I don't agree, especially compared to the example pics. for example his 3rd pic is just hanging straight down, no inward curve at all.
yeah and yokes/kidneys help with that. so I disagree with calling them purely decorative.
I can also put a thin wooden board on this back and it would look the same. Look at how the jacket sticks out at shoulder blade height. That doesn't mean that the jacket looks bad, but that's not the shape you can achieve with a seam. If I want a leather jacket that fits like a second skin at the back (superhero costume) and where the distance to the body is the same everywhere, then it doesn't work with buckles, halfbelts or yokes.
spinal curve accomplished in a single panel thru a good pattern and fit
ill concede that you can use a seam to make a curve, but I am basically in agreement with you here, it usually isn't doing much. there may be some quality patterns that use it to good effect.
I think you can but you really need a good pattern that is also well fit to your body. considering few us can do true bespoke, that's tough to find. its also probably a lot more challenging with modern lengths, because you now have to account for the booty curve as well, instead of stopping in the small of the back. I also wouldnt consider either of ton's seamed examples to be the fit youre describing.
Amen and end of discussion. The claim is absurd.Tell a suit tailor that he only does the back seam for cost reasons. I think you'll get tutoring in pattern then
I was thinking the same thing. All suits, including those with terrific cuts and fits, have center seams. There must be a reason, and fabric saving ain't it.
Vansons photos of both jackets bear this out as well. Would’ve been even more apparent if the same guy was in both jackets.
Interesting that you've added this as I recall reading a snippet somewhere on here that folks were unhappy with the center seam when this style was introduced.
What is the “serge” jacket? It looks great!
You've picked up some nice pieces recently. Enjoy.
It's from The Blurred Clothing Co. Here's a link to the original shop. They seem to have some interesting stuff that fits in with the things we like around here, but I couldn't find any previous references on the forum. At second-hand prices there's little risk so I figured I'd give it a try.
Thanks! I've definitely benefitted from all the great knowledge and examples shown here on the forum. Been eagerly awaiting jacket weather and went on a bit of a Buyee buying binge. Time to rein things in, however, so this will likely be it for quite some time.
John Lofgren Monkey Boots Shinki Horsebuttt - $1,136 The classic monkey boot silhouette in an incredibly rich Shinki russet horse leather. 
Grant Stone Diesel Boot Dark Olive Chromexcel - $395 Goodyear welted, Horween Chromexcel, classic good looks. 
Schott 568 Vandals Jacket - $1,250 The classic Perfecto motorcycle jacket, in a very special limited-edition Schott double rider style. 
