Pre-1950s British/European sportswear and leisurewear

[Two Types]

This is a 1930s football training top from the film The Arsenal Stadium Mystery:

Circa 1990 Marks and Spencer sold a very similar top in heavy blue cotton drill that was called a 'training top'. I believe it was intended to be a direct copy of mid 20th century football training kit.

 

[simonc]

What a cracker, with the correct pockets for fags and field notes.

 

[Two Types]

Here's Bonar Colleano in the 1950 film 'Pool of London':

I'm wondering if this is the same jacket, worn by Harry Fowler in the film 'I Believe in You'. Both films were made by the same company, in the same year:
It has the same button across flap at the waistband as on Coleano's jacket

however this flap isn't always visible, making me think they might have used two similar jackets in 'I Believe in You' (a hole disappears half way through one scene suggesting the jackets were swapped at some point during filming)

rear view

Out of interest, in this shot you can see a man in the background in an interesting leisure shirt.

Earlier in the film Fowler had worn the same shirt

 

[Baron Kurtz]

From a documentary film called Cricket, centred around Don Bradman's last Test match at Lord's (1948). This is a chap coming in through the turnstyles. Nice sportswear jacket.

 

[nightandthecity]

"I believe in You" is far from alone in this TT. A lot of these mid-20th century films weren't too hot on continuity. Re-watching Hunted recently I noticed that Dirk Bogarde actually wears at least two different leather jackets, possibly three. And in some of the publicity stills he seems to wear yet another.

 

[Two Types]

Hunted is currently sitting in the pile of DVDs waiting to be watched. Somewhere in the 'Show Us Their Suits' thread I have posted pics of actors in various films wearing the same outfits (including one jacket seen in four films - Pool of London, The Woman in Question, The Blue Lamp and I Believe in You)

 

[nightandthecity]

I'll be interested to hear your opinion on the jackets. When Dirk Bogarde first appears in a leather jacket he seems to be wearing a Lewis Lumber (or very similar) but it has a one-piece back, unlike the modern LL version, which has a three-piece back (The modern version's back is of course based on the Countryman in their archive, and not on an original Lumber). However, in a couple of scenes what looks like the same jacket may have a two piece back (one vertical seam) so there may have been two of these Lumber style jackets.

Later on he is very definitely wearing a different jacket with (IIRC) no front yoke, and what looks like an unusual ribbed leather waist strip at the back. In addition, I also found a publicity still (can't remember where) in which he is wearing yet another jacket - what looks like a Lewis Countryman - the very different pockets were clearly visible.

If i get the time I'll try and watch it again just to pause it and checkout the jackets!

 

[Metatron]

Funny, I never noticed the second jacket. This is the one that looks like the Lumber jacket, with the ribbed sides.

 

[nightandthecity]

Yes, that's the first jacket that he wears. And I've just noticed another thing that's different about that jacket from the current Lewis Lumber - DB's jacket clearly has button flaps to the pockets, the current jacket has press studs.

 

[nightandthecity]

this is the second (or third) jacket, the non-lumber he wears towards the end of the film. Note the absence of front yoke seams. I can't find a still of the distinctive rear waist.

 

[Cherry picker]

This is a rather curious jacket. I can't tell if it is leather or a rubberised jacket. It is from the film 'The Foreman Went to France' (1942):

I have a jacket that looks very similar to this,made by Wareings (who also made Irvins,Denisons etc).It also has a brass DOT zipper.

 

[nightandthecity]

http://www.moviemail.com/film/dvd/Hunted/

several great stills of the later jacket on this page. I particularly like this one, good clear close up. Pretty sure that's an Irvin style Lightning zip. If you enlarge it you can also see it has faux patch pockets - they are inset like a LL Countryman but the pocket bag is then stitched through from the top so it looks like a patch pocket - I have a couple of jackets like that.

Unfortunately I can't find any clear images of the jacket backs, but both the Lumber style and this one seem to have one piece backs, except in a couple of scenes where he wears a Lumber style which may have a two piece back (film not very clear). And I can't find the totally different jacket (looks like a LL Countryman) used in at least one publicity still!

 

[nightandthecity]

aha! Jacket back. You can just about see it's one piece, or at least no yoke seam

 

[Fastuni]

German 30's casual summer shirt-jacket - obviously meant to be worn over the trousers.
Fabric is linen. The collar is a so called "Schiller collar":

 

[Cherry picker]

Interesting pocket detail,not seen that on a leather jacket.

 

[Chasseur]

Wonderful thread.

My modest contribution a 1930s era French fencing uniform. Off white/natural canvas, lightly padded jacket.

A nice shot of the back that shows how the four separate pieces are put together to give the wearer freedom of movement.

Did I mention I love high waisted trousers with forward pleats

One day I fancy having a copy done up in my size for traditional dueling sabre fencing. One day.

 

[Two Types]

I have a jacket that looks very similar to this,made by Wareings (who also made Irvins,Denisons etc).It also has a brass DOT zipper.

I would like to see photos of that jacket.

 

[Two Types]

Great shirt, Fastuni. Now you need top find one in my size!

 

[Tomasso]

The collar is a so called "Schiller collar"

I've seen that collar go by various names in addition to Schiller. I wonder what it was called before Schiller began wearing it.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I know this is for pre-50s, but I'll include this calf one. It was made by a lady for her husband in the early 1950s. I bought it from the family, and that's the story. This style of Lightning zipper was introduced in the early 50s and continued in production until the early 1960s. this is an interesting jacket with a godawful collar and very rustic pocket flaps. Also the arms were inserted as if they were shirt arms (wrong!) which leads to the exposed seam running in an ugly manner down the front of the arm. I also believe the arms have been put onto the wrong arms. A labour of love! I will be taking out and properly attaching the arms as time allows.