Homburg Nation

[steur]

While I'm at it. Here's a nice one I own, though there could be some dispute wether or not this is a homburg because it has no bound edge and that would, as I understand it, make it a lords hat. It's a Dutch made hat branded Staalmeester by the Nehoefa factory. Short for Nederlandse Hoeden Fabriek (Dutch Hat Factory). Next to nothing can be found on Dutch hatting history, apart from Spoorenberg Top Hats, so if anyone has any information on the subject: I'm all ears.
This one is unlined, 6 cm brim and has stunning felt. I believe mid 50's (the factory was rebuilt after the war). It's founder (well before the war) was J.S. Meuwsen, who owned a hat shop in Amsterdam on the corner of the Leidsestraat and Herengracht. Later hats branded Staalmeester show a dramatic drop in quality unfortunately.

 

[mayserwegener]

Fantastic! I don't have anything on Dutch Felt Hat companies. I don't believe the term Lords Hat was used in Europe (maybe in fashion circles). Actually I have never come across the term Homburg Hat in any pre WWII German or Austrian hat trade publications

 

[Redfokker]

While I'm at it. Here's a nice one I own, though there could be some dispute wether or not this is a homburg because it has no bound edge and that would, as I understand it, make it a lords hat. It's a Dutch made hat branded Staalmeester by the Nehoefa factory. Short for Nederlandse Hoeden Fabriek (Dutch Hat Factory). Next to nothing can be found on Dutch hatting history, apart from Spoorenberg Top Hats, so if anyone has any information on the subject: I'm all ears.
This one is unlined, 6 cm brim and has stunning felt. I believe mid 50's (the factory was rebuilt after the war). It's founder (well before the war) was J.S. Meuwsen, who owned a hat shop in Amsterdam on the corner of the Leidsestraat and Herengracht. Later hats branded Staalmeester show a dramatic drop in quality unfortunately.


View attachment 70961 View attachment 70962 View attachment 70964 View attachment 70965 View attachment 70966 View attachment 70967 View attachment 70968 View attachment 70969

Absolutely beautiful. Very interesting history.

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

Couldnt have been happier to find a homburg in hard to find color combo. Tan with a brown ribbon.

 

[steur]

Thank you gentlemen for the nice comments. Steve is right of course: the term homburg seems to be a name used mostly in America. There is a movie on youtube somewhere in which the spokesperson refers to this type of hat as "Arbeitsgeberhut" (employershat), because it it was worn not by the working class, but by the employers. Only the Germans can come up with a wonderful word like that.

 

[steur]

Couldnt have been happier to find a homburg in hard to find color combo. Tan with a brown ribbon.

That is a beautiful hat and indeed other colours than the greys and occasional brown one are very hard to find. Is the brand name Eiraro? Never heard that one before.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Steur the brand is Tirard a French maker of the hey day of hats.
Castoria (castoro) (beaver) means that this fantastic homburg, even if made in Europe was made in beaver.
Tirard is an excellent factory closed in 1956
Hope you french language is good enough http://www.ville-nogent-le-rotrou.fr/sociales/74-action-humanitaire/358-secours-catholique

 

[mayserwegener]

Couldnt have been happier to find a homburg in hard to find color combo. Tan with a brown ribbon.

Fantastic! Definitely a great color combo.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Fantastic! Definitely a great color combo.

Super +1

 

[steur]

Steur the brand is Tirard a French maker of the hey day of hats.
Castoria (castoro) (beaver) means that this fantastic homburg, even if made in Europe was made in beaver.
Tirard is an excellent factory closed in 1956
Hope you french language is good enough http://www.ville-nogent-le-rotrou.fr/sociales/74-action-humanitaire/358-secours-catholique

Aaah, now that you point it out to me it becomes clear. Tirard I have heard of before. Thanks Daniele. It once took me forever to figure out I had bought a Bronnold hat (I'll be posting that one in the future) because the name on the sweat was also done with lots of swirls and curls. Got me all confused. In the end Steve's website gave me the answer.

 

[sergejvandervreede]

Fantastic! I don't have anything on Dutch Felt Hat companies. I don't believe the term Lords Hat was used in Europe (maybe in fashion circles). Actually I have never come across the term Homburg Hat in any pre WWII German or Austrian hat trade publications

My recently deceased grandfather (95) referred to these as Eden or Anthony Eden hats after the British Prime Minister. I don't think he ever used Homburg or Lords Hat.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-J510FN met Tapatalk

 

[mayserwegener]

My recently deceased grandfather (95) referred to these as Eden or Anthony Eden hats after the British Prime Minister. I don't think he ever used Homburg or Lords Hat.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-J510FN met Tapatalk

Yes that is another fashion connection. Before 1930s most Soft Felt hats had similar Curled Brims. I guess men mostly wore them in formal situations later on as Snap Brim Soft Felts became the casual norm. Also location is a big factor along with color (black being the most formal). In Germany the style is associated with Konrad Adenauer. In Hat Industry terms they are Soft Felt Curled Brim Hats .

 

[steur]

I posted a Dunn&Co hat in the British hatmakers thread earlier and promised to post a T&W Lees hat over here. So here it is. Size 58 with a wider brim (didn't measure it before I sold it on, sorry). Hated to let this one go (too big for me) because it was such a fine hat but it was very useful in that it showed me that not hats are created equal. As I stated in the British Hatmakers thread: T&W Lees made the highest quality hats for other brands and under their own name. I'm guessing late fifties to early sixties for this one. Lees merged into Associated British Hat manufacturers Ltd during the sixties and the name was lost. We shed a single tear.

 

[mayserwegener]

Fantastic! Good to see a British maker!

 

[steur]

Fantastic! Good to see a British maker!

Steve, thanks. I'll be posting about another British maker of interest soon.

 

[Redfokker]

I posted a Dunn&Co hat in the British hatmakers thread earlier and promised to post a T&W Lees hat over here. So here it is. Size 58 with a wider brim (didn't measure it before I sold it on, sorry). Hated to let this one go (too big for me) because it was such a fine hat but it was very useful in that it showed me that not hats are created equal. As I stated in the British Hatmakers thread: T&W Lees made the highest quality hats for other brands and under their own name. I'm guessing late fifties to early sixties for this one. Lees merged into Associated British Hat manufacturers Ltd during the sixties and the name was lost. We shed a single tear.


View attachment 71035 View attachment 71036 View attachment 71037 View attachment 71038 View attachment 71039 View attachment 71040 View attachment 71041

Beautiful and classic. I really like the lines of that brim. This was a treat, thanks Steur!

 

[Redfokker]

Thank you gentlemen for the nice comments. Steve is right of course: the term homburg seems to be a name used mostly in America. There is a movie on youtube somewhere in which the spokesperson refers to this type of hat as "Arbeitsgeberhut" (employershat), because it it was worn not by the working class, but by the employers. Only the Germans can come up with a wonderful word like that.

Of all the different names we have seen for "Homburgs" this one is my favorite! I think we would call it a "Boss Hat" in our neck of the woods. "Arbeitsgeberhut" (employershat) has much more class!

 

[steur]

Of all the different names we have seen for "Homburgs" this one is my favorite! I think we would call it a "Boss Hat" in our neck of the woods. "Arbeitsgeberhut" (employershat) has much more class!

Redfokker, thanks. My pleasure of course. I have been looking which youtube video the term was used in and I found it! It's this one:

. Attention at about 1:45 in. It has been only been viewed 329 times so far.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thank you gentlemen for the nice comments. Steve is right of course: the term homburg seems to be a name used mostly in America. There is a movie on youtube somewhere in which the spokesperson refers to this type of hat as "Arbeitsgeberhut" (employershat), because it it was worn not by the working class, but by the employers. Only the Germans can come up with a wonderful word like that.

The only problem with this is that almost all hats look like Homburgs if you go back to 1920s. You also had lower price point hats that share style.

 

[Dlaniger]

P. & C. Habig Wien "Export Qualität", 59cm, probably late 1950s. This is a NOS from Hut Brömme Nürnberg. Unique color with contrasting band and binding.

Magnificent!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk