My New Bespoke Gray Flannels - Pictures! - What Do You Think?

[Rudie]

Here's my newest acquisition. Trousers from a mid-gray 17oz. flannel by J. & J. Minnis. Very expensive cloth, but looks marvelous and has a wonderful hand. You won't believe how soft and light it feels when you wear it. The cut is pretty much copied from 1942 dated American trousers, except that I opted for a button fly instead of a zip fly.

Fishtail back, Hollywood waist, drop belt loops, outside suspender buttons, outward pleats, 4.5cm cuffs

Two back pockets, one buttoned

Horn buttons

J. & J. Minnis tag

Front view. Waist is exactly at navel height.

Back view

Side view worn with belt.

Side view worn with suspenders. Note how much better they drape when they hang from the shoulders instead of the waist.

Please let me know what you think.

 

[Mr slick]

Very nice trousers Rudie... how long did you have to wait for them to be made?

 

[Rudie]

Thank you. Eight weeks, two fittings after commissioning them.

 

[Oldsarge]

Most satisfactory, old man. Will you be wearing a navy blazer over them?

 

[Rudie]

No, for a navy blazer I prefer white or cream. I'll most likely wear it with my 30s Halfbelt leather jacket or a tweed jacket.

 

[Mario]

Sweet! From Nicola again? Guess I'll have to order a pair soon (yes, I know she upped the prices)...

 

[Oldsarge]

With tweed? Definitely!

 

[Rudie]

Mario, she's getting better nailing the vintage styles with every pair I commission. I think this time she got the bottom design right. I paid the old price because I had commissioned them still in August, but I think the raise is moderate and it's still worth it. Might be different with the standard customer but because of the different fit and special details I want I wonder if she makes any profit at all from me. I believe she spends considerably more time with my trousers than with most other's. I think it's more that she enjoys learning new stuff and honing her skills.

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Beautiful trousers. Interested to know why you opted for belt loops. They drape so much better with braces/suspenders. The waist would be much cleaner without the loops.

 

[Rudie]

Well, the vintage originals had both suspender buttons and belt loops, too. And I think it goes well with this style. These trousers will look good with a short sleeved loop-collar shirt on a sunny spring day as well as with a tweed or leather jacket in fall and winter. I wouldn't want to wear suspenders with a short sleeved shirt. I guess it makes the trousers just much more versatile.

The next trousers I have in mind will be from a 19oz. Thornproof Donegal tweed. I don't think these are going to have have belt loops.

 

[Annixter]

Very sharp looking trousers. You are probably correct in thinking she doesn't make much of a profit considering the time she puts into them, but, speaking for myself in other fields, it's a delight to work on unique projects that push one's craftsmanship to another level than the every-day grind demands. What's next on the bespoke list?

 

[Mario]

Mario, she's getting better nailing the vintage styles with every pair I commission. I think this time she got the bottom design right. I paid the old price because I had commissioned them still in August, but I think the raise is moderate and it's still worth it. Might be different with the standard customer but because of the different fit and special details I want I wonder if she makes any profit at all from me. I believe she spends considerably more time with my trousers than with most other's. I think it's more that she enjoys learning new stuff and honing her skills.

When I talked to her I told her about all the features I'd wand and thought that those would add up to a whole lot of extra cash but she told me that the price stays the same...

You really need to tell me about this cloth you bought!

 

[Rudie]

Which one, the flannel or the Donegal?

 

[Shangas]

Very smart! I prefer it when suspenders button on the inside instead of the outside, but otherwise, that looks great.

 

[Mario]

Which one, the flannel or the Donegal?

Especially the flannel. I looked at some of Nicola's samples and found them far too light weighted.

Come to think of it, I'd also be interested in Donegal...

 

[Wolfmanjack]

The next trousers I have in mind will be from a 19oz. Thornproof Donegal tweed. I don't think these are going to have have belt loops.

I highly recommend the thornproof Donegal tweed. I have a three-piece "country" suit in this fabric. It will come out of storage in a few weeks. Ahem, I hope it still fits, I put on a few pounds this summer.

 

[Tomasso]

The waistband is much too busy for my taste. Aesthetics aside, I wouldn't ask my trousers to pull double duty (belt and braces) as my braces trousers are not cut nearly as close to the waist as my belt trousers so wearing a belt with them (if they had loops) would be problematic. I have a few pieces in that cloth and it is lovely though I can't wear it when the temps rise above 60(F) or so.

 

[Rudie]

J. & J. Minnis makes one of the finest flannels in the world. Too bad they don't sell cream coloured flannel. Mine is pattern 0317. You can get it through Nicola for 150 Euro per meter. If you buy it directly at Huddersfield Fine Worsteds it's only £84. Before they raised their prices a little while ago it was £74 I think. http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=jjm&c=7&p=2 I still got a better deal at £60 because I bought it through a guy who used to sell small lengths.

The Donegal is a Porter & Harding Thornproof Tweed (pattern 62015). http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections.html?cs=ph I'm not sure if they sell cut lengths to the individual public. I got it through the same seller as the flannel. If you let Nicola order it it's very likely going to be around 150 Euros per meter as well, as she doesn't order directly from the mills but from an agent.

 

[Rudie]

Hey A.C., in case you failed to notice, the trousers don't have a waistband.

 

[Mario]

Of course they don't have cream coloured flannels...which is exactly the colour I'm after...