Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Peacoat]

Thinking about getting a vintage Navy pea coat. I am 5’6’’, 165-170 lbs, with a 40 inch chest. I am on the leaner side of things. A 40 measured around 42 in the chest on most jackets. Is that typical? Would a 40R be too long? I wear 40s in sport coats.

If your measured chest circumference is 40" then, a size 40 (p2p of 22.25") peacoat would give you room for a sweater. For a trimmer fit with no room for a sweater, a size 38 peacoat is what you want.

For accuracy, we always use the measured chest circumference. We never state it in jacket or peacoat size.

For more info on getting a good fit in a peacoat, see the below link, which will take you to the Guides Section:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ze-in-a-us-navy-pea-coat.110255/#post-2986330

 

[Lorinz]

I have an opportunity to buy a vintage navy peacoat, and was curious about two things in particular. One is, I wonder if anyone can tell if it's truly vintage and determine its authenticity from looking at it? The seller doesn't have much information on it, like it's background or what time period it was made in. The other thing is I see what looks like a few loose buttons, does it look that way to you or am I imagining it? Is that something that's easy to get fixed?

I included the photos of it, any input and advice concerning the authenticity of it, as well as the thing with the buttons being loose would be much appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Harris HTM]

Loose buttons are really easy to fix, you can even do it by yourself.
I'm no peacoat expert but it seems that this is a 1974 issued peacoat. I had no idea peacoats were issued in the 70's.

 

[vintagewool]

I have an opportunity to buy a vintage navy peacoat,...

DSA is military issue.

The DSA number indicates that it is a 1974 coat.

The coat is of historical interest for 3 reasons:
1. 1974 might be the first year for the pewter buttons.
2. 1974 is the earliest year so far known to me for a melton-wool coat.
3. The label indicates that the melton-wool coat is blue, not black.

The buttons should not droop. It looks like at least one button is drooping considerably. For decorative buttons, it doesn't take much sewing to make them snug. There are forum posts about completely re-sewing a peacoat button.

 

[Peacoat]

This melton coat will be black and not blue.

The pewter button began to appear on peacoats issued to recruits in 1974, with Navy wide changeover required by July 1, 1976 .

 

[Worf]

A Pea Coat conversation is not "official" until "the man" has weighed in! How you doin' PC good to see ya!

Worf

 

[Peacoat]

A Pea Coat conversation is not "official" until "the man" has weighed in! How you doin' PC good to see ya!

Worf

Thanks Worf. I am going to move this thread to the main Peacoat Thread. Was going to do it this morning and then got distracted.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

I have an opportunity to buy a vintage navy peacoat, and was curious about two things in particular. One is, I wonder if anyone can tell if it's truly vintage and determine its authenticity from looking at it? The seller doesn't have much information on it, like it's background or what time period it was made in. The other thing is I see what looks like a few loose buttons, does it look that way to you or am I imagining it? Is that something that's easy to get fixed?

I included the photos of it, any input and advice concerning the authenticity of it, as well as the thing with the buttons being loose would be much appreciated. Thank you.

eirI have an opportunity to buy a vintage navy peacoat, and was curious about two things in particular. One is, I wonder if anyone can tell if it's truly vintage and determine its authenticity from looking at it? The seller doesn't have much information on it, like it's background or what time period it was made in. The other thing is I see what looks like a few loose buttons, does it look that way to you or am I imagining it? Is that something that's easy to get fixed?

I included the photos of it, any input and advice concerning the authenticity of it, as well as the thing with the buttons being loose would be much appreciated. Thank you.

If I remember right the inside pocket is a diaganal slit on the right inside of the Melton coats. There is a lot of information on it . Was just looking at my 2 Meltons. They are pretty good lookin' coats.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

If you let me see the tags on the WWII, I might be able to narrow the range of years for you.

Sorry about that Peacoat. I just saw your offer for the CG WWII button ID. Will get those button photos out soon.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Sorry about that Peacoat. I just saw your offer for the CG WWII button ID. Will get those button photos out soon.

Peacoat - sorry for the delay. I took pictures of my WW II coats. One came to me with no tag. I don't know if it's a Navy or a CG coat. My 2nd WWII coat has a CG tag which was the tag I had sent you. I took pictures of the buttons on both WWII coats and from two other post war coats. I couldn't get very accurate pictures to compare any. However they all looked exactly the same = there was no difference between any of them. I am basing this on visual inspection. The pictures were taken with my cellphone. I think the most accurate pictures would be from a camera which we don't have.

 

[alandmann]

Thanks @Peacoat.
Do you recall ever seeing one that said Coast Guard on the tag??
B
Ps: hope you are well.

Hi,
I have recently got my hands on a Sterlingwear of Boston Peacoat circa 1970. My question is regarding it's length. It goes longer then butt length... perhaps to mid thigh. The fit elsewhere is fine....I am just wondering is mid thigh length normal for a peacoat?
Thank you

 

[Peacoat]

Hi,
I have recently got my hands on a Sterlingwear of Boston Peacoat circa 1970. My question is regarding it's length. It goes longer then butt length... perhaps to mid thigh. The fit elsewhere is fine....I am just wondering is mid thigh length normal for a peacoat?
Thank you

No, that is way too long. A peacoat should end an Inch or two below the butt.

Why do you think your peacoat is about 1970? And why do you think it is a "Sterlingwear of Boston?" Although they were making peacoats then, I'm not aware they were using that name in 1970.

I'm always interested in learning something new.

 

[VansonRider]

Found a size 44 Long in Kersey, if anyones looking for one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3157502261...ws9FqC8QJq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Peacoat]

Found a size 44 Long in Kersey, if anyones looking for one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3157502261...ws9FqC8QJq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY View attachment 640463 View attachment 640464

Excellent find; a rare peacoat. Put that in the classifieds.

Looks to be XL and not just a Long.

Can you give us a measurement down the back and of the sleeve length, following the bend in the sleeve?

 

[VansonRider]

Excellent find; a rare peacoat. Put that in the classifieds.

Looks to be XL and not just a Long.

Can you give us a measurement down the back and of the sleeve length, following the bend in the sleeve?

It’s on Ebay, not mine

 

[giogio97]

Hello. I read the guide, I have a question about this 1975 "Modern Garments" peacoat found around 30$. Do you know if it is kersey or melton wool. If it is melton, is it worth more than a schott 740n about the same price?

 

[Peacoat]

You are pushing my limits on this one.

General thoughts: the Navy didn't go to the Melton (all black) until 1980; however, there were contracts before then that specified Melton. Most of the ones I have seen have noted it was Melton on the tag. This just says "100% Wool," which tells us nothing.

In several of the photos, the coat appears black. In the last two, it appears to have a blue tint, which indicates Kersey and not Melton. If you can get access to this coat, take a known black object and hold it next to the coat in good lighting conditions. In comparing the two colors, you will have your answer. A blue Kersey will appear to be a deep midnight blue, while a black Melton will appear . . . well, black.

As to your question about the relative worth between the Schott and this coat, I would take this coat even if it cost 5x more than the Schott.

As to the value of this coat, for that price, if I wanted a peacoat, I would buy it even if it were Melton.

I'm going out on a limb here, but my studied opinion, based on 30+ years of research, is that this is a Kersey coat. While there are several factors that mitigate against this, the color in the last two pictures lead me to believe it is Kersey. But if you have access to the coat, you can perform your own testing and have a definitive result.

Please let us know the denouement.

 

[VansonRider]

Hello. I read the guide, I have a question about this 1975 "Modern Garments" peacoat found around 30$. Do you know if it is kersey or melton wool. If it is melton, is it worth more than a schott 740n about the same price?


View attachment 651083 View attachment 651084 View attachment 651085

For 30 bucks just buy it. A Navy issue pea coat in a size 46 that’s pre-Quarterdeck era are as rare as hens teeth. You could sell it for $60.00 if you don’t like it, double your investment, and whoever bought it for $60 would still be getting a smoking deal on a super nice pea coat.

 

[giogio97]

I bought it. From the description it has some signs on collar but it is OK is so hard to find one here in Europe and a size over 40
I hope that it is in Kersry.
This has the same DSA... of this one, almost the same label

Hello I just purchased this pea coat on ebay. Trying to see what year it is. This is the only tag on the coat(inside pocket) the hand pocket is white inside. Ill put the link for the coat I got. Thanks!
https://m.ebay.com/itm/US-Navy-Pea-Coat-40R-CPO-Chief-Petty-Officer-Enlisted-Mens-Authentic-100-Wool/114487729466?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5574933636&toolid=10001&campid=5337464680&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eebay%2Ecom%2Fitm%2FUS-Navy-Pea-Coat-40R-CPO-Chief-Petty-Officer-Enlisted-Mens-Authentic-100-Wool%2F114487729466&srcrot=711-53200-19255-0&rvr_id=2771911793887&rvr_ts=0f035deb1770a77d3ef54bc5ffbf7656&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true#vi__app-cvip-panel

And @Peacoat said that it was an easy answer in the next post a 1975 kersey coat. I will upload some pics when it will arrive, thank you

 

[Peacoat]

I bought it. From the description it has some signs on collar but it is OK is so hard to find one here in Europe and a size over 40
I hope that it is in Kersry.
This has the same DSA... of this one, almost the same label

And @Peacoat said that it was an easy answer in the next post a 1975 kersey coat. I will upload some pics when it will arrive, thank you

Yes, please do.