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Help Finding a Cafe Racer

GregO

One of the Regulars
Messages
258
Location
Delaware
I have or have had a number of cafe racers, and haven't found "the one." I have jackets I ride in, but I'm looking for something currently that will only be casual wear. For reference:

Aero Sonoma racer - too large in the upper back, don't like the way the shoulder gussets make the upper back appear. Brown CXL steer. Keeping it though, as it works well for a riding jacket. And I do recognize that the larger upper back is good for a riding jacket.

Two Aero racers done up in J100 style with straight yoke, no gussets, etc. - both I specified in size 38, but the actual measurements were nearly 2 inches different in key areas such as P2P and shoulders. One was too snug, the other too baggy. I'm not too keen on trying a third time to see if they nail my specs - I'm selling those two jackets for a significant loss.

Aero board racer - way too tight in the shoulders and back. I have an athletic build, and the board racer simply doesn't work for my body type. To get the shoulders to fit, I would have to go with a size that makes the body far too baggy.

DD J100 - upper arm on his pattern is large, and it simply didn't look right on me.

RMC J100 (didn't own, only tried on) - sleeves too short, and they don't do custom.

My priorities are easy wearing (no Horween CXL steer or FQHH for example) with good grain and the ability to develop good patina. And, obviously, good fit. Honestly, I've owned the Vicenza from Aero/Thurston, and I simply don't like the hide. Too uniform in color, and rather uninteresting because it exhibited hardly any grain, even after months of wear. In full disclosure, the Vecenza jacket I owned was an early Vicenza offering (back when the seal looked almost exactly like the russet), so not sure if the Vecenza has changed at all.

Also, I have to be able to specify rayon or cotton sateen for the lining. I'm sick of the grabbiness of cotton drill.

I don't really want to spend more than $1500 or so, but might consider going higher if I can find perfection.

And waiting 2 years for something from JC doesn't really appeal, although I should probably just get on the list and figure what to buy when my name pops up.

Who else should I be looking at? They need to do custom...my larger shoulders, somewhat smaller waist and long arms make off-the-rack options a no-go.

Help.
 
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Messages
17,509
Location
Chicago
I hear you loud and clear. Been through a truck load of CR's and feel the same way. All but given up on the cut. If I do another I think Thedi leathers might be my best bet. I love his style, modern take on classic patterns and the hides look the business. Might be worth a look for you too.
 

BobJ

Practically Family
Messages
609
Location
Coos Bay, OR
This:
97380


Link: https://www.schottnyc.com/products/cowhide-casual-racer-leather-jacket.htm?color=2&catID=8
 

technovox

One Too Many
Messages
1,241
Location
San Francisco
Maybe a Langlitz Crescent in the medium cowhide? Not that I have any experience with Langlitz, but they can do custom.
Or perhaps a Cal Leathers cafe racer?
They also do custom for your price range.
 
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ProteinNerd

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,902
Location
Sydney
I know you have tried Aero but have you tried their CR with the full action back? The difference in excess back leather between the full action back and the shoulder gussets is like night and day.
 

cuchulain

Familiar Face
Messages
95
I think the problem with the cafe racer is we all think we're going to look like this guy:

becksbiker.jpg


But we get the jacket and reality is, we're not David Beckham lol... With a Cafe Racer there is a certain body type that is really a requirement to be able to pull it off, long and lean. Short and stout will just never work with the cut. I'm in decent shape, but at my age, and body dimensions I gave up on the cafe racer, it just isn't going to work.
 

53Effie

A-List Customer
Messages
420
Location
Orygun
I agree with Technovox. Give Langlitz a serious look. They made me a Crescent in goat about a year ago and I am very pleased with it. I have been happy doing business with them.
 

TREEMAN

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,568
Location
USA
One Aero too big in the back, the other too small in the back. You must have that in between back measurement I've heard of. Do you have any pics of you in any of the jackets you mention? Too picky maybe? I know for me , the more I examine the worse it gets.
 

Justhandguns

Practically Family
Messages
780
Location
London
I think the problem with the cafe racer is we all think we're going to look like this guy:

becksbiker.jpg


But we get the jacket and reality is, we're not David Beckham lol... With a Cafe Racer there is a certain body type that is really a requirement to be able to pull it off, long and lean. Short and stout will just never work with the cut. I'm in decent shape, but at my age, and body dimensions I gave up on the cafe racer, it just isn't going to work.


Absolutely good point!!! Hahaha. This particular man can pull it off with anything (or without anything). Black leather with brown shoes, you will be crucified in certain parts of the lounge.

If anyone want a slim silhouette, look at some of the Japanese markers. Or Lewis in the UK, but you'll have to stick with their logo on the chest. Their new Horsehide looks like they can develop a bit more character than the old smooth cowhide.
 
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Doctor Strange

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,252
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
Re the Schott Cowhide Casual Racer that BobJ showed in #5...

I got one of these last year, in black. It's a very nice everyday jacket, but not a proper riding jacket. Soft medium-weight hide, no bi-swing or gussets, no removable liner, and the sleeve zips are purely cosmetic (there's no loop of leather behind them, they don't seal the wrist closure at all).

Somebody with multiple serious moto jackets would not be impressed. I love mine, but then I don't ride. A café racer-style jacket was exactly what I wanted.
 

pawineguy

One Too Many
Messages
1,974
Location
Bucks County, PA
Re the Schott Cowhide Casual Racer that BobJ showed in #5...

I got one of these last year, in black. It's a very nice everyday jacket, but not a proper riding jacket. Soft medium-weight hide, no bi-swing or gussets, no removable liner, and the sleeve zips are purely cosmetic (there's no loop of leather behind them, they don't seal the wrist closure at all).

Somebody with multiple serious moto jackets would not be impressed. I love mine, but then I don't ride. A café racer-style jacket was exactly what I wanted.

I second this, it's a nice jacket for the money, and I owned one also. The leather is perhaps better than expected, but not in the class of other jackets he's owned or is considering.
 

pawineguy

One Too Many
Messages
1,974
Location
Bucks County, PA
I think the problem with the cafe racer is we all think we're going to look like this guy:

But we get the jacket and reality is, we're not David Beckham lol... With a Cafe Racer there is a certain body type that is really a requirement to be able to pull it off, long and lean. Short and stout will just never work with the cut. I'm in decent shape, but at my age, and body dimensions I gave up on the cafe racer, it just isn't going to work.

Wait, I don't look like that???
 
Messages
16,842
GregO, I know you said you wouldn't want anything too heavy but did you give Vanson a thought?
The way my Mod. B fits me is exactly how I'd always envisioned these jackets should fit - snug around the waist & lower torso, just enough room around the chest and comfortable in shoulders. The sleeves are long and quite slim, too, though it's a weird thing as I have noticed that my jacket does seem a bit... different, when I'm looking at the fit pics of other model B jackets. But it might work for you, too? The Comp. Weight stuff would be out of the question of course, but Vanson does seem to be offer some very nice mid-weight hide, in both black and brown. Their Octagon stuff is visually on par with any Horween I've seen.
That Vanson has regularly been getting me compliments, actually! Sadly, exclusively from dudes but still...

And I wear my Phantom 10X better than that fellow up there, in his crummy Belstaff. XD
 

IXL

One Too Many
Messages
1,284
Location
Oklahoma
Mid-weight leather is for pussies. Oh wait, this isn't a Lost Worlds thread: Carry on.

Actually, I,too, was thinking the Model B in the mid-weight could be just what the OP is looking for. Mine is in the competition-weight but has softened considerably from when it was new. I have had several compliments and a few of them even came from real, live, wimenz!
 

GregO

One of the Regulars
Messages
258
Location
Delaware
Thanks everyone. Some thoughts:

Schott - Looked at Schott a few times in the last 5 years or so, and even owned one about 15 years ago. Honestly, I've been spoiled by higher quality leather, and can't go back to Schott.

Vanson - Funny thing, I own 2 Vanson waxed cotton jackets, but no leather. I've only seen their comp weight stuff. Does anyone have firsthand experience with the lighter weight leathers they use?

Langlitz - only seen their heavyweight stuff. I'll look into it.

Himel - Are they worth the $$? Do they have a funky fit? The Kensington looks J100-like. How big are the upper arms on their pattern? Anyone know?

Thedi - Some of their stuff looks interesting. Ballpark price range on their stuff?
 

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