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10,829
Location
vancouver, canada
Yep, I use about the same spacing when hand sewing. I recently purchased sweatbands that are twice as thick as what I normally use and the machine, as set up, will not sew them properly so I've been forced to hand sew them. I've definitely been spoiled.
I have been using both the Sullivan sweats and Tim's. I prefer Tim's as they seem to me to be a bit thicker and more supple and worth the extra few dollars.
 

humanshoes

One Too Many
Messages
1,446
Location
Tennessee
I have been using both the Sullivan sweats and Tim's. I prefer Tim's as they seem to me to be a bit thicker and more supple and worth the extra few dollars.
The new, thicker sweats I purchased came from Sullivan. I like his sweats but my 1107 just won't sew them properly. I suppose I could spend a few hours re-adjusting the machine, but I think it'll be easier just to source thinner sweats.
 
Messages
10,829
Location
vancouver, canada
The new, thicker sweats I purchased came from Sullivan. I like his sweats but my 1107 just won't sew them properly. I suppose I could spend a few hours re-adjusting the machine, but I think it'll be easier just to source thinner sweats.
Tim's seem a bit thicker but I have not put calipers to them. They do seem a bit softer and easier to hand sew than the Sullivans....but that just might be my overactive imagination.
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,786
Location
Central Ohio
I have been doing the baste stitch first but on my next one I will try just tack stitching the sweat in 3 or 4 locations to see how that works....may save me 30 minutes! Don't think I will ever get to the point of wanting to buy the machine and learn the mastery of that......hand sewing will keep me busy and out of trouble....to a degree.
I baste stitch all around. I did the tack stitching for a while but found that the tack method didn't work as well at helping to keep the reed flush against the brim at the opening. Baste stitching all around only takes me a couple of minutes, but worth the extra effort. Everyone has their own way and baste stitching all around works best for me.

When I was doing Roofing I would lay out my roofs by chalking every line. It took me just a little while longer to lay out my roofs but I made up for that extra effort in speed and straight rows when I started nailing down my shingles.

So, after I finish my baste stitching all around and sew in my permanent stitches I end up with my sweat band reeds tight and flush against the brim at the opening.

To add, when sewing in your permanent stitches, keep 'em low. That's also important in keeping your reed flush against the brim.

This is for hand stitching.
 
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Messages
10,829
Location
vancouver, canada
I baste stitch all around. I did the tack stitching for a while but found that the tack method didn't work as well at helping to keep the reed flush against the brim at the opening. Baste stitching all around only takes me a couple of minutes, but worth the extra effort. Everyone has their own way and baste stitching all around works best for me.

When I was doing Roofing I would lay out my roofs by chalking every line. It took me just a little while longer to lay out my roofs but I made up for that extra effort in speed and straight rows when I started nailing down my shingles.

So, after I finish my baste stitching all around and sew in my permanent stitches I end up with my sweat band reeds tight and flush against the brim at the opening.

To add, when sewing in your permanent stitches, keep 'em low. That's also important in keeping your reed flush against the brim.

This is for hand stitching.
My issue is exactly that....... keeping the reed flush and not allowing it to creep up proud of the brim. If I don't get it right with the baste it invariable ends up wrong and I have to begin all over again. It is somewhat of a Duh! moment but also learned that if I get the blocking right and the sweat fits in perfectly all tends to flow smoothly from that. If I don't get it right then I end up fighting the damn thing the entire way and invariably not happy with the end result.
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,786
Location
Central Ohio
Another thing to keep in mind when putting sweatbands together is to cut the reed a little longer than the sweat after it's been cut to fit. The purpose of cutting the reed a little longer than the sweat is to flare it out so that it will sit on the brim. Cut the reed too short, the sweat sinks inside of the crown opening...

Getting a flare on the reed
IMG-20201129-132713309.jpg



Flaring the reed to sit on the brim at the opening.
IMG-20201129-133002837.jpg


I'm getting ready to put this Melton back together
IMG-20201129-125438170.jpg
 
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MagicMan

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
NC
T Jones and Belfastboy, what is this reed and basting stuff y'all are talking about? Do you have some pictures you can post describing these parts and how they are supposed to look, please?
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
No, I chickened out on the brim. The client is not a 'true' Indy fan and was willing to forgo the exactness of the replica. I will attempt it on a cheaper felt before I risk screwing up a good one.


Good call. I’m not a “screen accurate” kind of guy, but on its own merits Indy’s hat is a nice style. I haven’t done the math, but I think I’d need a 6” crown and 3+” brim.

Your first attempt looks very nice to me.
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,786
Location
Central Ohio
T Jones and Belfastboy, what is this reed and basting stuff y'all are talking about? Do you have some pictures you can post describing these parts and how they are supposed to look, please?

If you're hand sewing your sweats:

This is what I call, continuous baste stitching. It's just one piece of thread going all around the reed. It took me about five minutes to baste this sweat into the Melton I'm reworking. I found that this continuous basting works much better for me at keeping my sweat reed flush against the brim at the opening when I go to sew in my permanent stitches. Another little hint, use a different colored thread for your basting stitches since they'll be removed after the permanent stitches are sewn in...
IMG-20201130-070248786.jpg


Keep your basting stitches low, (as well as your permanent stitches too, only just a tad higher up on the crown than your basting stitches).
IMG-20201130-072354457.jpg


This is tack stitching for basting temporary stitches. I use to use this method thinking it was saving me some time but I found that continuous basting was much better at keeping my sweat reed flush against the brim at the opening...
Sweat-Band-1.png
 
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MagicMan

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
NC
Thanks, T Jones.
In the last picture, the white stitching that I see is part of the band construction itself, not where it is sewn to the hat, correct?
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,786
Location
Central Ohio
Thanks, T Jones.
In the last picture, the white stitching that I see is part of the band construction itself, not where it is sewn to the hat, correct?
I think what you see isn't stitching. It's the edge of the sweat itself. I get my sweat bands from Sullivan Hat Company and that's just how his sweats are. Aside from that they're very nice and I have never had the first issue with them.... Plus they're soft and comfortable. So I don't sweat it, so to speak. :)
 
Last edited:
Messages
10,829
Location
vancouver, canada
If you're hand sewing your sweats:

This is what I call, continuous baste stitching. It's just one piece of thread going all around the reed. It took me about five minutes to baste this sweat into the Melton I'm reworking. I found that this continuous basting works much better for me at keeping my sweat reed flush against the brim at the opening when I go to sew in my permanent stitches. Another little hint, use a different colored thread for your basting stitches since they'll be removed after the permanent stitches are sewn in...
IMG-20201130-070248786.jpg


Keep your basting stitches low, (as well as your permanent stitches too, only just a tad higher up on the crown than your basting stitches).
IMG-20201130-072354457.jpg


This is tack stitching for basting temporary stitches. I use to use this method thinking it was saving me some time but I found that continuous basting was much better at keeping my sweat reed flush against the brim at the opening...
Sweat-Band-1.png
Yes, this is exactly what I do for my baste stitching. Except I use pink thread so I don't leave any still in the hat It still takes me about 20-25 minutes including set up for the baste.
 

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