Dress shirts are dead.

[warbird]

I agree with you that a style cannot exist except when it is in the absence of things. Boundaries, definitions make a style. One can say that a style means you do certain things; but it also means that you don't do certain things, that you would never (or almost never) do certain things. There are rules, but what I think Feraud may have meant is that rules imposed rather arbitrarily by OTHER people, people who may be doofuses, are not good rules to follow and are worthy of being broken.

Yes I would agree. Thank you for expanding on what my thoughts are on the subject. I didn't take the time to write it, but that is my thinking as well. it was well put.

 

[Dr Doran]

I've got a couple of those from Paul Frederick- the button down collar with french cuff looks great- especially with a sportcoat and tie. You should try it!

That sounds good. How much did one set you back? Maybe I'll try it out.

 

[warbird]

Some would say "real rebels" do not make a career of being one.lol note the joking face.

I think you read way too much into my comment about rules. We can leave it at that.

My statement wasn't really in direct response to your rules quote. It was more a statement of dress philosophy. Please understand I like to question, if for no other reason than to better understand if I am on solid footing. And yes I agree about rebels, which instead f using the word rebel, I said real rebel. I never set out to be one, but in DC I gained the reputation of being one, somewhat with dress, but mainly in my job, to my good or ill depending on how you look at it.

 

[Jovan]

Actually, JC Penney has a "custom fit" option on their website that offers 100% cotton made-to-measure shirts for around $60. I just got my first, and it fits pretty nicely. It took a few weeks to arrive, though.

See, for less than that I know a shirtmaker online who turns out good quality bespoke shirts in two weeks from time of payment. Will even do split yokes and turnback ("portafino" or James Bond) cuffs if you ask. Soon I'm going to start a thread showing why it's worth it with comparisons between my best quality RTW and my bespoke.

Flit: I'll probably experiment in that someday, when I've got a few bespoke shirts in classic colours and styles.

 

[Dr Doran]

What are those bars called that can go through holes in the collars? I remember a thread about it but I cannot find it especially as I cannot remember what the bars are called. Anyone know?

 

[Dinerman]

collar bars?

 

[Dr Doran]

See, for less than that I know a shirtmaker online who turns out good quality bespoke shirts in two weeks from time of payment. Soon I'm going to start a thread showing why it's worth it with comparisons between my best quality RTW and my bespoke.

Flit: I'll probably experiment in that someday, when I've got a few bespoke shirts in classic colours and styles.

Do tell? How much? Don't whet my appetite and then make me wait for a new thread, my good man!

 

[Dr Doran]

collar bars?

Thanks! I simply couldn't remember the name! Sometimes it's the EASIEST THINGS ....

 

[Feraud]

My statement wasn't really in direct response to your rules quote. It was more a statement of dress philosophy. Please understand I like to question, if for no other reason than to better understand if I am on solid footing. And yes I agree about rebels, which instead f using the word rebel, I said real rebel. I never set out to be one, but in DC I gained the reputation of being one, somewhat with dress, but mainly in my job, to my good or ill depending on how you look at it.

I thought you were referring to my comment which was typed off the cuff and meant in jest. My bad!

In keeping with the spirit of the thread I will say there are definitely style rules we all follow, whether we acknowledge them or not.
Some people pay strict attention to them and other stray a bit. I do not see a major faux pas with wearing a button down with a suit.

About using collar bars with button down shirts, I do not think it would work. Button down holes are long and the bar is round. It would probably slip through the hole. There are shirts made for use with the collar bar that goes through a shirt.

 

[Jovan]

Doran: BaronBoutique.com

Some people will say they're as horrible as MyCustomTailor, but I simply cannot believe that is true from my experience. Apart from one oddity -- same size buttons on the sleeve placket as on rest of shirt, you can specify to have no buttons there or smaller buttons -- it was a pretty good deal. Fabric was quite soft to the touch and airy. It probably requires more ironing than any other shirt I own because of the fineness of the fabric, but that's life. They now even have mother of pearl buttons for a small charge, I'll probably try that on my next order.

For a truly vintage shirt, specify a soft collar or even ask them to add two chest pockets.

 

[Dr Doran]

Doran: BaronBoutique.com

Some people will say they're as horrible as MyCustomTailor, but I simply cannot believe that is true from my experience. Apart from one oddity -- same size buttons on the sleeve placket as on rest of shirt, you can specify to have no buttons there or smaller buttons -- it was a pretty good deal. Fabric was quite soft to the touch and airy. It probably requires more ironing than any other shirt I own because of the fineness of the fabric, but that's life. They now even have mother of pearl buttons for a small charge, I'll probably try that on my next order.

For a truly vintage shirt, specify a soft collar or even ask them to add two chest pockets.

Yikes, I'm to much of a ___ to do much ironing. My wife does a little, I do a little, and the dry cleaner does a little, and some of my shirts are 30% rayon -- drip dry.

 

[Dr Doran]

I do not see a major faux pas with wearing a button down with a suit.

About using collar bars with button down shirts, I do not think it would work. Button down holes are long and the bar is round. It would probably slip through the hole. There are shirts made for use with the collar bar that goes through a shirt.

OK.

 

[PenMan]

Not quite the point of the thread, but I adhere to certain rules when it comes to clothes. For example, I always and without exception wear shoes, underpants, socks, a shirt and pants to work. I almost always wear a jacket or suit, but that is not a rule. I never wear a skirt anywhere (the closest I came was wearing full Scottish dress, i.e. with a kilt, to a four weddings and a funeral party). I have never worn a dress. When I ski I wear ski boots, but at no other time. I never wear a brown belt with black shoes.

There are more. None of this makes me a follower. In fact, people constantly make comments about my clothing, which annoys me just a little bit.

 

[Jovan]

Yikes, I'm to much of a ___ to do much ironing. My wife does a little, I do a little, and the dry cleaner does a little, and some of my shirts are 30% rayon -- drip dry.

This is only the Egyptian cotton fabric in the Men's Shirts section. Certainly, the fabrics we're accustomed to like cotton twill and oxford don't need as much ironing. They even stock Swiss cotton that is wrinkle free. Not sure how breathable it is, though.

 

[Lady Day]

In California we have Ross. It's a chain....There's one in San Francisco.

There are three in San Francisco last I shopped. But the one at 4th and Market is the only one worth going to.

Its a discount/seconds stock store. They have some alright finds. Its like Value City in the south

Burlington Coat factory has some cool things too. Im not an expert on shirts mind you, but the ones I have seen them carry are at least good for everyday wear.

LD

 

[Feraud]

Burlington Coat factory has some cool things too. Im not an expert on shirts mind you, but the ones I have seen them carry are at least good for everyday wear.

LD

About 7-8 years ago I worked near a Burlington Coat Factory. I used to stop in periodically to see what they had in stock. They carried a nice selection of men's shirts with french cuffs.

I still have two pair of high waisted linen pants made by.. Ralph Lauen I believe.

 

[Pilgrim]

If anyone wants to know whether dress shirts are dying, take a stroll through the men's department at Nordstrom's.

THAT will convince you they're as healthy as ever.

And I'd rather have white or light blut than strongly colored shirts, as laundering washes out colors and shows the wear quickly.

 

[Washington]

Actually, JC Penney has a "custom fit" option on their website that offers 100% cotton made-to-measure shirts for around $60. I just got my first, and it fits pretty nicely. It took a few weeks to arrive, though.

I was all set to order one from them last night, until I noticed with shipping it came to near $67 per shirt. I'm glad you seemed pretty pleased with them but I did have one question.

In the past I ordered shirts from www.bestcustomshirt.com and they worked with me on all the details and even took into account shrinkage on the sleeves and collar. When you ordered your shirt from JC Penney could you tell if they allowed for that?

BTW - I did see today that they are running a sale which does include free shipping even on the custom stuff.

As for Bestcustomshirt, I'm not sure if others have used them but I wasn't very impressed with their entry level fabric.

-Washington

 

[dhermann1]

I have one Paul Frederick shirt and it definitely my nicest shirt. But I go to the sales at Brooks Brothers every January and come out with 3 or 4 really nice dress shirts at a good price. I used to grab the Manhattan Shirts 80% cotton 20% poly shirts wherever I found them. That low a percentage of poly makes the shirt tolerable to wear (not like a scratchy rubber shirt that the 60/40's are). And they are very good for wash and wear.
There are different grades of button down. As long as they have a smooth flat quality, I think they're fine with a suit. But even there, the social context may make a difference.
I also used to find cuffflinks just annoying, but lately I've worn them occasionally (the Paul Frederick requires cufflinks) and I'm liking them more and more.

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

I was all set to order one from them last night, until I noticed with shipping it came to near $67 per shirt. I'm glad you seemed pretty pleased with them but I did have one question.

In the past I ordered shirts from www.bestcustomshirt.com and they worked with me on all the details and even took into account shrinkage on the sleeves and collar. When you ordered your shirt from JC Penney could you tell if they allowed for that?

BTW - I did see today that they are running a sale which does include free shipping even on the custom stuff.

As for Bestcustomshirt, I'm not sure if others have used them but I wasn't very impressed with their entry level fabric.

-Washington

No, it wasn't that detailed, at least for the first shirt. I ordered a second one, and they gave me a bunch of options to increase or decrease various dimensions on the shirt, so the second one should fit better. The first one was fine except that the cuffs were just a shade tight.