German & Austrian Hutmachers

[mayserwegener]

If the company was Austrian / German owned I would place it here. Companies like JHS, A. Peschel, B&B had the same owners up to WWII. The country changed to Czechoslovakia after WWI but all the companies maintained their tie with Austria (see JHS invoice below). In Hungary many of the companies were Austrian / German owned (or had strong ties) up to WWII but were not known names.

Kelly's Directory Of Merchants, Manufacturers And Shippers, 1915, Hat Manufacturers in Budapest

JHS Invoice from 1930

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I'm not sure. The only markings are Kalapgyár (literally, 'Hat Factory')/Budapest/XIV. Gisella Ut-44 on the sweatband, and FEKETE/Antilop on the paper size/reorder label. I imagine those are model and colour designations though, rather than maker.

Anything for any of those in your archives?

 

[mayserwegener]

Yes it's listed above in the 1915 Kelley's Directory for Budapest hat manufacturers. Based on the name (Ung. Woll-, Stumpen- und Hutfabriks A.G.) at that time it was originally Austrian / German owned. It probably became state owned after WWII.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Ah yes. So, good for here?

Looking at a current map of Budapest, Zone XIV (as seen on my hat) is right next to Zone VII (as seen on your list) and Gizella-ut is approx on the border of VII/XIV. This hat is, I would say, middle 50s or so. Maybe earlier, but the sweatband would suggest my approx. date.

Gizella-ut 44 is now a godawful building, looks like apartments so no help from GoogleMaps.

 

[mayserwegener]

I would post it here. Look forward to seeing it. It's too bad the factory building is no longer around. It's possible the old places next door were associated with it.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

yes, there are a few buildings standing around #44. They look like mansions and/or older apartment buildings. It could possibly have been just an office building and the hat manufactory situated somewhere else?

The paper label on mine has numbers that look like they would correspond to the Futter, Leder and Farbe designations on that JHS invoice. Pics to come. It's a real beauty, thin ribbon, and resembles Baron Kurtz's black hat. At £5 it was very cheap, too, which is always a plus.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Kalapgyár Budapest Hungarian velour. Very soft and thinn-ish felt. Not what I usually associate with Iron Curtain goods. Tentative middle 50s. Very thin ribbon is rather rare for European fedoras of this era. 2.5" brim, 5.5" open crown. Marked 57, fits as 56.

850 and 902 could be 'Futter' & 'Leder' designations. 8065 could be the 'Farbe'. 'Fogy. ár' is the price. 'Ellenörizve' ('checked') is the quality control. 'FEKETE' is 'black' and 'Antilop' is, unsurprisingly, 'Antelope' … Who knows? Possibly to designate a hunting style?

 

[ManofKent]

Interesting find Baron.

 

[mayserwegener]

yes, there are a few buildings standing around #44. They look like mansions and/or older apartment buildings. It could possibly have been just an office building and the hat manufactory situated somewhere else?

The paper label on mine has numbers that look like they would correspond to the Futter, Leder and Farbe designations on that JHS invoice. Pics to come. It's a real beauty, thin ribbon, and resembles Baron Kurtz's black hat. At £5 it was very cheap, too, which is always a plus.

I guess that is possible but my guess is it was the factory location. It isn't uncommon to see such buildings next to the factory. I will see if I can find any more information.

Interesting! It's highly possible they have the same designations. Can't beat that price!

 

[Chepstow]

Indeed a nice find Pete! Congrats!

 

[mayserwegener]

Kalapgyár Budapest Hungarian velour. Very soft and thinn-ish felt. Not what I usually associate with Iron Curtain goods. Tentative middle 50s. Very thin ribbon is rather rare for European fedoras of this era. 2.5" brim, 5.5" open crown. Marked 57, fits as 56.

850 and 902 could be 'Futter' & 'Leder' designations. 8065 could be the 'Farbe'. 'Fogy. ár' is the price. 'Ellenörizve' ('checked') is the quality control. 'FEKETE' is 'black' and 'Antilop' is, unsurprisingly, 'Antelope' … Who knows? Possibly to designate a hunting style?

Super! It does have an older look to it. Maybe shortly after the WWII but that is just a guess. I know TONAK made high quality hats into the 1950s so the felt quality is not surprising for an Eastern source.

I am sure you are correct about the numbering. They probably just adapted to the language change. I am pretty sure "Antilop" is the felt finish (it looks that way). In Austria / Germany it would be "Antilope".

Update: I found that District XIV was added in 1935. Prior to that the area was part of 3 other districts. This means the hat is post 1935.

Also there was a hat factory at Gizella-ut 44. Wish they had restored the old factory buildings! I found a study of the area with the following information.

I.8. ENVIRONMENTAL ASSESSMENT
The study area in District XIV - Part -mounted urban environment . land-use
respect to the transition between the built urban green space and nature -related land use .
The study involved a load of space , on the other hand, the area 's operation following disease
cover mapping .
Urban environment
The study area sports and recreational , institutional, operational functioning. The boundary roads
significant transit traffic are conducted , the public transport Stephanie , Kerepesi the Thokoly
road, boulevard Hungary is taking place. In addition to the stadium and the institutions of the basic functions of own
operations car - mechanic workshop , laundry , swimming pool , boiler work. The test 1
km radius of significant changes have taken place in recent years. The former industrial facilities ,
colonies ceased to exist continuously , fragmented and changed profile . The change is clearly
beneficial to the environment. Institutional in character of the new facilities, and more
gated community built in the area.
Changed markedly Sites: Egressy road ÉPFA - formed into service , BUBIV resolution,
Phylaxia Pharma - disappeared ; Hungaria krt. Phone Factory - Siemens modern new establishments is
built over ; Ilka street Belker Transport Companies , Paper Mill ceased - office houses built for them ;
Giselle street No. 40-42 Hat Factory has been discontinued Foundation schools , the construction industry
designer company operates ; Ensign Street - Elco Ltd. ceased. Egressy travel depots Post
residual fuel oil, gas fûtésmódját tüzelésrõl mode modernized .
The most significant change in the design area Récsei garage relocation , which sports and
green area shall bind function as a foreign body , as well as noise and air pollution combined
resulted in termination .

 

[Baron Kurtz]

mayserwegener … What's the date on that "hat factory has been discontinued" information?

 

[mayserwegener]

There isn't a date mentioned plus the rough Google translation. I have a feeling the buildings were still around not too long ago. Here is a link to the report (see page 12) but it's in Hungarian. It appears this area was industrial and they are still trying to clean it up.

http://regi.epiteszforum.hu/files/muleiras_23.pdf

 

[Chepstow]

Steve, great Detective work!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[mayserwegener]

Manfred, Thanks!

 

[mayserwegener]

Borchert Berlin W., measures size 59cm, super condition, with original box, probably mid 1950s. I think this one has great form!

 

[ManofKent]

Steve I've never heard of Borchert, but that's a stunning hat. I take it the seller didn't happen o have an identical one in a 60/61?

Lovely colour, great proportions and a nice ribbon.

 

[alanfgag]

Very beautiful... details are wonderful especially the triple pleated ribbon and bow. Thanks for sharing it with us.

 

[mayserwegener]

Richard, Thanks! I don't believe C. W. Borchert made their own hats. They were a men's store in Berlin that went way back. I found that Rehfus & Cie. made hats for them but I am not sure if that relationship continued after WWII. I have one other Borchert and it's from a similar time period as this latest one.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/96-c-w-borchert-berlin-w-marke-borchert/

The same seller also had a really great Wegener Extra that I will post later. The sizes were not listed but I had an idea that were larger sizes.

Alan, Thanks! It does have a really nice ribbon design.

 

[ManofKent]

Thanks Steve - some of the store own hats can be real gems - that other one looks great too.