$. Do you know if it is kersey or melton wool. If it is melton, is it worth more than a schott 740n about the same price?


View attachment 651083 View attachment 651084 View attachment 651085

I can vouch for the size - 46 is not a common size. I take a 46 or a 46L. They were few and far between 10 years ago and I'm sure there are fewer today. I'm lucky I was able to get my coats in size 46 or 46L(ong).

 

[giogio97]

It definitely appears with a bluish tint in person, less in the pics, it has also canvas(?) pocket's lining

 

[VansonRider]

Here’s the sleeve and pocket from my 1970 coat, it’s the closest I have in age to yours.

 

[JAGG]

So I just joined, specifically because of the great info on pea coats here. As expected I have a couple questions that I don’t THINK were answered earlier in the thread, though I plead guilty to not having read the whole thing.

Using Peacoats five star date and sizing guide, I decided to try a 40xl instead of the 42xl I normally wear in suits/jackets. The only 42xl I was seeing for sale were recent ones, and I missed the 44xl that was posted in this thread before I started reading (just as well). I’m 6’5”, 190 lbs, my chest is closer to 40 inch than 42 but usually need a 42 because of my shoulders. Anyway, the listing I found had lots of wrong info (80’s/90’s, wrong sleeve length, looked worn and very dirty, colors indecipherable in pic), but showed the label and had pics with a tape measure, so I took a chance. No risk considering the cheap price, figured I could at least figure out whether sizing worked before passing it on to a thrift store

I expected pewter buttons and poor condition, but surprised it had gold buttons and excellent condition. No wear. Similar label to giogio97, only one year different and also without stating type of wool. And very happy with fit, pics with sweaters on.

So first question, could buttons be original? The top two of six were moved in a bad attempt to try to increase size, those are easily moved back. The lower four of six buttons have been there long enough to be reinforced with more stitches. One of the under collar buttons is missing but the one still there also looks like it is an original attachment. Except for gold color these look just like the pewter buttons used in that time frame. But no writing on the back, should there be? So is this an officers coat, maybe a promotion or anything else to explain why it would have gold buttons?

I looked quickly for matching gold buttons on eBay but only saw the pewter version. Any hope of finding one matching gold button?

 

[Peacoat]

So I just joined, specifically because of the great info on pea coats here. As expected I have a couple questions that I don’t THINK were answered earlier in the thread, though I plead guilty to not having read the whole thing.

Using Peacoats five star date and sizing guide, I decided to try a 40xl instead of the 42xl I normally wear in suits/jackets. The only 42xl I was seeing for sale were recent ones, and I missed the 44xl that was posted in this thread before I started reading (just as well). I’m 6’5”, 190 lbs, my chest is closer to 40 inch than 42 but usually need a 42 because of my shoulders. Anyway, the listing I found had lots of wrong info (80’s/90’s, wrong sleeve length, looked worn and very dirty, colors indecipherable in pic), but showed the label and had pics with a tape measure, so I took a chance. No risk considering the cheap price, figured I could at least figure out whether sizing worked before passing it on to a thrift store

I expected pewter buttons and poor condition, but surprised it had gold buttons and excellent condition. No wear. Similar label to giogio97, only one year different and also without stating type of wool. And very happy with fit, pics with sweaters on.

So first question, could buttons be original? The top two of six were moved in a bad attempt to try to increase size, those are easily moved back. The lower four of six buttons have been there long enough to be reinforced with more stitches. One of the under collar buttons is missing but the one still there also looks like it is an original attachment. Except for gold color these look just like the pewter buttons used in that time frame. But no writing on the back, should there be? So is this an officers coat, maybe a promotion or anything else to explain why it would have gold buttons?

I looked quickly for matching gold buttons on eBay but only saw the pewter version. Any hope of finding one matching gold button?

Enlisted don't get promoted to the officer ranks. They have to go through a commissioning process, either, OCS, Academy, ROTC, or rarely outside of combat, a direct commission. But you are right, their peacoats have gold buttons, if they choose to wear a peacoat (none do). They also wear their rank on shoulder boards. Officers are also authorized to wear the bridge coat, which all of them do.

As there are no loops for shoulder boards, this was probably a chief's coat. Chief Petty Officers (E-7 through E-9) wear gold buttons on their peacoats, and they wear no rank, if they elect to wear a peacoat. Although almost all choose to wear a bridge coat, the same as officers, once they are promoted to chief petty officer.

The only source I know of for gold buttons is eBay, but they are relatively scarce.

Alternatively, if you can't find another gold button, you could remove the gold buttons and replace them with the standard black buttons; they are easy to find.

 

[JAGG]

As there are no loops for shoulder boards, this was probably a chief's coat.

The only source I know of for gold buttons is eBay, but they are relatively scarce.

Alternatively, if you can't find another gold button, you could remove the gold buttons and replace them with the standard black buttons; they are easy to find.

Great, thanks so much for answering. So unusual but historically accurate is what I was hoping to hear. Before it arrived I thought I would replace the metal buttons with plastic ones, but seeing it in person I actually quite like the gold against the midnight blue/black and will keep them.

When I did a better search on eBay I did find some more listings for buttons, but mostly for smaller sizes (apparently these gold buttons come in 3 sizes) and for some reason the sellers almost never post the size - these are one inch - aka 40 ligne, now that’s an obscure term I never heard before. There’s no rush on the hidden button so I’ll just wait until one turns up locally.

So my next question is for the correct button placement. I read through the spec sheet that was posted earlier in this thread, but unfortunately that refers to the patterns for button placement, and patterns not included.

My thought is that the top two of six buttons on this coat were moved to alter size a little, because they are a different distance from the edge, and they have been sewn through the coat into the inside unlike other buttons. But since this is the only jacket I have to compare, maybe my assumption about original button placement is incorrect?

The bottom 4 of six buttons are 6 inches in from the coat edge on both sides. But the top 2 of 6 buttons are 5-1/2 inches from the edge. Should all these buttons be the same distance from edge, or is there intentional taper on the top buttons?

 

[Peacoat]

Great, thanks so much for answering. So unusual but historically accurate is what I was hoping to hear. Before it arrived I thought I would replace the metal buttons with plastic ones, but seeing it in person I actually quite like the gold against the midnight blue/black and will keep them.

When I did a better search on eBay I did find some more listings for buttons, but mostly for smaller sizes (apparently these gold buttons come in 3 sizes) and for some reason the sellers almost never post the size - these are one inch - aka 40 ligne, now that’s an obscure term I never heard before. There’s no rush on the hidden button so I’ll just wait until one turns up locally.

So my next question is for the correct button placement. I read through the spec sheet that was posted earlier in this thread, but unfortunately that refers to the patterns for button placement, and patterns not included.

My thought is that the top two of six buttons on this coat were moved to alter size a little, because they are a different distance from the edge, and they have been sewn through the coat into the inside unlike other buttons. But since this is the only jacket I have to compare, maybe my assumption about original button placement is incorrect?
The bottom 4 of six buttons are 6 inches in from the coat edge on both sides. But the top 2 of 6 buttons are 5-1/2 inches from the edge. Should all these buttons be the same distance from edge, or is there intentional taper on the top buttons?

If the button that is missing isn't visible, then no rush to get a replacement. But it would be wise to get a few extra in case other of your buttons go missing. My theory of replacement parts is that it may be available today when I don't need it, but if I wait until I need it, it won't be available. Get it now. And yes, those are 1" (40 Ligne) buttons.

All the buttons should be the same distance from the edge. My size 42 peacoat has the buttons 6.25" from the edge measured from the center of the button.

All of your questions show you are on the right track.

 

[JAGG]

If the button that is missing isn't visible, then no rush to get a replacement. But it would be wise to get a few extra in case other of your buttons go missing. My theory of replacement parts is that it may be available today when I don't need it, but if I wait until I need it, it won't be available. Get it now. And yes, those are 1" (40 Ligne) buttons.

All the buttons should be the same distance from the edge. My size 42 peacoat has the buttons 6.25" from the edge measured from the center of the button.

All of your questions show you are on the right track.

Thanks again, that was very helpful. I asked one of the eBay sellers to measure the buttons they have for sale, hopefully they will answer.

Now one last question about Peacoat button placement. I would have guessed that the inside button would have been placed exactly underneath the middle button on that side. But the one on my jacket is not, about a half inch below and out from the external one. My jacket seems to button up and close correctly, but since I need to move a couple buttons anyway, I may as well get that one correct if it needs it.

Was this another attempt by PO to adjust the size, and if so have you found a formula for correct placement of the interior button relative to the external one?

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks again, that was very helpful. I asked one of the eBay sellers to measure the buttons they have for sale, hopefully they will answer.

Now one last question about Peacoat button placement. I would have guessed that the inside button would have been placed exactly underneath the middle button on that side. But the one on my jacket is not, about a half inch below and out from the external one. My jacket seems to button up and close correctly, but since I need to move a couple buttons anyway, I may as well get that one correct if it needs it.

Was this another attempt by PO to adjust the size, and if so have you found a formula for correct placement of the interior button relative to the external one?

The actual purpose of the interior button is a mystery not known to me. I have heard a theory or two, but none sounds persuasive.

The interior button can't be " . . . placed exactly underneath the middle button on that side." During sewing the buttons would be on top of each other and would interfere with the attachment. Plus, the exterior buttons are sewn on before the liner is installed, and the interior button is attached post lining installation.

When I get a chance, I will take a look at one of my peacoats that has the interior button (they all don't have them) and see where it it placed.