Five Star Leather Jackets

[Canuck Panda]

Field Leathers Manhattan? Nice.

Good eye! Greg really puts his heart into making jacket, and his attention to detail really is unmatched. Still waiting for him to come out with new designs though.

 

[Marc mndt]

Good eye! Greg really puts his heart into making jacket, and his attention to detail really is unmatched. Still waiting for him to come out with new designs though.

Post a few pics in the field leathers thread if you have the time. I love to see more of this two tone beauty.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/field-leathers.100211/

He's planning on introducing new designs later this year but he's also open to do custom designs (as long as it fits his style and the request is not too crazy).

 

[Hobbes1]

6 to 7 inches is a lot of extra room if the jacket has a standard thickness lining such as cotton drill. It seems to me that that much excess leather will bunch up and fold in an unsightly manner.

I think you are right. I'm getting a wool lining in the body and going for 24" pit to pit. The wool doesnt seem too thick, from pics I saw from Shawn.

 

[PilotJens]

Jesus 2.2 mm
I am currently working with a boot maker in China that has a similar approach to Shawn with making inexpensive custom pieces .

I will ask Shawn if he can send me or my Chinese friend some of his cxl to make a boot out of it .

 

[powersci]

I have changed my mind and now I want the pockets made of natural CXL. the reinforcements should be seal steerhide (on the picture they are still russet).
I'm not sure whether nickel or brass hardware is better?
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The brass looks great with that design. I may have to get one made for myself! The heavy canvas you're going for is perfect on the dark brown leather/shearling.

V1 is 10 mm, first version of 5* shearling.
V2 is 20 mm new version.
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The new version looks so plush. I'd go for that. I already like your vest you show off on here regularly (shown below). Looks amazingly comfortable.

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[powersci]

I changed my mind entirely for the design of the heavy brown 5XL hide. Bored today so I put together a single transformation pic of my russet steer. From chocolate milk, bruised banana to mottled cherry.
View attachment 336812

Tony that progression is amazing! Nice job!

 

[MrProper]

The brass looks great with that design. I may have to get one made for myself! The heavy canvas you're going for is perfect on the dark brown leather/shearling.



The new version looks so plush. I'd go for that. I already like your vest you show off on here regularly (shown below). Looks amazingly comfortable.

The vest is on its way. I hope to be able to show photos this week ;-)

 

[Berto]

The vest is on its way. I hope to be able to show photos this week ;-)

Wow, so quick.

I know mine is in production but no deadline has been provided by Shawn.

 

[MrProper]

the sleeve post around the shoulder rotated forward a little rather than just hanging down vertically, so the upper arm and shoulder don't get too much creases when you bring your arms forward like in driving position, while curved sleeve mostly affect inner elbow and lower arm, when the sleeve is curved as you bend the elbow there is less material trapped on the inside of your elbow ( less honeycomb creases) and so not stopping your blood flow even with slimmer sleeve.

the tradeoff are in normal position with your arm down there is bigger chance the back of the collar hitting the back of your neck and then make a crease just bellow the back collar if the collar is not modified, also there is baggy elbow room when viewed from behind as well as a little baggy rear shoulder on the back of the upper arm is the sleeve is rotated forward too aggressively.

I'm not a fan of rotated sleeves. At least not in everyday life. It may be different on a motorcycle. My Fieldleather jacket is beautiful, but the sleeves that are rotated to the front screw up the cut. It gives me tension across my chest, which just doesn't look good. I therefore only wear the jacket open. Everything would be fine without the rotation.

 

[MrProper]

Wow, so quick.

I know mine is in production but no deadline has been provided by Shawn.

Maybe I pushed too much ... um remembered lol

 

[MrProper]

Awesome!! I just received images of the darker brown heavy hide and am waiting for my invoice to get my HB underway. I like the looks of this:
View attachment 338859 View attachment 338860

Great. Now I don't know whether the next jacket should be natural CXL or dark brown CXL.

 

[Berto]

Maybe I pushed too much ... um remembered lol

Surely, I have no doubt about it

Anyway, my Shearling Vest (B3 Body - Modified D1 Collar) will arrive at home in just 2-3 weeks. I hope.

 

[navetsea]

I'm not a fan of rotated sleeves. At least not in everyday life. It may be different on a motorcycle. My Fieldleather jacket is beautiful, but the sleeves that are rotated to the front screw up the cut. It gives me tension across my chest, which just doesn't look good. I therefore only wear the jacket open. Everything would be fine without the rotation.

Must be a combination of several factors. For the cleanest look when standing neutral i think sleeve pointing down like suit jacket is the best/cleanest.
But with the same snugness suit jacket will get pulled awkwardly the moment you raise your arm to wave to a friend, reaching top shelf in supermarket, always a compromise between clean look and mobility . I always have my sleeve rotated forward a little since sitting with my arms on the desk is my neutral pose , i over did that on my last jacket since i was afraid i wont be able to move at all in it. But on the torso i always have room for layers i just curved the waist in to make the jacket looks slim while still roomy enough for chunky sweater or denim jacket so even with some pull with my arms down it doesnt do enough to crease around my shoulder. I understand your fit is a lot snug on the body than mine so that must be another factor that also contribute to it.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I second that notion that for hides that need break on like cxl, closer fit whole counterintuitive will be better in terms of comfort and definitely looks in the long run. Looser fit should go with something with more drape.

As I get to know these leathers more, the more I realize I really don't like the stiff nature of them, just wish there was something that was as beautiful but draped like lambskin lol. For me, I have too much mass shifting around when standing, sitting, reaching, etc etc, I'm like a water balloon from all the times I should've passed on seconds if you know what I mean. So having something restrictive, I just feel like meat that's been syran wrapped. Whoever added stretch to denim should be given the nobel prize.

 

[MrProper]

But with the same snugness suit jacket will get pulled awkwardly the moment you raise your arm to wave to a friend, reaching top shelf in supermarket, always a compromise between clean look and mobility.

I only partially agree. High armholes, matching shoulders and perhaps gussets prevent the jacket from riding up excessively. I walk a lot and my arms hang down normally with a straight posture, rotated sleeves are counterproductive.

 

[navetsea]

I only partially agree. High armholes, matching shoulders and perhaps gussets prevent the jacket from riding up excessively. I walk a lot and my arms hang down normally with a straight posture, rotated sleeves are counterproductive.

you can de rotate your FL jacket, shoulder circumference is the same and rotation probably only 1-2cm off neutral. most likely the pattern is made without counting the sleeve rotation, and when client want it then during assembling the sleeve is rotated.

sleeve rotated forward is also counter productive when you need to reach backward, make it more difficult to wear on and wear off the jacket too, it makes the back of the collar hit the back of the neck and thus creases when not specially make to slightly sticking out backward, it makes the chest presses inward depending your fit it might feel very uncomfortable, when the jacket worn open it might make the back hem sticking out to the back rather than dropping straight down.

I shouldn't say it anymore here since it might not worth to most people.
for my own setup though it is very important and serves me very well.

 

[jacketjunkie]

It really depends on personal preference and use of the jacket I guess. My A-2 jackets with normally set sleeves are great for walking and casual wear but the moment I drive or bike, I much prefer my Vansons/Johnsons with forward rotated sleeves and prebent elbows because they wear much more gomfortably in the chest and shoulders when I reach out. I guess the golden rule is to use differently patterned jackets for different activities.

 

[MrProper]

you can de rotate your FL jacket, shoulder circumference is the same and rotation probably only 1-2cm off neutral. most likely the pattern is made without counting the sleeve rotation, and when client want it then during assembling the sleeve is rotated.

I asked Greg at the time if he could rotate the sleeves back, but he advised against it. "but I'd strongly suggest we don't move the sleeve around. Sleeves are designed to fit into the armhole point by point, meaning the sleeve top curve (sleeve head) should be positioned exactly where it is, if we move it, it's just going to creat a different issue elsewhere."

But it's ok because I just wear the jacket open. Fortunately, I have enough other jackets that I can wear closed. lol

 

[ton312]

Progress pics of the 2.2mm Halfbelt. Grainy but I can see that the pocket placement and start point for the main zip is correct (also elastic for the full AB). Apparently this is day three of its construction. Shawn described working with this leather as “extremely difficult” and it required the purchase of a new sewing machine! He has promised to make me my best jacket…I believe him.

 

[Imuricecreamman]

Progress pics of the 2.2mm Halfbelt. Grainy but I can see that the pocket placement and start point for the main zip is correct (also elastic for the full AB). Apparently this is day three of its construction. Shawn described working with this leather as “extremely difficult” and it required the purchase of a new sewing machine! He has promised to make me my best jacket…I believe him.
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No more going to the gym I'm sure you got the exercises for the upperbody covered with just wearing this jacket