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Five Star Leather Jackets

Riu

Practically Family
Messages
703
Location
UK

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nattevagten

A-List Customer
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326
There are a few CR's, mine is steer. I like @MrProper's CR, probably the best I've seen from them.

Any reason to go for steer instead of the premium goathide? Checking their website, goat seems to be the default choice for their CR. Or is it just a question of which hide you prefer?
 
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Riu

Practically Family
Messages
703
Location
UK
Any reason to go for steer instead of the premium goathide? Checking their website, goat seems to be the default choice for their CR. Or is it just a question of which hide you prefer?

I would definitely recommend the goat, I went against the advice and my gut and ordered the steer on my first jacket but it’s dull. You can see in this picture comparison between the steer on the CR and the premium goat waxed and ironed considering that I wore the CR for months and the goat not for too long.

comp1.jpg
 

Hobbes1

A-List Customer
Messages
392
But I am still not convinced that this leather is suitable for jackets. It's like cardboard. Shoes or Roman leather armor could be made out of it lol

I have been emailing with Shawn about this leather in a jacket. Over the past month, he has mostly been M.I.A and not responsive to my emails. Two weeks ago I sent him a 7 page document with lots of pics....pretty much the finished idea for my third jacket from him. What I have decided, is not to push him to respond. The reason, is I am hoping for more people to "go first" to see how this leather really is...color, weight, ability to break in and how it then looks. What I really want to see is some of these jackets (or at least one) with significant wear time and what it then looks like. I don't want to get one made of the heavier (1.7mm, tan) Shawn-CXL and then hate it as it's "armor" that never relaxes/breaks-in or ages. The 2.2mm seems to me as too heavy for my tastes. But...I'm watching what others get and their experiences. Good luck to us all! :)
 

TheDonEffect

Practically Family
Messages
623
I wet the pockets and gave them a little shape. I like it better than when they are so smooth on the vest. But I am still not convinced that this leather is suitable for jackets. It's like cardboard. Shoes or Roman leather armor could be made out of it lol
View attachment 341426 View attachment 341427 View attachment 341428


I also wonder about the permanence of the tanning since others have said the wax runs when it gets wet. Alas, looks like there is going to be some growing pains with the new CXL.

My question to you is though, how does it smell?
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,286
Location
Europe
I also wonder about the permanence of the tanning since others have said the wax runs when it gets wet. Alas, looks like there is going to be some growing pains with the new CXL.

My question to you is though, how does it smell?

Unfortunately, it hardly smells at all. This typical leather smell is absent. Not to mention the fantastic smell of a FieldLeathers Shinki, Aero Vicenza or unfinished HH.
While I really appreciate Shawn's efforts to get us better leather, I would currently argue that the CXL is an early beta version.
I hope that the brown CXL is already one step further.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,652

That fit is perfection. Well Done!

I have been emailing with Shawn about this leather in a jacket. Over the past month, he has mostly been M.I.A and not responsive to my emails. Two weeks ago I sent him a 7 page document with lots of pics....pretty much the finished idea for my third jacket from him. What I have decided, is not to push him to respond. The reason, is I am hoping for more people to "go first" to see how this leather really is...color, weight, ability to break in and how it then looks. What I really want to see is some of these jackets (or at least one) with significant wear time and what it then looks like. I don't want to get one made of the heavier (1.7mm, tan) Shawn-CXL and then hate it as it's "armor" that never relaxes/breaks-in or ages. The 2.2mm seems to me as too heavy for my tastes. But...I'm watching what others get and their experiences. Good luck to us all! :)

I got one coming, in 2.2mm bag leather. But the underarm, side gussets and inside collar are 1.1 mm goatskin. I think this will solve the bag leather fit and comfort problem. If this works out it would be how I spec heavy leather from now on, even with other makers.

Ton312 has a full on 2.2mm armor jacket coming. Maybe the 2.2mm is different than the 1.7mm one. It be interesting to see what he gotta say about the new dark brown. He is the first one with this 2.2mm leather.

Mk 1, 2, 3...etc. This is the dark side of Fivestar. Proceed with caution!
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
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4,652
Do they have tumble machine? That would be a easy solution.

I am planning on a pounding session this weekend with my kitchen meat tenderizer mallet. Just to the side panels though.

I swear I seen a photo of his marketing here or on his website that shows a pic of a tumbling machine. Or I could be dreaming.
 

Hh121

Banned
Messages
3,004
I am planning on a pounding session this weekend with my kitchen meat tenderizer mallet. Just to the side panels though.

I swear I seen a photo of his marketing here or on his website that shows a pic of a tumbling machine. Or I could be dreaming.
You are right! Why not use it??
 

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Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
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4,652
2.2mm is 7/8 oz range. that just one step down from belt leather thickness 9/10 oz. Or doubling up two layers of horsehide together. It might just shorten the life of the tumbling machine with more wear and tear...

where is Ton312's DHL package! Why am I more excited/anxious about it than him...
 

Hh121

Banned
Messages
3,004
2.2mm is 7/8 oz range. that just one step down from belt leather thickness 9/10 oz. Or doubling up two layers of horsehide together. It might just shorten the life of the tumbling machine with more wear and tear...

where is Ton312's DHL package! Why am I more excited/anxious about it than him...
It's not 7/8oz.
2.2 mm is about 5.5 oz.
 

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Hobbes1

A-List Customer
Messages
392
You are right! Why not use it??

I have a (potentially ignorant) question: what is the difference between this (Shawn's tumbling machine) and your average home drier on "air" setting, no heat? I mean, a dedicated "tumbling machine" seems like it's for industrial use and a home drier seems like it would be ok for a single jacket. Am I missing something?
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,652
^^^I think its the same, home dryer and industrial tumbling machine. But they tumble the hides before making it into the jacket with zippers and lining...etc. I don't recommend using home dryer to tumble whole jackets for long period of time, because the zippers and lining will get worn down too, not just the leather. That's why I plan to use the meat mallet on the side panels manually. Saw how the shearling collar was made in the Mystero Thread and that gave me the idea.
 
Messages
17,476
Location
Chicago
2.2mm is 7/8 oz range. that just one step down from belt leather thickness 9/10 oz. Or doubling up two layers of horsehide together. It might just shorten the life of the tumbling machine with more wear and tear...

where is Ton312's DHL package! Why am I more excited/anxious about it than him...
It’s in Ohio! Hopefully it shows up early, scheduled to be delivered 6/21!! I’m dying to be crushed under this beast. LOL!!
 

TheDonEffect

Practically Family
Messages
623
Unfortunately, it hardly smells at all. This typical leather smell is absent. Not to mention the fantastic smell of a FieldLeathers Shinki, Aero Vicenza or unfinished HH.
While I really appreciate Shawn's efforts to get us better leather, I would currently argue that the CXL is an early beta version.
I hope that the brown CXL is already one step further.


Yeah, I'm figuring as much. The pictures of the HH and early CXL jackets aren't getting me to pull my wallet out and throw it at Sean just yet, this does seem to be very early in the beta stages. I've read that the wax runs, now the smell isn't there, but beyond that the graining and depth of color just isn't there yet. They just look like painted jackets.

Consider that there are presumably a bunch of tanneries trying to make premium leather and gain the notoriety of the brands you mentioned, and do so at a good price point, and yet only the usual suspects remain, I think it may be a while before Sean gets the recipe right if he elects to stick with it.

Of course I hope he succeeds though, I mean getting a Horween CXL-esque bespoke jacket for 1/3 of the cost of an Aero and in 1/3 of the time? I mean, that's what dreams are made of.
 

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