German & Austrian Hutmachers

[Mean Eyed Matt]

On the last pages incredibly great hats of very high quality have been shown.
Many thanks to all of you for posting these treasures!

I can't keep up with them today, this is no Velour, no Hückel,... (@ Steve: I try my best, to get the time next week)
But I'd like to show you the latest acquisition, which is also a bit mysterious:

Grey-blue Lords hat made of wool felt, I'd say. Size 54 cm; 2.5 inch brim; 6 inch open crown.
I think it's pre-war. I can't say the exact age, but would guess 30s?
Not only the felt, but also the other materials (sweatband is thin, "bad" leather) and the workmanship indicate "inferior quality".
The hat has no lining, but maybe one of these small signs was attached at the top.
The manufacturer is unknown to me, but I guess the initials "FRS" on the paper label belong to it.
The overprint (of the hat shop, I think) on the sweatband shows a top hat and says: "Küßnacht" and under it probably "Tell", so that I assume from a Swiss salesman.
In Küssnacht, the legend of William Tell, the Swiss national hero, has its localization...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Tell

Maybe someone has more information or ideas about the hat?

 

[mayserwegener]

JHS , Hat Factory, Neutitshein , September 1920

(Click on Photos to Expand)

The revision of the stamping question in our company makes it necessary to inform the PT clientele that from now on we intend to equip our products with the quality "stamping". We would also like to add that the customer is always free to add your company name under our punch. From the now starting to use punching you find the relevant deductions deeper. In order to avoid disturbances in the realization of the orders given to us, on the other hand, in order to clarify this matter, we request that we inform you as soon as possible of your opinion on this decision.

Sincerely
JHS

Kopfstanze = Die for Crown Liner
Lederstanze = Die for Sweatband

This document shows the time period (1920) when JHS started using the "Standard", "Extra" and "Special" Quality designations.

 

[mayserwegener]

On the last pages incredibly great hats of very high quality have been shown.
Many thanks to all of you for posting these treasures!

I can't keep up with them today, this is no Velour, no Hückel,... (@ Steve: I try my best, to get the time next week)
But I'd like to show you the latest acquisition, which is also a bit mysterious:

Grey-blue Lords hat made of wool felt, I'd say. Size 54 cm; 2.5 inch brim; 6 inch open crown.
I think it's pre-war. I can't say the exact age, but would guess 30s?
Not only the felt, but also the other materials (sweatband is thin, "bad" leather) and the workmanship indicate "inferior quality".
The hat has no lining, but maybe one of these small signs was attached at the top.
The manufacturer is unknown to me, but I guess the initials "FRS" on the paper label belong to it.
The overprint (of the hat shop, I think) on the sweatband shows a top hat and says: "Küßnacht" and under it probably "Tell", so that I assume from a Swiss salesman.
In Küssnacht, the legend of William Tell, the Swiss national hero, has its localization...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Tell

Maybe someone has more information or ideas about the hat?

Matt, Super! I like seeing the older Wool hats. I think you are correct on the dating and it having a Crown Patch. I will see if I can find anything on "FRS". The problem is I misplace or lost my Swiss Hat company information (assuming it's Swiss made). Where did you find it?

Update.

I believe "FRS" is Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden .

They were a well known company. I am not sure if they produced their hats or were sourced.

Update 2.

I actually found the Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden "Tell" mark. My guess is it was made by one of the German Hat Factories (located in what became East Germany post WWII) that produced Wool Soft and Stiff Felt hats up to WWII. It could have also been made by them from sourced (see above) Wool stumps.

Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung (German Hat Maker News), December 15, 1936

 

[steur]

Tokyo Exhibition (1928)

(Click on Photos to Expand)

Great pics, Steve. Looks like it was all about the velour in that exhibition.

 

[steur]

That's a peach Stefan! (sorry I couldn't resist). The thin ribbon is a nice feature, I don't remember seeing this style often in European hats. Love that color.



Wow Garrett! Love everything about this piece. What a wonderful ribbon and color contrast. Very nice. Lust and covet!


The restoration of these old hats is sometimes necessary. Just as it would have been by the original owner decades ago would have done. They didn't think twice of doing some needed maintenance. Or, just go out and spend a few $$ on a new one I suppose. Love the new ribbon treatment.


Extra Extra super cool Steve. Very interesting.

Thanks, Mike. These thin ribbons do show up now and again. Not as often as the mid-ribbon hats though.

 

[steur]

JHS , Hat Factory, Neutitshein , September 1920

(Click on Photos to Expand)

The revision of the stamping question in our company makes it necessary to inform the PT clientele that from now on we intend to equip our products with the quality "stamping". We would also like to add that the customer is always free to add your company name under our punch. From the now starting to use punching you find the relevant deductions deeper. In order to avoid disturbances in the realization of the orders given to us, on the other hand, in order to clarify this matter, we request that we inform you as soon as possible of your opinion on this decision.

Sincerely
JHS

Kopfstanze = Die for Crown Liner
Lederstanze = Die for Sweatband

This document shows the time period (1920) when JHS started using the "Standard", "Extra" and "Special" Quality designations.

Fantastic piece of Hückel history, Steve. No one else but you could have found this, I think.

 

[steur]

Stefan, In my example the Band ribbon was very damaged so I decided to look for a replacement. The replacement Band ribbon I found was a great match but you can see that it's different (mostly aging) than the original Binding ribbon. Bob replicated the original bow design perfectly and was able to somehow fix the shipping damage. In most cases I try preserve all the original parts but I am ok with others making modifications as long as the work is done properly. Bob's work is beyond fantastic.

No argument from me, Steve. I'm not a purist in that sense. For me making a hat wearable and look its best is what counts. If something needs to be replaced to do that, so be it. After all, that is what was done all the time back in the day. So why not now?

 

[mayserwegener]

Great pics, Steve. Looks like it was all about the velour in that exhibition.

Stefan, Yes some really amazing examples. If the 1928 date is correct than some of the images (see hatted man on box, old & new image ) go back farther than I thought (see photo below). I wonder if the suit styles they are wearing fit a 1928 date?

 

[steur]

On the last pages incredibly great hats of very high quality have been shown.
Many thanks to all of you for posting these treasures!

I can't keep up with them today, this is no Velour, no Hückel,... (@ Steve: I try my best, to get the time next week)
But I'd like to show you the latest acquisition, which is also a bit mysterious:

Grey-blue Lords hat made of wool felt, I'd say. Size 54 cm; 2.5 inch brim; 6 inch open crown.
I think it's pre-war. I can't say the exact age, but would guess 30s?
Not only the felt, but also the other materials (sweatband is thin, "bad" leather) and the workmanship indicate "inferior quality".
The hat has no lining, but maybe one of these small signs was attached at the top.
The manufacturer is unknown to me, but I guess the initials "FRS" on the paper label belong to it.
The overprint (of the hat shop, I think) on the sweatband shows a top hat and says: "Küßnacht" and under it probably "Tell", so that I assume from a Swiss salesman.
In Küssnacht, the legend of William Tell, the Swiss national hero, has its localization...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Tell

Maybe someone has more information or ideas about the hat?

I think it's a fantastic hat, Matt. And I'm so glad Steve managed to find additional information about it now. I have one with the same brand, but without any labels. Also a woolfelt hat (backbow). This one:

 

[steur]

Matt, Super! I like seeing the older Wool hats. I think you are correct on the dating and it having a Crown Patch. I will see if I can find anything on "FRS". The problem is I misplace or lost my Swiss Hat company information (assuming it's Swiss made). Where did you find it?

Update.

I believe "FRS" is Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden .

They were a well known company. I am not sure if they produced their hats or were sourced.

Update 2.

I actually found the Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden "Tell" mark. My guess is it was made by one of the German Hat Factories (located in what became East Germany post WWII) that produced Wool Soft and Stiff Felt hats up to WWII. It could have also been made by them from sourced (see above) Wool stumps.

Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung (German Hat Maker News), December 15, 1936

I'm so glad you find this information, Steve! When I posted mine (see posting above), there wasn't enough information in the hat (no labels) to do a proper search. Looking at the mark on the sweatband you can see it does say "Tell" (but only if you know that's what it's supposed to say). I can put that ghost to rest now. Thanks for that!

 

[mayserwegener]

I'm so glad you find this information, Steve! When I posted mine (see posting above), there wasn't enough information in the hat (no labels) to do a proper search. Looking at the mark on the sweatband you can see it does say "Tell" (but only if you know that's what it's supposed to say). I can put that ghost to rest now. Thanks for that!

Stefan, That is great that you have one too! This is a fantastic hat. Did you send me photos?

 

[mayserwegener]

Fantastic piece of Hückel history, Steve. No one else but you could have found this, I think.

Stefan, These latest photos belongs to the Novy Jicin Hat Museum collection. I received much information (documents and photos) on the liner and sweatband dies / stamps post WWI.

 

[steur]

Stefan, That is great that you have one too! This is a fantastic hat. Did you send me photos?

The pictures are in the bunch I sent you, Steve. Because I didn't have a name at the time, I decided to call it "zylinder", so the pictures can be found under that name.

 

[mayserwegener]

The pictures are in the bunch I sent you, Steve. Because I didn't have a name at the time, I decided to call it "zylinder", so the pictures can be found under that name.

Stefan, Thanks! I will make a new post on my website for Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden.

 

[mayserwegener]

JHS "Flexible", "Zephyr", "Special", "Plume", "JHS Trademark" January 30, 1922

(Click on Photo to Expand!)

 

[mayserwegener]

JHS "Superior", March 1930.

(Click on Photo to Expand!)

 

[Garrett]

Anton Peschel Velour from the 70's. Once owned by Alan. Unfortunately, Optimo never sent the original liner or sweatband back to me.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Matt, Super! I like seeing the older Wool hats. I think you are correct on the dating and it having a Crown Patch. I will see if I can find anything on "FRS". The problem is I misplace or lost my Swiss Hat company information (assuming it's Swiss made). Where did you find it?

Update.

I believe "FRS" is Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden .

They were a well known company. I am not sure if they produced their hats or were sourced.

Update 2.

I actually found the Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden "Tell" mark. My guess is it was made by one of the German Hat Factories (located in what became East Germany post WWII) that produced Wool Soft and Stiff Felt hats up to WWII. It could have also been made by them from sourced (see above) Wool stumps.

Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung (German Hat Maker News), December 15, 1936

I think it's a fantastic hat, Matt. And I'm so glad Steve managed to find additional information about it now. I have one with the same brand, but without any labels. Also a woolfelt hat (backbow). This one:
View attachment 153535 View attachment 153536 View attachment 153537 View attachment 153538

Many, many thanks, Steve, for your efforts and the additional information!
That makes sense because I bought the hat from a Saxon dealer.
It's also great, Stefan, that you posted your hat here again.
So it's clear: "Tell" is the brand and "Küßnacht" or "Uri" (at your hat) is the model name - named after swiss places!
Thanks again to both of you!

 

[mayserwegener]

Many, many thanks, Steve, for your efforts and the additional information!
That makes sense because I bought the hat from a Saxon dealer.
It's also great, Stefan, that you posted your hat here again.
So it's clear: "Tell" is the brand and "Küßnacht" or "Uri" (at your hat) is the model name - named after swiss places!
Thanks again to both of you!

Matt, Yes it was great to find the "Tell" mark. FRS must have been a big operation because they have major adverts going way back. I am not sure if they made their own hats. They had so many possible sources in that region.

 

[mayserwegener]

Anton Peschel Velour from the 70's. Once owned by Alan. Unfortunately, Optimo never sent the original liner or sweatband back to me.

Garrett, Fantastic! I remember that one. It's probably from the 1960s maybe late 1950s (if original liner was stitched). My guess early 1960s. A. Peschel Dinkelsbühl went out of bussiness in 1971.