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Carlos840

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I'm trying to find something similar. The width of yours is 45. How much is the slope?

View attachment 304644


Sorry but i really don't have a way to measure accurately.

BUT, looking at them, it looks to me like the angle is 90degrees + 45 degrees, so it should be 135 degrees more or less a couple degrees.

Does that sound possible? What are you comparing them to?

VbyRxKc.png
 

tmitchell59

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Keep in mind that back then the measurement was made from the top of the collar down to the hem. So a 25.5 inch back length is probably closer to 23.5 inches. Now we usually measure from the collar seam down- without the collar.

These Half-belts are late 1930s

This is the Iconic Sears Hercules made my Monarch size-38


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Goatskin, probably Block Bilt late 30s-size 44

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Sears Top Line Goatskin c.late 1930s-size 44

DSC00914.JPG
DSC00915.JPG
 

Marc mndt

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Sorry but i really don't have a way to measure accurately.

BUT, looking at them, it looks to me like the angle is 90degrees + 45 degrees, so it should be 135 degrees more or less a couple degrees.

Does that sound possible? What are you comparing them to?

VbyRxKc.png

upload_2021-1-27_18-22-20.png


Looks like 125 degrees.

If the angle is too small like with whis Boss hanger, a diagonal crease will be formed. Looks like your hanger has the perfect angle.
9A471F75-B9BC-4167-ACE9-827FE5EA4C75.jpeg
 

Pandemic

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I don’t think CXL is the “gold standard” as much as Aero’s choice (for many reasons) and therefore we see a lot of it. There are many beautiful leathers tanned all over the world.

Oh no arguments that there are better leathers out there. But CXL is so ubiquitous now that it remains the baseline that most people use to compare quality. It's the gold standard we measure against.
 
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I feel that (at least here on the forum) it’s akin to saying Redwings are the “Gold Standard” for boots. Just because we seem to be inundated by it doesn’t mean it deserves the title. We have great in-depth discussions about the nuances of all the leathers, makers, and designs we find...that’s what this place is about. :)
 

Pandemic

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I feel that (at least here on the forum) it’s akin to saying Redwings are the “Gold Standard” for boots. Just because we seem to be inundated by it doesn’t mean it deserves the title. We have great in-depth discussions about the nuances of all the leathers, maker, and designs we find...that’s what this place is about. :)

Yep, absolutely! Redwing would be the gold standard for boots. Certainly doesn't mean they are the best (far from it), just that their ubiquity makes them the common baseline that we measure things by.
 

Marc mndt

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Oh no arguments that there are better leathers out there. But CXL is so ubiquitous now that it remains the baseline that most people use to compare quality. It's the gold standard we measure against.
For me CXL is just one of the many ways leather can be processed. I can't say whether its better or worse in terms of quality as compared to other tanning processes.
Personally, I like vegetable tanned leather better. But that doesn't make vegetable tanned leather better than CXL.
 

Seb Lucas

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Australia
Keep in mind that back then the measurement was made from the top of the collar down to the hem. So a 25.5 inch back length is probably closer to 23.5 inches. Now we usually measure from the collar seam down- without the collar.
Pants were higher rise back then too, so your height and clothing preferences really play a big part too.
I am 5’10 and my sweet spot is 24.5 inches or so. 23.5” is too short, and 25.5 covers the top of my back pockets. To me visually, I like length to hit the seam point of jeans right above the pockets:
View attachment 304625
Some of the European ones were made to fit at waist, so they were even shorter, coming in closer to 21.5 inches. The American ones would look longer in comparison to those.

Interesting. I'm six two, I tend to wear a back length that is 26.5 inches, which is only an inch longer than yours at five ten. This falls just over the back pockets of my mid rise jeans. I wouldn't want anything shorter than this.
 

Seb Lucas

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dudewuttheheck

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Oh no arguments that there are better leathers out there. But CXL is so ubiquitous now that it remains the baseline that most people use to compare quality. It's the gold standard we measure against.

I feel that (at least here on the forum) it’s akin to saying Redwings are the “Gold Standard” for boots. Just because we seem to be inundated by it doesn’t mean it deserves the title. We have great in-depth discussions about the nuances of all the leathers, makers, and designs we find...that’s what this place is about. :)

I would say baseline or standard would be better than "gold standard." Red Wing especially does not deserve that moniker at all and I don't think that CXL does by any means either. Do I agree CXL is the modern baseline/standard leather that we measure against? Well, if there is one, CXL is it.
 

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