Five Star Leather Jackets

[Wardo1974]

Tbh, for a cafe racer I would recommend finding a good vintage one. Old Schott, Bates, Brooks, Kehoe racers can be found in good condition at a relatively cheap price. And they look a lot better than the racers that I’ve seen from 5* and what Lusso showcases on their website.

For sure. I've been looking for months. I've never seen a vintage one big enough for me. I'm strongly considering a new build from Aero but my past experiences make me wary in sizing.

I've basically decided to take a flyer on 5* if they have horse in a few months, try my sizing. If it works out I can apply the knowledge to Aeros or others. If I sell a used 5* in horse, I'd recoup more than a cowhide type.

 

[MrProper]

I took a day and read this entire thread, 76 pages. Whuh. Ha ha.

I was initially excited about the idea of a customized, inexpensive jacket.

I have been looking for a year for a used Aero that would fit me in the size 46 range and have seen literally nothing. So I wondered if Shawn could do me up a nice cafe racer styled jacket. Essentially the design that is already listed on his site, but with chest pockets, gussets, and a more customized sizing for me - that's it. I basically asked him for a size 46 with wider shoulders, but yet a narrower P2P, with chest pockets and gussets on the back.

He told me this would be $350 USD shipped with his leather selection. Considering his base cafe jacket is 160 this seemed like a big jump for me.

The hangup for me is that I find the leathers he uses all very ordinary. Many of the designs you guys have chosen look wonderful, and ideally suited to the leathers he has on hand. I wanted a tougher, grainy, stiff leather (like horse obviously) to make a jacket from. I have a hard time justifying 350 for a relatively simple cafe style in cowhide, because I can get jackets locally that are a fair bit less money in similar styles. I live in Canada; a short drive from my house is Lusso Leathers, which also makes custom jackets, and they can sell me a cowhide cafe style jacket for $250 USD, custom tailored to my shape. Off the rack in local stores it's possible to find simple cafe style jackets that are around $150-175.

It would seem to me that this buying model has value only if, 1.) You can get a super-duper, unheard-of pattern that's impossible to find anywhere else, yet costs 350 to get it, or 2.) You can ask for a design that comes in a much superior leather than is normally available for 350.

He said he'd be getting horse leather in a few months. If he does, and if it looks awesome, I'll see about a cafe design. Otherwise...I honestly don't see the value. Am I missing something here?

I took a look at Lusso's side and it doesn't knock me off my feet. Ok, that doesn't happen with the 5* side either.
So it will be interesting what you report.
I think $ 350 including shipping is actually pretty good, considering how much work goes into such a jacket. Shawn always makes his own pattern to match all the special requests and the quality is wonderful. I would have Shawn make a Cafe Racer out of buffalo or premium goat.

 

[Wardo1974]

I took a look at Lusso's side and it doesn't knock me off my feet. Ok, that doesn't happen with the 5* side either.
So it will be interesting what you report.
I think $ 350 including shipping is actually pretty good, considering how much work goes into such a jacket. Shawn always makes his own pattern to match all the special requests and the quality is wonderful. I would have Shawn make a Cafe Racer out of buffalo or premium goat.

He recommended steerhide. I didn't see it mentioned on this thread. I wanted heavy, grainy.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Well, I was specifically citing the cafe racer style as my example, not the (pretty great) custom designs. A $350 cafe racer style isn't a draw like a totally one of a kind 5* offering at the same price.

My first Five Stars was a cafe racer - only way to get a $1000 cafe racer fit for $300. Problem with the Lusso cafe racer photos is they mostly look pretty shapeless and in the mall jacket realm, which is definitely not something you want from a cafe racer. They need to be trim and carefully cut. It's a hard style to get right and a generic racer is unlikely to fulfill the desires of most people on this site, but who knows? What pattern are you thinking of getting?

 

[Seb Lucas]

My trucker finally arrived today. Some quick first impression thoughts. I’m really really happy with how it turned out! Measurements worked out and the fit is like I wanted it. The premium seal goat exceeded my expectations! Really thick and sturdy and nice grain. Solid straight stitching.
Only downside would be that when it’s buttoned there is some excess material in the back around the waist as you can see on the picture below. I only gave pit to pit and hem measurements, to avois this I probably should have given waist measurements as well. But I don’t think it’s that bad. I can absolutely live with it. What do you guys think?

First two pics buttoned.

View attachment 297746 View attachment 297747

Unbuttoned

View attachment 297748 View attachment 297749

I have no issues with the back of this jacket and would consider that a good fit if it were mine. I think we can get a bit too obsessed with fit minutia. That said - I'm not crazy about the brass snaps - how are they? Do they feel cheap or solid?

 

[Wardo1974]

My first Five Stars was a cafe racer - only way to get a $1000 cafe racer fit for $300. Problem with the Lusso cafe racer photos is they mostly look pretty shapeless and in the mall jacket realm, which is definitely not something you want from a cafe racer. They need to be trim and carefully cut. It's a hard style to get right and a generic racer is unlikely to fulfill the desires of most people on this site, but who knows? What pattern are you thinking of getting?

I'm not plugging for Lusso here, I just mentioned them because they are local to me and would offer sizing customization like 5* does. I was trying to compare apples to apples for that aspect - custom sizing.

All I'm after is a CR, nothing dramatic, yet suiting my fit needs. But I did want badass leather.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I'm not plugging for Lusso here, I just mentioned them because they are local to me and would offer sizing customization like 5* does. I was trying to compare apples to apples for that aspect - custom sizing.

All I'm after is a CR, nothing dramatic, yet suiting my fit needs. But I did want badass leather.

I am simply providing feedback to your comments, that's all. You did ask if there was anything you were missing. You need a badass pattern too or the leather won't matter.

 

[Wardo1974]

I am simply providing feedback to your comments, that's all. You did ask if there was anything you were missing. You need a badass pattern too or the leather won't matter.

True enough. A CR seems badass for me at least!

Any feedback on what his steerhide is like? My impression of all the leather types so far is that it's on the thin side, not particularly grainy.

 

[ton312]

I don’t care much for those Lusso jackets. To me the leather looks well below the 5 star cow and even further below the 5 star goat. I did look at their IG and came across an LOL. They have the Schott restoration HW jacket posted...as their own?

 

[Wardo1974]

I'm not plugging for them, but a few things:

1.) Leather selection looks better than 5*.

2.) Live chat to actually interact with their "Shawn". My communication with Shawn is a once per day message because he's on the other side of the world. Telegram-like.

3.) Styles - do any 5* styles really impress on the website? The best ones I've seen are custom designs site members have posted.

It's reassuring though that so many support 5*. I'll honestly likely buy, I just want to be more certain of the leather.

 

[ton312]

I'm not plugging for them, but a few things:

1.) Leather selection looks better than 5*.

2.) Live chat to actually interact with their "Shawn". My communication with Shawn is a once per day message because he's on the other side of the world. Telegram-like.

3.) Styles - do any 5* styles really impress on the website? The best ones I've seen are custom designs site members have posted.

It's reassuring though that so many support 5*. I'll honestly likely buy, I just want to be more certain of the leather.

If you do I’d really recommend the goat. Here’s the type of grain you can expect.
Black:

Seal brown (you can see it will eventually patina in the cuff shot/ might take 800 years though)

Just to be clear though, these goat skins aren’t terribly heavy at all. That’s part of the appeal, but don’t expect a CXL type of weight or finish. I had the steerhide 5 star offers. It was OK. I like the goat much better.

 

[Wardo1974]

If you do I’d really recommend the goat. Here’s the type of grain you can expect.
Black:
View attachment 297926
Seal brown (you can see it will eventually patina in the cuff shot/ might take 800 years though)
View attachment 297927 View attachment 297928
Just to be clear though, these goat skins aren’t terribly heavy at all. That’s part of the appeal, but don’t expect a CXL type of weight or finish. I had the steerhide 5 star offers. It was OK. I like the goat much better.

Thanks Ton. I saw that you preferred the goat. I know though it's on the lighter side, and it seems suited to the designs you came up with. I wanted a more heavyweight feel. Why wasn't steer to your liking?

 

[ton312]

Thanks Ton. I saw that you preferred the goat. I know though it's on the lighter side, and it seems suited to the designs you came up with. I wanted a more heavyweight feel. Why wasn't steer to your liking?

It just felt a bit limp for steer. I expect steer to be more like what I’m used to from Vanson and Aero or JL. I am curious about the HH from 5 Star. That I would like to try. I donated my steer jacket to the lounge to be used as a fit jacket for folks considering 5 Star. It had sizing issues for me and the pattern was weird but it was of my choosing so I’m to blame for that. Keep your eye out for it in the classifieds and maybe you can grab it when it gets passed along and get a first hand experience with it.

 

[Wardo1974]

That's disappointing about steer then. Stiff, thick, robust...that's what I want.

I as well am intrigued by his HH. Shawn said when he gets it, it's in russet brown and seal. Those tones don't excite me though.

 

[MrProper]

I think I read somewhere that buffalo is 1.4 mm thick. Steer is 1.2mm. Goat 1.3 mm
My first 5* jacket made of seal goat weighs around 2 kg.
Steer would not be stiff enough for a CR. But I dont know, how the new steer is. Seal goat would be stiff enough for me with heavy cotton drill lining.

steer:

 

[torfjord]

I have no issues with the back of this jacket and would consider that a good fit if it were mine. I think we can get a bit too obsessed with fit minutia. That said - I'm not crazy about the brass snaps - how are they? Do they feel cheap or solid?

I thought obsessing over small details was one of the purposes of this place . But yes, I see your point.

The brass snaps look and feel good and solid to me. They are a bit generic though and I feel that maybe having 5* branded snap buttons would raise it to the next level. That’s nitpicking though.

 

[Seb Lucas]

If the saps are solid that's great. Do we know who made them? Is there a robust YKK equivalent for snaps?

Fit is a strange thing. I agree it is about being specific with what you like - but some things are micro to the point of absurdity. But it's all down to what you can stand, isn't it? I personally like longer, looser jackets and find some of the trim, short jackets on the forum ugly. But I don't have to wear them. There are also a small number jackets that are long and baggy and simply don't suit the wearer's build. I stay quiet there too.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I don’t care much for those Lusso jackets. To me the leather looks well below the 5 star cow and even further below the 5 star goat. I did look at their IG and came across an LOL. They have the Schott restoration HW jacket posted...as their own?
View attachment 297925

That's disturbing but might explain why this is the best looking cafe racer there.

 

[torfjord]

For sure. I've been looking for months. I've never seen a vintage one big enough for me. I'm strongly considering a new build from Aero but my past experiences make me wary in sizing.

I've basically decided to take a flyer on 5* if they have horse in a few months, try my sizing. If it works out I can apply the knowledge to Aeros or others. If I sell a used 5* in horse, I'd recoup more than a cowhide type.

If you don’t mind patches: https://www.ebay.com/itm/174408518334

 

[Cocker]

Forgot to post this here, but I received my D-1 about 3 weeks ago. It's been my go to jacket since then, perfect for the actual weather. Shawn did a helluva job, fit is bang on what I requested. I couldn't be happier with a jacket!