Goatskin Half-Belt. Real Vintage, 1940s? 1950s?

[guygardner]

What did I get? Any guesses as to date or company?

I love this jacket and it was a bit of a surprise after arriving. The seller's measurements were off and the photo he had of the jacket made it seem like a long half belt. It's not. The jacket's lining was replaced, it has no tags, and maybe a replacement zipper (brass talon).

The styling is a bit like the Aero Hercules (Cuffs, collar and piping along front). It has bi-swing shoulders, and half-belt with side adjusters, two lower flap pockets and one zip chest pocket. The leather is grainy goatskin, dry but in decent shape. I see why goatskin has the reputation for longevity and strength.

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[767fo]

Nice jacket

 

[jack miranda]

Nice jacket! Given what you said about the mis-measurements, it looks like a very good fit. You're right: it has a lot of the Sears Hercules features of the 40's-50's about it (piping on the front, cuff construction, side belts). The front pocket flaps look a bit different from many Hercs I've seen, but, I'm no expert. Someone here will nail it down. In the meantime, you scored a good-looking jacket. Thanks for the pics.

 

[Cooperson]

Nice half belt and real vintage fit.

 

[guygardner]

Thanks for the comments!

Hi jack,
I was very happy to find that his measurements were off. I guessed from his chest measurement that it might fit, but his measurements for shoulder to shoulder and sleeve length were off by a few inches, fortunately.

The jacket was stiff as a board when I took it out. I've applied some conditioner and it is beginning to soften up a bit.

 

[seabass]

Great Jacket & Fit
the short bi-swing is is hard to measure for a less know-how seller
I bet that is gonna be real comfy as it softens up.

 

[Deleted member 16736]

Goodwear sells a model very similar to this jacket called the Arcadia. John dates the Arcadia to late 40's. I'd say this jacket is from a similar period.

 

[Dinerman]

May we see close ups of the zippers, especially the main zip, front and back?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Based on what I can see of the main zipper from the blurry photo I'd be guessing early-middle 1950s. Maybe later 50s, dependent upon the zip puller, assuming it's not a replacement.

 

[guygardner]

May we see close ups of the zippers, especially the main zip, front and back?

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It may be a replacement.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The zipper's probably late 50s, at the earliest. I see some dodgy stitch work on the "front" pic. You can ususally tell if there's been a replacement as most people replacing zippers won't be careful to use the old stitch holes when they're stitching in the new one, so you end up with a line of now unused stitch holes running alongside the new thread. Also, the thread used will very often be different to the thread used on the other seams of the jacket.

Nice jacket. I do like the ones with the multi-panel front.

 

[guygardner]

The thread used for the zipper is a different color brown from that used for the seams of the jacket. Looking at the stitching again around the main zipper, it is very messy.

Sorry the photos aren't the best.

 

[guygardner]

Restitching along the main zip

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Chest zipper, possibly replacement but not sure:

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[Baron Kurtz]

The chest one looks original to me. Usually [EDIT, I say usually, I of course mean "often"] when those break, no-one bothers to replace them, just cut off the tracks and keep the pocket zipless …

 

[guygardner]

Any guesses as to the age of the chest zipper?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Hard to tell. They didn't change them much. Stopper teeth might yield information. Are they U-shaped, or a 1-piece stopper that connects to both tracks?

My first guess would be in the late 40s, early 50s range.

 

[guygardner]

It's a one piece square stopper. Thanks.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

what about at the other end of the tracks (the end furthest away from the puller when the chest pocket zip is fully opened)? Sorry, I should have been more specific.

 

[guygardner]

That end is one piece and u shaped with a wide gap between both ends. I'll take some photos later when I have a chance.

 

[guygardner]

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Here it is.