Steven65
New in Town
- Messages
- 45
- Location
- Cape Town, South Africa
It all depends on how much range of motion you want. The armpit gussets allow you to raise your arms without the whole jacket lifting up and the bi-swing helps a lot when reaching forward.I know that gussets have already been discussed at length here on the Lounge but most guys here seem to favor the heavier, stiffer horse or cow hides. I’m wondering about gussets specifically in relation to the lighter, suppler goat leather. I’m currently considering a custom Aero Sheen in goat and have been planning on both shoulder and underarm gussets for maximum range of motion/comfort. I’m wondering, however, if they may not be quite as necessary in the lighter goat as they might be in the heavier hides. Thoughts?
I know that gussets have already been discussed at length here on the Lounge but most guys here seem to favor the heavier, stiffer horse or cow hides. I’m wondering about gussets specifically in relation to the lighter, suppler goat leather. I’m currently considering a custom Aero Sheen in goat and have been planning on both shoulder and underarm gussets for maximum range of motion/comfort. I’m wondering, however, if they may not be quite as necessary in the lighter goat as they might be in the heavier hides. Thoughts?
Whether the gussets are effective or not depends somewhat on the depth of the fold.I know that gussets have already been discussed at length here on the Lounge but most guys here seem to favor the heavier, stiffer horse or cow hides. I’m wondering about gussets specifically in relation to the lighter, suppler goat leather. I’m currently considering a custom Aero Sheen in goat and have been planning on both shoulder and underarm gussets for maximum range of motion/comfort. I’m wondering, however, if they may not be quite as necessary in the lighter goat as they might be in the heavier hides. Thoughts?
Glad to hear of the water repelling properties of the goat. Thanks!
I can't say if gussets will be better or not for your purposes but I do know that goat stretches as well as being more supple than horse or cowhide. Goat is most likely the leather that least requires gussets assuming the jacket is properly fitted. Here is a little bit about goat compared to horse from this maker.I know that gussets have already been discussed at length here on the Lounge but most guys here seem to favor the heavier, stiffer horse or cow hides. I’m wondering about gussets specifically in relation to the lighter, suppler goat leather. I’m currently considering a custom Aero Sheen in goat and have been planning on both shoulder and underarm gussets for maximum range of motion/comfort. I’m wondering, however, if they may not be quite as necessary in the lighter goat as they might be in the heavier hides. Thoughts?
Exactly. I’m hoping that the underarm and shoulder gussets will work in harmony with each other.It all depends on how much range of motion you want. The armpit gussets allow you to raise your arms without the whole jacket lifting up and the bi-swing helps a lot when reaching forward.
It’s also important to factor in the jacket size and pattern as that also contributes to the comfort/range of motion of the jacket. But yes, gussets will still help a lot with goat.
I wouldn’t count myself in the “clean backs”club though I’d be reluctant to put a full action back on the Sheen since it’d be such a deviation from the style. I’m hoping the shoulder/underarm gusset combination will be more subtle yet still effective.There are people here who are obsessed with "clean backs"; I would pay them no attention.
The US Navy's flight jackets, which have a full action back and underarm gussets, have almost always been made out of goat–and this gives amazing range of movement. The 70 year old one I got is at least a size too small for me but still fits perfectly because of them.
Do the underarm gussets help at all with reaching forward or just with lifting your arms vertically?Whether the gussets are effective or not depends somewhat on the depth of the fold.
I don't find the short ones so effective that I would give up the clean back for them. I don't like the full action back. What really works great for me are the underarm gussets.
Right. Part of me wonders if goat gussets are overkill though I guess the military didn’t think so. Thanks for the info link. Interesting that they describe horse as stronger than goat while Aero’s site describes goat as tougher than horse when the same thickness.I can't say if gussets will be better or not for your purposes but I do know that goat stretches as well as being more supple than horse or cowhide. Goat is most likely the leather that least requires gussets assuming the jacket is properly fitted. Here is a little bit about goat compared to horse from this maker.
https://www.avileather.com/horsehide-goatskin-leather-jackets/
My next jacket will be in goat, I'm also eying this leather
That’s a beautiful, rich brown!
I wouldn’t count myself in the “clean backs”club though I’d be reluctant to put a full action back on the Sheen since it’d be such a deviation from the style. I’m hoping the shoulder/underarm gusset combination will be more subtle yet still effective.
Good question. Logically, they should only help the upward movement. I have only two jackets with underarm gussets, but with both I can also stretch forward without problems. And that, although the jackets are rather tight. I assume that this is also due to the high armholes.Do the underarm gussets help at all with reaching forward or just with lifting your arms vertically?
Shoulder gussets have elastic bands between the lining and the jacket. Otherwise, the folds would not return to their original shape.I remember reading on here somewhere that some bi-swing backs have elastic in them. Do Aero's shoulder gussets have any elastic or just extra leather folds?
Shoulder gussets have elastic bands between the lining and the jacket. Otherwise, the folds would not return to their original shape.
Yea I agree. I don’t really like the idea of having elastic in the jacket. Might just go with underarm gussets after all. Combined with the easy wearing goat, I’m thinking it will still be fine...I definitely prefer no gussets in jackets: they look ok, but they seem (to me) to be a repair waiting to happen. On the other hand, I haven't had any noticeable mobility problems in my jackets.
Yea I agree. I don’t really like the idea of having elastic in the jacket. Might just go with underarm gussets after all. Combined with the easy wearing goat, I’m thinking it will still be fine...
What do you need the perfect range of motion for? A sports jacket would probably be more sensible.Yea I agree. I don’t really like the idea of having elastic in the jacket. Might just go with underarm gussets after all. Combined with the easy wearing goat, I’m thinking it will still be fine...