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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,213
Location
Verona - Italia
Every now and then I come across hats very rare on the Italian market
Guerra Grigio 4.jpg

Guerra 1855 is an Italian brand that had its own space in the international market until a few years ago, producing hats of excellent workmanship, but very little present in Italy
Guerra Grigio A.jpg
I have seen many more on the French market than on the local one
Guerra Grigio 8a.jpg
This find happened one day at the end of December 2022 and I bought it immediately because I have other Guerra long hair hats and they are on average very beautiful. We say that felt is better than finishes
Guerra Grigio 7a.jpg

This is the best in quality also in the finishes and the felt is fantastic. Like the others, Guerra is very soft and the hair is very soft. What I appreciate in this brand are the very basic, but very beautiful colors
Guerra Grigio interno.jpg
The hat has a reinforced satin sweatband and a good lining. No labels explaining color and model.
Guerra Grigio B.jpg
The measurements of Guerra 1855 size 58 are as follows: the raw brims are at 7cm and the ribbon is at 4, the open crown is 13cm.
Another strange find in the end of the year
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,213
Location
Verona - Italia
Another hat happened by chance on the trunk of the wisteria to be photographed
Habig A.jpg
Kindly reported by Stefan, I thought I'd buy it even if it's yet another example of a black homburg of which I have a fairly large collection
Habig 3.jpg

I was attracted by the name of the Austrian manufacturer and its high quality reputation. So it is, despite the fact that the hat that arrived has been somewhat neglected over the years
Habig 9.jpg
Patience, brushes and steam have brought it back to excellent condition
Habig Interno.jpg
Habig Special Qualitat size 59 centimeters or 7 3/8 in US.
Habig etichetta carta.jpg
The felt is very soft with a fluffy finish and the rest of it is classy
Habig 5.jpg
These are the measurements of the Austrian Homburg: the curled brims are at 5.5 cm., the ribbon is 5.5 cm. and the open crown is 14.5 centimeters.
Habig 8.jpg

The Habig is elegant and classic with a hint of old Vienna even though it was sold in Linz :)
 
Messages
17,460
Location
Maryland
Another hat happened by chance on the trunk of the wisteria to be photographed
View attachment 478851
Kindly reported by Stefan, I thought I'd buy it even if it's yet another example of a black homburg of which I have a fairly large collection
View attachment 478852
I was attracted by the name of the Austrian manufacturer and its high quality reputation. So it is, despite the fact that the hat that arrived has been somewhat neglected over the years
View attachment 478853
Patience, brushes and steam have brought it back to excellent condition
View attachment 478854
Habig Special Qualitat size 59 centimeters or 7 3/8 in US.
View attachment 478855
The felt is very soft with a fluffy finish and the rest of it is classy
View attachment 478856
These are the measurements of the Austrian Homburg: the curled brims are at 5.5 cm., the ribbon is 5.5 cm. and the open crown is 14.5 centimeters.
View attachment 478857
The Habig is elegant and classic with a hint of old Vienna even though it was sold in Linz :)
Daniele, Great to see this classic. Habig made fantastic Homburgs.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
I had high hopes for this top hat, but I’m often more comfortable in a 7 ¾ (62cm), and the stiffness of the hat doesn’t conform at all to my long oval head. It is in fantastic condition without and of the normal wear or bald areas of the plush at the 90 degree bend at the top of the crown. The crown is 5 ¼” tall and the brim is 2 ¼” at the front and about 1 ⅞” on the sides with a nice D’Orsay curl. No tags that I could find behind the cream colored leather sweatband.

C0DA1F1A-DA58-4677-8272-B69D6260623C.jpeg
37F73E53-E437-446A-99DF-66C9072EF7D9.jpeg
E8137F24-F8C2-4232-9DF7-C608EF8E6920.jpeg
068C226F-5EC3-494D-A004-87E50CB802BA.jpeg
9F8109BA-2C91-47A4-B262-41C3B60F0420.jpeg
BB1221A7-6E7A-438B-AD09-2A52F21F9306.jpeg


This hat will need a new home so send me a PM if you’re interested.

I’m hoping @steur and @mayserwegener can tell me more about this hat
 
Last edited:
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
My new custom Tumwater fedora arrived this afternoon from Tony. Now comes the difficult part of bashing it just the right way. Crudely started.

Specs: 6" open crown, 2 3/8" raw edge brim with a row of decorative stitching. 22 linge navy ribbon with a triple bow.

View attachment 478954
View attachment 478955


Nice! Tony has always offered interesting bow options. It’s been too long since we’ve seen his work.
 
Messages
17,460
Location
Maryland
Berlin - Gubener Hutfabrik, BGH, "Aquila", Wool, 57 cm possibly WWI era. There is only one other BGH on the FL and it's also an "Aquila" Stiff Felt although I believe it's later. Luckily some of the paper label is still present. It's my feeling that BGH was the source of much of the early 1940s and earlier no company mark Wool Stiff and Soft Felt Hats.

52610721141_14eca32a18_h.jpg


52611015079_68bfacb8e3_h.jpg


52610700602_f785c9207c_h.jpg


52597473586_acb919ac19_h.jpg


52597314744_0f66c99fab_h.jpg


52597468131_27bf485b03_h.jpg


52596991307_61c90a66ac_h.jpg
 
Messages
18,363
Location
Nederland
I had high hopes for this top hat, but I’m often more comfortable in a 7 ¾ (62cm), and the stiffness of the hat doesn’t conform at all to my long oval head. It is in fantastic condition without and of the normal wear or bald areas of the plush at the 90 degree bend at the top of the crown. The crown is 5 ¼” tall and the brim is 2 ¼” at the front and about 1 ⅞” on the sides with a nice D’Orsay curl. No tags that I could find behind the cream colored leather sweatband.

View attachment 478927 View attachment 478928 View attachment 478929 View attachment 478930 View attachment 478931 View attachment 478932

This hat will need a new home so send me a PM if you’re interested.

I’m hoping @steur and @mayserwegener can tell me more about this hat
Steve @Steve1857 has had succes with baking his hats (no, really!) and then conforming them to his head shape. Never tried that myself, but it seems to work.
I did find some information about the retailer.

The location was built in 1910 as a location for roasting and mixing coffee varieties.
1910 van Zanten.jpg


In 1926 it was one of the locations for the biggest hat retailer of the country J.S. Meuwsen.
1926 van Zanten.jpg


In 1957 J.A.N. van Zanten celebrated his sixtieth year in the hatting business. The newsclip names the location Prinsestraat 47 as his own business. So the hat is likely made somewhere between 1926 and 1957. A probable candidate as a manufacturer would be Jan Spoorenberg of Eindhoven as they produced tophats under different brandnames, Burton and Ambassador among them. They did use the white sweatbands and size labels that can be seen on this hat.
1957 van Zanten.jpg


These days the location has come full circle, because it is currently a coffeeshop again (no, not one of those).
Espresso-Perfetto-in-Den-Haag.jpg
 
Messages
18,363
Location
Nederland
Berlin - Gubener Hutfabrik, BGH, "Aquila", Wool, 57 cm possibly WWI era. There is only one other BGH on the FL and it's also an "Aquila" Stiff Felt although I believe it's later. Luckily some of the paper label is still present. It's my feeling that BGH was the source of much of the early 1940s and earlier no company mark Wool Stiff and Soft Felt Hats.

52610721141_14eca32a18_h.jpg


52611015079_68bfacb8e3_h.jpg


52610700602_f785c9207c_h.jpg


52597473586_acb919ac19_h.jpg


52597314744_0f66c99fab_h.jpg


52597468131_27bf485b03_h.jpg


52596991307_61c90a66ac_h.jpg
Cool find, Steve. Nice crisp work on the sweatband and other finishings.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,809
Location
Denmark
Steve @Steve1857 has had succes with baking his hats (no, really!) and then conforming them to his head shape. Never tried that myself, but it seems to work.
I did find some information about the retailer.

The location was built in 1910 as a location for roasting and mixing coffee varieties.
View attachment 479335

In 1926 it was one of the locations for the biggest hat retailer of the country J.S. Meuwsen.
View attachment 479336

In 1957 J.A.N. van Zanten celebrated his sixtieth year in the hatting business. The newsclip names the location Prinsestraat 47 as his own business. So the hat is likely made somewhere between 1926 and 1957. A probable candidate as a manufacturer would be Jan Spoorenberg of Eindhoven as they produced tophats under different brandnames, Burton and Ambassador among them. They did use the white sweatbands and size labels that can be seen on this hat.
View attachment 479337

These days the location has come full circle, because it is currently a coffeeshop again (no, not one of those).
View attachment 479338
Some great sleuthing there, Stefan. What a history that shop location has had.

With regard to "baking" hats, I've had some success with Toppers and Bowlers, but I'm not a long oval myself, so don't know how Brent @deadlyhandsome would get on with the process if his Top Hat is more round than long.

It might be worth a try though if he's willing to give it a go.

Let me know Brent. I can give some advice if you want it :cool:
 
Messages
18,363
Location
Nederland
Some great sleuthing there, Stefan. What a history that shop location has had.

With regard to "baking" hats, I've had some success with Toppers and Bowlers, but I'm not a long oval myself, so don't know how Brent @deadlyhandsome would get on with the process if his Top Hat is more round than long.

It might be worth a try though if he's willing to give it a go.

Let me know Brent. I can give some advice if you want it :cool:
I imagine that slipping in a bandblock or a hatjack could work after the hat has softened enough. But you have more experience than I with that kind of thing (still need to try one).
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Some great sleuthing there, Stefan. What a history that shop location has had.

With regard to "baking" hats, I've had some success with Toppers and Bowlers, but I'm not a long oval myself, so don't know how Brent @deadlyhandsome would get on with the process if his Top Hat is more round than long.

It might be worth a try though if he's willing to give it a go.

Let me know Brent. I can give some advice if you want it :cool:

If I thought it was solely a matter of shape I’d probably give it a try. However, I also suspect that its inside circumference is a bit too small for me.
 

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