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[Bob Roberts]

Thanks guys for the valuable info, I'm pretty sure I'm going to join the Fed IV owners contingent. Now I just need to decide what color...................

GREAT hat!

 

[Bob Roberts]

I just purchased a couple from Australiangear, They have a sale going on some of them right now, prices roughly 30% less than David Morgan, and that's including shipping. plus models and colors not available here. One of the one's I ordered was a Cattleman in Bluegrass Green.

Unfortunately no Fed's.

 

[Frunobulax]

Yeah, that's a heckuva hat.

 

[Gromulus]

Hats Direct (The Hattery) is the exclusive (only) supplier of the FED IV.

 

[ConsiderMeMilesDavis]

Each one of you is a bad influence (on my pocketbook).

How tall is the crown on a Fed IV? Hats Direct doesn't list it online.

 

[Motorcyclist]

I'm just waiting for another sale. Already know what so just need the excuse.

 

[Ralph_Phillips]

The last time I saw an Akubra in a shop in the USA was in 1980 or so when I was in high school. It's probably not what you want to hear, but I bought all my Akubras when living in Australia. Walked into the shops and forked over cash.

 

[JackieMatra]

Each one of you is a bad influence (on my pocketbook).

How tall is the crown on a Fed IV? Hats Direct doesn't list it online.

Mine's 5.5" open crown.

 

[Zombie_61]

...How tall is the crown on a Fed IV? Hats Direct doesn't list it online.

They do, but the link to that information is very nondescript and can be easy to miss. They list the open crown height as 5-5/8" (142 mm).

 

[Benzadmiral]

The last time I saw an Akubra in a shop in the USA was in 1980 or so when I was in high school. It's probably not what you want to hear, but I bought all my Akubras when living in Australia. Walked into the shops and forked over cash.

Meyer the Hatter carries some Akubras: http://www.meyerthehatter.com/AKUBRA/71/dept I saw a Squatter in their display window a couple of years ago, too.

 

[evansrc]

Hello all, recently started donning fedoras after due consideration.

All good so far, frequently complimented, and just the one desperately sad shout of "tosser" from a retreating white van. Which, from someone whose fashion statement is bottom cleavage, can only be viewed as another positive reaction.

I thought it best to buy new first and of reasonable quality, and picked a Christy's Knightsbridge.
It's ok for what it is, but has already shrunk a little and becomes quite misshapen with the rain.

Also, got a secondhand (rather than vintage) Lock & Co, which I think is a Chelsea Fedora.

That is marked as EU 56, and I'm about a 57, though I assume it had shrunk considerably. Stripped it, washed and stretched and sewed in a piece of leather into hatband to widen. It's kinda ok now, and quality of felt (which I assume is rabbit) far better than the Christy's.

I'll probably get a new Lock next, as I want a grey one ASAP, but then intend to play the waiting game for quality vintage, hopefully including Lock & Co and Borsalino.

Would appreciate advice about that.

Is there a rough expectation of shrinkage of vintage wool, rabbit and beaver felts?

I won't be buying anything under my size again expecting to be able stretch it, but for vintage would one or two sizes above be a safe bet?

Thanks in advance.

Richard

 

[jlee562]

Oh my, the discussion on shrinkage can be very nuanced. Buried in the depths of the collective knowledge here are some very good explainers from our resident hatters and people whom have likewise handled many more hats than I.

That having been said, there certainly are a few generalities we can make. Modern Christys hats in particular are notorious for shrinkage and aren't representative of what one should expect from a quality hat.

Beaver felt is naturally more resilient against water, so shrinkage is generally minimal. But all felt hats continue to felt overtime, which is why hats benefit from the occasional reblock.

Vintage felts are a crapshoot. Sometimes they're spot on, sometimes they've obviously shrunk up. So much has to do with how much hat the care received in its life, and how it was cared for before it got to you. I've had several 6 7/8ths hats gently stretched and/or reblocked to fit me. I don't personally look for vintage hats that are larger than my size in the hopes that it has shrunk.

Akubra hats can shrink up to half a size...mine isn't quite that severe, but it definitely has tightened up to my head (this makes it a really good rain hat though....hard to blow off).

 

[Bob Roberts]

Meyer the Hatter carries some Akubras: http://www.meyerthehatter.com/AKUBRA/71/dept I saw a Squatter in their display window a couple of years ago, too.

$$$$

 

[Bob Roberts]

Oh my, the discussion on shrinkage can be very nuanced. Buried in the depths of the collective knowledge here are some very good explainers from our resident hatters and people whom have likewise handled many more hats than I.

That having been said, there certainly are a few generalities we can make. Modern Christys hats in particular are notorious for shrinkage and aren't representative of what one should expect from a quality hat.

Beaver felt is naturally more resilient against water, so shrinkage is generally minimal. But all felt hats continue to felt overtime, which is why hats benefit from the occasional reblock.

Vintage felts are a crapshoot. Sometimes they're spot on, sometimes they've obviously shrunk up. So much has to do with how much hat the care received in its life, and how it was cared for before it got to you. I've had several 6 7/8ths hats gently stretched and/or reblocked to fit me. I don't personally look for vintage hats that are larger than my size in the hopes that it has shrunk.

Akubra hats can shrink up to half a size...mine isn't quite that severe, but it definitely has tightened up to my head (this makes it a really good rain hat though....hard to blow off).

I can vouch for the Akubra size shrinkage.

 

[evansrc]

Oh my, the discussion on shrinkage can be very nuanced. Buried in the depths of the collective knowledge here are some very good explainers from our resident hatters and people whom have likewise handled many more hats than I.

That having been said, there certainly are a few generalities we can make. Modern Christys hats in particular are notorious for shrinkage and aren't representative of what one should expect from a quality hat.

Beaver felt is naturally more resilient against water, so shrinkage is generally minimal. But all felt hats continue to felt overtime, which is why hats benefit from the occasional reblock.

Vintage felts are a crapshoot. Sometimes they're spot on, sometimes they've obviously shrunk up. So much has to do with how much hat the care received in its life, and how it was cared for before it got to you. I've had several 6 7/8ths hats gently stretched and/or reblocked to fit me. I don't personally look for vintage hats that are larger than my size in the hopes that it has shrunk.

Akubra hats can shrink up to half a size...mine isn't quite that severe, but it definitely has tightened up to my head (this makes it a really good rain hat though....hard to blow off).

Thanks for the response.
I'll aim for my size or maybe one above, and get something for reblocking.
The Christys actually fits a little better now, and likewise, more secure with the weather.

 

[jlee562]

Good luck with the hunt, that's half the fun!

I read once, but can neither confirm nor deny, that modern Christys hats are "dry blocked" without the use of water or steam which would otherwise help the felt 'preshrink' while it's being blocked.

My Christys Adventurer is a handsome lid, but I don't expose it to the elements much.

 

[belfastboy]

I have a question about hat cleaning and after a search of "hat cleaning" did not get it answered. I just picked up a vintage Borsalino in mid grey that needs a refresh. There are no stains in the felt or ribbon but overall just looks a little soiled and tired.
The liner is yellowed and even though it is stitched in may remove it give it a light wash.
Question: Would it make sense to try the Scout as a first round or plunge right in and give it naptha bath?
I am game to try the naptha but if I can do the refresh with the Scout will go that route. Should I remove the ribbon and clean that separately?
Any words from the experienced hat cleaners out there? Not opposed to sending it out to a real hatter for cleaning but, what the hell, why not learn a little bit more about hats??

 

[buler]

I have a question about hat cleaning and after a search of "hat cleaning" did not get it answered. I just picked up a vintage Borsalino in mid grey that needs a refresh. There are no stains in the felt or ribbon but overall just looks a little soiled and tired.
The liner is yellowed and even though it is stitched in may remove it give it a light wash.
Question: Would it make sense to try the Scout as a first round or plunge right in and give it naptha bath?
I am game to try the naptha but if I can do the refresh with the Scout will go that route. Should I remove the ribbon and clean that separately?
Any words from the experienced hat cleaners out there? Not opposed to sending it out to a real hatter for cleaning but, what the hell, why not learn a little bit more about hats??

I find that most hats come out fine after a vacuum, brush, and steaming.

B

 

[Frunobulax]

Belfastboy,

First, if you haven't, please read the Step-By-Step Naphtha Bath thread.

Buler is right, very few hats will require the type of cleaning you get with a naphtha bath. Try vacuuming, steaming, and brushing first. Steam and a brush will work wonders on a felt hat. As for the liner, I usually live with a little discoloration. It is, after all, an old hat that has been worn. Should you attempt to destitch and remove it, you'll never get it stitched back in unless by an experienced professional. I don't think your average seamstress can pull this off, but I may be wrong.

If you choose to go the naphtha route, leave the hat in one piece. Treat the leather sweat well with Lexol or another leather conditioner both before and after. Read the step-by-step thread, and maybe this thread started by me.

 

[RJR]

I find that most hats come out fine after a vacuum, brush, and steaming.

B

My experience as well.If the liner bothers you,replacements are readily available and you know they're clean.