TartuWolf
One Too Many
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- 1,343
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- Tartu, Estonia
I had this idea for an interesting discussion pop up in my head as I was trying to fall asleep. As always, best time for that, delaying the sleep for an hour or more...
I'm going to simplify this, but maybe during the discussion we can expand and elaborate.
Overall it started with me thinking about CXL and how it relates to the "purpose" of the garment/footwear.
Hear me out.
I'll put up 3 broad categories that belong in a spectrum of "use cases".
1 . Dressy / fancy / connoisseur.
2 . Casual / relaxed / middle-of-the-road / jack-of-all-trades.
3 . Rugged / actual work wear / max durability.
This goes for both leather jackets and boots.
And I'm only talking about high end / famous leathers.
So first category attracts people who are "geeky" about leather, who like to know the tannage, like to see various markings and "striations". Who like "interesting" and unique leather.
Most leathers in this category are definitely not meant to be trashed and beat up.
Rather aged and patina'd gently and slowly.
Most will likely be pure aniline.
Most will likely be vegetable tanned.
Usually the most/more expensive stuff.
Likely a lot of care will be given to this leather, for example regular brushing or shining.
Keeping it rather pristine is more expected.
Probably won't take rain too well.
More rolls, less creases?
Probably not super heavy weight and thick.
This is one end of the spectrum.
Examples:
Natural undyed horsehide.
Cordovan.
Horserump / horsebutt.
High end Shinki.
Badalassi.
Kakishibu stuff.
The second category is for folks who like interesting leather and want to see it develop, but maybe don't want to / can't spend top dollar, maybe don't want to be afraid for the leather, don't want to baby it as much, want to actually be able to use it without thinking too much about it, but still not beat it up and trash it.
Aniline or semi-aniline in most cases.
Combination tanned or veg tan.
Likely not as expensive as the previous category.
Can take rain much better.
Won't mind scuffing it up more for character.
Thicker, beefier.
Tea-core probably goes into this category.
Faster patina and development is expected.
This is the middle of the spectrum.
Examples:
CXL
Jerky from Aero
Wicket & Craig stuff, especially the double shot variety
Pull up leathers
Leathers stuffed with waxes and oils
Latigo, English bridle
Highly textured bison
Third category is the most "utilitarian" stuff. The stuff that will last longest, keep you dry and not be afraid of scuffs and scratches. The kind of stuff you want when riding a motorbike. Likely the kind of stuff you would want in battle or during a war. Does not need any care and will take care of you well.
Pigmented.
Ideally chrome tanned.
Won't scratch or scuff much at all.
Dyed through, tea-core is not of interest here. Doesn't matter much because you will likely not get through the top coat.
Thick stuff in most cases.
No patina or development expected. Only grain popping.
This is the other end of the spectrum.
Examples:
Lost Worlds leathers
Vanson Competition Weight
Goatskin
Those are my thoughts.
Tell me what you think.
Silly way to think about leather?
Genius idea?
Now I can calmly go to sleep having unloaded these thoughts on TFL haha.
Cheers!
I'm going to simplify this, but maybe during the discussion we can expand and elaborate.
Overall it started with me thinking about CXL and how it relates to the "purpose" of the garment/footwear.
Hear me out.
I'll put up 3 broad categories that belong in a spectrum of "use cases".
1 . Dressy / fancy / connoisseur.
2 . Casual / relaxed / middle-of-the-road / jack-of-all-trades.
3 . Rugged / actual work wear / max durability.
This goes for both leather jackets and boots.
And I'm only talking about high end / famous leathers.
So first category attracts people who are "geeky" about leather, who like to know the tannage, like to see various markings and "striations". Who like "interesting" and unique leather.
Most leathers in this category are definitely not meant to be trashed and beat up.
Rather aged and patina'd gently and slowly.
Most will likely be pure aniline.
Most will likely be vegetable tanned.
Usually the most/more expensive stuff.
Likely a lot of care will be given to this leather, for example regular brushing or shining.
Keeping it rather pristine is more expected.
Probably won't take rain too well.
More rolls, less creases?
Probably not super heavy weight and thick.
This is one end of the spectrum.
Examples:
Natural undyed horsehide.
Cordovan.
Horserump / horsebutt.
High end Shinki.
Badalassi.
Kakishibu stuff.
The second category is for folks who like interesting leather and want to see it develop, but maybe don't want to / can't spend top dollar, maybe don't want to be afraid for the leather, don't want to baby it as much, want to actually be able to use it without thinking too much about it, but still not beat it up and trash it.
Aniline or semi-aniline in most cases.
Combination tanned or veg tan.
Likely not as expensive as the previous category.
Can take rain much better.
Won't mind scuffing it up more for character.
Thicker, beefier.
Tea-core probably goes into this category.
Faster patina and development is expected.
This is the middle of the spectrum.
Examples:
CXL
Jerky from Aero
Wicket & Craig stuff, especially the double shot variety
Pull up leathers
Leathers stuffed with waxes and oils
Latigo, English bridle
Highly textured bison
Third category is the most "utilitarian" stuff. The stuff that will last longest, keep you dry and not be afraid of scuffs and scratches. The kind of stuff you want when riding a motorbike. Likely the kind of stuff you would want in battle or during a war. Does not need any care and will take care of you well.
Pigmented.
Ideally chrome tanned.
Won't scratch or scuff much at all.
Dyed through, tea-core is not of interest here. Doesn't matter much because you will likely not get through the top coat.
Thick stuff in most cases.
No patina or development expected. Only grain popping.
This is the other end of the spectrum.
Examples:
Lost Worlds leathers
Vanson Competition Weight
Goatskin
Those are my thoughts.
Tell me what you think.
Silly way to think about leather?
Genius idea?
Now I can calmly go to sleep having unloaded these thoughts on TFL haha.
Cheers!
