Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Dave E]

My 38" peacoat that I bought recently has had the collar pressed further open to create a different natural neckline (the lapels break below the first row of buttons now), which I'm trying to correct. Any tips on the best way to get it back into shape?

On a related note, I know the bottom two rows of buttons have been resewn to the coat, but I'm also starting to think they have been moved somewhat to work with the more open neckline that someone was trying to achieve with the coat. Are there any measurements out there that I can reference to check my button placement? I'm thinking about how far they should be from the edge of the coat. Failing that, is anyone willing to lay their coat out open and take a picture so I can take a look at button placement from that?

Actually, I've had a proper look at my buttons, and it looks like the bottom 2 on each side were replaced by someone with all the accuracy of a blind chimpanzee. My assumption is that the buttons should be a uniform distance from the edge of the coat. On mine, the distance varies by about half an inch, and the bottom one on the right is even sewn on too high up. I'm going to work on the theory that the third button up is placed correctly (stitching looks original to me) and work from that to relocate the others.

 

[brotato]

Since I can't send PM's, this is my little "thank you" letter to Mr. Peacoat.

You've just made me a very happy person.

I've been looking for a pea coat since this summer and was about to pull the trigger on a Diesel pea coat until I stumbled upon your pea coat dating thread. I decided to go ahead and look for a WWII era coat on eBay, but since I'm no good at this bidding stuff (and impatient after losing 3 auctions) I went ahead and ordered one in my size from vintagetrends.com. They did a fine job with the entire ordering process. They listed it as Excellent Condition, but the description said Mint, so it sort of makes me wonder which one they meant due to a few small defects the coat has.

It cost me $100 more than it would have on eBay (I've seen excellent condition [or so they say] WWII coats go for $125), but it was worth every penny. It's a 1943 size 38 coat and it fits me like a glove, with or without the a sweater underneath. Even the shoulders sit perfectly. The quality is something that I've never seen before. And it's a bit jarring seeing the sailor's name on the tag. It makes me wonder what happened to him.

It has a few tiny stains on it, but I'm going to find a damn good dry cleaner who will take care of it to try to get them out. It also has about 3 repaired moth holes on the front, but if I button it from right to left they're unnoticable. I'm almost afraid to wear the thing because I never thought I'd own something so nice.

Thank you so much for your dedication and help with these coats. Next up: another WWII coat for safe keeping, Korean War era, and finally a Vietnam era. I'm addicted!

Are there any particular dates that I should look for?

Now I'm just worried about maintaining the thing since it's the first time I've owned a wool coat. Anyway, thanks again.

To everyone else: Happy Holidays!

 

[Peacoat]

Since I can't send PM's, this is my little "thank you" letter to Mr. Peacoat.

You've just made me a very happy person.

I've been looking for a pea coat since this summer and was about to pull the trigger on a Diesel pea coat until I stumbled upon your pea coat dating thread. I decided to go ahead and look for a WWII era coat on eBay, but since I'm no good at this bidding stuff (and impatient after losing 3 auctions) I went ahead and ordered one in my size from vintagetrends.com. They did a fine job with the entire ordering process. They listed it as Excellent Condition, but the description said Mint, so it sort of makes me wonder which one they meant due to a few small defects the coat has.

It cost me $100 more than it would have on eBay (I've seen excellent condition [or so they say] WWII coats go for $125), but it was worth every penny. It's a 1943 size 38 coat and it fits me like a glove, with or without the a sweater underneath. Even the shoulders sit perfectly. The quality is something that I've never seen before. And it's a bit jarring seeing the sailor's name on the tag. It makes me wonder what happened to him.

It has a few tiny stains on it, but I'm going to find a damn good dry cleaner who will take care of it to try to get them out. It also has about 3 repaired moth holes on the front, but if I button it from right to left they're unnoticable. I'm almost afraid to wear the thing because I never thought I'd own something so nice.

Thank you so much for your dedication and help with these coats. Next up: another WWII coat for safe keeping, Korean War era, and finally a Vietnam era. I'm addicted!

Are there any particular dates that I should look for?

Now I'm just worried about maintaining the thing since it's the first time I've owned a wool coat. Anyway, thanks again.

To everyone else: Happy Holidays!

Glad it worked out for you. It's always good to hear from someone who got a good fit the first time. I sometimes get a bit too exuberant over these coats, so it's good to see someone else who appreciates the quality.

Yes, you will need to protect the coat from moths. My wife and I have a lot of woolen coats (as might be expected) and accessories in all of our closets. So all closets are moth protected. I use the type of moth repellent that hangs in the closet and is advertised as effective for 4 months. I replace after three months. Can't remember the brand name, but it is a national product. No odor. Have been using them for years with no moth damage--that I am aware of.

A spare WWII coat is always a good idea. And you are on the right track getting one from each of the eras. Some aficionados I have talked to have one from each of the eras, as well as a spare from each era. The thing for me is the tags. I think I have, or have had, peacoats with all, or almost all, of the issued tags from the past 65 years.

You will find the same quality in the coats up through 1979 as you find in your WWII coat. Evidently it got too expensive for the Navy to continue with the old Kersey wool, so they switched to something else. Not to take anything away from the newer coats, as they are still warm coats, but it is just different.

Stay warm.

 

[brotato]

Thank you for the information. I've been wearing it every other day and it's been a dream to wear. I think I have found a second coat that I'm ready to purchase, but I'm having doubts of its authenticity because its tag doesn't match any of the ones in your dating thread. It's similar to this one you have posted:

The only difference is that it doesn't say 100% Wool Exclusive underneath NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY. Other than that it's the same and it has a name written on it. Since the store isn't vintage trends, I need to make sure I'm not getting ripped off. Your tag examples are extremely helpful otherwise.

 

[Peacoat]

The absence of that language under the NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY line perhaps marks it as a WWII peacoat. When properly buttoned (but not buttoned at the throat), how many rows of buttons are showing? What type of stitching is showing at the cuff and 3" above the cuff? What type of lining is in the hand warmer pockets? What type of lining is inside the coat? Can you post a picture of the tag, the lining and of the front of the coat while buttoned? These are clues that can lead me to determine the authenticity and age of the peacoat. I haven't seen any phony tags as you describe, but they may be out there. I have a good eye for detail, and a photograph of the areas I have asked you about can tell me a lot.

 

[brotato]

Ah screw it. It's an ebay auction and I was hoping not to bring more attention to it than it already has by posting the link haha.

Here it is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/VTG-WWII-40s-Naval-10-Button-WOOL-Pea-COAT-Jacket-38-/200564553362?pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item2eb2943692#ht_3129wt_922

You have a point about these tags being difficult to fake. Everything else looks legit, but that tag made me question it.

 

[Peacoat]

Ah screw it. It's an ebay auction and I was hoping not to bring more attention to it than it already has by posting the link haha.

Here it is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/VTG-WWII-40s-Naval-10-Button-WOOL-Pea-COAT-Jacket-38-/200564553362?pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item2eb2943692#ht_3129wt_922

You have a point about these tags being difficult to fake. Everything else looks legit, but that tag made me question it.

It's the real deal.

 

[AlterEgo]

Update for Peacoat, Anyone Who Cares

Thank you so much again for the info on my old peacoat you furnished back in Jan. '08 when my handle was NonEntity.

Though purchased at a military surplus store in the early '70s, it's a Schott Bros. civilian version made on its WW II pattern. However, like the new Schotts, I'm now pretty sure mine is 20% nylon.

I say "mine," but I recently gave it to a good buddy, as he's a military gear aficionado, and it's too small for me. I still had the petty officer first class insiginia my mom's old boss gave me back then but never got put on the coat, so I sewed it on for him--27 years after the fact.

I hope he lives 1/10th the life I did wearing that peacoat!

 

[Peacoat]

Glad to be able to help you out.

 

[brotato]

Turns out a buddy of mine won that auction I linked to. I'm not too upset because the coat did have holes at the collar (they advertised it as having none at all) and, even worse, the sleeve was separating from the shoulder! He's definitely sending it back. Whenever nature decides to stop pounding my area with snow and ice, I'd like to visit some flea markets or surplus stores or whatever to look for some pea coats. Does anyone here have any suggestions for the NYC/Northern NJ area?

 

[Peacoat]

Turns out a buddy of mine won that auction I linked to. I'm not too upset because the coat did have holes at the collar (they advertised it as having none at all) and, even worse, the sleeve was separating from the shoulder! He's definitely sending it back. Whenever nature decides to stop pounding my area with snow and ice, I'd like to visit some flea markets or surplus stores or whatever to look for some pea coats. Does anyone here have any suggestions for the NYC/Northern NJ area?

In the City you can try No Relation Vintage, on 1st Ave between 12th and 13th. I believe the address is 204 1st Ave. If you are familiar with Manhattan, it is in the East Village. It has a blue awning above the door and windows. I just looked up the phone number--212 228-5201

 

[brotato]

Hey thanks again Peacoat. I should take a picture some day of me wearing my WWII beauty.

 

[Peacoat]

Hey thanks again Peacoat. I should take a picture some day of me wearing my WWII beauty.

Well, let's see the pictures.

 

[brotato]

Tada! This is without a sweater underneath. I was too lazy to put it on just for a photoshoot (it's really nice out, I can get away with a t-shirt and a jacket), but regardless, it fits rather well. I definitely need to get back into working out, though. I feel deflated.


http://i53.tinypic.com/30dbclc.jpg

http://tinypic.com/r/2yx585d/7

http://i55.tinypic.com/am8dox.jpg

 

[ButteMT61]

Looks like. It was made for you! Don't tink you could ask for more. Nicely done.

 

[Peacoat]

That coat is a real beauty. Good fit as well. Have you made it over to No Relation Vintage in the East Village yet?

 

[brotato]

Looks like. It was made for you! Don't tink you could ask for more. Nicely done.

Thanks, I agree. I'm grateful to have found such a nice one.

Peacoat: Not yet, I have an exam to worry about. But I'll see about going within the next two weeks when I can settle down a bit. I can't wait to go, just to see the stuff they offer.

 

[Mataglap]

Hi,
a the end of last year I toyed with the idea of getting a peacoat.
Everything I tried on locally could best be described as fancy but flimsy and I'm getting to old to feel pretty but cold.
Then I found a Navy peacoat listed on ebay and two things became immediatly obvious:
a) I want one
and
b) I don't know enough to make an informed decision.

Google brought me to Mr. Peacoats outstanding Peacout Dating thread and the information found there helped me tremendously to find out excatly what I want and what to look for.
I want a post WWII with six buttons showing and corduroy pockets, I guess that puts me in the 1946-1967 date range.

I'm still a bit mystified by american messurements and clothing sizes and since anything I buy will probably have to cross the atlantic ocean I want to get it right the first time. Smaller problems can be fixed here but I can't do anything about the size.
I translated my metric messurements with the help of google and came up with the following:
Height: 5'8''
Weight: 156 lbs
Chest: 39 inches with a smaller waist that I forgot to write down.

I think that would translate to a 40R coat but I would love to hear a second opinion before I start looking for one.

 

[JanSolo]

Mmh, Lower Saxony? A genuine peacoat, made from that thick and soft Kersey wool is probably exactly what you want! (Still cold, isn't it? "Bangig kalt", so to say...)
Anyway, considering your measurements you can easily get away with a size 38!!

Here are a couple of pics of me wearing my minty '68 Dale Fashions.
It was Peacoat who convinced me to get a vintage one and this was defintely my best purchase in 2010!

I bought it from www.vintagetrends.com and I would buy from them again any day of the week!!

My metric measurements: 183 cm, 98cm chest (true 39 inches), 78 kg. The coat (size 38) has a trim military fit but as you can see there's still enough room for a shirt and a sweater underneath.

I'm getting too old to feel pretty but cold.

I have to disagree!! Not only is a Kersey wool peacoat much warmer, softer and more luxurious than anything highstreet shop related but also more fitted and much better looking!

 

[CC-1]

Metaglap- I absolutey agree with JanSolo. My weight and measurements are exactly the same as yours (waist 32 inches) and I have no less than four vintage coats from 1944-1980. Size 38 is not snug, leaves room for a sweater (like any gob should have when especially nasty), but fits extremely well. Size 40 leaves a great nuisance flap of material bopping about when the coat is open and looks boxy- just extra useless weight- john