Five Star Leather Jackets

[Rugby]

You could try Dena at leather care specialists. She works on all my vintage stuff. Flawless every time.

Thanks. Just looked it up. It's in the Chicago area. Excellent. Thanks again.

 

[js0930]

Thanks. Just looked it up. It's in the Chicago area. Excellent. Thanks again.

Leather Sewing PDX does great work (I had them take an inch off the sleeves of a Vanson and the work is flawless), but I don’t know how easy they’d be to work with if you weren’t in the area.

 

[Rugby]

Leather Sewing PDX does great work (I had them take an inch off the sleeves of a Vanson and the work is flawless), but I don’t know how easy they’d be to work with if you weren’t in the area.

Where are they? I'm in the DC metro area

 

[Rugby]

Leather Sewing PDX does great work (I had them take an inch off the sleeves of a Vanson and the work is flawless), but I don’t know how easy they’d be to work with if you weren’t in the area.

Ok. I looked it up. Oregon. Well, 5* are in Pakistan. Thanks. It's good to have options. The modifications I want may be a bit more demanding than shortening sleeves, as I need some puffiness taken off the waist which may involve ripping the lining.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Ok. I looked it up. Oregon. Well, 5* are in Pakistan. Thanks. It's good to have options. The modifications I want may be a bit more demanding than shortening sleeves, as I need some puffiness taken off the waist which may involve ripping the lining.

@Rugby I would suggest to use a local dry cleaner / alteration type shop for your alteration. Tapering the body is not a complicated job. I got one of my SB jackets done locally in Vancouver a few years back and was less than 100 bucks.
The upside about using local alteration is the personal fitting. They will use the clips to show you how much they will take in. So you will get the exact sizing / fit you want. In the unlikely event they mess up the stitching, you will still end up with a perfectly fitted jacket for reference down the road.

Top 10 Best leather alterations in Washington, DC

• Kim's Custom Tailor. 3.1 mi. 54 reviews. ...
• Best Fit Tailoring. 1.3 mi. Sewing & Alterations. ...
• Stephen the Tailor. 1.1 mi. 90 reviews. ...
• JC Lofton Tailors. 0.5 mi. ...
• Master Tailors of Georgetown. 1.5 mi. ...
• Seleh's De Federal Hill. 33.7 mi. ...
• Tailor By Bike. 0.4 mi. ...
• Besson's Cleansing. 0.2 mi.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Here's a look at that beautiful custom goathide he made especially for the Dubow. View attachment 416108 View attachment 416109

This is the one.

The only aniline finish leather from Shawn I believe. I missed out. Hope it becomes available down the road again.

Very nice jacket @Imuricecreamman

 

[Rugby]

@Rugby I would suggest to use a local dry cleaner / alteration type shop for your alteration. Tapering the body is not a complicated job. I got one of my SB jackets done locally in Vancouver a few years back and was less than 100 bucks.
The upside about using local alteration is the personal fitting. They will use the clips to show you how much they will take in. So you will get the exact sizing / fit you want. In the unlikely event they mess up the stitching, you will still end up with a perfectly fitted jacket for reference down the road.

Top 10 Best leather alterations in Washington, DC

• Kim's Custom Tailor. 3.1 mi. 54 reviews. ...
• Best Fit Tailoring. 1.3 mi. Sewing & Alterations. ...
• Stephen the Tailor. 1.1 mi. 90 reviews. ...
• JC Lofton Tailors. 0.5 mi. ...
• Master Tailors of Georgetown. 1.5 mi. ...
• Seleh's De Federal Hill. 33.7 mi. ...
• Tailor By Bike. 0.4 mi. ...
• Besson's Cleansing. 0.2 mi.

Thanks @Canuck Panda, but I've looked at a few of those and they where quite hesitant to doing modifications on leather as just about all of them don't specialize in leather sewing. I agree a local business would be much better. I will ask around some more, but it's good to have a couple of options even if they're a couple of states west of here.

 

[js0930]

Ok. I looked it up. Oregon. Well, 5* are in Pakistan. Thanks. It's good to have options. The modifications I want may be a bit more demanding than shortening sleeves, as I need some puffiness taken off the waist which may involve ripping the lining.

Mine was a comp weight Vanson with a zippered sleeve, so not the simplest. Leather Sewing PDX is where Langlitz refers people for repairs - so she comes about as highly recommended as I can imagine. Don’t know whether she’d do stuff by mail though. I did mine in person and having her show me exactly how long the sleeve would be post alteration was definitely helpful.

 

[Rugby]

Mine was a comp weight Vanson with a zippered sleeve, so not the simplest. Leather Sewing PDX is where Langlitz refers people for repairs - so she comes about as highly recommended as I can imagine. Don’t know whether she’d do stuff by mail though. I did mine in person and having her show me exactly how long the sleeve would be post alteration was definitely helpful.

Yeah, that's the best situation. I've got to do much more research around here in the DMV region for leather repair shops, because although rare, I've found some good deals on ebay for "pre-owned" jackets that would fit me approximately but I just don't wanna pull the trigger. Waist and sleeves being the sticky issues.

 

[Gr8Lakes]

Yeah, that's the best situation. I've got to do much more research around here in the DMV region for leather repair shops, because although rare, I've found some good deals on ebay for "pre-owned" jackets that would fit me approximately but I just don't wanna pull the trigger. Waist and sleeves being the sticky issues.

Here’s my local guy. He doesn’t even advertise jackets, but has fixed a few for me (Zippers, snaps, and a relining). He currently has a zipped sleeve moto that I wanted sleeves shortened on. Dena quoted me $250 (I really don’t think she wanted the job.). He’s doing it for less than half that. Point being, if you have any leather shoe repair shops nearby, enquire about leather jackets. If a tailor can stitch shoe leather in straight line, they can sew a leather jacket. …And the smell in his shop, old building woodwork and leather… like heaven!

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[Aloysius]

Where are they? I'm in the DC metro area

Bedo's Leatherworks is the place, in the DC area. I recently discovered they started a flourishing YouTube channel, detailing their work on a number of products. I watched a beautiful alteration on a Schott racing shirt.

 

[Rugby]

Bedo's Leatherworks is the place, in the DC area. I recently discovered they started a flourishing YouTube channel, detailing their work on a number of products. I watched a beautiful alteration on a Schott racing shirt.

DAMN!! This is it! Thank you so much! I'm going to take a couple of jackets there.

 

[rcdcr]

I also have my own opinions about Shawn's current cossack pattern.

From the numbers on the website, it looks like a lower armhole one. Which in my experience is no good. Especially when it gets nips and tucks for custom measurements.

View attachment 411169

It would be worth it to get the cossacks made with the higher arm hole pattern block. 5Star low arm hole pattern block felt too big and too small at the same time. Example my most recent winters HB, and most of my early 5Stars.

And shorten the cuff neck height.

This is what others brands are doing for cossacks. I am not getting a 5Star cossack until I see pattern upgrades from the first generations.

View attachment 411191

I believe Shawn's current cossack was based on the Himel Heron, sizing and all. But Himel pattern is a bit different, so it's impossible to copy correctly given just the photos and measurements. That's why the current 5Star cossack looks off to me. It's best Shawn just switch to his own pattern block which would just hit it outta the park.

View attachment 411192
Himel shoulders are narrow (only) on paper, and cuff neck also looks long on photo. But I have a Himel (different design) and it fits very different in real life vs what's on paper/photo. This is not one that could be easily copied without an actual jacket.

Shawn's slim fit HB pattern block is basically a hybrid SB/Thedi armhole with Aero new shoulders. There I've said it the cats out of the bag. It's good enough to compete in the big leagues. There is no point copying what the Himel looks on paper and not use what he already has that works better. Just saying.

So I've been planning a custom cossack jacket from 5Star and this post is super helpful!
How long are the cuffs on the SB jacket in that picture, do you know? that looks like a better length for sure

 

[DamonCyclee]

DAMN!! This is it! Thank you so much! I'm going to take a couple of jackets there.

He has super long wait time last time I heard, but just amazing work if done by Steve himself. If not Steve then YMMV

 

[Rugby]

He has super long wait time last time I heard, but just amazing work if done by Steve himself. If not Steve then YMMV

I'm going there on Friday to discuss details. If Steve is not available or the wait time is more than a month, I've found a backup place that, according to them, have experience in leather modifications. Getting a jacket right is an adventure. I am already compiling my pdf requirements document like @MrProper for the next attempt to a good fitting 5* jacket right off the blocks

 

[Canuck Panda]

I'm going there on Friday to discuss details. If Steve is not available or the wait time is more than a month, I've found a backup place that, according to them, have experience in leather modifications. Getting a jacket right is an adventure. I am already compiling my pdf requirements document like @MrProper for the next attempt to a good fitting 5* jacket right off the blocks

I watch his youtube videos. Maybe he can do one on your jacket alteration!
He has mentioned that he has another lady working in his shop specifically working on garments.

 

[Canuck Panda]

So I've been planning a custom cossack jacket from 5Star and this post is super helpful!
How long are the cuffs on the SB jacket in that picture, do you know? that looks like a better length for sure

 

[Rugby]

View attachment 416414

That SB cossack is a beautiful jacket

 

[Aloysius]

So I've been planning a custom cossack jacket from 5Star and this post is super helpful!

The key to a good Cossack (or Five Star in general) is a three letter combination:

C H L

I watch his youtube videos. Maybe he can do one on your jacket alteration!
He has mentioned that he has another lady working in his shop specifically working on garments.

I would imagine he’s not going to let a repair go out that is subpar. They’d be allocated according to whoever does that task best.

 

[Canuck Panda]

No CHL. I know it's a joke but that guy is new. The new horse hides would be the top choice for leather.