Field Leathers

[Jin431]

How do you mean washed? With beeswax?
Greg will send these hides back to his supplier because they're not at all how they said they'd be.

I remember the bruciato (if that's how Thedi spells it) HH sample you shared after Thedi washed it. I was wondering if that can also be done with badalassi?

Hopefully next time his supplier can get you guys a better batch.

 

[Marc mndt]

I remember the bruciato (if that's how Thedi spells it) HH sample you shared after Thedi washed it. I was wondering if that can also be done with badalassi?

Hopefully next time his supplier can get you guys a better batch.

Ah yes I think that could be done, but
1) You need Thedi's beeswaxing skills
2) The bruciato hh thedi used for my jacket was absolutely perfect. Perfect matching grain, not a single blemish. I think applying beeswax on a 2nd grade hide will only highlight imperfections.

This is what Thedi's washed cowhide looks like.

(Don't know whether it's Badalassi or not but I think I've read somewhere that Thedi sources his leather from Tuscany tanneries so chances are good that these come from Consorzio Vera Pelle which is a consortium of 20 tanneries of which Badalassi Carlo is one. They all use similar tanning processes)

 

[Jin431]

Ah yes I think that could be done, but
1) You need Thedi's beeswaxing skills
2) The bruciato hh thedi used for my jacket was absolutely perfect. Perfect matching grain, not a single blemish. I think applying beeswax on a 2nd grade hide will only highlight imperfections.

This is what Thedi's washed cowhide looks like. View attachment 283108 View attachment 283109 (Don't know whether it's Badalassi or not but I think I've read somewhere that Thedi sources his leather from Tuscany tanneries so chances are good that these come from Consorzio Vera Pelle which is a consortium of 20 tanneries of which Badalassi Carlo is one. They all use similar tanning processes)

Thanks for that, learned something new today. Washed cowhide is so grainy, it is very good I'm sure that wears well too. I can't agree with you more, that cross zip thedi you have in that hide is perfect. I'm saving up for one for next year, not sure if I want HH or the buffalo. What full aniline do they offer aside from the bruciato?

 

[Marc mndt]

Thanks for that, learned something new today. Washed cowhide is so grainy, it is very good I'm sure that wears well too. I can't agree with you more, that cross zip thedi you have in that hide is perfect. I'm saving up for one for next year, not sure if I want HH or the buffalo. What full aniline do they offer aside from the bruciato?

If you want more information on Thedi's leathers, let's move the discussion to one of the Thedi threats. But Thedi exclusively uses full aniline if I'm not mistaken.

 

[Jin431]

^^ got it, wrong thread for that. My bad mods, sorry about that. Thanks for info Marc

 

[marker2037]

He's not, unfortunately. This is 70 square feet (5 hides). He needs 35 Sq feet for my jacket but the quality is so bad (color differences, blemishes, different levels of grain) that he doesn't think it's enough for one jacket.

That’s a shame. Sorry to hear that!

 

[dlite90]

Found a good deal on EBay for a Rainbow Country jacket, then for some reason the seller canceled. So I'm asking if Greg can do a Michigan in seal shinki for me.
IIRC even Himel's shinki is semi-aniline so I'm not sure there's much difference, especially after some wear.

 

[Jin431]

^^ Goodluck with your jacket project with FL

 

[Carlos840]

He's not, unfortunately. This is 70 square feet (5 hides). He needs 35 Sq feet for my jacket but the quality is so bad (color differences, blemishes, different levels of grain) that he doesn't think it's enough for one jacket.

Could make a nice poncho!

 

[Cornelius]

Could make a nice poncho!

 

[dlite90]

Ah yes I think that could be done, but
1) You need Thedi's beeswaxing skills
2) The bruciato hh thedi used for my jacket was absolutely perfect. Perfect matching grain, not a single blemish. I think applying beeswax on a 2nd grade hide will only highlight imperfections.

This is what Thedi's washed cowhide looks like. View attachment 283108 View attachment 283109 (Don't know whether it's Badalassi or not but I think I've read somewhere that Thedi sources his leather from Tuscany tanneries so chances are good that these come from Consorzio Vera Pelle which is a consortium of 20 tanneries of which Badalassi Carlo is one. They all use similar tanning processes)

Got any more pics of this? That 2nd leather looks incredible. Feel free to redirect me to a thread or PM.

 

[MrProper]

View attachment 283032 View attachment 283033 View attachment 283034 View attachment 283035
View attachment 283036

I looked at the pictures of the Shinki leather samples several times, but somehow there is no love at first sight. I'll probably wait to see jackets out of it.

 

[Tom71]

Thanks Tom71.
I also have the Himel oil tan in dark brown. I agree, very special and very nice. An impressive batch.
I have Himel oil tan shinki in black- I love it! Creases well with use. Interesting that Greg offered a grainy hide. I like that.
May we have some more photo's of Greg's hide in the navy?
p.s. you take good photo's that capture the hide well, ie. Himel dark brown oil tanned. Your photo's help me decide to get my Kensington in the same hide- the last of that particular batch. Thank you.

Here are two pictures as requested. Fresh out of the box. Colour comes across pretty accurately, although the jacket looks much more dull in overcast weather. The grain was sprecial to this particular batch. Greg had a much smoother variant too.

Thanks for the compliment re photos. I believe it´s more "hit or miss". I use an iPhone X, so in any event it´s not my skills on display...

 

[sweetfights]

Very nice looking leather- you seem to luck out with the quality hides!

 

[Berto]

Once I get the samples I'll post pics

 

[indigoeagle]

^^ pigmented

Sorry, if this is common knowledge or has been discussed previously, but what is the difference again between these two?

I had checked a little.
Full-aniline or pure aniline does not have any surface protection or pigmentation applied. So the colour and grain can come through.
Due to no protection it will age quickly.
It seems to be combined mostly with vegtan leather.
For the teacore effect, a brown vegtan leather would be dyed with black. After some time the brown would come through.
This seems to be what most people here want, no?

The standard description for pigment is, that a strong protective layer is added. This gives protection, but doesn't really allow for any aging.

Then there is semi-aniline, which means aniline plus pigmented. It's initially the same as full aniline leather, but after the dyeing of the leather, some protective coat is added, making the leather more uniform.

Apparently there are different levels of pigment leathers, more high-quality makers will user softer finishes without the harsh hardening agents in cheaper leathers, so that the dye can still slowly wear off.

In the pics of the samples of the pigment Badalassi the leather still shows nice grain and does not look uniform. Will it also age nicely?
So, what is the difference between full-aniline and these high-level pigment leathers then?

 

[Carlos840]

Sorry, if this is common knowledge or has been discussed previously, but what is the difference again between these two?

I had checked a little.
Full-aniline or pure aniline does not have any surface protection or pigmentation applied. So the colour and grain can come through.
Due to no protection it will age quickly.
It seems to be combined mostly with vegtan leather.
For the teacore effect, a brown vegtan leather would be dyed with black. After some time the brown would come through.
This seems to be what most people here want, no?

The standard description for pigment is, that a strong protective layer is added. This gives protection, but doesn't really allow for any aging.

Then there is semi-aniline, which means aniline plus pigmented. It's initially the same as full aniline leather, but after the dyeing of the leather, some protective coat is added, making the leather more uniform.

Apparently there are different levels of pigment leathers, more high-quality makers will user softer finishes without the harsh hardening agents in cheaper leathers, so that the dye can still slowly wear off.

In the pics of the samples of the pigment Badalassi the leather still shows nice grain and does not look uniform. Will it also age nicely?
So, what is the difference between full-aniline and these high-level pigment leathers then?

Basically aniline is a dye, it changes the colour of the leather itself. Pigment is a paint, it's literally a coat of paint on the surface of the hide. There is no colour penetration on pigment leather.

 

[Marc mndt]

These articles are a good read.

http://www.fowfurniture.com/blog/tips-and-guides/semi-aniline-vs-full-aniline-leathers/

https://www.mooreandgiles.com/leather/resources/how-leather-is-made/

 

[Marc mndt]

One of the loungers asked me about FL's full aniline Shinki, so I told him I really like its color depth and how it's evolving. Then he replied "I thought black is black and cant develop different shades like lets say a brown would."

I wouldn't say black is comparable to brown in terms of color depth, but some blacks certainly do show color depth.

Color depth is next to impossible to capture in a photo, especially when taking photos with your phone. But I thought I'd give it a try anyway. This is FL's full aniline Shinki

The jacket shows some reddish undertones.

Here's a comparison with some other blacks. Left and middle are full aniline, right one is pigment dyed. The middle one is FL's Shinki.

Here's a swatch of FL's teacore Shinki when new (no brown showing through yet)

*True color can't be captured on photo / screen but this might give some idea of what different shades of black look like.

 

[indigoeagle]

Would the teacore shinki be full aniline or pigment dyed?
I still have difficulty to grasp the differences.
It seemed that the tea core effect would need vegtan leather (vs. chrome tanned) and aniline dyed (even though that means the leather is dyed through, how can some different colour come through then) vs. pigment (that is in many articles described as making the leather very uniform with a protective layer and would prevent colour change; but we can see in the picture above, that the grain in the pigment dyed is showing and why should a pigment not wear off over time?
I find it very confusing. It must be different quality levels.