German & Austrian Hutmachers

[ManofKent]

Thank you for the detailed report! I think you got a great deal. The bow work actually looks better than most modern production hats. Does it have the "Ein Natuprodukt Handgefertigt in Deutschland" at the front of the sweatband? It was machine blocked so it will take some effort to get rid of the side dents.

There's nothing on the sweatband other than Wegener - nothing to say it's fur felt either (although it is). Supposedly it was made for Tails and the Unexpected, so whether the labelling is the same as for standard production hats I couldn't say. The quality is certainly decent, and better than the current production UK manufactured hats I've handled, but where it's made I couldn't say.

I think the dents will come out with a bit of work - the felt is quite soft, but if they don't I'll settle for it with them. They don't look bad, but (maybe from my limited knowledge of English Homburgs) feel an unnecessary and slightly odd addition.

 

[mayserwegener]

I am pretty sure it was made in Germany. In Germany and Austria they were often worn with side dents. If you go back before WWII they would not be described as Homburg hats (this is an English / American term). They take on more Bowler like elements (stiffer brims and felt) as they become more formal.

 

[Chepstow]

Manof, great hat the new Wegener. The shape looks very nice also the color! A good buy!

 

[mayserwegener]

J. Hückel´s Söhne Pin, very early 1900s or late 1800s. Small but fantastic!

 

[splintercellsz]

Way cool!

 

[Chepstow]

Steve, nice Hückel Pin. I think I have the same but newer!

 

[mayserwegener]

Manfred, Thanks! When you have a chance please post some photos.

Justin, Thanks!

 

[Chepstow]

Here is my Hückel Pin!

 

[mayserwegener]

Manfred, Looks great! Thanks!

 

[esteban68]

Here's a few after pics of my recently found Wegener after I steamed it back to shape, pics are still a little washed out and the actual colour is a little less brown and more olive but it's come out ok I think;

 

[mayserwegener]

Looks great after the heavy steaming and shaping!

 

[Chepstow]

Looks great after the heavy steaming and shaping!

+1

Very very nice!

 

[yttclothing]

Steve I known you said you were interested in these two hats from the picture

50's Homburg

Stitched liner couple of moth bites on the underneath of the brim, then it just looks a bit brown under the grey felt maybe a bit dirty ?

Size 56, US 7

Then this is just a Luckenwalde Hutfabrik hat I believe same size as the homburg a nice felt on this though

Nice hats not my size as usual, but off to NY in a couple of weeks and larger sizes seem more common over there so hope to get some!

 

[ManofKent]

^That's a particularly nice homburg.

I seem to recall reading somewhere that German's statistically have the largest heads of the western world, but I still don't see many 60/61's come up!

 

[yttclothing]

^That's a particularly nice homburg.

I seem to recall reading somewhere that German's statistically have the largest heads of the western world, but I still don't see many 60/61's come up!

I wish I could find some hats in that size ! I get some really small ones quite rarely get anything above 58

 

[mayserwegener]

Paddy, Thanks for posting the additional photos! I occasionally run into a size 60cm but larger than that almost never. It is also tough over hear once you get above 59cm (7 3/8) especially the farther you go back.

 

[Chepstow]

Great hats, Paddy. The Homburger looks very good. Nice finds.

 

[Fastuni]

In Germany and Austria they were often worn with side dents. If you go back before WWII they would not be described as Homburg hats (this is an English / American term).

The term "Homburg" was used in German already in the 1930's.
I'd have to check what the earliest date would be, but in German tailor publications of the mid-1930's and later it's commonplace.

Here is a chart on what to wear to which occasion, from a 1938 clothing advertisement booklet.
It mentions "Homburg":

 

[mayserwegener]

I found this in the September 2, 1899 edition of Deutschen Hutmacher-Zeitung. Moeckel was the original maker of the Homburg hat for Edward VII. This is the first mention of Homburg Hats (this could actually mean any style hat made by Moeckel) that I have run across in a German or Austrian hat trade publication of the late 19th or early 20th centuries. The use of English (Real Homburg-Hats) is directed towards export markets.

Otherwise I haven't seen the Homburg term used in German or Austrian hat trade publications (Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung, Der Deustche Hutdetailist, Österreichisch-ungarische Hutmacher-Zeitung, Österreichisch Hutmacher-Zeitung) for first part of the 20th Century. These publications were manufacturing related (this is my view / major interest) for companies like Mayser, Wilke, Habig, JHS, ect. making finished hats / felt bodies. I am sure the term crossed over fashion wise especially considering Anglo influence (see the chart you posted).

 

[yttclothing]

Had a delivery today !

When I opened the box it was if I had been waiting for a bus, I haven't had homburgs in ages (bar the one I had in my last order) This time I got 5! Also a stetson from the German market & a old German Borsalino, what I didn't get was a hat in my size (as usual ) curse my large head some interesting hats though. Here is a small selection, I also have a Swiss hat must be 50's Ill get some photos of that taken as thats an interesting and nice quality one. I'm off to New York from 2 3/4 month next Wednesday so will be able to finally get some hats that fit and suit me. As for these I have a collector in London who wants some and I'll keep a couple for my collection, the rest on to feesbay !

Anyway enough of my blabbing on with the photo:

The Borsalino, No paper label also a fair amount of damage


DSC_0050 by yttclothing

DSC_0051 by yttclothing

DSC_0052 by yttclothing

The stetson label says 57 this has got to be a mistake must be a 56 at the largest


DSC_0048 by yttclothing

DSC_0049 by yttclothing

A nice fedora by Hut Rüttinger love the size on this 58 1/2 !


DSC_0045 by yttclothing

A hom anyone know the brand form the label its missing its sweatband I saw P and thought Peschel


DSC_0042 by yttclothing

DSC_0044 by yttclothing