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Five Star Leather Jackets

Messages
17,476
Location
Chicago
My latest aquisition from 5*: Cafe Racer made from premium black goat skin.

After the Moto jacket from Jean Shop NYC had been shown to me quite often on Pinterest, the desire for it became great enough for let Shawn recreate it.
But without a central seam on the back, slightly smaller gussets and with a heavy cotton drill instead of quilted lining.
And of course according to my measurements.
Since I have the Premium Goatskin from 5* in russet and seal, but black is still missing and this was also the leather recommendation from @ton312 , it became the black goat.

The leather is a little softer than my seal-colored one and, subjectively, seems to be slightly thinner.
The weight of the jacket is quite light at approx. 4 lbs and corresponds to my other mid weight jackets (more or less).
However, the jacket is as comfortable to wear as a fabric jacket. I would even go so far as to say it's my most comfortable leather jacket alongside my shearling.

Which details were important to me?
  • Round shoulders (very important)
  • Smaller gussets than the original
  • No central seam on the back, but the side seams do
  • Zippers on the inside of the forearms
  • Front drop
  • Slightly curved sleeves
  • Nickel hardware
  • High armholes
  • All my measurements (shoulders, P2P, waist, hem, height of waist, neck circumference, size of the armhole, elbow, wrist, sleeve length, body length, frontdrop, position and width of the chest pockets, length of the zips on the sleeves)

Only the wire puller I wanted on the zipper only looks like a wire puller but isn't. Maybe I'll swap it out.

But overall I would say Shawn delivered again :D
View attachment 321357 View attachment 321358 View attachment 321359 View attachment 321360 View attachment 321361 View attachment 321362 View attachment 321369
Absolutely PERFECT!!! The Five Star debate has been settled (long ago actually) but this really puts a nail in it. SUPERB jacket!
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
My latest aquisition from 5*: Cafe Racer made from premium black goat skin.

After the Moto jacket from Jean Shop NYC had been shown to me quite often on Pinterest, the desire for it became great enough for let Shawn recreate it.
But without a central seam on the back, slightly smaller gussets and with a heavy cotton drill instead of quilted lining.
And of course according to my measurements.
Since I have the Premium Goatskin from 5* in russet and seal, but black is still missing and this was also the leather recommendation from @ton312 , it became the black goat.

The leather is a little softer than my seal-colored one and, subjectively, seems to be slightly thinner.
The weight of the jacket is quite light at approx. 4 lbs and corresponds to my other mid weight jackets (more or less).
However, the jacket is as comfortable to wear as a fabric jacket. I would even go so far as to say it's my most comfortable leather jacket alongside my shearling.

Which details were important to me?
  • Round shoulders (very important)
  • Smaller gussets than the original
  • No central seam on the back, but the side seams do
  • Zippers on the inside of the forearms
  • Front drop
  • Slightly curved sleeves
  • Nickel hardware
  • High armholes
  • All my measurements (shoulders, P2P, waist, hem, height of waist, neck circumference, size of the armhole, elbow, wrist, sleeve length, body length, frontdrop, position and width of the chest pockets, length of the zips on the sleeves)

Only the wire puller I wanted on the zipper only looks like a wire puller but isn't. Maybe I'll swap it out.

But overall I would say Shawn delivered again :D
View attachment 321357 View attachment 321358 View attachment 321359 View attachment 321360 View attachment 321361 View attachment 321362 View attachment 321369

This fits you incredibly well.
The only thing i would change are the single stitched sleeves, it's somethign that scares me.
I know it's probably not a problem, HD cafe racers are single stitched and are usually fine, but i just can't help but see it as a weakness.
Once you know what you want and how to get it 5 Star can really be an amazing jacket for the money.

Speaking of HD cafe racers, the shoulders on yours are much nicer, they really follow your natural shoulders perfectly.
 
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Reactions: Riu

Riu

Practically Family
Messages
703
Location
UK
My latest aquisition from 5*: Cafe Racer made from premium black goat skin.

After the Moto jacket from Jean Shop NYC had been shown to me quite often on Pinterest, the desire for it became great enough for let Shawn recreate it.
But without a central seam on the back, slightly smaller gussets and with a heavy cotton drill instead of quilted lining.
And of course according to my measurements.
Since I have the Premium Goatskin from 5* in russet and seal, but black is still missing and this was also the leather recommendation from @ton312 , it became the black goat.

The leather is a little softer than my seal-colored one and, subjectively, seems to be slightly thinner.
The weight of the jacket is quite light at approx. 4 lbs and corresponds to my other mid weight jackets (more or less).
However, the jacket is as comfortable to wear as a fabric jacket. I would even go so far as to say it's my most comfortable leather jacket alongside my shearling.

Which details were important to me?
  • Round shoulders (very important)
  • Smaller gussets than the original
  • No central seam on the back, but the side seams do
  • Zippers on the inside of the forearms
  • Front drop
  • Slightly curved sleeves
  • Nickel hardware
  • High armholes
  • All my measurements (shoulders, P2P, waist, hem, height of waist, neck circumference, size of the armhole, elbow, wrist, sleeve length, body length, frontdrop, position and width of the chest pockets, length of the zips on the sleeves)

Only the wire puller I wanted on the zipper only looks like a wire puller but isn't. Maybe I'll swap it out.

But overall I would say Shawn delivered again :D
View attachment 321357 View attachment 321358 View attachment 321359 View attachment 321360 View attachment 321361 View attachment 321362 View attachment 321369

Amazing fit! Cannot say too much about it as it's getting better and better if you know what to tell Shawn. Great jacket and possibly a new standard when it comes to 5*
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,287
Location
Europe
This fits you incredibly well.
The only thing i would change are the single stitched sleeves, it's somethign that scares me.
I know it's probably not a problem, HD cafe racers are single stitched and are usually fine, but i just can't help but see it as a weakness.
Once you know what you want and how to get it 5 Star can really be an amazing jacket for the money.

Speaking of HD cafe racers, the shoulders on yours are much nicer, they really follow your natural shoulders perfectly.
Many thanks for your feedback, eagle eye ;)
Which seam do you mean on the sleeve? I have just compared my other jackets and I would not have noticed anything straight away.
But if I know that, I can look out for it next time.
In this case I said 5*, all sewed like the original.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
Many thanks for your feedback, eagle eye ;)
Which seam do you mean on the sleeve? I have just compared my other jackets and I would not have noticed anything straight away.
But if I know that, I can look out for it next time.
In this case I said 5*, all sewed like the original.

These are the ones i am talking about:

6CurVau.jpg


Most jackets are double stitched all the way around, some are double stitched on the top half of the shoulder and single stitched on the bottom half (thedi does that a lot) some are single stitched all the way around (a lot of deerskin jackets are single stitched, so is the HD cafe racer).

I can't tell i have seen failures showing single stitched is inferior, or any data to say that double stitched is stronger, i just think that if double stitched became the "standard" there has to be a reason.
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,287
Location
Europe
These are the ones i am talking about:

6CurVau.jpg


Most jackets are double stitched all the way around, some are double stitched on the top half of the shoulder and single stitched on the bottom half (thedi does that a lot) some are single stitched all the way around (a lot of deerskin jackets are single stitched, so is the HD cafe racer).

I can't tell i have seen failures showing single stitched is inferior, or any data to say that double stitched is stronger, i just think that if double stitched became the "standard" there has to be a reason.

Ah, now I see the difference, thanks for explaining.
I have this fold on my other jackets, including those from 5*.
This is missing also from the original Moto jacket from Jean Shop NYC (and mine is a copy). I'll take care of that in the future. In this case, I don't see it as tragic because it is more fashion than a motorcycle jacket.
 
Messages
17,476
Location
Chicago
Brooks and even some older Vanson do the sleeve attachment that way. I don’t think it will have any effect on durability. My H&M jacket is stitched that way and I am pushing that thing to the absolute limit with no ill effect on the seams (remarkably).
Old Vanson A;
D0F848F1-800B-4DCE-A769-5CB66D0D344D.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Hobbes1

A-List Customer
Messages
392
My latest aquisition from 5*: Cafe Racer made from premium black goat skin.

After the Moto jacket from Jean Shop NYC had been shown to me quite often on Pinterest, the desire for it became great enough for let Shawn recreate it.
But without a central seam on the back, slightly smaller gussets and with a heavy cotton drill instead of quilted lining.
And of course according to my measurements.
Since I have the Premium Goatskin from 5* in russet and seal, but black is still missing and this was also the leather recommendation from @ton312 , it became the black goat.

The leather is a little softer than my seal-colored one and, subjectively, seems to be slightly thinner.
The weight of the jacket is quite light at approx. 4 lbs and corresponds to my other mid weight jackets (more or less).
However, the jacket is as comfortable to wear as a fabric jacket. I would even go so far as to say it's my most comfortable leather jacket alongside my shearling.

Which details were important to me?
  • Round shoulders (very important)
  • Smaller gussets than the original
  • No central seam on the back, but the side seams do
  • Zippers on the inside of the forearms
  • Front drop
  • Slightly curved sleeves
  • Nickel hardware
  • High armholes
  • All my measurements (shoulders, P2P, waist, hem, height of waist, neck circumference, size of the armhole, elbow, wrist, sleeve length, body length, frontdrop, position and width of the chest pockets, length of the zips on the sleeves)

Only the wire puller I wanted on the zipper only looks like a wire puller but isn't. Maybe I'll swap it out.

But overall I would say Shawn delivered again :D
View attachment 321357 View attachment 321358 View attachment 321359 View attachment 321360 View attachment 321361 View attachment 321362 View attachment 321369

That looks as good as any CR I've seen posted here, no matter how high-end the maker. Well done.
 

PilotJens

A-List Customer
Messages
340
Stop posting Cafe Racers .Nice jacket by the way.You guys promote reckless spending habits .I want a Cossack, CR,Irvin, Duplicate my existing jacket .

I am probably one of the more adventurous DIY people here so here is a picture of me trying to dye Shaw's shearling :)
I refurbisht a few shearlings before to new condition on the outside but I have never dyed the fur/wool .I tried printer ink on this Swatch and will order spray fabric/wool dye to see how well it takes the dye .
 

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