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[deadlyhandsome]

There are a number of sewing machines that can be used to accomplish the tasks you are asking about. To find what you are looking for it is best to know manufacturer and model names.

1) For this item I am reading this as how do you sew the ends of the sweatband together to make it a circular shape. The answer to that is any flatbed sewing machine that can do a zig-zag stitch. However, you still need to do a little hand sewing to keep it together before taking it to the sewing machine, this is especially true if you will be belling the sweatband.

2) For sewing the sweatband into the hat, this is assuming a reeded sweatband you will want to look for a Singer 107-1 or the clone ASM 1107-1. Both are hard to find and from my understanding the ASM is no longer made. You could try contacting the folks at JW Custom Hats to see if they have any ASM 1107-1 to sell you (it will be at least $2,000 and up). https://www.jwrhats.com/ I am sure that there are other brands back in the golden days of hat making that made machines specific to this task as well but I do not know the model numbers.

There’s an ASM on ebay for $2,600.00 OBO plus shipping. You need to make a lot of hats for that to amortize.

 

[BobHufford]

There’s an ASM on ebay for $2,600.00 OBO plus shipping. You need to make a lot of hats for that to amortize.

Just do what I do with wood-working tools/machines. Explain (to whoever) that wood-working and collecting wood-working tools are two separate hobbies. I just haven’t started the former yet. But apply it to hats...

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Just do what I do with wood-working tools/machines. Explain (to whoever) that wood-working and collecting wood-working tools are two separate hobbies. I just haven’t started the former yet. But apply it to hats...

Hmm...how does it go over with the wife?

My career has kept me moving around and our homes have had varying degrees of storage space. I might have one more work related move before I retire, but my retirement home will have a heated and cooled detached shop and storage area...hopefully a bathroom and lounge area too.

 

[BobHufford]

Hmm...how does it go over with the wife?

When we built the shop and I was looking at buying a vintage wood lathe, I told her it was for a hobby in my retirement years. Well ... retirement is seven years off and I’m already “upgrading” some of the tools (usually with bigger and older machines). The new shop is already too small.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

When we built the shop and I was looking at buying a vintage wood lathe, I told her it was for a hobby in my retirement years. Well ... retirement is seven years off and I’m already “upgrading” some of the tools (usually with bigger and older machines). The new shop is already too small.

That sounds about right. I’m a maximum of five years away from my planned retirement. This year is also the first time in my career that we’ve taken a pay cut.

I love the weather of the Pacific Northwest, but I’m not politically compatible with that region and I like the property prices in The South and the Midwest. Ideally I’d buy property with a creek and bordering National Forest...know of anything that matches?

 

[BobHufford]

Ideally I’d buy property with a creek and bordering National Forest...know of anything that matches?

Nothing like that around here.

 

[Emilis]

I have a question about this video. At 3:40 in the video, they use this interesting flanging method. Do you think it does the same job as flanging with a sandbag? Has anyone had any experience with this?

-E

 

[belfastboy]

I have a question about this video. At 3:40 in the video, they use this interesting flanging method. Do you think it does the same job as flanging with a sandbag? Has anyone had any experience with this?

-E

When I saw this I too thought it interesting. I think what it accomplishes is that it gives a firmer set to the blocking and flanging as it puts both under tension. A tension much greater than just the cloth and string can do.

 

[Emilis]

Could be, but how about the actual flanging process? They don't show it in the video.

 

[belfastboy]

Could be, but how about the actual flanging process? They don't show it in the video.

Yes, they do...leading up to the 3:40 mark. He shows the steaming and then setting of the cord in the slot. The big difference is that he flanges the curve into the brim before he trims it. Seems a strange way of doing it.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Yes, they do...leading up to the 3:40 mark. He shows the steaming and then setting of the cord in the slot. The big difference is that he flanges the curve into the brim before he trims it. Seems a strange way of doing it.

I wonder if it’s done this way due to the style of the flange. It would be hard to get the felt perfectly sized before it was flanged. I also think you need some extra felt to be on the other side of the cord to hold the felt in place on the flange. That felt could only be trimmed after the hat is flanged and the cord removed. Otherwise it would be like trimming the brim to size before blocking it.

Just my guess.

 

[belfastboy]

I wonder if it’s done this way due to the style of the flange. It would be hard to get the felt perfectly sized before it was flanged. I also think you need some extra felt to be on the other side of the cord to hold the felt in place on the flange. That felt could only be trimmed after the hat is flanged and the cord removed. Otherwise it would be like trimming the brim to size before blocking it.

Just my guess.

Yes, there must be a logical reason in there somewhere and your perspective makes sense. It could have been an instructive video if there was commentary instead it was just annoying.

 

[Emilis]

Yes, they do...leading up to the 3:40 mark. He shows the steaming and then setting of the cord in the slot. The big difference is that he flanges the curve into the brim before he trims it. Seems a strange way of doing it.

But in your opinion, do you think it sets the brim the same way as a sandbag would?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

But in your opinion, do you think it sets the brim the same way as a sandbag would?

The video was for a curled brim derby/bowler and not a fedora. A derby has lots of stiffeners in it and like western hats can accept and hold brim shapes that fedoras can’t. I don’t think that this is a common method for flanging fedoras or other soft felt hats. All just speculation on my part so take it for what it’s worth.

 

[belfastboy]

But in your opinion, do you think it sets the brim the same way as a sandbag would?

I don't use a sandbag. I just use the flange, a wet heavy cotton muslin cloth, steam, an iron and the blocking string in the slot to set/hold the tension on the cloth.. It sets the brim perfectly in the hats I have made. The sandbagger just quickens the process.....but I do the flanging at the end of the day, let it set overnight. It works very well without wasting time waiting for it to dry.

 

[Just Daniel]

Anyone have insight into the Stetsons “Made Expressly For” famous people? I get the distinct feeling this was a marketing gimmick.

 

[J Williams]

I have searched a bit and there doesn't seem to be much info for dating stetson boxes. Anyone have a rough idea when this style of box was in production? I have seen examples from roughly 1930 - 1960 that came in this type of box, although I have no idea if the boxes matched the hats.

 

[Louis Mountbatten]

1950s, I think.

 

[carouselvic]

That box has a totaly different type of construction than Stetson's other boxes. The one I have came with a G. Henry Stetson hat in it.

 

[J Williams]

That box has a totaly different type of construction than Stetson's other boxes. The one I have came with a G. Henry Stetson hat in it.

I’ve always liked the look of this box. I just bought one it has a black mystery hat in it. Just a bad photo and the sellers description was NIB. Fingers crossed.