Formal Wear Primer

[Simonds]

This photo is taken on one the formal nights that we had on QM2 crossing from Southampton to NYC. I attempted to use all of the knowledge that I've gained on TFL to present myself well.


It's difficult to see in this photo, but I believe that I succeeded. Unfortunately, I don't believe that anyone else onboard would have known the difference.

Lovely photo Bruce, looks like you and your wife had great time.

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Something which I thought was worth sharing, this is a rather neat and I suspect rather rare combination white evening dress waistcoat and braces by London city shirtmakers Rendell & Son of Gracechurch St. It is cleverly designed in that it amends the classic backless waistcoat design so that the waistcoat facings are continued upwards into elasticated straps which then button together to form x-back braces, the ends of which button, via adjustable nickel-plated steel runners, onto the back brace buttons of a pair of evening dress trousers, whilst four button loops (finished in the same pique/marcella weave as the waistcoat front) on the inside front of the waistcoat serve the same office, buttoning on to the front brace buttons. There are also metal loops at the waistcoat, presumably for a waist strap, but without having worn the waistcoat in earnest I am not sure how needful this is. Other than these innovations it is conventionally styled in the classic manner, with square-bottomed shawl lapels, twin jetted pockets three-button front and twin points to the base). An interesting item, which I hope is of some interest.

 

[Fastuni]

An interesting item, which I hope is of some interest.

Indeed! I can imagine that this construction stays better in place and is more comfortable. Also no need for extra suspenders.

 

[Two Types]

One issue with the braces/waistcoat combination would be the front loops to button onto the trousers. If they are in a fixed position, one would only be able to wear them with trousers with the correct button placement. I'm sure it wasn't an issue for the original owners but would mean you are limited to certain trousers.

(having just written that, I realise that there aren't many people who are ever likely to need more than one pair of trousers for white-tie! thus my comment is rather pointless)

 

[BR Gordon]

This is my favorite dinner jacket. From the ACWA tag, I believe that it dates somewhere between 1934 and 1949. The end of the tag with dates or bugs is not visible. Would anyone be able to narrow the range? Unfortunately, my photos don't do justice to the jacket.

 

[Fastuni]

Lovely! Late 1930's would be a good guess.
If you want to be sure, the answer to the riddle would be carefully opening the stitching of the lining (if it is fully lined, open the seam attaching the lining to the collar) reach trough, and have a peek at the hidden part of the Union tag.

 

[BR Gordon]

Thank you Fastuni, I think that your information is close enough. I'm not going to start taking stitching out at this point; I may have my tailor do it at some future time.

 

[Tomasso]

Nice DJ, BR. One thing you might consider is having your tailor sew shut those droopy besom pockets; an easy fix for a common malady.

 

[BR Gordon]

Nice DJ, BR. One thing you might consider is having your tailor sew shut those droopy besom pockets; an easy fix for a common malady.

Good idea, I'll do that.

 

[Midnight Blue]

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It's cool to see an actual example of this after having only seen depictions in vintage ads like this one from 1934:

 

[BR Gordon]

Is there anything about this dinner jacket that is distinctive enough to date it to some period? My other DJ is from the late 1930s, but this one is, I believe, made in england and has no ACWA tags.

 

[Fastuni]

Without interior and detail shots, these tailor-made (I assume) British jackets are particularly hard to date.

But what comes to the eye:

Pocket flaps - very unusual for a classical tuxedo.
Relatively moderate lapels with high gorge.
Long horizontal chest pocket.
Fabric covered buttons.
Rather thin and somewhat shiny fabric.

I dunno... looks to me strongly like something made after the 1960's (or it is pre-1930, which I rather doubt).
Could be something altered into a tuxedo.

 

[BR Gordon]

Without interior and detail shots, these tailor-made (I assume) British jackets are particularly hard to date.

But what comes to the eye:

Pocket flaps - very unusual for a classical tuxedo.


Relatively moderate lapels with high gorge.
Long horizontal chest pocket.
Fabric covered buttons.
Rather thin and somewhat shiny fabric.

I dunno... looks to me strongly like something made after the 1960's (or it is pre-1930, which I rather doubt).
Could be something altered into a tuxedo.

Thank you. I was guessing 1960's. It is much lighter weight than my 1930's DJ. It doesn't appear to have been altered. I don't understand the pocket flaps either, those will be taken care of the next time I visit my tailor.

 

[BR Gordon]

Without interior and detail shots, these tailor-made (I assume) British jackets are particularly hard to date.

If I were to take photos of the interior and details, what would I be looking for?

 

[Two Types]

new thread of relevance to formal wear

I have just started a thread: 'The Well Dressed Man by The Baron' which consists of cuttings from a 1920s newspaper column on menswear. You might be interested to read some of his observations on formal wear: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?73720-The-Well-Dressed-Man-by-The-Baron

 

[brendond]

Recived today a vintage evening shirt that is the start of my white tie rig i will use shirt in black tie for now. shirt needs a good clean so its off to be laundered, but at 17.99 it was a bargain. I think the shirt looks amazing but ill take getting used to wearing . Any comments are welcome. sorry didnt get a pic with jacket on

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Could any of you fine gentlemen advise me please? I have just taken delivery of a vintage New & Lingwood white tie dress shirt, plain stiff front with matching link cuffs. So far so good, but the body is like nothing I have ever seen before. Can anyone help me identify the fabric?

Many thanks in advance. To add - the dark pinstriped effect is not in fact a stripe at all. It is the colour of the surface the shirt is lying on showing through the thin parts of the weave! I assume it must be some sort of lightweight material, but what I don't know.

 

[GHT]

Got yourself a very fine shirt there, my friend. New & Lingwood of Jermyn Street, says it all. I can't quite make out the fabric, but chances are it will be twofold cotton poplin. Twofold just means that they twist two yarns together. It is a common practice for adding strength without giving it a bulky appearance. Just a trivia note. Did you know that New & Lingwood have a shop at Eton School? Nothing like getting them young.
How stupid of me, Eton is on the collar tag.

 

[Tomasso]

the body is like nothing I have ever seen before. Can anyone help me identify the fabric?
To add - the dark pinstriped effect is not in fact a stripe at all. It is the colour of the surface the shirt is lying on showing through the thin parts of the weave! I assume it must be some sort of lightweight material, but what I don't know.

That fabric appears to be a cotton voile. Very sheer and breathable stuff used for the sleeves and back of formal shirts, usually a custom feature not found on off the peg.

Side note: I've had summer shirts made of voile using a double layer on the front for the sake of modesty.

 

[Chrome]

I bought another set to formal happenings. I don't know why I buy these agin and again but this was too nice and special to skip. I found a white tie outfit and a black tie jacket & vest from same guys wardrobe. Both were made from same cloth, buttons and same time. I guess trousers were ment to do double duty because all matces.

Few pics:
Together shot, nothing new here


Matching buttons, black tie vest and jacket


White tie jacket inner buttons match


White tie labels (dj was made in the following day), sleeve buttons are working in both jackets.


Double duty trousers, with date. For gentlemen buttons and nearly unworn.



One question popped, where are those cords supposed to attached?