Five Star Leather Jackets

[rcdcr]

After my retro jacket 40's Sports Style Jacket "Westerner" from FiveStar Leather in Goatskin, this time I ordered the same jacket but in cloth fabric with some leather applications. I have to say the guys at FiveStar Leather did a fantastic job... the jacket fits perfectly.

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Very cool! What kind of fabric options do they have?

 

[MrProper]

Which model is this? Or was it one you customized??

This is the 1930s halfbelt in the @ton312 edition. So the stock jacket with modifications to the back, collar and cuff.
I still had zippers made in the pockets. And of course everything according to my measurements.

 

[58panheadfan]

Very cool! What kind of fabric options do they have?

Thank you! Not sure what they have in stock, opted for a B-10 cloth fabric in gray for this particular Jacket.

 

[Asinyne]

This is the 1930s halfbelt in the @ton312 edition. So the stock jacket with modifications to the back, collar and cuff.
I still had zippers made in the pockets. And of course everything according to my measurements.

If you don’t mind me asking, what alterations did you ask for for the back, collar, and cuffs? Looks like you got rid of the cuff adjusters, but the collar looks very similar to my untrained eye.

 

[MrProper]

If you don’t mind me asking, what alterations did you ask for for the back, collar, and cuffs? Looks like you got rid of the cuff adjusters, but the collar looks very similar to my untrained eye.

No buttons to adjust on the cuffs, no plaits on the back, different buckles on the side adjusters, collar is slightly larger, pockets are positioned minimally differently, zippers on the pockets. May well be that these changes have found their way into the series.
@ton321 can certainly say more here. After all, I have only copied.

 

[Hh121]

Things to be aware of: @MrProper and @ton312 look good on any jacket

 

[ton312]

Things to be aware of: @MrProper and @ton312 look good on any jacket

That’s certainly not true but I do appreciate the kind words!

 

[MrProper]

That’s certainly not true but I do appreciate the kind words!

Yes, very kind. Thanks.

 

[Asinyne]

How much “slack” do you typically allow for your dimensions? 5* says 4-6” above what your measurement is for the chest, but I also want to get something that isn’t too loose so that it breaks in an contours to my body as I wear it. I’d asked about 2-3” and they said it’d be too tight. Same goes for the sleeves: would adding 2” to armscye (18 > 20), bicep (13 > 15), elbow, and wrists be too much slack? Or not enough? I’ve measured jackets but they’re off the rack and boxier by nature so it makes it difficult.

 

[El Marro]

Anything over 4” is typically a very relaxed fit. Many around here who like trim fit jackets do shoot for around 2” to 3” over their chest measurement, some go even tighter.
This is a great question for @MrProper because he has many five star jackets that fit perfectly.

 

[Asinyne]

Anything over 4” is typically a very relaxed fit. Many around here who like trim fit jackets do shoot for around 2” to 3” over their chest measurement, some go even tighter.
This is a great question for @MrProper because he has many five star jackets that fit perfectly.

That’s what I was worried about. If I followed 5*s advice, I’d maybe go 4” over my measured chest size (I have a ~40.5” chest so I was thinking of 44”) but 5* was trying to talk me into a 45-46”. I obviously want to be able to breathe and be comfortable, but I also want it to be somewhat slim so it can stretch and mold better — and I only plan on wearing it with a tshirt/long sleeve t, no bulky sweatshirts or anything. I probably won’t even zip it all that often.

 

[Rugby]

That’s what I was worried about. If I followed 5*s advice, I’d maybe go 4” over my measured chest size (I have a ~40.5” chest so I was thinking of 44”) but 5* was trying to talk me into a 45-46”. I obviously want to be able to breathe and be comfortable, but I also want it to be somewhat slim so it can stretch and mold better — and I only plan on wearing it with a tshirt/long sleeve t, no bulky sweatshirts or anything. I probably won’t even zip it all that often.

I followed the 5* recommendation for sizing and the result was a jacket way too loose. I took it to a seamstress and resized down a couple of inches. It fits great now

 

[ton312]

5 star's default is to go wildly oversized. I would disregard any sizing advice from them and simply measure for yourself and make any adjustments off those measurements.

 

[El Marro]

5 star's default is to go wildly oversized. I would disregard any sizing advice from them and simply measure for yourself and make any adjustments off those measurements.

I have seen this with a lot of jackets sellers and makers and I’m sure it makes sense to them. I know that I personally have kept a number of jackets that were too large while I have returned every single one that was too tight.

 

[ton312]

I have seen this with a lot of jackets sellers and makers and I’m sure it makes sense to them. I know that I personally have kept a number of jackets that were too large while I have returned every single one that was too tight.

Yep. It’s far easier to accept a jacket that is larger than it is smaller. I think most makers bank on the fact that oversized pieces are less likely to be returned.

 

[MrProper]

Anything over 4” is typically a very relaxed fit. Many around here who like trim fit jackets do shoot for around 2” to 3” over their chest measurement, some go even tighter.
This is a great question for @MrProper because he has many five star jackets that fit perfectly.

I have relaxed around 43.7" chest.
I usually order my jackets with 23 or 23.25 p2p.

 

[Aloysius]

Anything over 4” is typically a very relaxed fit.

Cutting in here because you're very right when it comes to half-belts and the like– but on something like a very V-shaped jacket this is not necessarily the case. (I know you know this but new visitors might not.)

 

[Asinyne]

Cutting in here because you're very right when it comes to half-belts and the like– but on something like a very V-shaped jacket this is not necessarily the case. (I know you know this but new visitors might not.)

Thank you, that was unknown to me. I’ve never ordered something custom before — especially without getting to try stuff on for a frame of reference — so that’s why I’m trying to ask questions (hoping to set myself up for success). The 1930s Half-belt is what I’m looking at, so from the feedback I’ve been getting I think I’m going to err on a slightly slimmer fit than 5* recommends.

 

[Asinyne]

Finally have everything dialed in except the armscye. It’s a pain to measure — not sure if I’m being accurate — and not sure how big is too big and how small is too small. I’ve got an 18” pit circumference — would a 10.5” (21”) for the jacket be adequate?

Also, are the QAQC progress photos from 5* a standard practice of their’s or is that something I need to request from them?

 

[rcdcr]

Finally have everything dialed in except the armscye. It’s a pain to measure — not sure if I’m being accurate — and not sure how big is too big and how small is too small. I’ve got an 18” pit circumference — would a 10.5” (21”) for the jacket be adequate?

Also, are the QAQC progress photos from 5* a standard practice of their’s or is that something I need to request from them?

There's an upcharge for this, but you can request a fit jacket be sent to you to double check how your measurements ended up translating... I recall seeing that somewhere in this 200+ page thread...