Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Peacoat]

Replacement buttons are readily available on ebay. Yes, please post some photos when you get the chance. If your coat is a WWII, and if it has the contract number still on the tag, I can probably give you an exact year, assuming I can find my research material.

 

[Little Elvis]

Replacement buttons are readily available on ebay. Yes, please post some photos when you get the chance. If your coat is a WWII, and if it has the contract number still on the tag, I can probably give you an exact year, assuming I can find my research material.

OK. Here goes. I'm afraid I don't have as much info as I hoped, but I'd love to know your expert opinion on what I have.

(notice the missing button)

Here is the label, which has not been filled out

Cord Pockets

Collar tab:

Sleeve stitching:

For the life of me, I can't figure out why I know it's a 46. Perhaps there was a label that I ripped off just below the hanging loop here:

 

[Big Fella]

Peacoat

You guys are a bad influnce on me!! You have me thinking I need a Peacoat. I'm a size 48. What manufacture should I be looking at?

 

[Peacoat]

No, we are a good influence. The best way to go (only way in my opinion) is vintage (prior to 1980) issue. The link below will take you to the sticky at the top of the Outerwear section. There you will find a primer on vintage peacoats, and the dating thereof. The first thing you need to do, after reading the article of course, is to measure your chest wearing a tight fitting T shirt. That will be your starting point. Don't depend on your normal suit size; that can lead to mistakes in sizing a vintage peacoat.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35824-PEACOAT-DATING

One of our members, Spoonbelly takes a 46 or 48. He might be willing to give you some tips on obtaining one in the larger sizes; he has some nice ones.

 

[Little Elvis]

Any insight/dating?

 

[EmergencyIan]

Mr. PeaCoat is the authority here on Pea Coats.

However, I just received a WWII era Pea Coat a couple of weeks ago. Your Pea Coat certainly looks to be a WWII era coat to me. The 4th row of buttons was deleted in 1946 or 1947 and that also caused just a bit of a design change to the Pea Coat. The chin strap ( I think it's called something like that) was also deleted by this point. I also believe that by the end of WWII the Naval Clothing Factory began printing the size of the Pea Coat on the Name/Rate label and did away with that collar tag that was used prior to that during in the war. The Pea Coat that I recently received still has it's collar tag and I can still see that yours had one. Legible collar tags are pretty darn rare to find on these WWII era Pea Coats. Too bad that you removed yours.

At any rate, I would think that your Pea Coat was manufactured from just prior to World War Two and 1944. Mr. Peacoat will correct me if I am wrong.

- Ian

 

[Peacoat]

I can't give a date closer than WWII, but for something 65 to 70 years old, that ought to be close enough.

 

[Spoonbelly]

I do take a size 46, or 46L(long). There is a 48R on ebay right now. It is a black one, and not one of the older dark blue Kersey coats. I have been checking ebay everyday for the past 11 months, and have only come across 2 or 3 size 48 coats which are the old dark blue Kersey ones. The more modern day black coats show up every couple to a few months on ebay. There might be a black size 48 for sale at Vintage Trends.com. Not positive but I still think it's still listed. The old Kerseys in size 48 are a rare bird.

 

[Little Elvis]

I can't give a date closer than WWII, but for something 65 to 70 years old, that ought to be close enough.

Awesome. Thanks!

 

[Little Elvis]

Replacement buttons are readily available on ebay. Yes, please post some photos when you get the chance. If your coat is a WWII, and if it has the contract number still on the tag, I can probably give you an exact year, assuming I can find my research material.

Are there any differences between new peacoat buttons that I can find many places and the buttons that are original to my WWII coat? Were the buttons made of plastic back then? I know not to purchase buttons with the 13 stars, which I understand come from earlier coats.

 

[Peacoat]

Are there any differences between new peacoat buttons that I can find many places and the buttons that are original to my WWII coat? Were the buttons made of plastic back then? I know not to purchase buttons with the 13 stars, which I understand come from earlier coats.

The early buttons were Bakelite, but I think the ones you need are the standard black plastic buttons that are readily available. If, after you get them, and see that you actually need the Bakelite, then we can worry about the Bakelite buttons at that time.

 

[Spoonbelly]

The buttons with the 13 stars are quite older. They have those buttons on WWI coats. I don't know from what years they were issued, but I would guess they changed them to the present day design some time in the '30s? The buttons they put on today look almost the same as the 50 and 60 year old buttons but are not exactly the same quality. I think the WWII buttons were bakelite, but I'm not sure. The newer buttons are plastic. I've noticed very sleight differences in the buttons throughout the WWII - '60s years. The anchor is not exactly the same on the older buttons as on the newer buttons. The buttons found on the present day cheaper "department store" pea coats are lighter in weight and are a cheaper plastic. I might need some buttons for myself as I'm considering taking off the metal buttons on one of my coats and replacing them with the black anchor buttons.

 

[Peacoat]

Spoon, if you go to Ebay for the buttons, try to get some that are used and as old as possible. That way you will be period correct with that '51 peacoat. The older ones will have slight surface scratches and will have developed a matte finish, rather than a shiny finish--button patina. Of course that is difficult to determine while buying online. Some of the button sellers are knowledgeable and will understand what you are looking for.

Also, there in the City there will be shops that have all types of buttons, including the ones your are looking for, and you can inspect them in person. Living in that area does have a few advantages.

 

[dep126]

Peacoat, have you ever looked at the spacing of the buttons on different year coats? I just noticed the buttons on my late 40's/early50's coat are pretty close together. Maybe two inches or so of space between them (side-to-side) while my 65-66 coat has them spaced farther apart. They all seem to be original buttons as well. Just something I noticed.

 

[Peacoat]

I have noticed the really early coats, like maybe the 20s, tend to have buttons closer together, but haven't noticed that on the modern day peacoats. Later today I will measure mine and see if mine are the same way.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Hello Again Mr. Peacoat,
Thanks for the button tip. Actually I have a '53 coming, and for some reason this one has gold buttons?? Maybe a Naval academy coat? Any who, between the '51 or the '53 , I'm pretty sure I will switch one of them to black anchor.

 

[Dave E]

My 38" peacoat that I bought recently has had the collar pressed further open to create a different natural neckline (the lapels break below the first row of buttons now), which I'm trying to correct. Any tips on the best way to get it back into shape?

On a related note, I know the bottom two rows of buttons have been resewn to the coat, but I'm also starting to think they have been moved somewhat to work with the more open neckline that someone was trying to achieve with the coat. Are there any measurements out there that I can reference to check my button placement? I'm thinking about how far they should be from the edge of the coat. Failing that, is anyone willing to lay their coat out open and take a picture so I can take a look at button placement from that?

 

[Little Elvis]

The early buttons were Bakelite, but I think the ones you need are the standard black plastic buttons that are readily available. If, after you get them, and see that you actually need the Bakelite, then we can worry about the Bakelite buttons at that time.

I'm happy to say that the buttons I got from ebay appear to be pretty much an exact match. The new buttons appear to be very slightly (less than 1mm) thicker than the old ones at the edges. You would really have to put the two buttons together side by to see the difference though. Who knows, the old ones may have even rounded out at the edges over time. At the end of the day, I'm very pleased. For $10 including shipping, I received 8 regular large buttons and two small buttons that are under the collar. I now no longer have to worry about losing one.

Thanks for all the help here!

 

[Aether]

I've been a longtime admirer of the veritable Peacoat, and after reading Mr Peacoat's excellent 'sticky' I took the plunge and bought a '61 from the 'bay for the grand sum of $19. It arrived the other day. The moths have been nibbling at it a bit, but it fits well and is really warm. I'm seriously contemplating getting another now!

Thanks for giving me the bug Peacoat! At least they're a cheaper addiction than Aeros...

 

[CC-1]

Looks very good on you, hits just right!
I note how the hems line up from right and left side when buttoned.
Vintage coats are a good trading card when looking to move up.