How did people in the 40s-50s casually dress? (Without Suits)

[Gabriel]

Hey everybody!

As a highschool student, I would be very interested in casually dressing to school as one would if they were going to school in the 1940s-50s. From what I know, I literally know little to nothing other than suits, fedoras, and hairstyles. As far as I know, people casually came to school with buttoned-up dress shirts that were tucked into their dress pants.

So please, other than attempting to walk into school with an all-out vintage suit, what could I do to dress much more casually for a 40s-50s style outfit? As far as clothing goes, my tops consist of: a few buttoned dress shirts I bought from Old Navy, oxford white dress shirts, a few v-neck dress sweaters, and PLENTY of white tee-shirts.

For pants, I don't really have too much to work with I'm afraid.

In pants I have: 1 pair of tan khakis, 1 grey pair of khakis, some navy blue pair of dress pants, some bashe cargo pants, and an unlimited supply of blue jeans.

If necessary, I'd be willing to go out and buy some more clothes to fit the style (lord knows I could use some more anyway. xD) and would be willing to get some more clothes that more appropriate for the look I'm trying to achieve. Anyway, looking forward to hearing your advice and opinion on the matter.

 

[Shangas]

I think one needs to remember that for a lot of history - suits were considered smart-casual attire. This attitude really didn't change until the postwar-era.

But in the 50s, I imagine stuff like sweaters, waistcoats, shirts, casual trousers, belts and leather shoes would've been considered casualwear. Things hadn't yet degenerated to the "jeans and singlet" 'style' which we have today.

 

[Two Types]

In the UK, the standard 'casual wear' was loose fitting grey flannel trousers, shirt, tie/cravat, sportsjacket and knitted vest (if the weather warranted it). With subtle variations, it was a look shared by all classes and age groups. That look started in the mid 1920s and lasted for about thirty years - surviving for many more years for more mature men.

 

[Hal]

TwoTypes has exactly described what I remember of that period from Britain, and Shangas is also right in his suggestions. Crew-neck pullovers (jumpers, sweaters) were beginning to displace the jacket by 1960.
As an American has asked the question, could some Americans answer it? Those of us from outside the USA might learn something.

 

[Rabbit]

Further down the formality ladder, below flannels and sportsjacket with cravat, would be 1930s-50s sportswear consisting of, again, high-waisted and wide-legged flannels or other slacks of the same cut - those are really essential - and something like a sports shirt, polo shirt or even a plain tee-shirt plus bandana, adding a waist-length wool or cotton jacket or knitwear in lieu of the sportsjacket/ odd jacket.

If you want to avoid a tailored jacket, a short zippered or buttoned jacket like that would fit the era, provided you're wearing high-waisted trousers and proper shoes with it.

The high waist and comfortable fit of trousers remained throughout the fifties. In the sixties, trousers became slimmer and, as the decade went on, gradually descended to a lower rise although nowhere near the extremely low rise we have today.


Some illustrations of workwear and summer sportswear 1930s-50s:

The suede jackets could just as well be wool or cotton jackets for your purpose. Some of these photos are American, others continental European. I think that the waist-length suede, wool or cotton jackets were especially popular in the U.S., although we do see them in photos from Europe, too.

Typical summer sportswear with slacks, belt, polo and neckerchief:

Same with sportshirt (on the right):

A couple of waist-length suede jackets:

The waist-legth jackets below look like wool to me:

 

[Rabbit]

France:

Leather waist-length jackets:

 

[Fading Fast]

Gabriel, a good way to see some examples of what US kids wore to high school in the late '50s is to watch episodes of "Father Knows Best," as the son on the show, Bud, was a high-school kid (the show was shot in the late '50s) and he wears a lot of clothes that I believe were worn by high school kids in the 50s.

He wears everything from suits (normally only to big events) and sport coats with ties to jeans with t-shirts (not for going to school). But you will also see him wearing chinos and button down shirts with or without sweaters or sweater vests to school. If you want to use some of that for inspiration, I think you could find some outfits that don't look costume-like today, but would echo the '50s.

For example, your oxford cloth button down shirt, with a pair of your tan chinos and a sweater vest (and maybe invest in a pair of tan-suede bucks) would be right out of the '50s but look fine for today.

Good luck it's nice to see that you are trying.

 

[Rabbit]

You can find vintage orginals for lower prices than new clothes if you're patient. 1940s/50s trousers are not that difficult to find; waist-length jackets don't turn up every day, but you can still find them. Even WWII and post-WWII military garments which can often be found for very low prices might work for you. I have a WWII navy wool shirt of the USN that was converted for civilian use by cutting the length to the height of the waist and adding a knitted waistband. The drab olive WWII U.S. Army trousers and the airforceblue post-WWII USAF trousers make passable trousers for everyday use in my opinion. They're extremely durable, too, have a very nice cut and razor-sharp trouser creases. I think of them as an alternative to jeans.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Most stuff has already been mentioned. I am a big fan of "vintage casual". Looking at the stuff you already own I would say the next step is a Tweed Jacket and some high waisted wool trousers. Maybe grey flannels or other high waisted trousers in a rather neutral color (dark brown, navy) which makes them easy to combine.
Tweed jacket from the fifties should be rather inexpensive since most collectors prefer earlier decades at the moment. Alternativly you could buy second hand Ralph Lauren on ebay. Both is cheaper and better (!) than going to a store and get some lame 100% polyester suits.

There is a thread about college wardrobe which you will like too. Just don't hurry. You'll get better deals if you are patient and regulary watch ebay for while.

 

[esteban68]

Great photos Rabbit!

 

[Rabbit]

Don't thank me, esteban. The pics with watermark are courtesy of Dinerman; many of the workwear photos are from the Vintage Workwear thread. The two illustrations are from the Esquire thread.
You'll also find a few more workwear- and sportswear-related photos in the Non-Shorpy thread.

From the Non-Shorpy thread:

 

[resortes805]

Hey man, welcome to the lounge!

A few things to keep in mind:

The first thing is that you really need to dress to match your attitude and interests. Alot of the pictures posted, while many are from the 1940s have a very 1930sesque, US great depression feel about them, very far removed from the excitement and hope that many felt in the postwar years, which I think is what you are getting at with a request for 1940s-1950s style clothing. In other words, the clothes should conform to you, and not the other way around. When I was in high school, I dressed what we called old school: loose fitting khakis with button-up Buffalo hunter plaid shirts and converse chuck taylors. At the time, we didn't self-consciously know these were late 50s, early 60s inspired looks, we just thought it looked cool, classic, and paid homage to the older guys in our neighborhood.

The second thing is that while high school can be a very costume-y time for many, you may wish to take it as a time to start crafting your look. My own daily style (some 15 years later) is largely derivative from looks I began playing with when I was your age.

I'll pop back in later today with some more concrete tips.

 

[Benny Holiday]

Schools here in Sydney tend to be focused on enforcing the wearing of the relevant school uniform, BUT, some years ago I had a buddy in the Rockabilly scene who had his own neat look going that I always thought would've been a great vintage-style look for high school. Being of Chilean extraction, he often wore a zoot suit for a night out, but for every day wear he wore a button-front sports shirt, sometimes plaid, with either tan or navy blue pleated chinos that he had pegged to about 15-16 inches at the ankles, white socks, and either gloss-polished burgundy loafers or white bucks. He always looked cool and sharp.

 

[Shangas]

From the Non-Shorpy thread:

This is the kinda thing I imagine when people talk about 'street-casual attire' back in the G.E. Honestly, not too different from what most people would wear today.

 

[Stanley Doble]

It could vary quite a bit. For example jeans or dungarees were forbidden at most schools, but in rural areas especially the poverty stricken ones, the students might have nothing else to wear but jeans or bib overalls.

In Europe I understand that dungarees or work pants, turtleneck sweater and leather jacket was the uniform of the student radical, copied from the working man's everyday clothes. This look would not have passed the eagle eye of an American high school teacher.

 

[AdeeC]

From "The Grizzly" thread. These Grizzlies appeared to be popular casual jackets in the 30's/40's with mostly the younger set in the USA. Will work well with Denim.

 

[Seb Lucas]

It could vary quite a bit. For example jeans or dungarees were forbidden at most schools, but in rural areas especially the poverty stricken ones, the students might have nothing else to wear but jeans or bib overalls.

In Europe I understand that dungarees or work pants, turtleneck sweater and leather jacket was the uniform of the student radical, copied from the working man's everyday clothes. This look would not have passed the eagle eye of an American high school teacher.

Yes, the answer to this question would depend a lot on social class, political perspective and location. Some great photos here.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

The grizzly is a bit much considering the rest of his wardrobe.
Do it step for step and don't start with the flashy stuff but the basics. High waisted trousers for example.

resortes805 made some good points and I am curious what he will write next. Listen to him.

 

[HudsonHawk]

This is the kinda thing I imagine when people talk about 'street-casual attire' back in the G.E. Honestly, not too different from what most people would wear today.

This is far, far different than what people in my neck of the woods would call "street casual". What these guys are wearing in the photo would be the dressiest thing many guys own today. And they would almost certainly not tuck their shirts in.

 

[Papperskatt]

This is far, far different than what people in my neck of the woods would call "street casual". What these guys are wearing in the photo would be the dressiest thing many guys own today. And they would almost certainly not tuck their shirts in.

Agreed.