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Héctor Fernández

One Too Many
Messages
1,267
Location
Greatest Country, U.S.A.
Back in the day, many men tended to have their particular style chosen, then own a succession of that style in mildly different iterations based on fashion trends. Hatters would make suggestions based on their face shape and stature, but that may have been clever marketing, or maybe a way to help those timid spirits who couldn't make up their mind.
I think we Loungers, modern enthusiasts, have demonstrated pretty well that there is no one style that works for a particular face.
That might not be good. Ruling out Homs and Bowlers could be good for your wallet! [emoji1]
I don't like they way they look on me. They are definitely cool, and I enjoy seen others display them, but it is not my look.

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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,862
Location
Central Texas
No doubt, a very interesting velvet you have there!

We end the presentation of this lucky find with another fairly experimental Barbisio
View attachment 206176
Super Barbisio Extra Lusso size 5 or 57 cm.
View attachment 206177
A magnificent colored felt and the finish is called "velvet", rare enough to be found in Barbisio production
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As well as the shape of the ribbon which is a cord with knot, always of the same felt that surrounds the crown
View attachment 206181
There are still inside the paper badges of the hat in the shop
View attachment 206183
The finishes are different from the other Barbisio of the lot, no lining, but only a sail inside the crown, the "Velvet" stamp printed in front of the sweatband
View attachment 206184
The color of the velor felt is "Primavera" and of course the finish is "Velvet"
View attachment 206186
The measurements are as follows: the brims are 5.8 cm. with pleated finish and sewn with two seams over the brim, the open crown is about 13 cm. and the cord is approximately 0.5 cm with loop
View attachment 206188
This is the end of the Barbisio haul, hope to have more in the next months
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
My thrift store find of the day.

Resistol Beaver 3X

3236b3bf45fa205054ee4fc3d9871d70.plist


I’m generally partial to the Fedora/Trilby lines.. have a handful of caps and recently added my first Homburg. And while a couple of my hats may have had some western cues. I did not have any full on western/cowboy hats. But when I came across this Resistol XXX Beaver in approx my size for a whole 4 dollars... I knew this one had to come along with me.

Well this sure is a whole lot of hat!

163c3d01328d9078d7972bc95bde6e36.plist
28683e01f1c395081642f8f9b5d6fd3c.plist


Rainy day here not the best for getting pictures... but they show well enough to tell me to stick to fedoras. [emoji38]

Best,
Joe

4afd4b838b27ef53a25a943bc424c319.plist
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Great hat. I'm not sure why you're going to retreat into Fedoras.
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
Thanks man.. I will. I find that seems to be the case anytime I get something with a wider brim than I am used to... it seems gigantic.. and then after a bit my smaller brimmed hats look so tiny. LOL

One thing I was a bit surprised about being used to the softer hats... was it’s stiffness. I knew the westerns were a bit more stiff than fedoras and a lot of,that is for utility. But man.. you could whack someone over the head with this thing. LOL

Best,
Joe


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Some are stiffer than others, even of the same brand and general vintage.
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
I found this one while I was out on my bike ride today. Dang, I got to be gettin' out on my bike more.
IMG_9664 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
IMG_9667 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
IMG_9668 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
IMG_9672 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
IMG_9673 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
IMG_9674 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
It was a little rough looking after 20 or 30 years in the coffin
IMG_9708 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
A little steaming and it started to come around.
IMG_9709 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
IMG_9714 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
IMG_9712 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
The watermark is from the steamer spitting on it. It's gone now, but so is the light. 2 1/4" brim, 65 grams.

Have a good one and happy hunting,
Michael
Great catch, Michal!
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
I’ve used this stuff with good results.

They have it on Amazon.
View attachment 201829
In Ermatinger's Scientific Hat Finishing And Renovating, he suggests gum tragacanth for soft felt hats. It can be purchased in chunks, as he did back then, but involves a 3 day process to get it ready.
Leather workers also use it to burnish the cut edges of leather, and you can buy it in a "thick liquid" form from Tandy Leather.
It's thicker than liquid, but thinner than paste.
I don't like to put stiffener on the outside of fur felts. I turn them inside out, then stiffen from the inside. The tragacanth works great for that. With the hat on any block it will easily slip over, you spread the goo evenly with a stencil brush or sponge, then slap it into the felt with the palms of your hands, beating it in until you get a glazed wet look. The outside should still be dry.
It really works well, stiffening the occasional hat you run across that has become too limp for steam alone to bind the fur barbs just enough, and it's pretty well idiot proof, unlike shellac (don't ask me how I know that). Ermatinger only used shellac on stiff hats, or on "board brims" on campaign hats or occasional Westerns at a customer's request. He only used any stiffener on the outside of wool hats, not fur.
 

Hagwood

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,017
Location
Fort Worth, TX

Hagwood

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,017
Location
Fort Worth, TX
In Ermatinger's Scientific Hat Finishing And Renovating, he suggests gum tragacanth for soft felt hats. It can be purchased in chunks, as he did back then, but involves a 3 day process to get it ready.
Leather workers also use it to burnish the cut edges of leather, and you can buy it in a "thick liquid" form from Tandy Leather.
It's thicker than liquid, but thinner than paste.
I don't like to put stiffener on the outside of fur felts. I turn them inside out, then stiffen from the inside. The tragacanth works great for that. With the hat on any block it will easily slip over, you spread the goo evenly with a stencil brush or sponge, then slap it into the felt with the palms of your hands, beating it in until you get a glazed wet look. The outside should still be dry.
It really works well, stiffening the occasional hat you run across that has become too limp for steam alone to bind the fur barbs just enough, and it's pretty well idiot proof, unlike shellac (don't ask me how I know that). Ermatinger only used shellac on stiff hats, or on "board brims" on campaign hats or occasional Westerns at a customer's request. He only used any stiffener on the outside of wool hats, not fur.

Great tip, I'll have to try that.

Thanks.
 

Hagwood

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,017
Location
Fort Worth, TX
I'm pretty excited about this one. Received it a few days ago, but just got it good enough to post.

Disney Capello Twenty. Thanks to Randall @Randall Renshaw for the tip on this one on ebay ! It was pretty dirty and the ribbon badly stained, but the felt is perfect with no moth bites and liner in great condition. The Sweat has a few little cracks, but been treating with Pecard and it looks good. Still working on cleaning the ribbon, I would rather try to save it and leave it original than replace it.

Incredibly soft felt, probably the softest I have. Nice chocolate brown color. Hard to tell indoors, but no daylight for me till the weekend by the time I get home.

Seems it's no later than 1947, as that's when they changed to 'Mr. Disney'. Would be nice to know the age and if it was from the original manufacturer, Crofut and Knapp.

Nice tall crown:

91B9D03B-88CA-44F4-ABB8-35209EB46AF3.jpeg

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CEA843A7-A61B-4533-B077-D9C04992A7C2.jpeg


A0A537B3-7F20-4627-9867-AD985FEEB92D.jpeg

19080AD0-44EC-44E0-AFFE-A8B8B711CE35.jpeg

767CE85B-0AC1-436F-B4E1-C80222376999.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,857
Location
Denmark
I'm pretty excited about this one. Received it a few days ago, but just got it good enough to post.

Disney Capello Twenty. Thanks to Randall @Randall Renshaw for the tip on this one on ebay ! It was pretty dirty and the ribbon badly stained, but the felt is perfect with no moth bites and liner in great condition. The Sweat has a few little cracks, but been treating with Pecard and it looks good. Still working on cleaning the ribbon, I would rather try to save it and leave it original than replace it.

Incredibly soft felt, probably the softest I have. Nice chocolate brown color. Hard to tell indoors, but no daylight for me till the weekend by the time I get home.

Nice tall crown:

View attachment 206319

View attachment 206322

View attachment 206324

View attachment 206321

View attachment 206320


View attachment 206323

View attachment 206325

View attachment 206326
Nice catch, Tim. Looks like you've got it in really nice shape now. Great colour and super looking wide ribbon.

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Messages
11,713
I'm pretty excited about this one. Received it a few days ago, but just got it good enough to post.

Disney Capello Twenty. Thanks to Randall @Randall Renshaw for the tip on this one on ebay ! It was pretty dirty and the ribbon badly stained, but the felt is perfect with no moth bites and liner in great condition. The Sweat has a few little cracks, but been treating with Pecard and it looks good. Still working on cleaning the ribbon, I would rather try to save it and leave it original than replace it.

Incredibly soft felt, probably the softest I have. Nice chocolate brown color. Hard to tell indoors, but no daylight for me till the weekend by the time I get home.

Nice tall crown:

View attachment 206319

View attachment 206322

View attachment 206324

View attachment 206321

View attachment 206320


View attachment 206323

View attachment 206325

View attachment 206326

Wow Tim. That is absolutely gorgeous! Tremendous job cleaning it up. Just wonderful.


Best,
Joe

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Héctor Fernández

One Too Many
Messages
1,267
Location
Greatest Country, U.S.A.
I'm pretty excited about this one. Received it a few days ago, but just got it good enough to post.

Disney Capello Twenty. Thanks to Randall @Randall Renshaw for the tip on this one on ebay ! It was pretty dirty and the ribbon badly stained, but the felt is perfect with no moth bites and liner in great condition. The Sweat has a few little cracks, but been treating with Pecard and it looks good. Still working on cleaning the ribbon, I would rather try to save it and leave it original than replace it.

Incredibly soft felt, probably the softest I have. Nice chocolate brown color. Hard to tell indoors, but no daylight for me till the weekend by the time I get home.

Nice tall crown:

View attachment 206319

View attachment 206322

View attachment 206324

View attachment 206321

View attachment 206320


View attachment 206323

View attachment 206325

View attachment 206326
Very nice Tim! Great addition to your collection. [emoji106][emoji106]

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Messages
11,713
Just in time for HAT Day.... this one arrived on the doorstep this morning!

Cavanagh Equestrian Derby.

2c7d7f62e089f44b00257daf59c59d4e.plist


644afc6b72b1ebcc8668ce4dd8ffd345.plist
d63d2a455f22b602261a7fbd11a73730.plist


What is an equestrian derby as opposed to I guess a dress derby was the question I had... here was what Alan had to say

An equestrian derby is reinforced for the rigors of riding - a stylish safety helmet/derby hybrid. The laced sweatband was a common feature on this style of derby. This Cavanagh liner was in use post-WWII - early 1950s, after the era of popularity for the derby/bowler and a little before the style would be revived in the late 1950s - 1960s, though Cavanagh was a champion of conservative styling and might have offered a derby well past its fashion prime. My guess leans to a riding hat. You will know when you have it in hand from the weight and hard hat qualities. Look forward to your report.

ps: the factory label behind the sweat will help to confirm the era of manufacture and perhaps purpose.

7ddc293d5a934c622c086f440b2b5142.plist
a164f3a69b7d4e6b4fe7b68517e83ae7.plist


I can confirm it’s “hard hat” qualities... it is definitely very helmet like in how stiff it is. Heavier than a dress hat.. but not anything terrible.

I do not know if the reinforcement is a process of extremely stiffening the felt or if the felt is blown onto some type of under structure.

I guess the lacing on the widened sweat band is to tighten it to fit your head better for riding

Under the liner is this manufacturer tag which states 7 1/4 though it fits exactly as a 7. I am guessing they use a thicker sweat as part of impact protection.

4bf6425143600bec24d9fbecaacc3972.plist


Upon arrival I gave it a very heavy brushing which released a big cloud of what I would imagine about a half century of dirt and dust.

I also dislodged from around the sweat band this small piece of copper wire which I am guessing is part of the reeding.. I say dislodged... however it was only removed from the hat when it implanted into my finger... hopefully no tetanus!

cfd40f03586a986076472c44080fb390.plist


This hat does appear it was used for its intended purposes as there are scuffing marks on the crown and brim... and from what I see more so in the photos what appears to be red clay on the front brim

dcbc0af411e4c6b38ed6a0a34e7f0dd9.plist
1655b8c1b44b11a368476b3cbcabb68b.plist
a91161523ee7f1cb4e57931eb4ab9a30.plist


After having seen the bowler/derby hats posted by some of you here... when I saw this one at a great price I figured I would give it a go. It definitely scratched that itch for me.

1b66079d7d2ca1099a59c42faeca59a4.plist
7546486e6fedebe0007ce8196aed8649.plist
df959672b72cef64fb612e81a22d36b6.plist


Happy HAT Day!!


Best,
Joe

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