German & Austrian Hutmachers

[mayserwegener]

Black Hat, measures 58cm, Crown Open 6 inches, Brim 2 1/4 inches, 84 grams probably later 1930s. This is the fourth hat from my recent find. It doesn't have any labels or company marks. Not sure if it's Wool or Fur Felt (or blend). The felt is extremely light in weight with a very soft hand. It also has a very nice distressed leather sweatband which has buckled. The construction is primitive but the results are not.

 

[steur]

Beautiful hat (as usual). Makes me wonder if there are any hatters today who can make a 84 gram hat.

 

[Celia]

Great research document! Yes I came across this place before or maybe it was Manferd. I think there might be something posted here. This was another Straw making center like Lindenberg / Allgäu which was in the south.

I should have known you would already have come across it I tried searching the forum to see if it had been posted before, but couldn't find it.

I find this especially interesting, as most people nowadays automatically associate European straws with Italy, while there was once a thriving German straw hat industry too.

We all suffer from inadequate feelings when confronted with Steve's knowledge and collection. Him and a few others are invaluable to this site. We're privileged to be on board with them.

Very true that!

I am really into the history so maybe not typical. I really appreciate the fantastic information that Celia is finding and the great recent info from Matt. Also Manfred's, Dieter's and Robert's (unfortunately not posting anymore, also Mario + others) valuable contributions over the years.

It is just the history that makes things so interesting! Of course the hats are interesting on their own (construction, shape, size, materials etc), and wearing them is a pleasure, but being able to place them in a wider historical and geographical context adds a whole extra dimension. I have already learned so much from this forum and from your site, so it makes me happy if my contributions can add something too.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! I remember coming across some sites on the Kreischaer Hat Industry. It was Manfred that posted the document last year. I glad you posted it again because I forgot about it.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/german-austrian-hutmachers.32103/page-249#post-2099046

According to Ottmar Reich "100 Years" (1938) straw hat weaving came to Allgäu southern Germany (long ago) from Italy via the horse trade. The German Straw Hat companies like Ottmar Reich started using Asian plaits in the late 1800s. The French had many Straw Hat companies and of course the Italians (also the Swiss + others ).

Thank you again for supplying all the great information. Please keep it coming!

 

[mayserwegener]

Beautiful hat (as usual). Makes me wonder if there are any hatters today who can make a 84 gram hat.

Thanks! The felt on this one is very light weight. The sweatband might weigh as much as the felt.

 

[FedOregon]

Black Hat, measures 58cm, Crown Open 6 inches, Brim 2 1/4 inches, 84 grams probably later 1930s. This is the fourth hat from my recent find. It doesn't have any labels or company marks. Not sure if it's Wool or Fur Felt (or blend). The felt is extremely light in weight with a very soft hand. It also has a very nice distressed leather sweatband which has buckled. The construction is primitive but the results are not.

Super nice. Please ignore my question in the WHAYWT thread regarding this hat. The answers are right here (I should have known).

 

[Celia]

Thanks again! This is Johann Heinrich ITA/JTA. They were a great Austrian / Vienna hat company.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/11-j-heinr-heinrich-ita-hutfabrik/

I was looking into this some more, and realised there was J Heinrich Ita in Vienna, but also the Ita hat factory in Amstetten (as in the display I posted a picture of). I was not sure whether they were actually related so I did some digging while I couldn't sleep.

The hat factory in Amstetten was founded by the Englishman Thomas Gramlick in 1908 in an existing mill. He then sold it on to Vinzenz Nobel in 1911, and 5 years later it came into the hands of Gustav and Ludwig Ita. On the obituary notice on Steve's site I saw they were J. heinrich Jta's children, so there is the link I was looking for! In 1919 Heinrich Ita (the grandson I assume) is in charge of the factory and he expands it enormously, making it one of Amstetten's most important businesses. By the beginning of the 1930s the company employed 900 workers in day and night Shifts, with almost all of the output being exported to England, until export to the UK became difficult and had to be halted due to the political situation in the lead up to WWII.

After the war the company's fate changed, although many women from Amstetten still found employment in the hat factory in the post war period. However, in the end the company folded, and the outdated factory building and site were sold to the German garment company Bücking and the municipality of Amstetten.

Source of this information (in German): http://heimatforschung-noe.blogspot.de/2012/08/von-der-kranzer-muehle-zur-shopping-city.html

Some images of the hat factory in Amstetten:

Women at work in the factory, 14 june 1949
Source: http://www.bildarchivaustria.at/Pages/ImageDetail.aspx?p_iBildID=3167369

Entrance to the factory, named Breitmühle after the previous owners of the mill Anton and Katharina Breit (before it was a hat factory), also 14 june 1949
Source: http://www.bildarchivaustria.at/Pages/ImageDetail.aspx?p_iBildID=3176078

 

[FedOregon]

Perfectly awesome photos you are all posting here. I love them! What history!

 

[mayserwegener]

I was looking into this some more, and realised there was J Heinrich Ita in Vienna, but also the Ita hat factory in Amstetten (as in the display I posted a picture of). I was not sure whether they were actually related so I did some digging while I couldn't sleep.

The hat factory in Amstetten was founded by the Englishman Thomas Gramlick in 1908 in an existing mill. He then sold it on to Vinzenz Nobel in 1911, and 5 years later it came into the hands of Gustav and Ludwig Ita. On the obituary notice on Steve's site I saw they were J. heinrich Jta's children, so there is the link I was looking for! In 1919 Heinrich Ita (the grandson I assume) is in charge of the factory and he expands it enormously, making it one of Amstetten's most important businesses. By the beginning of the 1930s the company employed 900 workers in day and night Shifts, with almost all of the output being exported to England, until export to the UK became difficult and had to be halted due to the political situation in the lead up to WWII.

After the war the company's fate changed, although many women from Amstetten still found employment in the hat factory in the post war period. However, in the end the company folded, and the outdated factory building and site were sold to the German garment company Bücking and the municipality of Amstetten.

Source of this information (in German): http://heimatforschung-noe.blogspot.de/2012/08/von-der-kranzer-muehle-zur-shopping-city.html

Some images of the hat factory in Amstetten:

Women at work in the factory, 14 june 1949
Source: http://www.bildarchivaustria.at/Pages/ImageDetail.aspx?p_iBildID=3167369

Entrance to the factory, named Breitmühle after the previous owners of the mill Anton and Katharina Breit (before it was a hat factory), also 14 june 1949
Source: http://www.bildarchivaustria.at/Pages/ImageDetail.aspx?p_iBildID=3176078

Great information! In my pre WWII catalog 3 factory locations are listed including Amstetten. Linzer Strasse 140 was the original factory. This is also the case in the 1926 Austrian Hat Industry guide. I think I looked into the St. Gallen, Switzerland factory but can't remember the details.

In the Kelly's Directory Volume 2, Europe 1964 only the Linzer Strasse 140 is listed. I can't remember if the Linzer Strasse 140 factory survived WWII.

From your photos the Amstetten factory survived WWII. This 1929 receipt only lists Linzer Strasse 140 although there were 2 other factory locations. It's possible this address is used because it's the original factory location.

I have only seen the Wien designation on the hats (pre and post WWII). It's highly possible they sold non branded finished hats, semi finished hats and felt hoods based on your information.

 

[Celia]

Great information! In my pre WWII catalog 3 factory locations are listed including Amstetten. Linzer Strasse 140 was the original factory. This is also the case in the 1926 Austrian Hat Industry guide. I think I looked into the St. Gallen, Switzerland factory but can't remember the details.

In the Kelly's Directory Volume 2, Europe 1964 only the Linzer Strasse 140 is listed. I can't remember if the Linzer Strasse 140 factory survived WWII.

From your photos the Amstetten factory survived WWII. This 1929 receipt only lists Linzer Strasse 140 although there were 2 other factory locations. It's possible this address is used because it's the original factory location.

I have only seen the Wien designation on the hats (pre and post WWII). It's highly possible they sold non branded finished hats, semi finished hats and felt hoods based on your information.

Steve, thank you for the additional information, I'm really starting to get a picture of the company's history! If, as the article states, the Amstetten factory mainly exported to England before the war, it is very possible that the hats were finished off and rebranded there. I wonder which English hats were actually ITA productions... I may try to look into them a bit more later when I have more time. The Amstetten factory did survive the war but was in decline from then on really. I'm not sure when exactly they closed down, but I think I read somewhere the building was demolished in 1972. I'll check later when I am not in a rush.

As an interesting socio-historical aside, in the picture I posted of the women working in the factory, I'd like to point out that the man (their boss I assume) is wearing his hat while supervising them at work.

 

[Celia]

Another picture of a different hat factory before I rush off: Piccadilly Hutfabrik. I noticed you have one of their hats on your site, Steve, but no further information.

I found the image in the Schweizeriches Sozialarchiv here:
http://www.bild-video-ton.ch/bestand/objekt/Sozarch_F_5039-Fc-107

If you search for "hutfabrikation" on the website, you will see a few more really interesting pictures of the hat making process

 

[Celia]

To return to ITA, here is a picture of an ITA shop:

Both men's and women's hats in the shop window, as well as suits. Linz, 1950.
http://www.bildarchivaustria.at/Pages/ImageDetail.aspx?p_iBildID=3148713

Here is a timeline of Amstetten, the source which mentions the hat factory building being demolished in 1972: http://www.most-wiki.at/index.php?title=Amstetten_Chronik

 

[mayserwegener]

Steve, thank you for the additional information, I'm really starting to get a picture of the company's history! If, as the article states, the Amstetten factory mainly exported to England before the war, it is very possible that the hats were finished off and rebranded there. I wonder which English hats were actually ITA productions... I may try to look into them a bit more later when I have more time. The Amstetten factory did survive the war but was in decline from then on really. I'm not sure when exactly they closed down, but I think I read somewhere the building was demolished in 1972. I'll check later when I am not in a rush.

As an interesting socio-historical aside, in the picture I posted of the women working in the factory, I'd like to point out that the man (their boss I assume) is wearing his hat while supervising them at work.

Celia, I know that G.A. Dunn & Co. used J. Hückel´s Söhne semi finished hats. There are few examples posted here. Here is one on my website.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...hne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/page-7#entry812

It's the same situation over and over again. Brüder Böhm Wien reopened after WWII but went out of business in the late 1950s. The brand name was sold and made by Fraenkel (Ebreichsdorf, Austria) until 1971 when they went out of business.

The photo is great! There is a lady smiling in the rear. Looks like they are checking and fixing defects.

 

[mayserwegener]

Another picture of a different hat factory before I rush off: Piccadilly Hutfabrik. I noticed you have one of their hats on your site, Steve, but no further information.

View attachment 65596
I found the image in the Schweizeriches Sozialarchiv here:
http://www.bild-video-ton.ch/bestand/objekt/Sozarch_F_5039-Fc-107

If you search for "hutfabrikation" on the website, you will see a few more really interesting pictures of the hat making process

Great photos! I checked the hat and of course no company mark on the paper label. I will have to check with my friend whose shop sold the hat. I didn't see a company name listed. They are machine formed so later. You see a lot use of English brand names like this especially post WWII.

 

[Celia]

Celia, I know that G.A. Dunn & Co. used J. Hückel´s Söhne semi finished hats. There are few examples posted here. Here is one on my website.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hückel´s-söhne-hückel-hutfabrik-weilheim/page-7#entry812

It's the same situation over and over again. Brüder Böhm Wien reopened after WWII but went out of business in the late 1950s. The brand name was sold and made by Fraenkel (Ebreichsdorf, Austria) until 1971 when they went out of business.

The photo is great! There is a lady smiling in the rear. Looks like they are checking and fixing defects.

Thanks for the link to the Hückel / G.A. Dunn & co velour hat on your site. As you well know, Austrian velour hats were very much sought after in England before WWII. An interesting bit of historical information I once came across is that in 1933-34 (If I remember correctly), there was actually a discussion in the British Parliament about whether tariffs on Austrian velour hats should be scrapped in order to support the Austrian economy (and perhaps also because MPs wouldn't mind paying a bit less for their nice velours ). In the end it was decided that this would be too much competition for the english hat industry, so the proposal was scrapped. Then of course with WWII approaching and the Anschluss of Austria more tariffs were imposed and then the import of Austrian hats pretty much stopped, as the Article about the Amstetten factory I posted confirms.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

What I said mayserwegener: I'll keep my eyes open and if I find some interesting things, I'll let you know!

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! I am looking forward to anything you can find.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks for the link to the Hückel / G.A. Dunn & co velour hat on your site. As you well know, Austrian velour hats were very much sought after in England before WWII. An interesting bit of historical information I once came across is that in 1933-34 (If I remember correctly), there was actually a discussion in the British Parliament about whether tariffs on Austrian velour hats should be scrapped in order to support the Austrian economy (and perhaps also because MPs wouldn't mind paying a bit less for their nice velours ). In the end it was decided that this would be too much competition for the english hat industry, so the proposal was scrapped. Then of course with WWII approaching and the Anschluss of Austria more tariffs were imposed and then the import of Austrian hats pretty much stopped, as the Article about the Amstetten factory I posted confirms.

Thank you for the British Parliament story. A while ago I came across a British trade study from the same time period where they couldn't understand why the British Hat Companies couldn't match the Austrian Velour coming out of Czechoslovakia (Austria up to WWI) and Austria. I looked for it recently but couldn't find it.

 

[mayserwegener]

Hückel Weilheim "Elastic", 56cm, Crown Open 5 1/2 inches, Brim with Curl 2 3/8 inches, probably later mid 1950s. Mid width ribbon with thin brim binding. This is a really fantastic (felt, form, dressing) Homburg.

 

[steur]

Another great one. These homburgs have such presence (it took me a while to wear them without being too self-conscious). Don't you think it might be a bit older though? I ask because of the model of the initials in the sweatband; I have only seen these on older hats. Are those something you take out after buying a hat? I'm always a bit unsure what to do with them myself.