Formal Wear Primer

[Fletch]

The Madison Ave. Brooks store is the 44th St. store. If you don't believe me, enter at 44th, walk straight ahead a little ways, then turn right towards a double door in the center of the main floor. Walk thru this and presto, you're on Madison.

The 5th & 53rd store has a smaller and more popular selection of merchandise, so you'd not be likely to see such a fogy old froufrou as a grosgrain tie. Try Paul Stuart. Back across to Madison and down to 45th.

 

[Mr. Rover]

I ended up buying a regular butterfly grosgrain bowtie at Paul Stuart. The batwing was too big and the narrow 60's style bowtie doesn't go with my '39 wide lapelled tux.
Their window displays are pretty neat right now- old Hollywood studio with glamour shots of all the stars...I think I saw Rita Hayworth, Fred Astaire, James Stewart, and Cary Grant. George Clooney was in the bunch, too....but he doesn't matter.
You'd think that it'd be easier to find a grosgrain bowtie...I tried the BB on 5th, Hickey Freeman next door, Jos Bank, Thomas Pink (whose bowties were hideously GIGANTIC), and Saks. Nothing that really hit the spot.

 

[Mr. Rover]

My old family friend looked really glamourous- almost 50's Grace Kelly-style.

 

[Aquia33]

Flower color

Addendum on the flowers: in the 30s, carnations were the flower of choice. White was the most correct and red was a daring alternative. .

I seem to remember from high school proms etc. that white carnations indicated that your mother had passed away and red/pink indicated she was alive.

 

[vonwotan]

Mr. Rover,
I stopped in to Pink the other day and see what you mean. It is unfortunate what has happened to all of their ties. Once upon a time, when they were selling on Jermyn Street the four in hand ties were shorter, narrower and more my size as were the bows. One of my favourite bows is from pink - it must be half the size of what they carry now!

I ended up buying a regular butterfly grosgrain bowtie at Paul Stuart. The batwing was too big and the narrow 60's style bowtie doesn't go with my '39 wide lapelled tux.
Their window displays are pretty neat right now- old Hollywood studio with glamour shots of all the stars...I think I saw Rita Hayworth, Fred Astaire, James Stewart, and Cary Grant. George Clooney was in the bunch, too....but he doesn't matter.
You'd think that it'd be easier to find a grosgrain bowtie...I tried the BB on 5th, Hickey Freeman next door, Jos Bank, Thomas Pink (whose bowties were hideously GIGANTIC), and Saks. Nothing that really hit the spot.

 

[DELTA0321]

Buttons on DJ cuffs

Would any of the folks here comment on buttons for dinner jacket sleeves?
I've found myself w/ a new (never tailored) Dinner Jacket & the sleeve buttons were supplied in a small pouch in the pocket. I know that normal suits can have - as a somewhat higher-end option - buttonholes which are cut through & buttons sewn on so they actually are functional. Is there an equivalent for formal wear? The illustrations I've seen seem to show rather loosely sewn on buttons that are non-functional.

BTW. this is not any attempt to be vintage styled of any era, just a decent looking dinner jacket.

Many thanks for any help.

 

[Orgetorix]

Would any of the folks here comment on buttons for dinner jacket sleeves?
I've found myself w/ a new (never tailored) Dinner Jacket & the sleeve buttons were supplied in a small pouch in the pocket. I know that normal suits can have - as a somewhat higher-end option - buttonholes which are cut through & buttons sewn on so they actually are functional. Is there an equivalent for formal wear? The illustrations I've seen seem to show rather loosely sewn on buttons that are non-functional.

BTW. this is not any attempt to be vintage styled of any era, just a decent looking dinner jacket.

Many thanks for any help.

As far as I know, it's fine to have functional sleeve buttonholes on any jacket, dinner jackets included. If you want them, go ahead and get them cut.

 

[Mr. Rover]

I just got back my cream palm beach dinner jacket from the tailor...Whatcha think?

 

[Orgetorix]

Quite nice, Ray. I think if it were mine, I'd shorten the sleeves to show some cuff, but other than that, it's great!

 

[AlanC]

As far as I know, it's fine to have functional sleeve buttonholes on any jacket, dinner jackets included. If you want them, go ahead and get them cut.

Yes, Orgetorix is certainly correct. It would also be prudent to do a fitting after the tailor has adjusted the sleeve length but before the buttons have been cut. Once they're cut, they're cut.

 

[Tomasso]

Ray, you'll have to get that hand deeper into your pocket for that royal look.

 

[Jovan]

Very Casablanca. But I too would get the sleeves shortened a tad.

 

[Mr. Rover]

I think it might be worth a trip to get the sleeves shortened....my lack of a rear-end creates an unsightly ripple in the back where my butt would've been. I didn't catch that the first time around.

 

[The real Henry]

Very cool Ray!

I some of those on ebay, but they all didn't fit me.:rage:

Those must be much better for dancing than wool tuxedos!



Regards,
Henrik

 

[Mr. Rover]

I've tried the jacket on again with shirt with sleeves that are slightly longer (they go slightly past where my thumb meets my wrist) and it does show the appropriate amount of cuff. I suppose I'll get a plain white french cuff shirt made with slightly longer sleeves for prom. I usually prefer to wear my shirts and suits with sleeves that err on the shorter side, so that's probably why this jacket covers up the sleeve.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Who makes Chas's suits these days? Can't seem to fit a collar for some reason. More free money from the people down the drain.

bk

 

[scotrace]

The Bespoke Tailor English Cut is talking about those shoulders right now, Baron. It seems the Prince is very hard to fit.

"A very nice gentleman indeed, but one we all struggled to keep a coat up on his neck."

 

[Baron Kurtz]

And here was i thinking nothing was impossible.

His beer is okay, by the way. Not amazing, but drinkable.

bk

 

[Orgetorix]

And, to be fair, the tailor who made it might not have factored for HRH plopping his hand in the pocket like that.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

But with Chas that's a bit like not factoring in his fiddling with his cufflinks and his tie knot. The hand in the pocket is almost a character trait with him.

bk