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Five Star Leather Jackets

navetsea

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Does anybody have an idea how these pockets are made? Are they just sewn or they have something to give that 3d feel?

I just want to make sure I can tell Shawn exactly how I want the pockets for the project.

View attachment 323438 View attachment 323439 View attachment 323440
I honestly don't know how to do that in unbroken panel like that and without any wrinkling and pulling, maybe they glue the cord and wet the leather overnight or something to expand and cover it with leather strip backing or ribbon underneath along the piping wait until dry, and top stitch it. Similar thing in simplest form just a short straight bump going on my harness boots, not even topstitched, so must be glued inbetween 2 leather
Screenshot_20210402-104836_Gallery.jpg
Screenshot_20210402-110246_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20210402-110252_Gallery.jpg
I imagine in more complex shape it need top stitching to really secure the shape.

on patch pocket edge, or sandwich construction like piping in between 2 panels is a lot easier.
I have raw hem on my jackets so I can show you here, flatter one they use something like shoe laces, round one they use something like cables, can be leather can be plastic.
Screenshot_20210402-104538_Gallery.jpg
Screenshot_20210402-104542_Gallery.jpg
 
Last edited:

Riu

Practically Family
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703
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UK
I honestly don't know how to do that in unbroken panel like that and without any wrinkling and pulling, maybe they glue the cord and wet the leather overnight or something to expand and cover it with leather strip backing or ribbon underneath along the piping wait until dry, and top stitch it. Similar thing in simplest form just a short straight bump going on my harness boots, not even topstitched, so must be glued inbetween 2 leather
View attachment 323501
View attachment 323505 View attachment 323504
I imagine in more complex shape it need top stitching to really secure the shape.

on patch pocket edge, or sandwich construction like piping in between 2 panels is a lot easier.
I have raw hem on my jackets so I can show you here, flatter one they use something like shoe laces, round one they use something like cables, can be leather can be plastic.
View attachment 323502
View attachment 323503

I like a flatter one, don't want it to stick out too much so I'm curious about that aspect and I'll definitely check with him.
 

navetsea

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I think the different between this design and normal slash style hand warmer is , this one has pocket back stitched on to leather panel, maybe that raise edge is just the edge or the pocket back folded in and top stitched, the same idea can e used on jacket without lining, so can have pocket but without pocket bag hanging inside.
 
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Riu

Practically Family
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703
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UK
I think the different between this design and normal slash style hand warmer is , this one has pocket back stitched on to leather panel, maybe that raise edge is just the edge or the pocket back folded in and top stitched, the same idea can e used on jacket without lining, so can have pocket but without pocket bag hanging inside.

Could be, I have no knowledge but what you're saying makes sense. I've modified the design after as I wasn't happy and wanted a bit more weight at the bottom of the jacket and the cuffs will have buttons like the jacket I got the inspiration from.

pocket detail.jpg
 

PilotJens

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343
Do you use Photoshop for your designs ? It looks great .I would love to find out if I should use a thick or slim buckle for the front latch of my jacket :)
Could be, I have no knowledge but what you're saying makes sense. I've modified the design after as I wasn't happy and wanted a bit more weight at the bottom of the jacket and the cuffs will have buttons like the jacket I got the inspiration from.

View attachment 323532
 
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navetsea

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Could be, I have no knowledge but what you're saying makes sense. I've modified the design after as I wasn't happy and wanted a bit more weight at the bottom of the jacket and the cuffs will have buttons like the jacket I got the inspiration from.

View attachment 323532
the belting is to me is better if not a french or blind seam, french seam is better for vertical seams to make the jacket drape better can twist better, for horizontal seam it looks bad like it ran out of material. better be just normal lapped topstitched seam either over or under the body panel in my opinion.
 
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Riu

Practically Family
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703
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UK
the belting is to me is better if not a french or blind seam, french seam is better for vertical seams to make the jacket drape better can twist better, for horizontal seam it looks bad like it ran out of material. better be just normal lapped topstitched seam either over or under the body panel in my opinion.

I have tried it topstitched but I don't like it. It adds too much weight or it seems off to me, there is something I don't like about it.

pocket detail2.jpg
pocket detail3.jpg
 

navetsea

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Looks great but few issues here:
1. Left shoulder looks much longer than right, the collar is not sits at center.
2. Outter side of cuff is longer than other side, not sure it is normal.
3. Requested zipped hand pocket, did not do that.
4. Front panel not cut equally and cause the main zipper not straight.

Really impressive work by 5star.
View attachment 322428 View attachment 322429 View attachment 322430 View attachment 322431 View attachment 322432 View attachment 322433 View attachment 322434 View attachment 322435 View attachment 322436
looks great man, congrats!!
other than the zip hand pocket I didn't see other flaws mentioned, they are just photos of brand new jacket, he didn't want to crease it so he wear it awkwardly maybe that already make it look weird maybe the photo is also not perfectly frontal, his jeans might be twisting a bit on the front fly etc.
 

Riu

Practically Family
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Location
UK
how about have it underneath
View attachment 323540

That might work. I think the reason I didn't want it over or under is because I wanted to add just a bit more weight to the bottom while maintaining some sort of unity between those panels without any of them overlapping the other.

I've kept the side panels so the back would sit nicer and that's how it looks.

back.jpg


I like how the cuffs are on that Rogue jacket and I'd like to have them like that.

Rogue-Territoy-Supply-Jacket-gear-patrol-full-lead.jpeg
 

PilotJens

A-List Customer
Messages
343
I wonder if Shawn can give me a hide that's dyed only half of the time of his normal process .I think this has some potential .It develops some nice darker spots but the heavy paint/pigment prevents it from surfacing.The higher end leathers seem to archive the colour by grease darkening and not giving it a solid dark pigment .
Same with russet steer. Nice darkening but a bit too much topcoat .After scrubbing it the dark spots come out and oil/water makes the pigment sink deeper so it gets lighter on top
IMG_20210402_140930.jpg
 
Messages
17,511
Location
Chicago
I wonder if Shawn can give me a hide that's dyed only half of the time of his normal process .I think this has some potential .It develops some nice darker spots but the heavy paint/pigment prevents it from surfacing.The higher end leathers seem to archive the colour by grease darkening and not giving it a solid dark pigment .
Same with russet steer. Nice darkening but a bit too much topcoat .After scrubbing it the dark spots come out and oil/water makes the pigment sink deeper so it gets lighter on top View attachment 323545
Is that the red russet goat or cognac?
 

MrProper

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Europe
I asked Shawn about the Perfecto 683. But I would use a quilted lining and not an elastic waistband, but a strap and a buckle.
He said "no problem". Piping is also not an issue. Sent a sample image with piping.
167411223_453502935902875_1841682908528955313_n.jpg
 

Riu

Practically Family
Messages
703
Location
UK
I asked Shawn about the Perfecto 683. But I would use a quilted lining and not an elastic waistband, but a strap and a buckle.
He said "no problem". Piping is also not an issue. Sent a sample image with piping.
View attachment 323583

Already doing research for that one? :)

I hope he will be able to do it less pronounced, I want it to be just slightly above the body as I don't want it that bold. I'm working on the details now and I want to make sure I write everything down. I think a maximum of 1.5mm is just enough for how I want it to be
 
Messages
17,511
Location
Chicago
I asked Shawn about the Perfecto 683. But I would use a quilted lining and not an elastic waistband, but a strap and a buckle.
He said "no problem". Piping is also not an issue. Sent a sample image with piping.
View attachment 323583
I will be very interested to see how that turns out! Always loved the Schott Ike. They are almost impossible to find in decent shape and a wearable size.
 

Hh121

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3,004
It is FANTASTIC, the picture doesn't do justice to this beautiful jacket.
 

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Hh121

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