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Homburg Nation

Messages
18,449
Location
Nederland
While I'm at it. Here's a nice one I own, though there could be some dispute wether or not this is a homburg because it has no bound edge and that would, as I understand it, make it a lords hat. It's a Dutch made hat branded Staalmeester by the Nehoefa factory. Short for Nederlandse Hoeden Fabriek (Dutch Hat Factory). Next to nothing can be found on Dutch hatting history, apart from Spoorenberg Top Hats, so if anyone has any information on the subject: I'm all ears.
This one is unlined, 6 cm brim and has stunning felt. I believe mid 50's (the factory was rebuilt after the war). It's founder (well before the war) was J.S. Meuwsen, who owned a hat shop in Amsterdam on the corner of the Leidsestraat and Herengracht. Later hats branded Staalmeester show a dramatic drop in quality unfortunately.


staalmeester homburg_1.jpg staalmeester homburg_2.jpg staalmeester homburg_4.jpg staalmeester homburg_5.jpg staalmeester homburg_6.jpg staalmeester homburg_8.jpg 2883.jpg meuwsen 1915.jpg
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
While I'm at it. Here's a nice one I own, though there could be some dispute wether or not this is a homburg because it has no bound edge and that would, as I understand it, make it a lords hat. It's a Dutch made hat branded Staalmeester by the Nehoefa factory. Short for Nederlandse Hoeden Fabriek (Dutch Hat Factory). Next to nothing can be found on Dutch hatting history, apart from Spoorenberg Top Hats, so if anyone has any information on the subject: I'm all ears.
This one is unlined, 6 cm brim and has stunning felt. I believe mid 50's (the factory was rebuilt after the war). It's founder (well before the war) was J.S. Meuwsen, who owned a hat shop in Amsterdam on the corner of the Leidsestraat and Herengracht. Later hats branded Staalmeester show a dramatic drop in quality unfortunately.


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Absolutely beautiful. Very interesting history.
 
Messages
18,449
Location
Nederland
Thank you gentlemen for the nice comments. Steve is right of course: the term homburg seems to be a name used mostly in America. There is a movie on youtube somewhere in which the spokesperson refers to this type of hat as "Arbeitsgeberhut" (employershat), because it it was worn not by the working class, but by the employers. Only the Germans can come up with a wonderful word like that.
 
Messages
18,449
Location
Nederland
Steur the brand is Tirard a French maker of the hey day of hats.
Castoria (castoro) (beaver) means that this fantastic homburg, even if made in Europe was made in beaver.
Tirard is an excellent factory closed in 1956
Hope you french language is good enough ;) http://www.ville-nogent-le-rotrou.fr/sociales/74-action-humanitaire/358-secours-catholique
Aaah, now that you point it out to me it becomes clear. Tirard I have heard of before. Thanks Daniele. It once took me forever to figure out I had bought a Bronnold hat (I'll be posting that one in the future) because the name on the sweat was also done with lots of swirls and curls. Got me all confused. In the end Steve's website gave me the answer.
 

sergejvandervreede

One Too Many
Messages
1,934
Location
NL
Fantastic! I don't have anything on Dutch Felt Hat companies. I don't believe the term Lords Hat was used in Europe (maybe in fashion circles). Actually I have never come across the term Homburg Hat in any pre WWII German or Austrian hat trade publications

My recently deceased grandfather (95) referred to these as Eden or Anthony Eden hats after the British Prime Minister. I don't think he ever used Homburg or Lords Hat.

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Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
My recently deceased grandfather (95) referred to these as Eden or Anthony Eden hats after the British Prime Minister. I don't think he ever used Homburg or Lords Hat.

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Yes that is another fashion connection. Before 1930s most Soft Felt hats had similar Curled Brims. I guess men mostly wore them in formal situations later on as Snap Brim Soft Felts became the casual norm. Also location is a big factor along with color (black being the most formal). In Germany the style is associated with Konrad Adenauer. In Hat Industry terms they are Soft Felt Curled Brim Hats .
 
Messages
18,449
Location
Nederland
I posted a Dunn&Co hat in the British hatmakers thread earlier and promised to post a T&W Lees hat over here. So here it is. Size 58 with a wider brim (didn't measure it before I sold it on, sorry). Hated to let this one go (too big for me) because it was such a fine hat but it was very useful in that it showed me that not hats are created equal. As I stated in the British Hatmakers thread: T&W Lees made the highest quality hats for other brands and under their own name. I'm guessing late fifties to early sixties for this one. Lees merged into Associated British Hat manufacturers Ltd during the sixties and the name was lost. We shed a single tear.


lees homburg 58_1.jpg lees homburg 58_2.jpg lees homburg 58_3.jpg lees homburg 58_4.jpg lees homburg 58_6.jpg lees homburg 58_7.jpg lees homburg 59_3.jpg
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
I posted a Dunn&Co hat in the British hatmakers thread earlier and promised to post a T&W Lees hat over here. So here it is. Size 58 with a wider brim (didn't measure it before I sold it on, sorry). Hated to let this one go (too big for me) because it was such a fine hat but it was very useful in that it showed me that not hats are created equal. As I stated in the British Hatmakers thread: T&W Lees made the highest quality hats for other brands and under their own name. I'm guessing late fifties to early sixties for this one. Lees merged into Associated British Hat manufacturers Ltd during the sixties and the name was lost. We shed a single tear.


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Beautiful and classic. I really like the lines of that brim. This was a treat, thanks Steur!
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Thank you gentlemen for the nice comments. Steve is right of course: the term homburg seems to be a name used mostly in America. There is a movie on youtube somewhere in which the spokesperson refers to this type of hat as "Arbeitsgeberhut" (employershat), because it it was worn not by the working class, but by the employers. Only the Germans can come up with a wonderful word like that.
Of all the different names we have seen for "Homburgs" this one is my favorite! I think we would call it a "Boss Hat" in our neck of the woods. "Arbeitsgeberhut" (employershat) has much more class!
 
Messages
18,449
Location
Nederland
Of all the different names we have seen for "Homburgs" this one is my favorite! I think we would call it a "Boss Hat" in our neck of the woods. "Arbeitsgeberhut" (employershat) has much more class!
Redfokker, thanks. My pleasure of course. I have been looking which youtube video the term was used in and I found it! It's this one:
. Attention at about 1:45 in. It has been only been viewed 329 times so far.
 
Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
Thank you gentlemen for the nice comments. Steve is right of course: the term homburg seems to be a name used mostly in America. There is a movie on youtube somewhere in which the spokesperson refers to this type of hat as "Arbeitsgeberhut" (employershat), because it it was worn not by the working class, but by the employers. Only the Germans can come up with a wonderful word like that.
The only problem with this is that almost all hats look like Homburgs if you go back to 1920s. You also had lower price point hats that share style.
 

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