Formal Wear Primer

[Tomasso]

Not an oxford, nor patent leather, yet I think it works.

 

[Harp]

:eusa_clap

 

[Orgetorix]

That's one hell of a chiseled toe. I think it works, too.

 

[OldSkoolFrat]

Ok, I know I have found the right crowd. Back in January 2003 I bought a pair of black cap toe lace ups (everyday bankers shoes) to use at my Co. Christmas party. Can't afford Allen-Edmunds patent leathers and they are the only maker who makes patent in narrow widths.

Worked on those shoes for 11 months of polishing using my dad's vintage horse hair shoe brush. Wife thought I was nuts. Put a spit shine (Mellow Yellow works better than spit, BTW) on them the day of the party and the shoes looked as shiney as patent. Almost too much to wear to work.

If I wear a cummerbund, I am not supposed to wear Braces? How do I keep my pants up? I might just get some white braces: If the fashion police chase me I can at least run and not have my pants fall off.

Anyone ever get cuffs in a formal pant?

 

[shindeco]

If I wear a cummerbund, I am not supposed to wear Braces? How do I keep my pants up? I might just get some white braces: If the fashion police chase me I can at least run and not have my pants fall off.

Wear the white braces; I agree with you; it's better than droopy drawers!

Anyone ever get cuffs in a formal pant?

Formal trousers are never cuffed

 

[OldSkoolFrat]

White ones eh? Now I have an excuse to buy some!!

And a chance to buy a couple more pairs of black formal socks/stockings. I have to wear inserts in my shoes to prevent plantar facitis and those formal socks never bunch up and fold between my foot and the insert. They are warm in winter and cool in summer and as they are black, they go with almost everthing.

 

[Orgetorix]

Worked on those shoes for 11 months of polishing using my dad's vintage horse hair shoe brush. Wife thought I was nuts. Put a spit shine (Mellow Yellow works better than spit, BTW) on them the day of the party and the shoes looked as shiney as patent. Almost too much to wear to work.

Hmm...wouldn't the carbonic acid in the Mello Yello harm the shoes or the finish?

If I wear a cummerbund, I am not supposed to wear Braces? How do I keep my pants up? I might just get some white braces: If the fashion police chase me I can at least run and not have my pants fall off.

I wear black braces and cummerbund with my DJ, and have never had a problem. If you keep your jacket on--which you should--they probably won't even show.

 

[OldSkoolFrat]

A few drops of the Mellow Yellow only, not the whole can. Learned the trick in Military school.

 

[Will]

Someone called attention to the auction of the late Duke of Windsor's possessions in a separate thread.

Here are pictures of the morning coat he was married in, and a midnight blue tailcoat. The clothes were purchased by Kiton at auction.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Should the waistband be showing in the white tie ensemble?
Also, alot of pictures of the Duke of Windsor show him wearing pants without a break (due to the fact that he was tiny and they made him "taller"). Do you think the mannequins are showing them how they would've been worn, with such a large break?

 

[Will]

I don't think the mannequins duplicate the Duke's body.

As you point out, there is too much break on the trousers and the tailcoat's waistband is visible. The points on the tailcoat's waistcoat are also too low

 

[Garrett]

If only Astaire were alive to tell of the immaculate tailoring he employed.

 

[Will]

If only Astaire were alive to tell of the immaculate tailoring he employed.

If only the tailors that did the work were still alive...

 

[Mr. Rover]

If you wear a jacket with grosgrain lapels, does that mean you need a grosgrain bowtie?

 

[manton]

If you wear a jacket with grosgrain lapels, does that mean you need a grosgrain bowtie?

Strictly speaking, yes. But no one will notice. I have many times worn a grosgrain bow with satin lapels, and no one cares. More to the point, it doesn't bother me. And the only person more anal about these things than me is Will. (It probably bothers him.)

 

[Mr. Rover]

Manton, Where can I get a grosgrain bowtie in NYC? I've only seen one person with one (and he had his custom made). My current bowtie has texture to it, but it isn't really "grosgrain".
And just for the record, do you need a grosgrain cummerbund, too? (I'm wearing a waistcoat, but now I'm curious.)

 

[manton]

I got mine at Flusser (3 East 48th). He always seems to have them on hand.

 

[vonwotan]

Thos. Pink also carries grosgrain bow ties, and I believe the Brooks Brothers on 44th usually has both satin and grosgrain ties.

 

[Jovan]

I may get a bunch of cheap shoes thrown at me for this, but I personally think calf leather oxfords look better with black tie.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Thos. Pink also carries grosgrain bow ties, and I believe the Brooks Brothers on 44th usually has both satin and grosgrain ties.

Would the Madison Ave. or Fifth Ave. BB have them?