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[deadlyhandsome]

I want to get a hat block for making hats so I know I need to be 1/4 inch larger than my hat size. I wear a 7 1/2 LO. Does my block need to reflect that or do I just go with a standard round block for open crowns like a #51?

When buying a block you need three specifications:
1. Profile/shape. This is normally reflected by the block number e.g, #51, #52, etc.
2. Block size (this correlates to the head size of the person for whom the hat will be made.
3. Block depth (how tall of a crown).

You can also choose ovals (Standard, long, etc.).

There is a thread on everything you need to know about buying a block. Most of your questions should be answered there.


https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/buying-hat-blocks-what-does-one-need-to-know.74078/


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[thundurchasur]

When buying a block you need three specifications:
1. Profile/shape. This is normally reflected by the block number e.g, #51, #52, etc.
2. Block size (this correlates to the head size of the person for whom the hat will be made.
3. Block depth (how tall of a crown).

I'm only interested (at this time) in western hats. One setup I've seen is a basic open crown block that's 8 inches tall and sits down inside of a cutout on a piece of plywood. The plywood sits on built up blocks and becomes the base for the brim and the amount of block that is exposed determines crown height. What I don't know is whether or not the #51 block is oval or round or comes in both. From what I can tell from photos, it looks like it's round.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I'm only interested (at this time) in western hats. One setup I've seen is a basic open crown block that's 8 inches tall and sits down inside of a cutout on a piece of plywood. The plywood sits on built up blocks and becomes the base for the brim and the amount of block that is exposed determines crown height. What I don't know is whether or not the #51 block is oval or round or comes in both. From what I can tell from photos, it looks like it's round.

It sounds as if you think the block profile/model is connected to its degree of ovalness which it is not. The #51, like most blocks, can be had in various degrees of ovalness. None that I’ve seen are round as human heads are not round. Even “round oval” blocks are oval. You can order the #51 in standard oval or long oval fairly easily, but the other “ovals” are specialty items. An 8” tall block is huge, but might be doable as all you are changing is the length.

Take a look at this:


https://hatterssupplyhouse.com/crown-block-51/


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[Hat and Rehat]

There are round blocks. I have one, bought on the Bay, from Canada. I was disappointed when it arrived, but reviewed the ad and decided I should have looked at the pictures in more detail, so didn't try to return it.
Ermatinger talks about round blocks for making and reblocking hats for Indians. Apparently the indigenous people of the western hemisphere have rounder skulls. Makes an LO guy wonder, eh?

 

[Hat and Rehat]

The plywood set-up you described, if you also iron the underbrim while the bock and hat are in it, will give you the zero or flat flange we talked about earlier. I mentioned curling the outer edge of the brim to give it more strength, but you can also manipulate the brim break by hand, with steam, to roll the brim or bow it.
Standard blocks usually come in three oval choices; round, regular oval, or long oval. I have seen hats labeled extra-long oval, so apparenty they also make blocks for it.
How round or squared off the top of the block is will determine the way different creases turn out. The #51 is more rounded than the #52, the two most common open crown blocks for Westerns and Fedoras.
You're asking the right questions.

 

[thundurchasur]

The #51, like most blocks, can be had in various degrees of ovalness.

Thanks! That's exactly the information I was looking for. I had just checked out that block yesterday that you linked. Enjoy your weekend.

 

[thundurchasur]

The #51 is more rounded than the #52, the two most common open crown blocks for Westerns and Fedoras.
You're asking the right questions.

The #51 and #52 blocks are the ones I've been looking at. Is the #52 block more of a derby/bowler block or is that something completely different?

If I could find a single block of wood, I'd make my own. I don't want to have to glue and clamp a bunch of pieces together.

 

[Bamaboots]

#52 blocks

The 52 is a straight sided block with a slightly rounded dome. 52's are one of the most popular styles around here for everything from dress fedora's to westerns. Some fine examples of 52 blocking can be found in the WHAYWT thread and the WA? thread in some 3 x 6 western dress examples.

 

[Frunobulax]

The #51 and #52 blocks are the ones I've been looking at. Is the #52 block more of a derby/bowler block or is that something completely different?

If I could find a single block of wood, I'd make my own. I don't want to have to glue and clamp a bunch of pieces together.

Both the #51 and the #52 are straight-sided blocks with minimal taper. Not for a bowler, they give us those nice, straight profiles most of us like in our 40s-50s fedoras. Think Whippets, Open Roads, that sort of thing. The #51 has a more rounded top, the #52, flatter.

 

[Hat and Rehat]

Hatter's Supply sells both profiles, so you can compare them there.
There doesn't seem to be any database that shows creased crowns and identifies the block used (I've looked for one with no luck), but pushing the crease out of a few hats will start to give you the feel of what block will help get to that result. You might have to use some steam and something round to work out the old crease. I used to use a plastic, kid's toy bowling ball before I started buying and making blocks. When you've opened crowns several times, you'll get a feel for it. Only steam the outside, or you will learn the hard way about steam and leather sweatbands.
The #51 and #52 have straight sides until they curve into the top, but have some fore, aft taper. I understand the plastic hatshaper blocks are perpendicular on all sides.

 

[thundurchasur]

Great information and thanks! I've been reshaping my hats since the 1970's but only as needed and I could use a lot of practice before I try making my own from a hat body. I'm trying to lay hands on some nicer fur felt hats cheaply for practicing on. Maybe we could come up with a database of sorts if some of the loungers would share the details of tools used when sharing their work. Enjoy your weekend.

EDIT: I looked at the plastic hat shapers but they only come in general sizes S-M-L-XL.

Hatter's Supply sells both profiles, so you can compare them there.
There doesn't seem to be any database that shows creased crowns and identifies the block used (I've looked for one with no luck), but pushing the crease out of a few hats will start to give you the feel of what block will help get to that result. You might have to use some steam and something round to work out the old crease. I used to use a plastic, kid's toy bowling ball before I started buying and making blocks. When you've opened crowns several times, you'll get a feel for it. Only steam the outside, or you will learn the hard way about steam and leather sweatbands.
The #51 and #52 have straight sides until they curve into the top, but have some fore, aft taper. I understand the plastic hatshaper blocks are perpendicular on all sides.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

The plywood set-up you described, if you also iron the underbrim while the bock and hat are in it, will give you the zero or flat flange we talked about earlier. I mentioned curling the outer edge of the brim to give it more strength, but you can also manipulate the brim break by hand, with steam, to roll the brim or bow it.
Standard blocks usually come in three oval choices; round, regular oval, or long oval. I have seen hats labeled extra-long oval, so apparenty they also make blocks for it.
How round or squared off the top of the block is will determine the way different creases turn out. The #51 is more rounded than the #52, the two most common open crown blocks for Westerns and Fedoras.
You're asking the right questions.

I’m sure there are round blocks out there, but I can’t find any block maker who currently makes round (not round oval, wide oval, etc.) blocks. To say that blocks usually come in three oval choices that include “round” is news to me.


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[thundurchasur]

I’m sure there are round blocks out there, but I can’t find any block maker who currently makes round (not round oval, wide oval, etc.) blocks. To say that blocks usually come in three oval choices that include “round” is news to me.

Round blocks was just my own presumption. I've now been formerly edjumacated.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Round blocks was just my own presumption. I've now been formerly edjumacated.

The #52 is probably the most revered block shape here for a vintage fedora or western hats. It’s not right for every look or for every desired crease, but many love the tall straight-sided hats it produces.

#52:

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[thundurchasur]

That's a good lookin' hat. I can see something like that in my future.

The #52 is probably the most revered block shape here for a vintage fedora or western hats. It’s not right for every look or for every desired crease, but many love the tall straight-sided hats it produces.

#52:

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[jlee562]

#52 blocked Stetson nutria ca. 1935.

 

[Hat and Rehat]

I’m sure there are round blocks out there, but I can’t find any block maker who currently makes round (not round oval, wide oval, etc.) blocks. To say that blocks usually come in three oval choices that include “round” is news to me.


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I wasn't saying that about modern production (or reproduction). After buying the first one I've been pretty careful bidding on eBay blocks. There are actually more vintage ones that are round than I expected. I'm not sure what hat company in Canada was mined for blocks, but many of the blocks I see in very good condition are coming through our Northern border.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I wasn't saying that about modern production (or reproduction). After buying the first one I've been pretty careful bidding on eBay blocks. There are actually more vintage ones that are round than I expected. I'm not sure what hat company in Canada was mined for blocks, but many of the blocks I see in very good condition are coming through our Northern border.

On vintage hats I’ve seen long oval, extra long oval, wide oval, but I’ve yet to see a perfect circle or round. I don’t doubt that you’ve seen them, but I don’t think they are common.


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[Rmccamey]

You might ask a few questions on this thread. Rockwater blocks are beautiful, priced right, will last forever, and built to your specifications...even round, I suspect, if that is what you want!

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/rockwaters-blocks.97917/

 

[thundurchasur]

You might ask a few questions on this thread. Rockwater blocks are beautiful, priced right, will last forever, and built to your specifications...even round, I suspect, if that is what you want!

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/rockwaters-blocks.97917/

I messaged him about prices. I've seen photos of his work and they are nice.