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Five Star Leather Jackets

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,324
This happens with a lot of leather jackets- from a lot of makers. It’s bothered me for some time that when I raise my arms to drive that my shoulders go up and that pulls the whole jacket up (in some cases). I don’t know enough about pattern making to suggest a fix.
Maybe it has something to do with the height of the armhole (lower armhole allowing for more movement). Or with the sturdiness of the leather: I don't have this 'problem' with a calf leather fashion jacket. Maybe @Carlos840 knows what causes the issue.
 

MrProper

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Messages
4,344
Location
Europe
I think it depends on the style of the jacket, whether it bothers you or not. Based on this post, I took a look at my jackets and found that boxy shoulders were often caused by the angle being too steep. Even without raising my arms. In direct comparison, my well-fitting jackets all had a slightly less steep angle. I mean that this phenomenon is related to how well the shoulder fits. And probably also with how flat / steep the angle is from neck to shoulder. Science in itself ;-)
 
Messages
11,165
Location
SoCal
Shoulder slope is another issue. As well as where the neck hole is cut into the body of the jacket. Too far forward gives those vertical lines as you push back on the jacket to stand up straight. This is where back length comes into play as well. I wondered why my Goodwear measured an inch less than my Aero down the back but fit the same in length. The neck was back...
 

Cornelius

Practically Family
Messages
715
Location
Great Lakes
Anyone with an ANJ-4 want to try this pose? I suspect the underarm gussett of that pattern was designed to address an issue like this.

The slight two-tone on this Lost Worlds model makes it a bit more obvious:
Lost.Worlds.ANJ-4-2B.jpg
 
Messages
17,508
Location
Chicago
I read a few pages from the 5* thread on the VLJ forum. There seems to be an issue with 5* jacket' shoulders being too square. The issue is demonstrated in these photo's:
View attachment 283451

Then they compare 5* with Avirex. View attachment 283452
The conclusion they draw is that the 5* pattern is inferior.

I'm not sure why one would raise their arms like this in a real life situation. But I was curious anyway and so I tried this position with my Thedi, E.L.M.C, FL, and HD. Without exception all my jackets had materials bunching up just like the 5*.

Which made me wonder...is this strictly an A2 'thing'? Or are the patterns for my jackets inferior? Or is this a non-issue and is this an example of complaining for the sake of complaining?
That Avirex is just a leather garbage bag with knits! Look at that arm hole!! Bigger than my waist. That is the epitome of an awful fit imho. Everything about it is just plain awful.
 

leper-colony

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
Tampa Bay
I think the point being made was why change the label, pocket flaps, and maybe collar and use a same base jacket body. Those are not the only points the shift from period maker to maker.
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,286
Yeah my Aero Sheene does that too. I think it is the arm hole size mostly as Ton mentioned. Basically the sleeve is back flushing with no where to go. Unless you're planning on wearing a leather jacket to a crucifixion and want to look perfectly symmetrical, I wouldn't worry about it.
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,344
Location
Europe
Another thing I don’t understand...why do these guys want rounded droopy shoulders? Looks weak. Shoulder seam hanging off the actual shoulder...not a good look. The sweatpants equivalent of a leather jacket.

it was once written somewhere. looked like a sack of potatoes during the war and must therefore look like a sack of potatoes today. since people used to only get what was in stock, it was probably a game of chance to look good. the question is why today?
 

bn1966

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,111
Location
UK
Looks like 5 Star are getting to grips with the ‘shoulder’ thing with their current A-2 project..posting over on VLJ..looks great I’d have one if I didn’t have an ELC Monarch already (1 A-2 is enough for me).
 
Messages
16,842
but to be fair ... there are also some who look cool in their jackets and who fits well

Usually when wearing a A-2 that's five sizes too small. Then you can hope to get some kind of silhouette outa that thing, otherwise it's a highway to Michelin man fit.

My favorite bit of movie trivia that in The Great Escape, McQueen looks cool despite the jacket, not because of it.
 

bn1966

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,111
Location
UK
Usually when wearing a A-2 that's five sizes too small. Then you can hope to get some kind of silhouette outa that thing, otherwise it's a highway to Michelin man fit.

My favorite bit of movie trivia that in The Great Escape, McQueen looks cool despite the jacket, not because of it.


Had to pass my First A-2 on because it fittted like a straitjacket, lots of flattering comments given but it was a size too small. Went up a size..comfortable fit and hopefully not a sack like profile
 
Messages
16,842
I think there are prejudices against Pakistan from some there. It cannot be that a Pakistani producer simply replicates the good American goods for a third of the price and does it well.

Some of the VLJ members are grade a bigots. My IRL friend who used to be a regular contributor there & generally a very respected member due to his tremendous amount of knowledge on A-2's, had several times gotten crap for, basically, not being American. People'd call him out for stating a fact, saying crap like "How would YOU know?", even tho he was right.

StyleForum can be nasty but nothing comes close to some of the junk I've read on VLJ.

Another thing I don’t understand...why do these guys want rounded droopy shoulders? Looks weak. Shoulder seam hanging off the actual shoulder...not a good look. The sweatpants equivalent of a leather jacket.

Authenticity, I guess? It's hilarious, in a way. Crap fit is the whole point of an A-2. It's made that way to fit ANYONE over ANYTHING. It's shapeless, angle-less, featureless bulb for a reason. I mean, it makes sense for a war garment. You don't wear it, you're shrouded by it. Who'd want to fuss with the fit when you gotta stay alive but whining about the shoulders actually not looking like a leather sack is funny.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
Authenticity, I guess? It's hilarious, in a way. Crap fit is the whole point of an A-2. It's made that way to fit ANYONE over ANYTHING. It's shapeless, angle-less, featureless bulb for a reason. I mean, it makes sense for a war garment. You don't wear it, you're shrouded by it. Who'd want to fuss with the fit when you gotta stay alive but whining about the shoulders actually not looking like a leather sack is funny.

I'm not an A2 fan, nor do I own one, and some A2 buffs are total wankers, but there are quite a few people who have posted fit pictures I have seen that make them look pretty cool. I do prefer the G1 but the A2 can and does look good to some of us.
 

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