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Five Star Leather Jackets

Messages
16,842
It's funny how their jackets get $10 more expensive with every size you go up. I don't know any other maker who does this, but I actually think it makes sense. Why would a size 50 be the same price as a size 38. I think the difference in materials used is considerable. View attachment 273801

Mostly all makers that I know of have an up-charge for a larger (or really small) jackets, but it doesn't change with a single size number, which is an interesting approach. But try going to any site you can think of and select a really large jacket size, like sz. 50 or more and the price should jump for as much as $100 or more.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,324
Mostly all makers that I know of have an up-charge for a larger (or really small) jackets, but it doesn't change with a single size number, which is an interesting approach. But try going to any site you can think of and select a really large jacket size, like sz. 50 or more and the price should jump for as much as $100 or more.
I just checked aero, elmc / Eastman and Schott. Price doesn't change with size. Bill kelso is still down. Thedi doesn't show their prices.
 
Messages
17,508
Location
Chicago
It should be noted that Russet goat is more like chocolate and has more topcoat than seal. At least if nothing has changed in the meantime.
Yeah I think he has this version with a bit more red in it now:
Capture.JPG

This is what I'm using. The other russet reminds me of LW's more flat chocolate milk colored brown.
 

Bahabp100

Practically Family
Messages
855
I’ve increased the degree of difficulty. Made some more very specific requests. This one should be quite special indeed.[/QUOTE]

Roughly what was the cost?
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,286
the thicker top coat would definitely help retain the color. My Seal brown steer is chipping like a mofo around the seams and what not. It'll be cool if you're going for that patina look. So if the Russet is deeper top coat, should retain the color.

From the samples he sent me couple weeks ago, I only have the semi veg reddish brown goat and cowhide red. The semi veg is on the thin side, but seems pretty tough. Very stretchy though, so if you go with that, be careful with measurements. Both the cow and the goat color wise are definiteley more milk chocolate. As you guys know my story, be careful with the pictures on the website when it comes to colors. I'd ask him for a comparison of a few colors and have him include some sort of known color reference like a silver coin, banana, whatever so you can figure it out.

Good luck with the next one.
 
Messages
17,508
Location
Chicago
the thicker top coat would definitely help retain the color. My Seal brown steer is chipping like a mofo around the seams and what not. It'll be cool if you're going for that patina look. So if the Russet is deeper top coat, should retain the color.

From the samples he sent me couple weeks ago, I only have the semi veg reddish brown goat and cowhide red. The semi veg is on the thin side, but seems pretty tough. Very stretchy though, so if you go with that, be careful with measurements. Both the cow and the goat color wise are definiteley more milk chocolate. As you guys know my story, be careful with the pictures on the website when it comes to colors. I'd ask him for a comparison of a few colors and have him include some sort of known color reference like a silver coin, banana, whatever so you can figure it out.

Good luck with the next one.
I think this hide is relatively new. I don't think the samples you received are the same...but I would be curious to see the red goat you've got. Can you post a pic?
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,286
I think this hide is relatively new. I don't think the samples you received are the same...but I would be curious to see the red goat you've got. Can you post a pic?

kids ate the bananas and no one giving out change anymore, so used a very green branch against a more "reddish" brown piece of furniture. As you can see, more chocolate than anything. Maybe, just maybe, some rust sort of color in there too.

UhrUicl.jpg
 

Pandemic

One Too Many
Messages
1,503
Location
In The Flat Field
Base price of the J100 clone in size 38 is $150 plus shipping. I emailed Shawn for a ballpark price upgraded to his best leather and hardware, but he is asking for detailed specs and measurements. I have a new jacket in production in Scotland right now and really shouldn’t be ordering anything more. But I’ve had a stressful year and a shot of scotch, so ....
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,286
Took delivery of a custom cossack jacket from five star today. It's their cossack pattern, but with a smaller collar and leather on the inside of the lapels. I'll attach a few photos. It's in premium black steerhide.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with the jacket! If I were to do it all again (and I may!), I would have perhaps gone with the premium goat but who knows since I haven't seen that in the flesh either. For me, the steerhide is very nice and has a good heft to it, but is perhaps a little shinier than I would have chosen in an ideal world.

It's a great jacket. The main two issues are (1) the buttons -- they're the premium horn buttons, but they seem pretty flimsy. Two of them have already lost the backing reinforcement, right on the first unbuttoning the jacket straight out of the bag. Snapped right off... But oh well. And (2) the arms: I specified the length, which is all good. But I should have also given other dimensions... the armhole is bigger than I would've thought necessary. If I were to re-do it, I'd probably specify a smaller hole, and a stronger taper on the sleeves as well. Another knock-on of this big armhole (12in on a jacket that is 21.5 pit-to-pit) is that the pit-to-pit measurement is lower than where you'd normally expect it to be...maybe that's why the chest area is a bit looser than I had anticipated. But equally I'm very new to this so I may have just got the measurements not quite right. If anything looks very off (I'll shove a photo on of me wearing it), please do say so, so that I can get it better in any future jackets I might buy (I won't be offended!).

But hey ho, overall I'm pretty pleased with it! I started a thread on here a while ago looking for ideas for a simple cossack jacket. My favourites were the MF Campus, the Himel Bros Heron, and the LVC Menlo. I didn't have the money for any of them, and couldn't decide which I preferred anyway, so... this is a frankenjacket of the three! It's my first leather jacket, and I'm not even sure if I suit one or what style I like the best, so this company seemed like a pretty good solution to that. I'll wear it a while, and if I end up suiting it or really liking the style, perhaps I'll invest in a really good one.

View attachment 274767 View attachment 274768 View attachment 274769 View attachment 274770 View attachment 274771 View attachment 274772 View attachment 274773 View attachment 274774 View attachment 274775

I think your experience is typical for most of us that have ordered. There's a lot of new people on this thread coming over from Ton's thread about his jacket and how perfect it ended up turning out, so it's a good reminder to maybe read several pages back to get the whole story. If someone is expecting to nail your jacket (especially a custom) on the first try without doing your research or just understanding some of the pitfalls, I wish you luck.

You need to be extra precise on what you order. Don't expect them to flag something like hey your shoulder measurement is going to look weird against that p2p or whatever. They're going to do exactly what you say or worse, if you're not specific, they probably keep the base measurement of whatever size you were closest too to start with. And don't say things like "a little bit bigger" or "slightly smaller". So cross reference several of your jackets to get the measurements you like. Provide pictures and diagrams. Don't just tell him I want wrist opening 5 inches. Is that inside or outside circumference? Is that one side measured flat, etc. You have to show him and tell in specific detail.

You're going to get a good jacket regardless from a quality/construction to price point, but some of the details are going to be off.

For your jacket though, you did pretty good. The obvious problem is the mid ab section down to the bottom hem. That looks off at least 1 inch on each side. What you could do since it's not zipper and you don't have to worry about the waves, is dunk the bottom half of the jacket in hot water, get it soaked, let it drip a little bit and then blast it in the dryer. It should shrink and come in. Check it every 20 minutes or so until it gets to where you want it and then air dry it the rest.

I can't testify to the leather quality to stand up to it, but I've done on a lot of jackets. Just did it to my 60 year old Brooks I got and it came out fine.

And the buttons, yeah, I think Mr. Proper and Jin both mentioned how they swapped out their buttons for better quality.
 

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