Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Peacoat]

Up until 1980 all peacoats, with a few exceptions, were made of Kersey wool. In the mid to late 70s the Navy let some contracts for the Melton wool, evidently experimenting with changing to Melton. From all I have seen, these coats were marked as Melton wool. Evidently, from what you tell us, some of the coats were black Melton, instead of the midnight blue. Not sure if these coats had the insulating liner or not.

When the Melton coats were first issued, I know there were complaints about the lack of warmth from those in the colder climates. The Navy fixed this by adding the liner. Don't know when this was. Evidently it was in the period of the mid to late 70s, as I have a 1980 coat (first year of the changeover) that has the liner. I hadn't noticed until someone mentioned that Navy had started that practice because of the complaints.

Nor did I know the Navy issued the "black" Melton peacoats as early as 1975. I thought it was in 1977 or thereabouts. I have one or two coats from the late 70s and they are of the standard Kersey midnight blue shell.

Thanks for the information. I will add it to the data bank.

 

[Gene Allen]

Well, I wouldn't swear to the slight difference you mentioned.
We thought they were black, but just to the eye.
We complained because we felt cheated out of a USN tradition.
The older coats though, were an obvious difference.
I really don't remember details about a lining or no lining at all.

 

[Peacoat]

Yes, your coat looked black, but the Navy and the contractor called it blue-a very dark blue, so dark it looked black. It looks black to me.

You wouldn't have noticed the insulating liner unless you were specifically feeling for it. If your coat blocked the wind at Great Lakes and kept you reasonably warm, it had the lining. If you could feel the wind coming through the shell, it didn't have one.

 

[Gene Allen]

Interesting about the color.
We had no idea at the time
I was at San Diego so not a lot of cold weather
The coldest was when we went in the yards in Bremerton.
It was warm enough for there.
I'm sure any colder, it would not have been enough.
The foul weather jackets were much warmer.

 

[Peacoat]

Interesting about the color.
We had no idea at the time
I was at San Diego so not a lot of cold weather
The coldest was when we went in the yards in Bremerton.
It was warm enough for there.
I'm sure any colder, it would not have been enough.
The foul weather jackets were much warmer.

Yes, the foul weather jackets are warmer. I have the permeable and the impermeable. I wear the impermeable in the snow, and the permeable when it is just cold. Over the years the impermeable is not as waterproof as it once was, so I don't wear it much in a heavy rain.

I have added your recent information to the peacoat dating guide. Thanks for the help.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Yes, the foul weather jackets are warmer. I have the permeable and the impermeable. I wear the impermeable in the snow, and the permeable when it is just cold. Over the years the impermeable is not as waterproof as it once was, so I don't wear it much in a heavy rain.

I have added your recent information to the peacoat dating guide. Thanks for the help.

Congrats on the promotion Peacoat.
Bartender is like what? Fullbird Colonel or General or something, right?
Hope they up your pay rate to that.
OUTSTANDING!!
Bowen

 

[Peacoat]

Congrats on the promotion Peacoat.
Bartender is like what? Fullbird Colonel or General or something, right?
Hope they up your pay rate to that.
OUTSTANDING!!
Bowen

MK is the Commander in Chief with Scotrace and Nathan being 4 star (full) generals. And there are several lower level generals below them. I'm probably a bird colonel, along with the rest of the junior bartenders, with me being the most junior. Since you asked, I did get a nice pay raise out of it. I'm now making double what I made as a member!

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

MK is the Commander in Chief with Scotrace and Nathan being 4 star (full) generals. And there are several lower level generals below them. I'm probably a bird colonel, along with the rest of the junior bartenders, with me being the most junior. Since you asked, I did get a nice pay raise out of it. I'm now making double what I made as a member!

Lol....sounds like a round of drinks on me, or a cup of coffee!! Lol
B

 

[Peacoat]

I ran across an interesting listing in the Classifieds. Board member Kubatu has listed a WWII peacoat with a stated p2p size of 25". If accurate, this would be a size 48 coat. Extremely rare in vintage peacoats, especially in the WWII style.

I imagine our members who require a larger size, such as @Spoonbelly might be interested in this.

 

[Spoonbelly]

I ran across an interesting listing in the Classifieds. Board member Kubatu has listed a WWII peacoat with a stated p2p size of 25". If accurate, this would be a size 48 coat. Extremely rare in vintage peacoats, especially in the WWII style.

I imagine our members who require a larger size, such as @Spoonbelly might be interested in this.

Peacoat,
Thank you for the heads up. I do have one size 46 WWII peacoat that is in mint condition. Size 48 would be too big for me. My wool closet is also filled to the max. Although I would still love to get my two fantasy coats - a 1949 46Long, and a 1958 46Long. I'm not even sure if those coats exist in size 46 Long. Size 48 in a WWII coat is very RARE.

 

[Peacoat]

Kubatu has posted pics of his p2p measurement. It is indeed 25" which gives it a size of 46 to 48, probably closer to a 48. Board member @Atticus Finch takes the larger size, but this one may be too large for him.

 

[busstonedfx]

Hi everyone..

I recently received what I believed would be my holy gail Peacoat. I think it was a 1962, with corduroy pockets..... from what I understood about Peacoat's dating post (thanks for the info!!! it was so helpful)

It was a size 34 R.... Here is a picture of me in it:

https://imgur.com/a/A83P1hp

Is 34R the correct sizing for me, based on those pics? Are 34R's consistent among the Milsurp Peacoats?

I was hoping that someone with more experience/insight could help me, since I can use this opportunity to fine tune sizing...

The wool is very thick and durable, and I can see why people recommend vintage kersey wool... but more and more I feel like I may be better suited buying a new, civilian coat, after having received what I was seeking for weeks and weeks... I am a bit disappointed. this jacket felt, smelled, and looked obviously used... which this seemed to be... Tooo used... Sadly, there was alot of damage on the inside when I received, so I sent it back to the seller.

I was leaning towards a new,civilian version of Sterlingwear Authentic or Schott 740... how does the sizing compare to those old surplus peacoats from the 60's? I know that the older ones are slimmer, but does that mean if I wore a 34 in vintage, I'd fit in a current issue 34?

I didnt't specifically want to get into civilian Sterlingwear vs civilain Schott, or melton vs kersey.... I hear it's like coke vs pepsi......(but i'd still love to hear new opinions!) but as for the 100% wool Sterlingwears (current navy contract?) vs 80% wool Sterlingwears (made for civilians)... what should I be leaning towards?

assuming I can get my hands on a new 100% wool sterlingwear..would need to come from sterlingwear directly, as a custom order? or do I need to know someone in the navy?

Thank you all for your input and time.... I've cruised these forums ALOT.... and value all your opinons.

 

[Peacoat]

The coat you have is a desirable vintage coat. Unfortunately it doesn't fit you. Probably 2 sizes too large. And no, Kersey vs. Melton isn't like coke vs. Pepsi. There really is no comparison.

Your coat needs a dry cleaning. Get it cleaned, put it in moth proof storage for a few years, and then wear it. By then you will have matured a bit, put on some weight, and it should fit you. It is a very nice coat.

 

[busstonedfx]

It's sitting in the box with the return label ready to be sent back to the seller.. I really would rather have the money to find a new jacket in, I guess, 32r? I've wanted this coat a long time.... but I really can't justify keeping it when I don't fit in it, and it needs a lot of repairing to be done, with holes in places that are pretty unsightly.... and I want a coat I can actually wear now...
Maybe not coke vs pepsi... but I think I've mentally leaned toward wantng a true black color in melton, rather than the kersey that seems to be a deep deep dark blue...,, because I can get a Schott or a Sterlingwear tomorrow in the perfect size for me...
I really like the corduroy pockets though... I'll hopefully find another vintage peacoat from the 60's in 32r..
If i had the choice between a vintage 1980 Melton in 32r, or a new schott/sterlingwear, which would you think is a better coat?
and i should get a new sterlingwear, should I get one in 100% wool,or 80%?
Thank you for the reply!

 

[Peacoat]

You won't find a vintage Kersey in a 32. And I doubt you will find a Melton is a size 32 either; they are really rare. Just get whatever fits you now. When you outgrow that, then you will have a real vintage peacoat to wear.

 

[busstonedfx]

won't, as in they didn't make them? or they are really that rare?
i don't know the rules about posting ebay links, but there seems to be a vintage 100% melton 32r for sale right now, that would maybe fit me. would you pull the trigger on that, or go for the new schott/sterlingwear, if you were me?

 

[Peacoat]

Post the link; it is OK. Be tomorrow before I respond, though.

The size 32 were made, but just not that many of them.

I would always go with vintage (Kersey) over modern if I could find a vintage peacoat in my size. Kersey is much nicer than the current issue Melton.

 

[busstonedfx]

From the last eBay experience I had with the 60's 34r from my original post, they chose camera angles that deliberately hid real damage to the stitching

Are there anything suspicious/red flags in this auction that i am missing? it seems that it is missing 2 buttons, the top right button, and the button on the inside...

Replacing buttons is okay... anything else though... i'd probably be hesitant...

thank you for lending an expert eye

I appreciate you taking the time to reply at all!

 

[Peacoat]

This is a 1980 peacoat. It will be the black Melton (post 1979 Kersey wool coats). But it is a size 32. I would go for it.
And the price is right. In a couple of years, when you have grown some, your Kersey coat will fit you. Don't send the Kersey back. Keep it for the comparison and to wear later.

Replacement buttons are easily obtained and sewn on.

 

[busstonedfx]

I just pulled the trigger on that 1980's melton in 32r... I hope I don't regret it! and i hope it fits me!

am i really gonna start collecting coats now, i really can't afford this dry cleaning and repair jobs (if I keep them both)

really gonna think about keeping that kersey in 34r for another 24h then... let me sleep on it..

https://imgur.com/a/cNUmjjT

These are the pics of the damage from the 60's kersey one...
there are tears in the lining in both armholes...
the collar seems to have been ripped, and sloppily sewn back on... that doesn't look normal, right?
and that rip in the button hole, although no very visible while the jacket is buttoned shut, really bothers me... i hate tears in the front of a jacket... in the sides/back i can ignore it... but if i know it's there, i'd keep looking at it...

could be cool to compare the two...

the 80's melton that I just bought and the current issue sterlingwares are of the same specs?