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[scottyrocks]

It had me wondering if the sweat could be removed, trimmed down to healthy leather and then reattached, but I guess that's probably too much to do just for the sake of keeping it all original. Who knows if that would even work or how long it would last?

I suppose anything is possible, but a sweat is constructed with an inner 'lip' that is the part that is actually stitched to the felt. Without this lip, as it would be if you trimmed it, it would look odd, and not have that nice edge where the vertical sides meets the brim.

 

[Frunobulax]

I suppose anything is possible, but a sweat is constructed with an inner 'lip' that is the part that is actually stitched to the felt. Without this lip, as it would be if you trimmed it, it would look odd, and not have that nice edge where the vertical sides meets the brim.

That's an unreeded sweat, so it's not even that simple. This sweatband is attached directly to the felt.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

 

[scottyrocks]

That's an unreeded sweat, so it's not even that simple. This sweatband is attached directly to the felt.

Yes, I see it now. Much more difficult, especially by hand.

 

[Willybob]

I've had this happen to one of my hats. If your handy with thread and needle and a sewing machine the repair is actually not difficult. Here's what I did.
I trimmed the threads holding the sweat to the felt and removed the sweat. I then trimmed the sewn edge of the sweat back just enough to remove any stitch holes. I then used a 1/2" piece of matching color grosgrain to convert the reedless sweat to one similar to a reeded sweat so there would be a flap to re attach the sweat to the felt under the sweat.

These two edges the pencil points to can be joined with a simple wipe stitch or tight zig zig stitch.

If you don't use a machine, a local seamstress could do it for you.

Once you have this done you hand sew the grosgrain to the felt as close to the point where to sweat and grossgrain are sewn together.
This photo shows the underside of a standard reeded sweat. The grosgrain acts as the black & grey flap in the pic.

I use a 3/8" or so cross stitch on two hand needles. It requires patients and can take a few hours. Stay within 1/4" of the transition from body to brim. Happy hatting.

 

[scottyrocks]

I've had this happen to one of my hats. If your handy with thread and needle and a sewing machine the repair is actually not difficult. Here's what I did.
I trimmed the threads holding the sweat to the felt and removed the sweat. I then trimmed the sewn edge of the sweat back just enough to remove any stitch holes. I then used a 1/2" piece of matching color grosgrain to convert the reedless sweat to one similar to a reeded sweat so there would be a flap to re attach the sweat to the felt under the sweat.

These two edges the pencil points to can be joined with a simple wipe stitch or tight zig zig stitch.
View attachment 96654
If you don't use a machine, a local seamstress could do it for you.

I'm lame with a sewing machine. Would it be possible to sew those two edges together using a loop(?) stitch? It might look very much like the original lower edge of the sweat where it is sewn to the felt. I am aware it would take longer to do it by hand, but I'm never in any rush.

 

[Willybob]

That would work.

 

[scottyrocks]

Thanks for the tip!

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Hi All, so I bought this vintage Mallory XV hat on the bay. After receiving it, it had many more moth nibbles than advertised and the sweatband had dried out enough to where it was separating at the stitching from the hat, also not disclosed. It's obviously not been worn much for being, I dunno 80yrs old maybe?, but I don't think it was stored well either. I'm feeling like the description was poor but not sure if I want to send it back, it looks good otherwise and the felt feels very fine (despite the nibbles). My question is... what do you think I should do about the hat/sweatband? Try to return the hat or fix the sweatband? If not for the sweatband, I'd be content with the hat otherwise. Here's a link to the original auction listing...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brown-Stetson-fedora-7-1-4-Mallory-034-Fifteen-034-hat-mens-XV-/263330665125?nma=true&si=HIiwMoGBmrTB9jJtjBu0022onb4%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

and some additional pics of the hat can be found here (until I figure out how to post pictures directly)....

https://photos.app.goo.gl/O5LJLhgH0JvDy0ik1

I recently sent an old Stetson Open Road to VS for some work including minimizing some moth damage and putting on a new sweat. If you can find a shop that will do the work at a decent price it looks like it would be worth getting it fixed up.

If your not up to doing the work yourself and if you don't have a local hatter give VS a look. The prices are reasonable, but this time of year expect it to take a couple months: https://vscustomhats.com/services/



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[cozy d]

I recently sent an old Stetson Open Road to VS for some work including minimizing some moth damage and putting on a new sweat. If you can find a shop that will do the work at a decent price it looks like it would be worth getting it fixed up.

If your not up to doing the work yourself and if you don't have a local hatter give VS a look. The prices are reasonable, but this time of year expect it to take a couple months: https://vscustomhats.com/services/

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Thanks deadlyhandsome, what a coincidence, I go up that way to visit family every Xmas and never knew about that shop. Although I'm far too impatient to wait 2 months for the sweat, I wouldn't mind dropping in just to check the place out! Cheers, D

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Thanks deadlyhandsome, what a coincidence, I go up that way to visit family every Xmas and never knew about that shop. Although I'm far too impatient to wait 2 months for the sweat, I wouldn't mind dropping in just to check the place out! Cheers, D

He relocated to that location early last year. I've been told his turnaround time is much less come late spring and summer when fewer folks are wearing felt. You should also check out his new line of ready to wear hats. Cheers.

 

[Milpro]

I picked up this Biltmore Giorgio Cellini on bay. It came from Henry the Hatter in Detroit, but that is all I can figure out. Made in Canada. It's in excellent shape but someone removed the paper tag from the inside so the model information is lost. It doesn't match any of the current Cellini collection offerings I can find. The hatband style is also different from the Cellinis I've found online.

It has both a front and rear pinch/dents. Brim is 2.5 inch.

If anyone knows their Biltmore / Cellini collection, I would very much appreciate their insight.

 

[Milpro]

A view of the bash.

 

[M Hatman]

I picked up this Biltmore Giorgio Cellini on bay. It came from Henry the Hatter in Detroit, but that is all I can figure out. Made in Canada. It's in excellent shape but someone removed the paper tag from the inside so the model information is lost. It doesn't match any of the current Cellini collection offerings I can find. The hatband style is also different from the Cellinis I've found online.

It has both a front and rear pinch/dents. Brim is 2.5 inch.

If anyone knows their Biltmore / Cellini collection, I would very much appreciate their insight.

Looks nice......I did up my Premier Strat in silverbelly like that with the front and rear pinches......gives it a sort of 20's vibe as they did that then......that hat gets me a lot of compliments.......
Really like the shark gill bow on yours.....someone here will be able to give you more info about your hat.
Best,
M

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I just received a Stetson Premier Stratoliner. My issue is that the tag and sweat state that it's a Premier but the liner is for the lower quality Royal Deluxe. The box states it a Premier and a Royal DeLuxe?!? Any idea what's going on? I purchased it new from a reputable vender:

Above: the liner from my two previously purchased Stetson Premier Stratoliners.

Above: the liner from my new premier Stratoliner. The liner clearly states Royal DeLuxe.

The felt on the new hat does not feel as nice as the felt on my two other Premiers, but I'm not sure if that is because it is a different color or if it's an inferior quality felt. I was specifically avoiding the Royal DeLuxe In favor of the Premier and now I don't know what I have.



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[Frunobulax]

I just received a Stetson Premier Stratoliner. My issue is that the tag and sweat state that it's a Premier but the liner is for the lower quality Royal Deluxe. The box states it a Premier and a Royal DeLuxe?!? Any idea what's going on? I purchased it new from a reputable vender:

Above: the liner from my two previously purchased Stetson Premier Stratoliners.

Above: the liner from my new premier Stratoliner. The liner clearly states Royal DeLuxe.

The felt on the new hat does not feel as nice as the felt on my two other Premiers, but I'm not sure if that is because it is a different color or if it's an inferior quality felt. I was specifically avoiding the Royal DeLuxe In favor of the Premier and now I don't know what I have.



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The quality designations on newer Hatco Stetsons are Royal, Royal Deluxe, and Excellent. I believe the Premier designation is limited to the Strat line, as all other open crown hats are Royal Deluxe or Excellent.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

 

[jonesy86]

The quality designations on newer Hatco Stetsons are Royal, Royal Deluxe, and Excellent. I believe the Premier designation is limited to the Strat line, as all other open crown hats are Royal Deluxe or Excellent.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Sorry, I'm new to this, but I am confused. Is the top quality newer Hatco Stetson a "Strat Line" premier? And "Royal, Royal Deluxe, and Excellent" are lesser quality"?
Thanks

 

[deadlyhandsome]

The quality designations on newer Hatco Stetsons are Royal, Royal Deluxe, and Excellent. I believe the Premier designation is limited to the Strat line, as all other open crown hats are Royal Deluxe or Excellent.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

This doesn't answer my specific problem. This hat has both the Royal DeLuxe and the Premier designations. My other two recent manufactured Stratoliners only have the Premier designation. How can my new one be both a Premier and a Royal DeLuxe? The Hat-Co 2017 fall catalog does not show a Premier Stratoliner so I'm left to wonder what I have. It certainly does not have the quality of felt that my other two Premiers have.

I'm sending this one back. Too bad, I was looking forward to wearing this hat.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Sorry, I'm new to this, but I am confused. Is the top quality newer Hatco Stetson a "Strat Line" premier? And "Royal, Royal Deluxe, and Excellent" are lesser quality"?
Thanks

High to low:

Excellent
Premier
Royal DeLuxe
Royal

Not all hats are available in all quality levels and it varies year to year.

Fall 2017 city hats catalog link:
http://www.hat-co.com/perch//resources/f17stetsoncitydigital.pdf

 

[jonesy86]

High to low:

Excellent
Premier
Royal DeLuxe
Royal

Not all hats are available in all quality levels and it varies year to year.

Fall 2017 city hats catalog link:
http://www.hat-co.com/perch//resources/f17stetsoncitydigital.pdf

Thanks for the clarification. It appears that this year's Fall 2017 catalog differentiates between:
Excellent
Royal Deluxe
Royal
And they then have a "Medalist Collection"

Which pretty much corresponds with your listing from High to Low, with Excellent being the top of the list in quality.
So Stratoliner is a hat style, not a quality designation? Of which they list 2 different models.
A priemer Stratolliner (open crown) Royal Deluxe, and a Stratoliner (special edition) Royal Quality.

I would like to buy the best that they make. So I will look at the Excellent collection regardless of model. However, I wonder how much of this is simply marketing, and how much is really related to the quality of the hat?

Thank you for your patience in dealing with a complete newbie. I am ready to upgrade from an Akubra. And of course there is always the lore of owning a Stetson.

Thank you.

 

[jonesy86]

Considering the Benchley Mink. All the Quality designations seem to be about 4-1/2 crown, but I like the slightly smaller 2" brim.