German & Austrian Hutmachers

[mayserwegener]

The first of a bunch of German and Austrian made hats I picked. I didn't make it to seven, like Steve did, but still worthwhile (in fact I can guarantee it).
Echter Rockel Velour in dark grey with some distinct lilac tones to it. Very cool colour which is why it had to come. No label in this one unfortunately, but the liner was glued, so I'm guessing mid to late sixties. Bound brim at 6cm and crown at 11cm at the center dent. Rockel did know how to do velour and this one shows it. Weighs 110 grams.

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Stefan, I missed this Echter Rockel Velour! I really like the color combos and great color! I another fantastic find! By the way I think it's earlier. Rockel switched to glue fairly early (later 1950s).

 

[steur]

Stefan, Wow you made a great haul! It's difficult to find Wegener's from this time period with this type form. Also an added bonus regarding being non liner model.

Stefan, Amazing find! This is a Franz Gober München.

"Dealer, as the company founded in 1902 by Franz Gober Bayerland in Munich, specializing in sports and trachten / costumes hats, which they purchased from various producers and sold via catalog to a wide radius."

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/57-franz-gober-münchen-f-g-m/

This Velour is really fantastic and in great condition. Also the liner and bow design. It's definitely 1930s maybe a bit older. I don't believe F.G.M. produced hats and nothing sticks out where I can identify the maker.

Stefan, Yes this is amazing Velour. JHS were the masters and this is no exception. It has Tracht elements so probably the reason for the vivid green. You weren't kidding regarding your hat hunting success.

Stefan, Wow you made a great haul! It's difficult to find Wegener's from this time period with this type form. Also an added bonus regarding being non liner model.

Stefan, I missed this Echter Rockel Velour! I really like the color combos and great color! I another fantastic find! By the way I think it's earlier. Rockel switched to glue fairly early (later 1950s).

Steve, thanks for the kind words and the additional information. It's not every time I can find hats of this quality. The Hückel really is exceptional. I agree it has lots of trachten elements, but because it lacks the severe taper that trachten hats often have and the green is so dark that it's almost subdued, it's a very wearable hat.

 

[the_imperialist]

Stefan, wonderful haul. I think one can always do with another black velour, especially, as you pointed out, one with shark gills and of such King sized proportions!

 

[steur]

Stefan, wonderful haul. I think one can always do with another black velour, especially, as you pointed out, one with shark gills and of such King sized proportions!

Thank you, Wayne. It's the way it goes: as soon as I spot a good hat I know I don't stand a chance...

 

[Rmccamey]

I have an unlined Mayser in almost the same color and with a virtually identical ribbon and bow.

Percy Donald "Antilope" "Iller", 56 cm possibly mid 1950s. The paper label in the is for whole-seller Valentin Schick so probably sourced (see photo below). The Iller river flows into Ulm so Mayser might be the source. It was common to see fanciful British brand names used in West Germany during this time period. The Felt has a great Chamois finish and is very pliable so easily dry creases. Also has a really nice form and thinner ribbon bow design. This is the 7th and final hat of my recent find.

Open Crown

Now those hats will get your attention!!!

As I was hathunting today I chanced upon this one. Couldn't bring it along, because I was already over my maximum allowed number of hats per customer, it wasn't my size and the colour is quite, errr striking. So not mine, but still of interest.
Hückel made by Tonak for the Spanish market.
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It may look interesting because of its style, a longhair/velour western type of hat by Hückel, but the colour was much more towards a wine-red/burgundy than the more brownish colour you're seeing here. Never saw anything like this one by Hückel before.
As soon as I post the hats I did bring along, you'll understand why this one had to stay there.

Hückel Platin velours backbow in green (yes, green). Size 56 with the raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent, Weighs 114 grams. All pre-war Hückel velour hats are exceptional and I've handled a few, but this one is the best one yet. As a testimony to its quality: it made me buy a deep green hat without hesitation and it landed me in the Adolf Hitlerstrasse of all places.
Wait, what? Let me explain. The hat was sold by Hut-Trescher of Freiburg and in the years 1937 until the end of WWII one of their shops was located in the Adolf Hitlerstrasse. And it says so on the sweatband. So it's quite easy to date: late thirties or maybe early forties. Save for the imprint on the liner flaking off, the hat is in excellent shape.
As an act of defiance I did put a cross-shaped basting stitch in the backbow to make it lie flat. I like it better that way.

It's all about the felt, guys.

 

[mayserwegener]

View attachment 285091 View attachment 285092 I have an unlined Mayser in almost the same color and with a virtually identical ribbon and bow.

Randy, Thank you for the comparison. I think this nails it shut regarding Mayser being the source.

 

[mayserwegener]

Hut Brömme Nürnberg 75th Anniversary (1953), 58.5 cm, mid 1950s. Highly possible this was made by Hückel Weilheim. Really fantastic Chamois Felt that has a very soft hand and easily dry creases. Also a very interesting thin ribbon bow design.

Open Crown

Natural Light

 

[M Hatman]

FGM Bayerland quality "alba" velour in black. Size 57 (but has shrunk somewhat) with the brim at 7cm and the crown 11cm at the center dent. This is a substantial hat in every way and that won me over. Weighs 147 grams. FGM stands for Franz Gober München I believe and I have seen that @Garrett has posted one of these before. I think this one is older though.
Do I need another black velour hat? No, I don't, but if they're as cool as this one and have a 10 sharkgill bow it's impossible to leave it behind. It seems to naturally want an deep center crease, which causes the side to side taper.

WOW, WOW, WOW!!!!!!

 

[steur]

WOW, WOW, WOW!!!!!!

Thanks, Mark. It's finding hats like these that keeps me hunting!

 

[steur]

Hut Brömme Nürnberg 75th Anniversary (1953), 58.5 cm, mid 1950s. Highly possible this was made by Hückel Weilheim. Really fantastic Chamois Felt that has a very soft hand and easily dry creases. Also a very interesting thin ribbon bow design.

Open Crown

Natural Light

It's a nice find, Steve and the subdued ribbon design is a cool touch. Doesn't always have to be elaborate.

 

[mayserwegener]

It's a nice find, Steve and the subdued ribbon design is a cool touch. Doesn't always have to be elaborate.

Stefan, Thank you! I totally agree regarding the bow design.

 

[the_imperialist]

Late 30s Hückel Alpha, made for the French Market

 

[mayserwegener]

Late 30s Hückel Alpha, made for the French Market

Wayne, Fantastic find! It might a bit earlier. You look great in it.

 

[the_imperialist]

Wayne, Fantastic find! It might a bit earlier. You look great in it.

Thanks Steve - I've never dealt with Huckels for the export market, so wasn't 100% sure. But good to know it may be even mid 30s. This one was a lucky find, incorrectly listed as a Mossant (as it came with a Mossant hat box).

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks Steve - I've never dealt with Huckels for the export market, so wasn't 100% sure. But good to know it may be even mid 30s. This one was a lucky find, incorrectly listed as a Mossant (as it came with a Mossant hat box).

Wayne, Because of heavy WWI reparations on exports to Germany and Austria from Czechoslovakia JHS decided to open a factory location in Ratibor, Upper Silesia (see link below). This means post WWI French market hats came from Czechoslovakia up to German occupation of Czechoslovakia. I have no idea if the French stopped imports at that time (1938) but it's highly possible. I just wanted to mention the situation. By the way I haven't been able to find the production capabilities of the Ratibor factory.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/6-johann-hückel´s-söhne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/?do=findComment&comment=961

 

[the_imperialist]

Wayne, Post WWI because of heavy reparations for exports to Germany and Austria from Czechoslovakia JHS decided to open a factory location in Ratibor, Upper Silesia (see link below). This means post WWI French market hats German occupation would have come from Czechoslovakia. I just wanted mention the situation. By the way I haven't been able to find the production capabilities of the Ratibor factory.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/6-johann-hückel´s-söhne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/?do=findComment&comment=961

Thanks Steve - definitely appreciate the insights into the history of the factory. Do you know roughly when such imports would have stopped? I do note that the paper label references the Czechoslovakia origins as per your comment.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks Steve - definitely appreciate the insights into the history of the factory. Do you know roughly when such imports would have stopped? I do note that the paper label references the Czechoslovakia origins as per your comment.

I edited my post. The status would have changed in 1938 from Czechoslovakia to Germany.

 

[mayserwegener]

I edited my post. The status would have changed in 1938 from Czechoslovakia to Germany.

This was an export to Bulgaria and most likely from Novy Jicin. Notice the last photo mentions "Made in Germany" so possibly 1938 or a bit later.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/6-johann-hückel´s-söhne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/?do=findComment&comment=47

Side Note:

Post WWI German, Austrian and Czechoslovakian market hats vary in price point.

Post WWI exports to other countries (America, France, ect) were higher price point hats.

 

[steur]

Late 30s Hückel Alpha, made for the French Market

Great hat and glad that it worked out, Wayne. That one should feel right at home in your collection.

 

[steur]

Haven't seen one like this before and the size was uncertain. Took a chance on it and it worked out.
Wegener Carrera in Biber quality, colour is called Kastell. Zize 56 with the overwelt brim with a double row of stitches at 6cm and crown at 10cm at the front. Likely some beaver content to the felt because of the quality name and a very nice hand to it at least. Quite a pronounced brim curve in the back, while the front is quite flat.
Paul Orlob of Düsseldorf came from a line of furriers, of which there were traditionally quite a few in that city.

This is a picture of Gunther Orlob, Pauls Father I believe, and an associate.