Buying hat blocks--what does one need to know?

[T Jones]

Here's what I have so far as a picture goes. It came out better than I expected. The crown is tall and straight, 4 7/8 all around, 4 3/4 at the pinch with a rake sloping to 4 1/4, (open crown height is now 5 3/4 inches tall). I gave it a Tear Drop crease. I'll have more pics after I get the ribbon sewn on. But, the 23 inch block worked great as Art predicted.

 

[FedOregon]

More pics, but it looks great from what I can see! Good job!

 

[T Jones]

More pics, but it looks great from what I can see! Good job!

Thanks FedO. It came out pretty good. I have to sew the ribbon back on and I'll take more pics. The 23 inch block I have worked out great. It gave the hat a nice tall boxy crown.

 

[Art Fawcett]

I took the hat off the block this morning and it looks like Art was right. The 23 inch, so called, 7 1/8 LO block I have works for a 7 1/4. I reused the original 7 1/4 Stetson sweat band and it's a perfect fit.

Thanks again for the help, Art.

Da Nada Sir, enjoy the process

 

[T Jones]

Here's the final results from the 23 inch block I have. It fits my 7 1/4 hat size perfectly. Can't thank Art enough for his input. What was thought to be a 7 1/8 LO hat block actually turns out to be a 7 1/4 hat block.

Modern Premier Stetson reproduction. The new open crown height on this is now 5 3/4, originally, it was 5 1/2 inches tall. The 23 inch block I have is pretty straight sided. I gave it a Tear Drop crease, 4 3/4 at the pinch with a rake sloping to 4 1/4 to the back. I also swapped out the dark brown 1 1/2 ribbon for this lighter brown mid ribbon. It came out pretty nice, making for a casual and decent looking grab and go express hat.

On the head

 

[Frunobulax]

Here's the final results from the 23 inch block I have. It fits my 7 1/4 hat size perfectly. Can't thank Art enough for his input. What was thought to be a 7 1/8 LO hat block actually turns out to be a 7 1/4 hat block.

Modern Premier Stetson reproduction. The new open crown height on this is now 5 3/4, originally, it was 5 1/2 inches tall. The 23 inch block I have is pretty straight sided. I gave it a Tear Drop crease, 4 3/4 at the pinch with a rake sloping to 4 1/4 to the back. I also swapped out the dark brown 1 1/2 ribbon for this lighter brown mid ribbon. It came out pretty nice, making for a casual and decent looking grab and go express hat.

On the head

Great job, Terry!


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

 

[T Jones]

Great job, Terry!


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Thank you, buddy.

 

[Michael A]

That looks really good Terry. What's the next project?

Michael

 

[FedOregon]

Terry, that looks so great! Wonderful job! I'd be proud to wear a hat like that!

 

[BobHufford]

Here's the final results from the 23 inch block I have.

Oh yeah!!! Super nice work Terry!

 

[RJR]

Here's the final results from the 23 inch block I have. It fits my 7 1/4 hat size perfectly. Can't thank Art enough for his input. What was thought to be a 7 1/8 LO hat block actually turns out to be a 7 1/4 hat block.

Modern Premier Stetson reproduction. The new open crown height on this is now 5 3/4, originally, it was 5 1/2 inches tall. The 23 inch block I have is pretty straight sided. I gave it a Tear Drop crease, 4 3/4 at the pinch with a rake sloping to 4 1/4 to the back. I also swapped out the dark brown 1 1/2 ribbon for this lighter brown mid ribbon. It came out pretty nice, making for a casual and decent looking grab and go express hat.

On the head

That is one heck of a nice conversion,TJ,well done.

 

[T Jones]

Fruno, Michael A, Bob H, RJ, thanks guys. I appreciate the comments.

Here's another pic of me wearing the hat for a better perspective on the crown shape and height. Not a good picture, though...

 

[T Jones]

That looks really good Terry. What's the next project?

Michael

I'm glad you asked that...

I took this 4X Stetson apart once again and I'm reblocking it on the same block as the Premier Whippet I just finished. It'll come off the block tomorrow morning

 

[FedOregon]

Fruno, Michael A, Bob H, RJ, thanks guys. I appreciate the comments.

Here's another pic of me wearing the hat for a better perspective on the crown shape and height. Not a good picture, though...

Yeah, but the hat looks great!

 

[Slacker Drummer]

Great work, Terry!

Years ago, before you really got into reblocking and restyling hats, you asked about reblocking an Akubra Stylemaster. Did you ever do it? Or did you lose the hat? Inquiring minds want to know.

 

[Windsock8e]

I understand that the "classic" block is #52 (or references ending in 52). Why is this so? Is it the straight sides and height?

If a whippet or a stratoliner is considered a classic profile (as an example), are they made on a 52 block or a different one?

Is there a hat block profile reference list - I think I saw someone had done this but cannot remember how I found it... (sorry if it is an obvious search term).

If looking to purchase a starting block, start with the 52?

The mysteries of hat blocks for the uninitiated....

 

[Frunobulax]

I understand that the "classic" block is #52 (or references ending in 52). Why is this so? Is it the straight sides and height?

If a whippet or a stratoliner is considered a classic profile (as an example), are they made on a 52 block or a different one?

Is there a hat block profile reference list - I think I saw someone had done this but cannot remember how I found it... (sorry if it is an obvious search term).

If looking to purchase a starting block, start with the 52?

The mysteries of hat blocks for the uninitiated....

The 52 is commonly known as the block with straight (untapered) sides that give you that "classic" 30s, 40s fedora profile. From what I understand, however, different companies had different block numbers for their branded hats. Take Stetson, for example. You can look at the block numbers on the re-order tags of many of their earlier hats which will tell you how they were blocked. I don't know if they referred to a "52" on any of their hats, but the block numbers for say, a Whippet or an Open Road were pretty consistent (I think). You would have to examine the posted re-order tags in the threads on these hats to confirm. In fact, "52" may be a designation originating with a hatters tool company (such as Chicago), rather than a specific brand of hat. I had a conversation with one of the hatters at Peters Brothers in Ft. Worth a couple of years ago, and he stated that, in reblocking an Open Road or a Stratoliner (or constructing a clone), the 52 was used for both models.

Some folks have actually found blocks and flanges which say "Stratoliner" on them. I believe one or two of our custom hatters even possess a full set of them.

As another example, take Byer-Rolnick/Resistol. They have a model called the San Antonio. If you go through the SA thread, you will find reorder tags that refer to at least three different blocks; however, they all have "San Antonio" either on the tag or on the sweatband. I happen to have one that has no "San Antonio" markings, but the reorder tag shows the same specs as the other SAs, so I consider it a SA.

In short, like so many things we have found out about hat history, the answer is "it depends."

 

[Cane Rod Maker]

No, not correct. Simply put, for anyone blocking a hat. You are going to find differences in what the base measures. They were not made to very close tolerances nor do I believe that there was a set standard in making them. This fouled (clean word) my head up for a little while. And I asked questions never getting a really clear answer, wonder why.... but this is the answer. Regardless of a stamped size indicator, on the block base you need to understand the hat size you want to make, your block NEEDS TO MEASURE 1/4 OF one inch bigger in circumference. That puts you on a block now, that puts your opening ROUGHLY where it needs to be. BUT TO FURTHER UNDERSTAND, if you are looking for a properly sized opening, for a specific size, this is where you need to have spent 40 dollars on a SIZING BAND BLOCK. This is when you for a opening to size and create a nice sharp brim break. Hope that helped.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[Cane Rod Maker]

I was looking at the other posts on the hat , that got glued to the block. My guess is there was a fresh coat of schallac, or sealer on the wood. I only ever stuck one to the block, and swore I will never let it get me again. When you iron the crown, take some breaks in between and don't over heat the block. 2 reasons, glue degeneration and coatings. I think you melted the clear, which was on the block, it captured your felt. I'm cautious to heat of iron, and some cool off periods. Just a few minutes here and there.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[Topper]

I am selling some excess old brim blocks on eBay store. Mostly topper blocks if anyone interested. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/ascottophats/ See Category on Hatters-Millinery-Equipment.