German & Austrian Hutmachers

[Garrett]

Garrett, This is a great hat! Thank you for the photos. Rare early American Market A.P. from just after WWI so no longer Austria but still WWI taxed!

Thanks, Steve. According to the inflation calculator $27 in 1920 would cost $336.69 in 2017. So this must have been a top of the line velour quality.

 

[steur]

Echter Mayser in light grey. Qualität Flaum (which would translate as peach-finish, which is exactly what the felt feels like). Size 60, with the bound brim at a good 6,5cm and the crown 11cm at the pinch. Unusual find in this size. Specially made for A. Breiter, München.

 

[steur]

Anton Peschel Velour circa 1920

Fantastic hats you've been posting, Garret. Pains me though to think they are all in my size.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks, Steve. According to the inflation calculator $27 in 1920 would cost $336.69 in 2017. So this must have been a top of the line velour quality.

Garrett, Yes it would be of the highest quality. The prices were low prior to WWI because the labor costs were much less but they started to go way up during WWI and after because of taxes and tariffs. The American and English makers were not able to match the finest Velours (Central European Hare type and production techniques were very important) that came out of Austria and Germany up to WWII. The French made great Velour but they too imported the finest Austrian (post WWI Czech Velour makers were Austrian/German except Janyška) and German Velours. I am not really sure about Italy. It seems Borsalino started in the later 1930s but not really sure (maybe Daniele knows). I know Panizza started after WWII not sure about the other companies (again maybe Daniele knows). For me (and the top German and Austrian makers) it has to be Wet Brushed + Hare to be Real Velour (see below). During the 1930s there was a move from Manual Wet Brushing to Machine Wet Brushing. Post WWII pretty much only Velours came from Europe (Germany, Austria, Italy, France, Czechoslovakia, ect).

Hair Velour / Real (Echter) Velour / Prime (Prima) Velour Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/216-hair-velour-real-echter-velour-prime-prima-velour-fabrikation-von-damen-und-herren-filzhüten-der-deustchen-hutmacher-zeitung-1933/

 

[mayserwegener]

Echter Mayser in light grey. Qualität Flaum (which would translate as peach-finish, which is exactly what the felt feels like). Size 60, with the bound brim at a good 6,5cm and the crown 11cm at the pinch. Unusual find in this size. Specially made for A. Breiter, München.

Stefan, Super! I really like that thin ribbon bow design. Also great felt finish.

 

[steur]

Stefan, Super! I really like that thin ribbon bow design. Also great felt finish.

Steve, thanks! Nice to find a lighter coloured hat in good condition.

 

[Garrett]

 

[steur]

Gorgeous looking velour. A petting hat for sure!

 

[mayserwegener]

Garrett, I remember that one. Super!

 

[Garrett]

Garrett, I remember that one. Super!

Yes, this one is also a Foulard.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Garrett I have been following your personal hats parade for days, I take this Huckel as an example to tell you that I am amazed at the quality you are showing. Many hats in your "multi-ethnic" collection are made of felt with finishes that are my favorite. Great compliments
I have a question: am I wrong or are some of the ribbons changed? Second question: have some hats been completely restored? I would like to know where you did the work and if you have some pictures before the restoration
Complimenti ancora, sperando la parat di bellezze non finisca

 

[Garrett]

Garrett I have been following your personal hats parade for days, I take this Huckel as an example to tell you that I am amazed at the quality you are showing. Many hats in your "multi-ethnic" collection are made of felt with finishes that are my favorite. Great compliments
I have a question: am I wrong or are some of the ribbons changed? Second question: have some hats been completely restored? I would like to know where you did the work and if you have some pictures before the restoration
Complimenti ancora, sperando la parat di bellezze non finisca

Thank you, Daniele. Some of these hats have been refurbished including blocking, vintage ribbons, sweatbands and liners when necessary. We try to keep original parts when possible. The work was done by Bob Jessee of Black Sheep Hat Works in Bremerton, Washington. Unfortunately, there aren't usually photos of the hats prior to renovation. Here is one example of a before and after photo:

 

[mayserwegener]

Garrett, Bob does fantastic work! I have some of the original hats + plus Bob's work on my site (for example the one you posted above). Bob did this fantastic rescue + restoration for me.

Hch. Klipper Offenbach a. M. "Extra Quality"

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...291-hch-klipper-comp-offenbach-a-m/#entry1790

 

[steur]

Thank you, Daniele. Some of these hats have been refurbished including blocking, vintage ribbons, sweatbands and liners when necessary. We try to keep original parts when possible. The work was done by Bob Jessee of Black Sheep Hat Works in Bremerton, Washington. Unfortunately, there aren't usually photos of the hats prior to renovation. Here is one example of a before and after photo:

Garrett, Bob does fantastic work! I have some of the original hats + plus Bob's work on my site (for example the one you posted above). Bob did this fantastic rescue + restoration for me.

Hch. Klipper Offenbach a. M. "Extra Quality"

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...291-hch-klipper-comp-offenbach-a-m/#entry1790

I think it's fantastic work, but some of the lounge members seem to take any alteration of a hat as a personal insult...

 

[mayserwegener]

I think it's fantastic work, but some of the lounge members seem to take any alteration of a hat as a personal insult...

Stefan, In my example the Band ribbon was very damaged so I decided to look for a replacement. The replacement Band ribbon I found was a great match but you can see that it's different (mostly aging) than the original Binding ribbon. Bob replicated the original bow design perfectly and was able to somehow fix the shipping damage. In most cases I try preserve all the original parts but I am ok with others making modifications as long as the work is done properly. Bob's work is beyond fantastic.

 

[mayserwegener]

Tokyo Exhibition (1928)

(Click on Photos to Expand)

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Garrett, My guess is early 1930s maybe a bit earlier. I am not sure if it's a Foulard. This is the only German market Sigma I have record of so not sure it matches the American Market Sigma Foulard Velours (not even sure these are all same due to inconsistencies, see below). I also have no information how such names were applied for different markets and time periods.

American Market "Sigma Foulard Seal" ("Seal" on Liner but not on paper label)

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hückel´s-söhne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/?view=findpost&p=821

American Market Sigma Foulard (Has non JHS Liner and no "Seal" designation)

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hückel´s-söhne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/?view=findpost&p=603

American Market Sigma Foulard (missing Liner so not sure if it had "Seal")

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hückel´s-söhne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/?view=findpost&p=194

American Market Sigma (not sure how Robert came up with this because no info, looks like Seal Velour)

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hückel´s-söhne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/?view=findpost&p=708

Last year I bought a Hückel Seal Velour, which I wanted to show here for a long time, but I haven't yet added it. I will do that soon. It is - if I remember correctly - also a Sigma and was produced for the German market ( hat shop in Potsdam).

 

[Redfokker]

Echter Mayser in light grey. Qualität Flaum (which would translate as peach-finish, which is exactly what the felt feels like). Size 60, with the bound brim at a good 6,5cm and the crown 11cm at the pinch. Unusual find in this size. Specially made for A. Breiter, München.

That's a peach Stefan! (sorry I couldn't resist). The thin ribbon is a nice feature, I don't remember seeing this style often in European hats. Love that color.

Wow Garrett! Love everything about this piece. What a wonderful ribbon and color contrast. Very nice. Lust and covet!

Thank you, Daniele. Some of these hats have been refurbished including blocking, vintage ribbons, sweatbands and liners when necessary. We try to keep original parts when possible. The work was done by Bob Jessee of Black Sheep Hat Works in Bremerton, Washington. Unfortunately, there aren't usually photos of the hats prior to renovation. Here is one example of a before and after photo:

The restoration of these old hats is sometimes necessary. Just as it would have been by the original owner decades ago would have done. They didn't think twice of doing some needed maintenance. Or, just go out and spend a few $$ on a new one I suppose. Love the new ribbon treatment.

Tokyo Exhibition (1928)
(Click on Photos to Expand)

Extra Extra super cool Steve. Very interesting.

 

[mayserwegener]

Last year I bought a Hückel Seal Velour, which I wanted to show here for a long time, but I haven't yet added it. I will do that soon. It is - if I remember correctly - also a Sigma and was produced for the German market ( hat shop in Potsdam).

Matt, Yes please post when you find to time. Also in the JHS (pre 1940s) thread. Look forward to seeing them. Thanks!

 

[mayserwegener]

Extra Extra super cool Steve. Very interesting.

Mike, Thank you!