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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
Sometimes luck comes from where you don't expect it.
I recently came across two rare hats, unfortunately not my size, but being a Monza production, one of the major Italian production centers, I bought them.
Cambiaghi 1-2.jpg

Here are two hats by Giuseppe Cambiaghi, directly from the 1920s, with all the characteristics of hats made in that city and destined for export.
Cambiaghi 1-4.jpg

The magnificent felt in wool and black for both, there is a slight variation, visible in bright light, but the texture of the felt and the color is 95% the same.
Cambiaghi 1-3.jpg

Both have windproof drawcord and anchor points to hold the ribbon in place.
Cambiaghi 1-5.jpg

They are flawlessly finished and destined for a high quality market.
Cambiaghi 1-9.jpg
Cambiaghi 1-8.jpg
Cambiaghi 1-7.jpg
These are the measurements of the two Giuseppe Cambiaghi: the raw brims are 6 cm, the crown 14 cm. open and the ribbon is 5.5 cm.
Cambiaghi 2-2.jpg

This is the second hat, as stated with the same characteristics of his brother, not twin:)
Cambiaghi 2-5.jpg

The sweatband, very elastic and light, has a series of reliefs and designs, no indication of the model or color under it.
I consider myself lucky for this catch. The Giuseppe Cambiaghi history could be request, if you are interesting in Italian hats producers in Monza;)
 

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Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Sometimes luck comes from where you don't expect it.
I recently came across two rare hats, unfortunately not my size, but being a Monza production, one of the major Italian production centers, I bought them.
View attachment 267695
Here are two hats by Giuseppe Cambiaghi, directly from the 1920s, with all the characteristics of hats made in that city and destined for export.
View attachment 267696
The magnificent felt in wool and black for both, there is a slight variation, visible in bright light, but the texture of the felt and the color is 95% the same.
View attachment 267697
Both have windproof drawcord and anchor points to hold the ribbon in place.
View attachment 267698
They are flawlessly finished and destined for a high quality market.
View attachment 267699
View attachment 267700
View attachment 267701
These are the measurements of the two Giuseppe Cambiaghi: the raw brims are 6 cm, the crown 14 cm. open and the ribbon is 5.5 cm.
View attachment 267702
This is the second hat, as stated with the same characteristics of his brother, not twin:)
View attachment 267705
The sweatband, very elastic and light, has a series of reliefs and designs, no indication of the model or color under it.
I consider myself lucky for this catch. The Giuseppe Cambiaghi history could be request, if you are interesting in Italian hats producers in Monza;)
Wonderful finds, Daniele. Surprising to see such high quality finishes on woollen hats.
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
Of my purchase last Sunday I show you two Italians disguised as English
stevens-1-jpg.268328

The first is this H.D. Stevens & Co - Gordon Street - London. Size 59
stevens-3-jpg.268329

Very elegant hat with a combination of colors that is hardly seen in English hats. It reminds me a lot of his friend whom we will see later, but then after having found the label with difficulty, I realized that the source was almost the same as what we will see.

This is a hat produced by Vanzina in the period of Borsalino control and put on the market as a product in the United Kingdom, although it is never mentioned on the sweatband or elsewhere
stevens-interno-totale-jpg.268335

The label speaks very clearly in Italian. The felt is of medium consistency and malleable without the use of steam, but it is a bit stiff compared to products produced under the Italian brand
stevens-9-jpg.268336

The combination of the gray-blue color of the felt with a silver ribbon and the border of the brim of the same color is beautiful
stevens-6-jpg.268337
The measurements are: Trimmed brim 5.9 cm, Crown (open) 13.5 cm. Ribbon is 4 cm
All
.
stevens-7-jpg.268338

All these hats are inventories bought years after their appearance on the market in a historic hat shop in Reggio Emilia
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Of my purchase last Sunday I show you two Italians disguised as English
stevens-1-jpg.268328

The first is this H.D. Stevens & Co - Gordon Street - London. Size 59
stevens-3-jpg.268329

Very elegant hat with a combination of colors that is hardly seen in English hats. It reminds me a lot of his friend whom we will see later, but then after having found the label with difficulty, I realized that the source was almost the same as what we will see.

This is a hat produced by Vanzina in the period of Borsalino control and put on the market as a product in the United Kingdom, although it is never mentioned on the sweatband or elsewhere
stevens-interno-totale-jpg.268335

The label speaks very clearly in Italian. The felt is of medium consistency and malleable without the use of steam, but it is a bit stiff compared to products produced under the Italian brand
stevens-9-jpg.268336

The combination of the gray-blue color of the felt with a silver ribbon and the border of the brim of the same color is beautiful
stevens-6-jpg.268337
The measurements are: Trimmed brim 5.9 cm, Crown (open) 13.5 cm. Ribbon is 4 cm
All
.
stevens-7-jpg.268338

All these hats are inventories bought years after their appearance on the market in a historic hat shop in Reggio Emilia
Very nice find, Daniele. The colours work very well.
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
You already know the second Italian in an English camouflage because I have introduced several in this forum
Charles Dattero 3.jpg

Charles Hatters High Quality. Size 60
Charles Dattero 6.jpg

As can be seen from the labels, the color names are the same as those of Borsalino (Dattero in this case), as well as the shapes and finishes, but in a period of war between the Italian brands of hats to circumvent the prohibitions and reach higher quotas. market pretended to be English
Charles Dattero etichetta carta.jpg
The only difference that can be found compared to Borsalino's own products is the stiffness of the felt, which was very English at the Italian hatters eyes
Charles Dattero interno totale.jpg

This too has a felt of greater stiffness than a Borsalino, but the finishes are the same
Charles Dattero 5.jpg

The hat is completed with a ribbon that matches the color of the felt
Charles Dattero 8.jpg

The measurements are as follows: Over-welded brim at 6cm. Crown (open) 14 cm. and the Ribbon is 4 cm.
Charles Dattero 7.jpg

Both Italians disguised as English have a typical shape of the Italian wide-brimmed hats of the sixties.
Two excellent specimens very well preserved :)
 
Messages
11,718
1950s Dobbs Homburg Black 7 1/4

1A9901F5-FA49-4000-95FC-9F36F406D5A9.jpeg


1950s Dobbs Homburg Black 7 1/4

5 inch crown (4 1/4 to center dent)

2 inch black grosgrain ribbon

2 inch brim to curl with 5/8 matching grosgrain binding

1 3/4 brown sweatband


A real nice 1950s Dobbs Homburg in black. At 7 1/4 This one is a bit too big for me so it will probably be moving along to a new home.

C1BE50E0-3612-42DE-BC0F-91BC4103E0D2.jpeg
06F97F3C-1792-4F06-964A-7C9FA6BDCC8B.jpeg
BF032868-0608-42AA-BDD7-9BFA31280678.jpeg
76F87D0F-9DA2-4E75-94F9-F88C76B9D083.jpeg
764355AF-200C-47C5-9330-AB5157893C57.jpeg
00893113-7315-4572-80E4-5064ECE7538D.jpeg
62F5B93F-F068-4935-9EA7-5251124ABCE7.jpeg
AECAFEC8-E9A7-45BF-9017-6D64E6DA9ABB.jpeg
5892FF0E-07E9-4750-B399-264D367A59A0.jpeg
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
This Borsalino is a perfect example of Italian hat from the late 40's and early 1950's
Borsalino Condor 2.jpg

As new/old stock was bought by the engineer who sold it to me in the Seventies
Borsalino Condor 3.jpg

Borsalino Qualità Extra Extra Superiore size 6 1/2 or 60 cm. and this is a true one of its size
Borsalino Condor 5.jpg

The felt is very light and therefore bears the wording "Z" on the front of the sweatband, it weighs about 90 grams
Borsalino Condor interno totale.jpg

The felt is very soft and highly malleable, once shaped it stays in place
Borsalino Condor etichetta carta.jpg
The color is "Condor" and the type "Ecosca". The sweat band is in excellent shape, but the seam is fragile and some stitches have melted as seen in the photo of the paper label.
Borsalino Condor 6.jpg

The measurements are as follows. Raw brim at 6 cm., the open crown at 13.5 cm. and the ribbon is of average width cm. 3
Borsalino Condor 1.jpg

In this Borsalino the ribbon matches the color of the felt which, in my memory, is rare.
An example of elegance :)
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
Another disguise, this time is a product of "Cappelleria Cervo" disguised and marked as Borsalino
borsalino-ardilla-1-jpg.268837

This "exchange of favors" occurred when one of the companies ran out of material or time to deliver finished hatsor without a specific type of felt or finish, here the camouflage operation was so fast that the label of the real manufacturer remained

Another remaining stock bought in the Seventies.
borsalino-ardilla-interno-totale-jpg.268843

Borsalino Ardilla size 59 cm
borsalino-ardilla-4-jpg.268838

The felt is light, weighs about 100 grams
borsalino-ardilla-6-jpg.268840

The felt is very soft and highly malleable, finished with a medium-sized fur.
The color is green with a light green ribbon to decorate it.
borsalino-ardilla-2-jpg.268841

The measurements are as follows. Raw brim at 6 cm., The open crown at 13.5 cm. and the ribbon is width cm. 4
borsalino-ardilla-3-jpg.268842

This Borsalino-Cervo is a perfect example of collaboration, rare, in the war between Italian hats producers
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
1950s Dobbs Homburg Black 7 1/4

View attachment 268795

1950s Dobbs Homburg Black 7 1/4

5 inch crown (4 1/4 to center dent)

2 inch black grosgrain ribbon

2 inch brim to curl with 5/8 matching grosgrain binding

1 3/4 brown sweatband


A real nice 1950s Dobbs Homburg in black. At 7 1/4 This one is a bit too big for me so it will probably be moving along to a new home.

View attachment 268791 View attachment 268796 View attachment 268797 View attachment 268789 View attachment 268792 View attachment 268790 View attachment 268798 View attachment 268799 View attachment 268800
Lovely hat, Joe. Pity it isn't your size, but black homburgs are the hat I find the most when I'm looking for hats. They were either very popular or they where the "sunday hat" to be kept neat and clean and therefore survived (may both).

This Borsalino is a perfect example of Italian hat from the late 40's and early 1950's
View attachment 268825
As new/old stock was bought by the engineer who sold it to me in the Seventies
View attachment 268828
Borsalino Qualità Extra Extra Superiore size 6 1/2 or 60 cm. and this is a true one of its size
View attachment 268829
The felt is very light and therefore bears the wording "Z" on the front of the sweatband, it weighs about 90 grams
View attachment 268830
The felt is very soft and highly malleable, once shaped it stays in place
View attachment 268831
The color is "Condor" and the type "Ecosca". The sweat band is in excellent shape, but the seam is fragile and some stitches have melted as seen in the photo of the paper label.
View attachment 268832
The measurements are as follows. Raw brim at 6 cm., the open crown at 13.5 cm. and the ribbon is of average width cm. 3
View attachment 268833
In this Borsalino the ribbon matches the color of the felt which, in my memory, is rare.
An example of elegance :)
Beautiful hat and an excellent find, Daniele. Nice to bring in a haul of hats every once in a while.

Another disguise, this time is a product of "Cappelleria Cervo" disguised and marked as Borsalino
borsalino-ardilla-1-jpg.268837

This "exchange of favors" occurred when one of the companies ran out of material or time to deliver finished hatsor without a specific type of felt or finish, here the camouflage operation was so fast that the label of the real manufacturer remained

Another remaining stock bought in the Seventies.
borsalino-ardilla-interno-totale-jpg.268843

Borsalino Ardilla size 59 cm
borsalino-ardilla-4-jpg.268838

The felt is light, weighs about 100 grams
borsalino-ardilla-6-jpg.268840

The felt is very soft and highly malleable, finished with a medium-sized fur.
The color is green with a light green ribbon to decorate it.
borsalino-ardilla-2-jpg.268841

The measurements are as follows. Raw brim at 6 cm., The open crown at 13.5 cm. and the ribbon is width cm. 4
borsalino-ardilla-3-jpg.268842

This Borsalino-Cervo is a perfect example of collaboration, rare, in the war between Italian hats producers
Very cool find and nice proof of the collaboration between the two companies. Finish on the hat looks wonderful.
I'd have to say the "real" Borsalino Ecosca is the winner though (and not only because this one is green;)).
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Stetson Excellent Stratoliner in caribou colour. Made under license in Germany in the mid to late fifties. Says size 58 on the label, but actually a size 59 from the measurements. Bound brim at 7cm and crown 11cm at the center dent. I believe it was Mayser that held the German license for Stetson. The bow treatment is slightly different from what is usual for a Stratoliner and also different from another licensed Stratoliner I found a while ago.

stetson-strato-caribou_01-jpg.268984
stetson-strato-caribou_02-jpg.268985
stetson-strato-caribou_03-jpg.268986
stetson-strato-caribou_04-jpg.268987
stetson-strato-caribou_06-jpg.268988
stetson-strato-caribou_07-jpg.268989
stetson-strato-caribou_08-jpg.268990
stetson-strato-caribou_09-jpg.268991
stetson-strato-caribou_10-jpg.268992
stetson-strato-caribou_11-jpg.268993
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
With all the hats I collected there was not a single boater among them. It's not a style I really care for nor am I likely to wear one, and The Netherlands is not exactly a straw hat country. But I can appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into making them and recently I was able to find one in my size (and cheap).
I think it was sold through Luton, England based on the insides, but I'm not sure it was actually manufactured there, based on the label. Not a high end one I think; there's no Bon Ton Ivy sweatband (which is of low quality) and the ribbon is very plain.
I still needed one for the collection and now I have one.
boater_2-jpg.269053
boater_8-jpg.269059
boater_1-jpg.269052
boater_3-jpg.269054
boater_4-jpg.269055
boater_5-jpg.269056
boater_6-jpg.269057
boater_7-jpg.269058
 
Messages
11,718
Stetson Excellent Stratoliner in caribou colour. Made under license in Germany in the mid to late fifties. Says size 58 on the label, but actually a size 59 from the measurements. Bound brim at 7cm and crown 11cm at the center dent. I believe it was Mayser that held the German license for Stetson. The bow treatment is slightly different from what is usual for a Stratoliner and also different from another licensed Stratoliner I found a while ago.

stetson-strato-caribou_01-jpg.268984
stetson-strato-caribou_02-jpg.268985
stetson-strato-caribou_03-jpg.268986
stetson-strato-caribou_04-jpg.268987
stetson-strato-caribou_06-jpg.268988
stetson-strato-caribou_07-jpg.268989
stetson-strato-caribou_08-jpg.268990
stetson-strato-caribou_09-jpg.268991
stetson-strato-caribou_10-jpg.268992
stetson-strato-caribou_11-jpg.268993
Excellent :);)
 
Messages
11,718
Lovely hat, Joe. Pity it isn't your size, but black homburgs are the hat I find the most when I'm looking for hats. They were either very popular or they where the "sunday hat" to be kept neat and clean and therefore survived (may both).

Does seem to be the case as Homburgs go. Black were prob most traditional. Oddly though for me I don’t see as many Homburgs over here as compared with fedoras. Still... three black homburg have found their way to me this year. I have one from Randy That’s a closer fit I need to post soon.
 
Messages
19,427
Location
Funkytown, USA
Stetson Excellent Stratoliner in caribou colour. Made under license in Germany in the mid to late fifties. Says size 58 on the label, but actually a size 59 from the measurements. Bound brim at 7cm and crown 11cm at the center dent. I believe it was Mayser that held the German license for Stetson. The bow treatment is slightly different from what is usual for a Stratoliner and also different from another licensed Stratoliner I found a while ago.

stetson-strato-caribou_01-jpg.268984
stetson-strato-caribou_02-jpg.268985
stetson-strato-caribou_03-jpg.268986
stetson-strato-caribou_04-jpg.268987
stetson-strato-caribou_06-jpg.268988
stetson-strato-caribou_07-jpg.268989
stetson-strato-caribou_08-jpg.268990
stetson-strato-caribou_09-jpg.268991
stetson-strato-caribou_10-jpg.268992
stetson-strato-caribou_11-jpg.268993

Nice looking Strat, Stefan. The ribbon treatment is more Playboy-ish. I like the look.
 

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