Five Star Leather Jackets

[troika]

How do people know how to request an armhole size and the corresponding sleeve width? Seems like a pattern making detail that's tough to judge as a layman

 

[Griemersma]

True-- I'm just basing it on measurements from my vintage jacket and on Ton321's experience, since the jacket I plan to make is built from the same pattern block.

@ton321 : I was looking at pictures on the Library of Congress website today and stumbled across this. The smiling guy in the foreground looks to be wearing the jacket that you recreated in the Red Russet. Californian, I think it was? Like the GW Arcadia.

 

[MrProper]

I was also thinking a darker chocolate brown suede would be nice for that Smoke.

That's what I was thinking about.
If I do this I will take seal brown steer but with the rough side out.
I have unlined pockets from the leather on a vest and think that might look good.

 

[Bahabp100]

How do people know how to request an armhole size and the corresponding sleeve width? Seems like a pattern making detail that's tough to judge as a layman

Measure a jacket that fits you well

 

[Imuricecreamman]

All dried up after the soak. Feels like a different jacket. More pop to the grain and a flatter, duller finish.

 

[ton312]

@ton312 : Yes-- that is a definite improvement. Is the armscye on their HB 11"? Based on measuring my old Hercules, I asked for:

Armscye: 11"
Bicep: 8.5" (although I think 8" might actually be better, though)
Elbow: 7"
Cuff: 6"

Also, thank you for all of the experimentation and sharing you have done with these jackets-- it really helps the rest of us dial things in for a good fit.

Yes indeed, closer maybe to 10.5” with my ideal for high cut armholes being 10”. Is peeled all this out to Shawn in previous orders but did not do so with this last one. Thankfully Dena was able to rescue the sleeves without altering the body, as that process would be far more costly!

 

[hughesovka]

Question for Five Star owners: does everyone receive pictures of their jackets before they're shipped?

 

[MrProper]

Question for Five Star owners: does everyone receive pictures of their jackets before they're shipped?

Yes.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Imuricecreamman Nice! You can get the shine back by a quick oil spray, it will pop the grains even more. And I see you have discovered the curly fur secret. Haha. Every fur collar can be "Irvin" just add water and watch the magic happen.

 

[thor]

I just picked up this 5-Star Bronco A-2 repro off eBay, lightly used, in conic (cognac?) brown goatskin. Perfect fit, light yet robust leather, excellent workmanship. Their conic brown goatskin is a perfect match for an original WWII russet goat A-2 that I used to own. Great weathering, patina and overall “character” on this specific leather.

 

[Bfd70]

All dried up after the soak. Feels like a different jacket. More pop to the grain and a flatter, duller finish. View attachment 403695 View attachment 403696 View attachment 403697 View attachment 403698 View attachment 403699 View attachment 403700

Nice use of the pocket? Zippo?

 

[KBlake]

To me that looks grainier than my steer but not too much thinner, if at all. The pull-up/distressed brown looked a little better. Stretch marks, varied grain.

View attachment 401660
View attachment 401671

Which leather is this?

 

[ton312]

Which leather is this?

That’s the house brand black steerhide.

 

[PilotJens]

Man I want a another five star.
I cannot decide between a black steer/Horsehide Cossack or getting a Toni design again .

Can someone judge by my awful holiday pictures if I should make the armholes higher/smaller ?
I am way to harsh myself .

This is the exact same jacket as pictured on the five star website .
The grain has gotten more pronounced and sorry "scrotum" grain is starting to form in some high stress areas .
The Jacket has been conditioned multiple times over let's say 9-10 months I think .Worn in rain snow and heavy sun .
Basically giving it the Indiana Jones treatment just less action heavy .

I will post some close ups

Overall great leather
This Steerhide had the glazing which seems to be the standard finish now .

 

[Canuck Panda]

Someone (here?) sent Shawn a Cal to copy. I copied your copy with no belt and side buckles instead of laces, and in brown.

Thank you the person who sent Shawn the Cal. I’ve been looking at a Cal for a while but my size were always taken before I had any chance.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Man I want a another five star.
I cannot decide between a black steer/Horsehide Cossack or getting a Toni design again .

Can someone judge by my awful holiday pictures if I should make the armholes higher/smaller ?
I am way to harsh myself .

This is the exact same jacket as pictured on the five star website .
The grain has gotten more pronounced and sorry "scrotum" grain is starting to form in some high stress areas .
The Jacket has been conditioned multiple times over let's say 9-10 months I think .Worn in rain snow and heavy sun .
Basically giving it the Indiana Jones treatment just less action heavy .

View attachment 404071
I will post some close ups

Overall great leather
This Steerhide had the glazing which seems to be the standard finish now .

Looks good. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

 

[PilotJens]

Is that seal horse hide ? It looks beautiful .It seems to have a little stiffness which is nice .

 

[PilotJens]

Then I will reuse my measurements thanks .

 

[Griemersma]

Looks great! Yes, what is the leather on the brown Cal???

 

[ojaw]

Man I want a another five star.
I cannot decide between a black steer/Horsehide Cossack or getting a Toni design again .

Can someone judge by my awful holiday pictures if I should make the armholes higher/smaller ?
I am way to harsh myself .

This is the exact same jacket as pictured on the five star website .
The grain has gotten more pronounced and sorry "scrotum" grain is starting to form in some high stress areas .
The Jacket has been conditioned multiple times over let's say 9-10 months I think .Worn in rain snow and heavy sun .
Basically giving it the Indiana Jones treatment just less action heavy .

View attachment 404071
I will post some close ups

Overall great leather
This Steerhide had the glazing which seems to be the standard finish now .

Keeping in mind that I'm a know-nothing, I'd say they do seem big compared to the body, but if going smaller would in any way create discomfort then leave the measurements as they are. Comfort > Insta-fits.