How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[torfjord]

Are we really having this discussion all over again? I think it’s been proved that back center seems can impact fit. That illustration Monitor did: case closed.
There are of course cheap jackets where they are used for cost cutting but you can’t equate a back center seem with it.

 

[cbez]

you can find a million examples of both types sitting close or billowing depending on the pattern and how well it fits the person.

Just look at the pictures you posted yourself, all of them jackets fit very lose about the back, giving room and billowing

I don't agree, especially compared to the example pics. for example his 3rd pic is just hanging straight down, no inward curve at all.

You don't have to like seams, but I can actually use them to shape inflexible material. For example, if I want an inwardly curved back that follows the curve of the spine, I can't do that with a single piece.

yeah and yokes/kidneys help with that. so I disagree with calling them purely decorative.

spinal curve accomplished in a single panel thru a good pattern and fit

@Monitor did a really good illustration of how a seam can influence the shape of the back. The key is the shape of the pieces being connected.

If you just connected 2 straight edges together, then yeah it doesn’t do shit lol

you have to also consider that the back panel is not just floating in space. its hanging off a curved shape, being pulled into that shape (if the fit is right) and its attached to the side panels that also give it shape.

another example. I don't think the middle seam is working any miracles, if anything the single piece fits his back better.

 

[MrProper]

spinal curve accomplished in a single panel thru a good pattern and fit

I can also put a thin wooden board on this back and it would look the same. Look at how the jacket sticks out at shoulder blade height. That doesn't mean that the jacket looks bad, but that's not the shape you can achieve with a seam. If I want a leather jacket that fits like a second skin at the back (superhero costume) and where the distance to the body is the same everywhere, then it doesn't work with buckles, halfbelts or yokes.
Tell a suit tailor that he only does the back seam for cost reasons. I think you'll get tutoring in pattern then
But I think we can all agree that you don't need a back seam to make a damn good-looking jacket.

 

[cbez]

yeah you can make a curve as Monitor shows, but with the length of modern jackets, nobody wants a jacket shaped like the left side

now if you have a yoke (Red) and a concave curve from the seam, maybe you're doing something. but if you have a well-fitting jacket, it will already be pulled in that direction.

the shaping of the panel, and the side panels, kidney, yoke, (if present) and the overall fit, will do more to get you the compound S curve that we want.

Edit: However, I have to add that with most leather jackets with back seams that I see in pictures, I believe that the same shape would have worked without seams.

ill concede that you can use a seam to make a curve, but I am basically in agreement with you here, it usually isn't doing much. there may be some quality patterns that use it to good effect.

it's hardly essential to a functional, good looking back panel.

 

[cbez]

If I want a leather jacket that fits like a second skin at the back (superhero costume) and where the distance to the body is the same everywhere, then it doesn't work with buckles, halfbelts or yokes.

I think you can but you really need a good pattern that is also well fit to your body. considering few us can do true bespoke, that's tough to find. its also probably a lot more challenging with modern lengths, because you now have to account for the booty curve as well, instead of stopping in the small of the back. I also wouldnt consider either of ton's seamed examples to be the fit youre describing.

a nice shape on this mulholland even without a yoke or significant kidney panel. not skintight but looks better than most...

ok done with my internet debates for the night, have fun yall

 

[Harris HTM]

I vaguely remember discussing the central back seam with the Aero guys when I visited Gala back in 2016.
With a centre back seam you can achieve a closer fit obviously.

Snapshot below from the description of Boardracer at Aero's old website. I am no pattern specialist thus I trust their view.

 

[jacketjunkie]

Tell a suit tailor that he only does the back seam for cost reasons. I think you'll get tutoring in pattern then

Amen and end of discussion. The claim is absurd.

 

[Will Zach]

Amen and end of discussion. The claim is absurd.

I was thinking the same thing. All suits, including those with terrific cuts and fits, have center seams. There must be a reason, and fabric saving ain't it.

 

[ton312]

Just look at the pictures you posted yourself, all of them jackets fit very lose about the back, giving room and billowing and ofcourse this is picking apples vs whatever, bkt if you want a more accurate comparison, compare fit of Vanson Model B vs Vanson Enfield, identical jacket apart from Enfield having a one-piece back and you will notice the B sits better along the spine. (I would know, I own both of them)

Vansons photos of both jackets bear this out as well. Would’ve been even more apparent if the same guy was in both jackets.

I’ve never understood the objection to this seam.

 

[Biff42]

I vaguely remember discussing the central back seam with the Aero guys when I visited Gala back in 2016.
With a centre back seam you can achieve a closer fit obviously.

Snapshot below from the description of Boardracer at Aero's old website. I am no pattern specialist thus I trust their view.

View attachment 635088

Interesting that you've added this as I recall reading a snippet somewhere on here that folks were unhappy with the center seam when this style was introduced.

Pattern making is a true art.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

That Buyee rabbit hole runs deep:
View attachment 634313

Another 15% off coupon good through Friday (JST) for Mercari > Fashion > Men.

After being teased with jacket weather in the mornings last week, Mother Nature gives a middle finger with an anticipated 110F heat index today. Le sigh. Buyee shipment en route, so hopefully next week offers a reprieve and a chance to wear:

Also snagged this serge cotton with Shinki trimmings jacket:

Had to chuckle at the timing from over in the Johnson Leather thread

Green trucker is my end game jacket, the final boss as my niece says...

 

[Canuck Panda]

The green trucker is awesome!

 

[KBlake]

After being teased with jacket weather in the mornings last week, Mother Nature gives a middle finger with an anticipated 110F heat index today. Le sigh. Buyee shipment en route, so hopefully next week offers a reprieve and a chance to wear:
View attachment 635707

Also snagged this serge cotton with Shinki trimmings jacket:
View attachment 635708

Had to chuckle at the timing from over in the Johnson Leather thread

View attachment 635710

What is the “serge” jacket? It looks great!

 

[IrishStu]

After being teased with jacket weather in the mornings last week, Mother Nature gives a middle finger with an anticipated 110F heat index today. Le sigh. Buyee shipment en route, so hopefully next week offers a reprieve and a chance to wear:
View attachment 635707

Also snagged this serge cotton with Shinki trimmings jacket:
View attachment 635708

Had to chuckle at the timing from over in the Johnson Leather thread

View attachment 635710

You've picked up some nice pieces recently. Enjoy.

 

[tmitchell59]

Just received these 2 wools on the Hottest day of the year! They are cool so that helps.

The cow hair vest is a Peter's and it is like new and big

Red, White and Blue -Chippewa Falls Wisconsin

Old Field and Stream

Peter's Cow hair vest

 

[ton312]

Another. Schott. Rancher. With a big ass center seam right down the back.

 

[cbez]

 

[KBlake]

Rough Wear (extra rough lol)

 

[TheOldFashioned]

What is the “serge” jacket? It looks great!

It's from The Blurred Clothing Co. Here's a link to the original shop. They seem to have some interesting stuff that fits in with the things we like around here, but I couldn't find any previous references on the forum. At second-hand prices there's little risk so I figured I'd give it a try.

You've picked up some nice pieces recently. Enjoy.

Thanks! I've definitely benefitted from all the great knowledge and examples shown here on the forum. Been eagerly awaiting jacket weather and went on a bit of a Buyee buying binge. Time to rein things in, however, so this will likely be it for quite some time.

 

[handymike]

These trousers are quite cool:
https://blurred-clothing.com/collections/bottoms/products/bld134-cord-trousers