My New Bespoke Gray Flannels - Pictures! - What Do You Think?

[Tomasso]

What does Nicola charge for CMT?

 

[Rudie]

I guess your only chance for premium quality cream coloured flannel is either lightweight (Holland & Sherry have 10oz. or something like that) or having a mill weave it specially for you. You'd have to commission at least 60 meters, though. I'm not sure how high the demand is, but you could ask people here or at London Lounge who would be interested. If you manage to get enough people to order this should make for a very good price because there's no middle man. Maybe Pendleton still make cream coloured flannel in a heavier weight?

 

[Rudie]

What does Nicola charge for CMT?

What's CMT?

 

[Tomasso]

What's CMT?

When a customer supplies their 'own goods' the service the tailor provides in making up the garment is called CMT (Cut Make Trim).

 

[Tomasso]

Hey A.C., in case you failed to notice, the trousers don't have a waistband.

Then what do you call that band of fabric sewn to the waist?

 

[Rudie]

Thanks. I'm sure it's called differently in Germany, though I don't know how.

Actually, it's ridiculously cheap considering she does full bespoke (No hand stitching, though. But you wouldn't expect that for the price, I'm sure.). She just raised her price to 140 Euros.

 

[Rudie]

Well, if the waistband is the lining inside the trousers I don't see how it could be much too busy for your taste. There aren't even suspender buttons there. All that stuff is on the outside.

 

[Tomasso]

Actually, it's ridiculously cheap considering she does full bespoke (No hand stitching, though. But you wouldn't expect that for the price, I'm sure.). She just raised her price to 140 Euros.

I know an excellent trouser maker in NYC who charges around 85 € for CMT. He works out of his home which keeps overhead down.

 

[Rudie]

She has a very small workroom, no fancy stuff but a low rent. But even so, I think her prices are very reasonable. The trouser maker you know must crank 'em out at lightning speed to make any profit, even working from his home.

 

[Tomasso]

Well, if the waistband is the lining inside the trousers I don't see how it could be much too busy for your taste. There aren't even suspender buttons there. All that stuff is on the outside.

Funny thing Rudie, I actually paused for a moment before typing the word band thinking that there may be a pedant out there who would take me to task and here you are, Well Done! :eusa_clap I'll just take it as your tacit agreement to the points I brought up about the practicality of the belt/braces combo setup.

 

[budrichard]

Very very nice!
I would eliminate the belt loops on your next pair as already discussed, I found out many years ago that hanging from the shoulders was much better for both wear and fit.
I would consider eliminating the rear pockets as no one really carries anything in them anymore. They are not present on my bespoke suits or pants. I don't carry a wallet but cards/ID in a rubber band with bills folded simply in either a front pant pocket or jacket pocket.-Dick

 

[Rudie]

Thanks.

I have lots of trousers without belt loops. But I find myself wearing trousers with a belt instead of suspenders quite regularly. If belts were good enough for Fred Astaire they are certainly good enough for me as well.

Regarding the rear pockets: As long as I can remember I dislike the look of trousers with no rear pockets, so I wouldn't even consider eliminating them. For me they have only aesthetic value, I'd never carry my wallet in my rear pockets.

 

[Rudie]

Today was the first day that I wore the trousers except for the pictures. The fabric is incredibly comfortable. These are my new favorites. Everybody who doesn't have woolen flannels yet go get some!

 

[Orgetorix]

Looks good! They need a bit more shaping with the iron to account for your prominent calves, but overall the pattern looks pretty good.

 

[KILO NOVEMBER]

I'm not nobody

Very very nice!.
I would consider eliminating the rear pockets as no one really carries anything in them anymore.

I carry a wallet in my right rear pocket and a key case in the left. I am not nobody.

 

[Tommy]

I like the heavier flannel weights, I am tired of being 'sold' super thin weights. I don't like the way they feel, or look on me. I think dress trousers should have an element of form and weightiness to them. Much of today's thinking is I think based on keeping cost down by using as little fabric as possible by selling the idea of "coolness". But the thinness of typical dress trousers today seem to contribute to a tendency for trousers to accentuate the features of the individual underneath, or they just hang formlessly on the person. They lack the substance to establish their own identity.

I like those trousers Rudie, and would likely buy some myself, if they didn't have to be bespoked.

 

[Rudie]

Hehe KILO, you certainly do look like somebody.

Tommy, bespoke is a good thing! You get just what you want, your design in a better fit. I think 240 Euros is a very competitive price for bespoke trousers made from one of the best and most expensive flannels in the world today. With the proper care these are good for the next 20 years or so and they will never go out of style because they already are! And on top of that you support local craftsmen. If you go for less expensive fabric or strike a good deal on cloth you could get bespoke trousers for even less.

 

[LoveMyHats2]

Those are really sharp I wish I had a few pair!

I have had some pants made, not to the vintage appearance of your pants, but wider than normal legs, nice material pants. I think having clothing made for a person, fitting them well, does make a very big difference in how they look being worn.

 

[LoveMyHats2]

Very very nice!
I would eliminate the belt loops on your next pair as already discussed, I found out many years ago that hanging from the shoulders was much better for both wear and fit.
I would consider eliminating the rear pockets as no one really carries anything in them anymore. They are not present on my bespoke suits or pants. I don't carry a wallet but cards/ID in a rubber band with bills folded simply in either a front pant pocket or jacket pocket.-Dick

I think the rear pockets are in to stay, (my opinion) I also carry a wallet, and at times other items in my back pockets. The front pocket may at times have a money clip or other small items, but the back pocket is always going to carry a wallet unless I use my inner coat pocket sized wallet which is a rarity.

 

[Bugsy]

Here's my newest acquisition. Trousers from a mid-gray 17oz. flannel by J. & J. Minnis. Very expensive cloth, but looks marvelous and has a wonderful hand. You won't believe how soft and light it feels when you wear it. The cut is pretty much copied from 1942 dated American trousers, except that I opted for a button fly instead of a zip fly.

Fishtail back, Hollywood waist, drop belt loops, outside suspender buttons, outward pleats, 4.5cm cuffs

Two back pockets, one buttoned

Horn buttons

J. & J. Minnis tag

Front view. Waist is exactly at navel height.

Back view

Side view worn with belt.

Side view worn with suspenders. Note how much better they drape when they hang from the shoulders instead of the waist.

Please let me know what you think.

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Great trousers that fit perfectly. Congratulations.