Five Star Leather Jackets

[ton312]

Indeed being overly specific is the key!
For this jacket I asked for a size 44” block with following measurements:

Neck hole diameter: 18”
Shoulders: 19”
Chest p2p: 22.5”
Waist:20.5”
Hem:21”
Sleeve:26.5” (Outseam)
Sleeve: 19” (inseam/pit to cuff)-high armhole
Bicep:8.5”
Elbow:7”
Cuff:6”
Armscye: 11”
1” front drop
26” back length
4.5” collar point (wide collar)
I’m going to give this jacket it’s own thread with lots of pics later today because I think it deserves one!

 

[Marc mndt]

Indeed being overly specific is the key!
For this jacket I asked for a size 44” block with following measurements:

Neck hole diameter: 18”
Shoulders: 19”
Chest p2p: 22.5”
Waist:20.5”
Hem:21”
Sleeve:26.5” (Outseam)
Sleeve: 19” (inseam/pit to cuff)-high armhole
Bicep:8.5”
Elbow:7”
Cuff:6”
Armscye: 11”
1” front drop
26” back length
4.5” collar point (wide collar)
I’m going to give this jacket it’s own thread with lots of pics later today because I think it deserves one!

Can't wait to see the pics!

 

[Seb Lucas]

Indeed being overly specific is the key!
For this jacket I asked for a size 44” block with following measurements:

Neck hole diameter: 18”
Shoulders: 19”
Chest p2p: 22.5”
Waist:20.5”
Hem:21”
Sleeve:26.5” (Outseam)
Sleeve: 19” (inseam/pit to cuff)-high armhole
Bicep:8.5”
Elbow:7”
Cuff:6”
Armscye: 11”
1” front drop
26” back length
4.5” collar point (wide collar)
I’m going to give this jacket it’s own thread with lots of pics later today because I think it deserves one!

Nice work, ton.

 

[red devil]

Indeed being overly specific is the key!
For this jacket I asked for a size 44” block with following measurements:

Neck hole diameter: 18”
Shoulders: 19”
Chest p2p: 22.5”
Waist:20.5”
Hem:21”
Sleeve:26.5” (Outseam)
Sleeve: 19” (inseam/pit to cuff)-high armhole
Bicep:8.5”
Elbow:7”
Cuff:6”
Armscye: 11”
1” front drop
26” back length
4.5” collar point (wide collar)
I’m going to give this jacket it’s own thread with lots of pics later today because I think it deserves one!

Had to look up armscye lol
All the other arm measurements - such as biceps and elbows - are taken flat as well?

I am nowhere near as knowledgeable on fit and measurement as a lot of people here

 

[ton312]

Had to look up armscye lol
All the other arm measurements - such as biceps and elbows - are taken flat as well?

I am nowhere near as knowledgeable on fit and measurement as a lot of people here

That’s correct RD. Taken flat and based tweaked on other jackets. The armscye/arm hole diameter gave me absolute fits. I hate low arm holes, they absolutely ruin a jacket. I think Shawn and I exchanged around 10 emails on this alone. Including the sleeve inseam I think is a good idea to ensure higher armholes. This is as close as I can come to a full bespoke jacket without actually visiting the maker and being measured, which is cool!

 

[Cornelius]

I hate low arm holes, they absolutely ruin a jacket.

I 100% agree. As much as I would like to support hometown boys Horween, this pattern issue has been for me the biggest turn-off from buying an Aero (not that I could presently afford one during Covid, but still).

 

[Marc mndt]

I 100% agree. As much as I would like to support hometown boys Horween, this pattern issue has been for me the biggest turn-off from buying an Aero (not that I could presently afford one during Covid, but still).

What about Aero's premier range? They have higher arm holes right?

 

[MrProper]

^^
My Aero Coastal Command also has high armholes. Unfortunately not my Cafe Racer. I hope that my "Slim Fit Motorcycle Jacket" also has high armholes. I'll see that next week.

 

[Pandemic]

What’s the consensus on their best quality leather (for cafe racer style)? Premium goat? Thanks!

 

[ton312]

What’s the consensus on their best quality leather (for cafe racer style)? Premium goat? Thanks!

I like the goat much more than the steer. It’s thicker but also a bit lighter. Much more character. The sun isn’t cooperating at all today so my review is rain delayed until tomorrow. But I will post outdoor shots so you can see the seal brown goat.

 

[Bahabp100]

Is the paper in the seam from the back of this label?

 

[Marc mndt]

Is the paper in the seam from the back of this label? View attachment 273219

What would they mean by 'always keep on a hanger'? Why do they even bother adding this label?

 

[Bahabp100]

What would they mean by 'always keep on a hanger'? Why do they even bother adding this label?

Probably a generic care label but, Possibly a law like made in USA law, must list country 0f manufacture, or maybe not. Who knows?

 

[Claybertrand]

Indeed being overly specific is the key!
For this jacket I asked for a size 44” block with following measurements:

Neck hole diameter: 18”
Shoulders: 19”
Chest p2p: 22.5”
Waist:20.5”
Hem:21”
Sleeve:26.5” (Outseam)
Sleeve: 19” (inseam/pit to cuff)-high armhole
Bicep:8.5”
Elbow:7”
Cuff:6”
Armscye: 11”
1” front drop
26” back length
4.5” collar point (wide collar)
I’m going to give this jacket it’s own thread with lots of pics later today because I think it deserves one!

Ton, please include these measurements in the dedicated thread. Your jacket thread can be both blueprint and showroom.

I started a photo file last night strictly to collect pics of styles and details I'd like to have in a 5Star. I have also ceased all buying activities to save up for some custom creations. Can't wait for your thread.

 

[ton312]

Ton, please include these measurements in the dedicated thread. Your jacket thread can be both blueprint and showroom.

I started a photo file last night strictly to collect pics of styles and details I'd like to have in a 5Star. I have also ceased all buying activities to save up for some custom creations. Can't wait for your thread.

It’s all here: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/5-1950’s-all-weather-half-belt-repro-seal-brown-goat.102109/
Will get daylight pics soon!

 

[sweetfights]

My 50’s all weather repro arrived. I am exceedingly happy with it. Shawn nailed every single fit and design point right to the ground. I just opened the bag (still not a fan of that) and had to snap a pic. I’ll get better when the light returns. I’ll be wearing the absolute shit out of this.
View attachment 272963

Very nice Ton. What type of leather is that? I wish he would mail out samples of his shinki.
Enjoy that fine fitting jacket Ton!

 

[sweetfights]

Very nice Ton. What type of leather is that? I wish he would mail out samples of his shinki.
Enjoy that fine fitting jacket Ton!

Never mind- GOAT it is!

 

[ton312]

Very nice Ton. What type of leather is that? I wish he would mail out samples of his shinki.
Enjoy that fine fitting jacket Ton!

Thanks man! It’s seal brown goat. Nice hide. Lots of drape but enough body to feel substantial. Turns out goat hide is pretty kick ass!

 

[Seb Lucas]

I 100% agree. As much as I would like to support hometown boys Horween, this pattern issue has been for me the biggest turn-off from buying an Aero (not that I could presently afford one during Covid, but still).

Wasn't aware this was a problem with Aeros. Just measured my 30's half-belt - 10 inch opening (size 44). That's fine by me. Maybe some of the others are really wide. My Wested Indy is 9 inches in a size 42 (surprising). 1960's Brooks 10 inches. Vanson Dakota 10 inches. Johnson Leathers car coat 11 inches.

 

[fulcanelli]

I ordered a G1 a couple of months back when 5* was blowing up on VLJ forum. I went for the premium seal goat and requested thickest hides they had. Shawn delivered at 1.6mm. I also increased the collar in all dimensions by 2cm this was a good move.

It’s a good jacket came to $270 shipped to Sweden too cold to wear it now though lol.

Flaws: the top layer of the leather can chip. I purposely rubbed my elbow on a rough wooden table at the playground in an effort to aid patination and got a bit more than I was expecting. Fortunately I like it but it might bother some.

The knitted cuffs could be improved. They are seamless but have a slight fuzzy quality - not terrible though.

I don’t like any of their lining options tbh. I wanted something warm and initially looked at their wool options but it’s not 100% wool it’s a blend with something. Eventually I went for the quilted lining and it’s not great. I think it’s poly something and doesn’t have that nice sheen / silky feel of rayon. Would definitely like to see more lining options.

All in all great job Shawn I am planning a custom vest probably after Xmas.