Five Star Leather Jackets

[Marc mndt]

This happens with a lot of leather jackets- from a lot of makers. It’s bothered me for some time that when I raise my arms to drive that my shoulders go up and that pulls the whole jacket up (in some cases). I don’t know enough about pattern making to suggest a fix.

Maybe it has something to do with the height of the armhole (lower armhole allowing for more movement). Or with the sturdiness of the leather: I don't have this 'problem' with a calf leather fashion jacket. Maybe @Carlos840 knows what causes the issue.

 

[MrProper]

I think it depends on the style of the jacket, whether it bothers you or not. Based on this post, I took a look at my jackets and found that boxy shoulders were often caused by the angle being too steep. Even without raising my arms. In direct comparison, my well-fitting jackets all had a slightly less steep angle. I mean that this phenomenon is related to how well the shoulder fits. And probably also with how flat / steep the angle is from neck to shoulder. Science in itself ;-)

 

[handymike]

Shoulder slope is another issue. As well as where the neck hole is cut into the body of the jacket. Too far forward gives those vertical lines as you push back on the jacket to stand up straight. This is where back length comes into play as well. I wondered why my Goodwear measured an inch less than my Aero down the back but fit the same in length. The neck was back...

 

[Cornelius]

Anyone with an ANJ-4 want to try this pose? I suspect the underarm gussett of that pattern was designed to address an issue like this.

The slight two-tone on this Lost Worlds model makes it a bit more obvious:

 

[handymike]

I think those “footballs” are part of the solution.

 

[ton312]

I read a few pages from the 5* thread on the VLJ forum. There seems to be an issue with 5* jacket' shoulders being too square. The issue is demonstrated in these photo's:
View attachment 283451

Then they compare 5* with Avirex. View attachment 283452
The conclusion they draw is that the 5* pattern is inferior.

I'm not sure why one would raise their arms like this in a real life situation. But I was curious anyway and so I tried this position with my Thedi, E.L.M.C, FL, and HD. Without exception all my jackets had materials bunching up just like the 5*.

Which made me wonder...is this strictly an A2 'thing'? Or are the patterns for my jackets inferior? Or is this a non-issue and is this an example of complaining for the sake of complaining?

That Avirex is just a leather garbage bag with knits! Look at that arm hole!! Bigger than my waist. That is the epitome of an awful fit imho. Everything about it is just plain awful.

 

[ton312]

Another thing I don’t understand...why do these guys want rounded droopy shoulders? Looks weak. Shoulder seam hanging off the actual shoulder...not a good look. The sweatpants equivalent of a leather jacket.

 

[leper-colony]

I think the point being made was why change the label, pocket flaps, and maybe collar and use a same base jacket body. Those are not the only points the shift from period maker to maker.

 

[rockandrollrabbit]

The reason for this is addressed somewhere in that thread, I can't look for it right now. It's definitely a function of the angle at which the arms are sewn on. I think for hard core A-2 enthusiasts it comes down to how accurately a particular contract is recreated. Broncos had famously square shoulders. Dubows, for instance, did not.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Yeah my Aero Sheene does that too. I think it is the arm hole size mostly as Ton mentioned. Basically the sleeve is back flushing with no where to go. Unless you're planning on wearing a leather jacket to a crucifixion and want to look perfectly symmetrical, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[rockandrollrabbit]

Arms raised out by the side is a highly popular pose for WWII re-enactors pretending to be aeroplanes and, thus, an essential feature of any flying jacket is rounded shoulders.

Dude, you win the internet today.

 

[Claybertrand]

Another thing I don’t understand...why do these guys want rounded droopy shoulders? Looks weak. Shoulder seam hanging off the actual shoulder...not a good look. The sweatpants equivalent of a leather jacket.

Earth Scorched sir

 

[MrProper]

Another thing I don’t understand...why do these guys want rounded droopy shoulders? Looks weak. Shoulder seam hanging off the actual shoulder...not a good look. The sweatpants equivalent of a leather jacket.

it was once written somewhere. looked like a sack of potatoes during the war and must therefore look like a sack of potatoes today. since people used to only get what was in stock, it was probably a game of chance to look good. the question is why today?

 

[bn1966]

Looks like 5 Star are getting to grips with the ‘shoulder’ thing with their current A-2 project..posting over on VLJ..looks great I’d have one if I didn’t have an ELC Monarch already (1 A-2 is enough for me).

 

[MrProper]

it was once written somewhere. looked like a sack of potatoes during the war and must therefore look like a sack of potatoes today. since people used to only get what was in stock, it was probably a game of chance to look good. the question is why today?

but to be fair ... there are also some who look cool in their jackets and who fits well

 

[Monitor]

but to be fair ... there are also some who look cool in their jackets and who fits well

Usually when wearing a A-2 that's five sizes too small. Then you can hope to get some kind of silhouette outa that thing, otherwise it's a highway to Michelin man fit.

My favorite bit of movie trivia that in The Great Escape, McQueen looks cool despite the jacket, not because of it.

 

[bn1966]

Usually when wearing a A-2 that's five sizes too small. Then you can hope to get some kind of silhouette outa that thing, otherwise it's a highway to Michelin man fit.

My favorite bit of movie trivia that in The Great Escape, McQueen looks cool despite the jacket, not because of it.

Had to pass my First A-2 on because it fittted like a straitjacket, lots of flattering comments given but it was a size too small. Went up a size..comfortable fit and hopefully not a sack like profile

 

[Fonzie]

Arms raised out by the side is a highly popular pose for WWII re-enactors pretending to be aeroplanes and, thus, an essential feature of any flying jacket is rounded shoulders.

LOL! I think this is the funniest and most accurate post I’ve read in years on the TFL!

 

[Monitor]

I think there are prejudices against Pakistan from some there. It cannot be that a Pakistani producer simply replicates the good American goods for a third of the price and does it well.

Some of the VLJ members are grade a bigots. My IRL friend who used to be a regular contributor there & generally a very respected member due to his tremendous amount of knowledge on A-2's, had several times gotten crap for, basically, not being American. People'd call him out for stating a fact, saying crap like "How would YOU know?", even tho he was right.

StyleForum can be nasty but nothing comes close to some of the junk I've read on VLJ.

Another thing I don’t understand...why do these guys want rounded droopy shoulders? Looks weak. Shoulder seam hanging off the actual shoulder...not a good look. The sweatpants equivalent of a leather jacket.

Authenticity, I guess? It's hilarious, in a way. Crap fit is the whole point of an A-2. It's made that way to fit ANYONE over ANYTHING. It's shapeless, angle-less, featureless bulb for a reason. I mean, it makes sense for a war garment. You don't wear it, you're shrouded by it. Who'd want to fuss with the fit when you gotta stay alive but whining about the shoulders actually not looking like a leather sack is funny.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Authenticity, I guess? It's hilarious, in a way. Crap fit is the whole point of an A-2. It's made that way to fit ANYONE over ANYTHING. It's shapeless, angle-less, featureless bulb for a reason. I mean, it makes sense for a war garment. You don't wear it, you're shrouded by it. Who'd want to fuss with the fit when you gotta stay alive but whining about the shoulders actually not looking like a leather sack is funny.

I'm not an A2 fan, nor do I own one, and some A2 buffs are total wankers, but there are quite a few people who have posted fit pictures I have seen that make them look pretty cool. I do prefer the G1 but the A2 can and does look good to some of us.