M65 Field Jacket in Black - are there any good ones?

[Atticus Finch]

May I also point out that Alpha once supplied M-65s to the U.S. military. Although I've never seen Alpha's civilian version of the M-65 (at least, not that I know of), I have no doubt that it is pretty much the same jacket that they used to sell to the government.

AF

 

[Edward]

There is also an expensive "Black" M-A1 in the William Gibson Black
collection- another easily get-able jacket.


B
T

That I can understand a little given the fit issue, but yeah, it still seems odd.

 

[P5640blouson]

Issue M-65 are not shabby, proof.

To say that the issue M-65 is of poor quality is hardly accurate as everything issued is made to specification, and the specification for the coat, cold weather, field is made to a 70+ page Army specification which covers every bit of the design from every single material used, to the tolerances required for every stitch. And it comes in over 15 sizes- yes over 15 sizes. The contracts are very hard to fill as the specification is pretty stringent. What you get with an issue M-65 is a garment that will suit its intended purpose as stated by the spec. If its featured in the spec then it will most likely be so with the actual issue garment. The spec for the M-65 is MIL-C-43455J , a recent in 1991 specifying the desert camo pattern as the latest. Digital ACU pattern is also available as the Army moved to ACU pattern, but I cannot find the spec for that. Recently, however there are newer systems for clothing, i.e. ecwcs. And with the rapid advancement of of technology in garments, no doubt uniform items will change faster than you can afford to keep up. As a result the desert camo M65 is the last issue version of the M-65 "field jacket". Get the issue one and you'll have the real deal, IMO, the other ones are merely fashion. BTW, in TAXI driver, Deniro is probably sporting the genuine issue garment with unique patches added. The only reason I would want the Real McCoys version was if it offered improved cool look factor without sacrificing any functionality, included the ability to add the arctic cold weather hood, have anti fungal water resistant quapel treated sateen, specification thread, made as strong or stronger than issue, non reflective qualities to guard from detection, liner mount buttons, military spec zipper, my exact size, and so on.

 

[P5640blouson]

Warning, the reason why issue M-65 has bad rap

the reason why issue M-65 has bad rap is because unless you were issued the garment, there is a very high probability that you are getting a government rejected garment that has not passed inspection and which does not meet the spec. This can be said of a lot of surplus available out in the open market. If you want the best, you'll have to join the forces and get issued a first quality garment or buy from some veteran who kept one and wore the other, as most are issued two when they first enlist. Of course issue gear, depending on equipment type for the most part are turned back in for re-use until unserviceable then released as surplus. Remember, there is a very high probability of getting a defective garment when buying surplus, unless there is so much overrun and the Army phases out the garment, in which case they would DRMO out to civilian as the equipment is no longer part of approved gear. Some insight and food for thought...

 

[DutchIndo]

I never thought a thread dedicated to the M-65 would show up this site. Then again I own many variations of the Brit DPM. I guess it makes sense an Aussie or a Brit would want an M-65. Every guy I knew in the 70s had them. I should buy another original issue before they go by way of the Gooney Bird.

 

[Seb Lucas]

To say that the issue M-65 is of poor quality is hardly accurate as everything issued is made to specification, and the specification for the coat, cold weather, field is made to a 70+ page Army specification which covers every bit of the design from every single material used, to the tolerances required for every stitch. And it comes in over 15 sizes- yes over 15 sizes. The contracts are very hard to fill as the specification is pretty stringent. What you get with an issue M-65 is a garment that will suit its intended purpose as stated by the spec. If its featured in the spec then it will most likely be so with the actual issue garment. The spec for the M-65 is MIL-C-43455J , the final revision in 1991 specifying the desert camo pattern as the final version. Digital ACU pattern is not official issue as the Army eventually moved to new systems for clothing. And with the rapid advancement of of technology in garments, no doubt uniform items will change faster than you can afford to keep up. As a result the desert camo M65 is the last issue version of the M-65 "field jacket". Get the issue one and you'll have the real deal, IMO, the other ones are merely fashion. BTW, in TAXI driver, Deniro is probably sporting the genuine issue garment with unique patches added. The only reason I would want the Real McCoys version was if it offered improved cool look factor without sacrificing any functionality, included the ability to add the arctic cold weather hood, have anti fungal water resistant quapel treated sateen, specification thread, made as strong or stronger than issue, non reflective qualities to guard from detection, liner mount buttons, military spec zipper, my exact size, and so on.

I don't like the look of the olive versions - even if they were issued that way. Travis Bickle is not one of my style heros, besides, I already have several Australian army versions in olive, which are fine for camping, etc but don't appeal much otherwise. I want a black one. I wouldn't call it "merely fashion" as that's a dismissive and fairly cheap line - but I know where you're coming from. I just want a well made Black M65 jacket that will wear well for several years.

So what it seems to be coming down to is Propper Int or Alpha?

 

[P5640blouson]

Functional fashion

I should have said functional fashion is more like it when it comes to those 4 to 700 dollar M-65s. If I did not have two of the real deal I would be searching for the proper sized Real McCoys or that expensive black one. There could be a lot said for those expensive ones as they are intended to be functional but aesthetically improved versions of the military garment. For $100, the Alpha is probably very exactly close to the issue ones but unfortunately Alpha makes them overseas now and I am not sure what that means in terms of materials. The Real McCoys is made in Japan and that black one I don't know where but there are certainly a lot of choices. Even Nike has a seamless version of the M-65 made in high tech materials. The M-65 is getting quite popular.

 

[Doggy Darb]

M-65 Quality

The only reasonable, current production M-65 is Alpha's who, at one point, did produce them under contract. That being said, the jackets they are currently producing are not contract, Mil-Q jackets. They deviate slightly from the issue jacket in that the fabric is somewhat lighter and other construction materials are not as robust. With issue garments, there is always lot variation related to materials, but the materials used now do not always meet the contract specs. Propper's jacket is OK. Their pattern is good, but the fabric, construction, and materials are the reason they cost $50 with a liner included.

I recently retired a 1976 issue M-65 that had been used continuously as a work jacket. The only holes were where the snaps on the pocket flaps had rubbed through the fabric. There were no tears, broken zippers, broken snaps, snapped drawstrings, or broken seams. I did accidentally rip a button out of the one sleeve. It had nearly faded to white. I shopped around for a replacement only to find that there is no jacket on the market today that matches both the pattern and materials.

They are not tailored as they are not designed to be, hence the drawstring and adjustable cuffs etc. It is a combat jacket that was designed to fit the builds of millions of men without consideration of whether or not their build would be flattered.

Generally, military garments are very "regular" when the are issue or purchased at the BX/PX. QA programs were specified and standardized under the Mil-Q-##### requirements well before other industries standardized quality standards such as ISO 9000. Every element of construction was specified and standards existed for everything from thread strength to elastic elongation. Pattern cut variation and sewing are highly specified, which attempts to guarantee that the function and durability of the garment are not compromised by haphazard construction. Very few of the "issue" items that are sold in surplus stores or catalogs were ever in inventory for "issue" to soldiers and sailors. They do not adhere to the quality standards that would make a genuine jacket cost two to three times as much at the exchange.

As with any US military jacket, I suggest trying to find a genuine issue garment; pre-1991. This will be nearly impossible considering you want a black one. On the other hand, if you have not worn a genuine issue jacket before. The Alpha jacket would probably be just fine.

 

[green papaya]

I think BLACK M65 field jacket looks like something Law Enforcement would wear.

I prefer the original OG or maybe desert tan to wear with jeans and casual wear.

 

[ukali1066]

I'm a bit of an M65 nut...I have a genuine issue Nam era Olive green version, Olive green modern copy, Woodland camo genuine issue and modern genuine issue tri-colour desert camo

The geniune army issue are the best in terms of build quality and material, especially the older 1970's OG ones.

I bought an Alpha woodland camo version from a fashion store sale once very cheap....it was made in Egypt I think, it was an Alpha original but must have been made to lesser specs for the fashion market, it just felt cheap compared to my others...got rid of it on ebay very quickly...

Expect to pay about $100 US for a good quality black version from Alpha

I think the difference in material quality comes from the amount of polyester in the mix....more cotton to less polyester is always better

 

[Seb Lucas]

Sounds like Alpha is now mall quality. I may as well forget my quest. Thanks everyone - I'll just get something form Carhart next winter.

 

[Tim P]

How good do you need it to be? I had a black alpha and it was just fine. Looked like an m65 and had all the features and as I dont go rolling about, crawling through mud and under barbed wire etc in civilian clothing it was entirely fit for purpose.
What I will say is that heavy laundering eventually caused it to fade to a not unpleasant charcoal shade.

 

[Mike K.]

[huh] [huh] [huh]
I am a bit curious how the M65 jacket fits in with the overall theme of The Fedora Lounge. After all, we are a group focused primarily on the classic style of the 1930s-40s Golden Era (and to some degree, the preceding decade). The M65 piece of military attire is decidedly more modern.

 

[green papaya]

[huh] [huh] [huh]
I am a bit curious how the M65 jacket fits in with the overall theme of The Fedora Lounge. After all, we are a group focused primarily on the classic style of the 1930s-40s Golden Era (and to some degree, the preceding decade). The M65 piece of military attire is decidedly more modern.

The M65 FIELD JACKET is based on the WWII M43 FIELD JACKET , the style hasnt changed much , the most noticable difference is the zippered collar with a hood inside and a heavy brass zipper instead of buttons.

 

[Corto]

Several years ago I bought a Propper M65 and eventually it ended up in the donation bin for a charity. I didn't like the cut as I recall.

However, I missed it so much, I recently bought an Alpha M65 and I'm incredibly happy with it. Excellent quality, fit, etc. This Fall, I've worn it almost every day. Go with the Alpha.

 

[ukali1066]

The M65 is a design classic....look at the jackets in any high street fashion shop and you'll see many copied/influenced by it's design....and I'd call an item of clothing that's 44 years old vintage...so I think it has a place here

 

[Edward]

Interesting debate. I'm very much not a fan of 60s and later myself, BUT.... While the lounge is primarily focussed upon 30s, 40s and elements of the 50s, it seems to me that we in general are also interested in 'vintage inspired' or reproduction items from a later period. As has been pointed out above, the M-65 is a distinct evolutionary descendant from the M-43 (via M-50 and M-51) - and truth be told, there's really relatively little difference between it and those forebearers.

I've been interested in reading about the M-65 myself recently - not so much as something I'd wear regularly, but as I'm planning to put together a Travis Bickle costume and would prefer to do it on the cheap rather than shell out for the crazily expensive Japanese repros of his jackets!

 

[P5640blouson]

Travis Bickle M-65 color

Travis Bickle M-65 color is historically a Vietnam era OG-107 I believe. But in the movie, they filtered and matted down the colors to make all the bloodshed look less gorey. As a result the on screen color of the M-65 is more of a gray on Travis Bickle. I think this is why the repro from The Real Mccoy's is a custom color on the side of gray for the Taxi M-65.

Regarding issue M-65's, you won't get all the features of the mil garment if buying a fashion repro at any cost. What you will get is a perhaps a wonderful fashion statement and quality tailoring. If you are a stickler for function, you cannot beat the mil approved garment, quarpel treated ncyo ripstop fabric colored and treated for military ops, anti fungal and pathogen resistant, heavy duty thread, regulation nylon buttons, heavy duty brass snaps, made by American labor to standards "close enough for government work!". Now that's genuine!

 

[jack miranda]

I'm with Corto: I bought a black Allpha M-65 last

summer for $80, without lining at a surplus store. Now that it is too cold for an A-2, I wear the M-65 with a sweater, scarf, and beanie almost everyday. Comfortable, functional, looks sharp. Designers crank out high-end replicas at exorbitant prices that cannot hold a candle to this jacket. I expect this Alpha will last at least a decade, maybe more. Let the fashionistas eat cake.

 

[jeep44]

Well, after reading this thread, I bought an issue M65 in OG today at a local antique arms show-it's a 1988-dated one. I have an almost mint M43,but that is too nice to wear ,so this new jacket will be my one to wear.